Neurobiological degeneracy and affordance perception support functional intra-individual variability of inter-limb coordination during ice climbing

This study investigated the functional intra-individual movement variability of ice climbers differing in skill level to understand how icefall properties were used by participants as affordances to adapt inter-limb coordination patterns during performance. Seven expert climbers and seven beginners were observed as they climbed a 30 m icefall. Movement and positioning of the left and right hand ice tools, crampons and the climber's pelvis over the first 20 m of the climb were recorded and digitized using video footage from a camera (25 Hz) located perpendicular to the plane of the icefall. Inter-limb coordination, frequency and types of action and vertical axis pelvis displacement exhibited by each climber were analysed for the first five minutes of ascent. Participant perception of climbing affordances was assessed through: (i) calculating the ratio between exploratory movements and performed actions, and (ii), identifying, by self-confrontation interviews, the perceptual variables of environmental properties, which were significant to climbers for their actions. Data revealed that experts used a wider range of upper and lower limb coordination patterns, resulting in the emergence of different types of action and fewer exploratory movements, suggesting that effective holes in the icefall provided affordances to regulate performance. In contrast, beginners displayed lower levels of functional intra-individual variability of motor organization, due to repetitive swinging of ice tools and kicking of crampons to achieve and maintain a deep anchorage, suggesting lack of perceptual attunement and calibration to environmental properties to support climbing performanc

Use of Inertial Central to Analyse Skill of Inter-Limb Coordination in Sport Activities

Kinematical movement analysis is regularly conducted through 3D video device, studying great number of parameters. The aim of this study is to focus on movement variability, following dynamical system perspectives, that is suitable through the use of inertial central to collect data in ecological context. This study gives two examples of sport activity (breaststroke swimming and rock climbing) for which the motor skill was analysed through a macroscopic parameter, notably upper-lower limb coordination. The results showed higher intraindividual movement variability in experts while beginners used basic modes of coordination

Use of Inertial Central to Analyse Skill of Inter-Limb Coordination in Sport Activities

Kinematical movement analysis is regularly conducted through 3D video device, studying great number of parameters. The aim of this study is to focus on movement variability, following dynamical system perspectives, that is suitable through the use of inertial central to collect data in ecological context. This study gives two examples of sport activity (breaststroke swimming and rock climbing) for which the motor skill was analysed through a macroscopic parameter, notably upper-lower limb coordination. The results showed higher intraindividual movement variability in experts while beginners used basic modes of coordination

Illustration of perceptions, actions and intentions of expert climbers.

<p>Illustration of perceptions, actions and intentions of expert climbers.</p

Angle between horizontal, left limb and right limb (left panel). Modes of limbs coordination as regards the angle value between horizontal, left limb and right limb (right panel).

<p>Angle between horizontal, left limb and right limb (left panel). Modes of limbs coordination as regards the angle value between horizontal, left limb and right limb (right panel).</p

Lower limb coordination: Time spent (in % of the climbing duration) with the crampons in different angular positions; left panel: expert climbers, right panel: beginners; *: significant differences with beginners at <i>p</i><0.05.

<p>Lower limb coordination: Time spent (in % of the climbing duration) with the crampons in different angular positions; left panel: expert climbers, right panel: beginners; *: significant differences with beginners at <i>p</i><0.05.</p

Example of angle-time curve for ice tools and crampons angle of two beginners showing numerous plateaus (5a: Participant 1 on top panel; 5b: Participant 2 on low panel).

<p>Example of angle-time curve for ice tools and crampons angle of two beginners showing numerous plateaus (5a: Participant 1 on top panel; 5b: Participant 2 on low panel).</p

Example of angle-time curve for ice tools and crampons angle of two expert climbers showing high variability in the upper limb and lower limb coordination (6a: Participant 3 on top panel; 6b: Participant 4 on low panel).

<p>Example of angle-time curve for ice tools and crampons angle of two expert climbers showing high variability in the upper limb and lower limb coordination (6a: Participant 3 on top panel; 6b: Participant 4 on low panel).</p

Upper limb coordination: Time spent (in % of the climbing duration) with the ice tools in different angular positions; left panel: expert climbers, right panel: beginners; *: significant differences with beginners at <i>p</i><0.05.

<p>Upper limb coordination: Time spent (in % of the climbing duration) with the ice tools in different angular positions; left panel: expert climbers, right panel: beginners; *: significant differences with beginners at <i>p</i><0.05.</p