Rip current dynamics on an embayed beach

Rip currents are fast, narrow currents which traverse the surf-zone in the seaward direction. The most important effect of rip currents is that they can pose a deadly hazard to beach-users. Rip currents and their interaction with waves and underwater morphology are still poorly understood. This is often attributed to a lack of high quality long-term datasets. This shortcoming is due to the difficulty of sampling in the turbulent surf-zone. Past attempts to compare rip current behaviour (e.g. alongshore spacing) to waves have failed to show that they interact. In this thesis, an improved technique of locating rip channels in video imagery is presented. Previous studies to create computer algorithms to locate rips in video imagery have only looked at one alongshore transect which is averaged in the cross-shore direction, and there have been issues making the algorithms work in complicated cases. The method created in this thesis uses computer algorithms to locate light intensity minima across the entire expanse of the surf-zone in video imagery. This was applied to a dataset from Tairua Beach. The light intensity minima are sorted into distinct rip channels to create a dataset spanning 3.3 years from 1999 until April 2002. Using the high quality rip data output from the algorithms, rip channel morphological reconfiguration events were defined using a measure of change. Wave climate was compared to the timing of these reconfiguration events. It was found that mean wave energy averaged over ten days and wave event duration showed a better relationship to the reconfiguration events than immediate, instantaneous measures of significant wave height. Rip channel spatial scale (i.e. cross-shore extent) was found to be critical in determining how rip channels behave during high wave events. At Tairua Beach, it was not uncommon for the surf-zone to be wide on one half of the beach and narrow on the other. This 'dual' surf-zone can be attributed to wave shadowing by offshore islands under certain wave directions. Smaller rip channels on the narrow half of the beach changed rapidly whereas larger rips were stable during the same period. This situation shows the importance of both hydrodynamic-control and topographic-control of rips, where rips may respond directly to changes in the wave conditions or be stabilised by the pre-existing morphology respectively. There was also a tendency for rips to form and persist at the headlands of the beach. A conceptual model was created to demonstrate how rip channels of different spatial scales respond to changes in the wave conditions. Small rips relative to the wave energy are more likely than larger rips to evolve, and vice versa

A Comparison of Beach Nourishment Methodology and Performance at Two Fringing Reef Beaches in Waikiki (Hawaii, USA) and Cadiz (SW Spain)

Fringing reefs have significant impacts on beach dynamics, yet there is little research on how they should be considered in beach nourishment design, monitoring, and conservation works. Thus, the behavior and characteristics of nourishment projects at two reef protected beaches, Royal Hawaiian Beach (RHB) in Hawaii, USA, and Victoria Beach (VB) in Cadiz, Spain, are compared to provide transferable information for future nourishment projects and monitoring in fringing reef environments. The nourishment cost at RHB was nine times higher than VB. This is partly due to lower total volume and a more complex placement and spreading method at RHB, despite the much closer borrow site at RHB. There was a significant difference in post-nourishment monitoring frequency and assessment of accuracy. RHB elevation was monitored quarterly for 2.7 years at 30 m-spaced profiles, compared to 5 years of biannual surveys of 50 m-spacing at VB. An additional problem related to the presence of reefs at both RHB and VB was estimating the beach volume increase after nourishment, due to variable definitions of the 'beach' area and high alongshore variability in reef topography. At sites where non-native sediment is used, it is imperative to understand how wave and current energy changes due to reefs will influence nourishment longevity. Thus, differences in erosion and accretion mechanisms at both beaches have been detected, though are still little understood. Moreover, discrepancies in sediment porosity between the two sites (which should be surveyed in future nourishments) have been found, probably due to differences in the nourishment sand transportation and distribution methods. In summary, more dialogue is needed to explicitly consider the influence of fringing reefs on coastal processes and beach nourishment projects

The influence of reef topography on storm-driven sand flux

Natural formations of rock and coral can support geologically controlled beaches, where the beach dynamics are significantly influenced by these structures. However, little is known about how alongshore variations in geological controls influence beach morphodynamics. Therefore, in this study we focus on the storm response of a beach (Yanchep in south Western Australia) that has strong alongshore variation in the level of geological control because of the heterogeneous calcarenite limestone reef. We used a modified version of XBeach to simulate the beach morphodynamics during a significant winter storm event. We find that the longshore variation in topography of the reef resulted in: (1) strong spatial difference in current distribution, including areas with strong currents jets; and (2) significant alongshore differences in sand flux, with larger fluxes in areas strongly geologically controlled by reefs. In particular, this resulted in enhanced beach erosion at the boundary of the reef where strong currents jet-exited the nearshore

An improved database of coastal flooding in the United Kingdom from 1915 to 2016

Coastal flooding caused by extreme sea levels can produce devastating and wide-ranging consequences. The ‘SurgeWatch’ v1.0 database systematically documents and assesses the consequences of historical coastal flood events around the UK. The original database was inevitably biased due to the inconsistent spatial and temporal coverage of sea-level observations utilised. Therefore, we present an improved version integrating a variety of ‘soft’ data such as journal papers, newspapers, weather reports, and social media. SurgeWatch2.0 identifies 329 coastal flooding events from 1915 to 2016, a more than fivefold increase compared to the 59 events in v1.0. Moreover, each flood event is now ranked using a multi-level categorisation based on inundation, transport disruption, costs, and fatalities: from 1 (Nuisance) to 6 (Disaster). For the 53 most severe events ranked Category 3 and above, an accompanying event description based upon the Source-Pathway-Receptor-Consequence framework was produced. Thus, SurgeWatch v2.0 provides the most comprehensive and coherent historical record of UK coastal flooding. It is designed to be a resource for research, planning, management and education

Components and tidal modulation of the wave field in a semi-enclosed shallow bay

The wave fields of coastal bays are comprised of waves generated by far-off storms that enter the bay to combine with waves generated locally by winds inside the bay and regionally outside the bay. In any given location, the resultant wave field varies spatially and temporally, and affects coastal features, such as beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs). However, wave fields in enclosed bays with tidal shoals are poorly studied, limiting the efficacy of coastal protection and restoration projects in these systems, a critical focus in light of ongoing sea level rise. Here we present observations of the wave field in Tomales Bay, a 20-km-long, narrow, semi-enclosed embayment on the wave-dominated coast of Northern California (USA) with a spring-tide range of 2.5 m. We deployed pressure sensors near several beaches along the linear axis of the bay. Low-frequency waves (4∗10−2−2.5∗10−1 Hz or 4–25-s period) were not observed further than 4 km of the mouth, delineating the “outer bay” region, where remotely generated swell and regionally generated wind waves could dominate. The wave spectrum of the landward “inner bay” was dominated by fetch-limited waves generated within the bay with frequency ≥2.5∗10−1Hz. The energy of both ocean waves and locally generated wind waves across all sites were controlled by the tide, but the former by changes in attenuation and the latter likely by modulation of wave generation. Wave energies were low at low tide and high at high tide, but high-frequency wind wave energy was increased during ebb tides while lower-frequency swell energy was reduced during ebb tides, suggesting different mechanisms of tidal influences. Thus, in addition to fluctuations in winds and the presence of ocean waves, tides exert a strong control on the wave energy spectra at coastal features in mesotidal regions. In general, events that may be impactful for BEB morphology are expected to occur when waves due to high winds or high-swell event arrive during high-tide periods. However, no such events were observed during our study and questions remain as to how rarely such events occur across the bay

A user-friendly database of coastal flooding in the United Kingdom from 1915–2014

Coastal flooding caused by extreme sea levels can be devastating, with long-lasting and diverse consequences. Historically, the UK has suffered major flooding events, and at present 2.5 million properties and £150 billion of assets are potentially exposed to coastal flooding. However, no formal system is in place to catalogue which storms and high sea level events progress to coastal flooding. Furthermore, information on the extent of flooding and associated damages is not systematically documented nationwide. Here we present a database and online tool called ‘SurgeWatch’, which provides a systematic UK-wide record of high sea level and coastal flood events over the last 100 years (1915-2014). Using records from the National Tide Gauge Network, with a dataset of exceedance probabilities and meteorological fields, SurgeWatch captures information of 96 storms during this period, the highest sea levels they produced, and the occurrence and severity of coastal flooding. The data are presented to be easily assessable and understandable to a range of users including, scientists, coastal engineers, managers and planners and concerned citizens

Morphological evolution of creek networks in 10 restored coastal wetlands in the UK

Coastal wetlands provide crucial ecosystem services including flood protection and carbon storage, but are being lost rapidly worldwide to the combined effects of sea-level rise, erosion and coastal urbanisation. Managed Realignment (MR) aims to mitigate for these losses by restoring reclaimed land to tidal influence. Data of creek evolution is critical to assess the performance of design strategies and improve design and implementation practices. This data descriptor provides a dataset of the horizontal morphological evolution of creek systems from various initial conditions in 10 MR schemes across the UK. Using a semi-automated workflow, morphological creek parameters were extracted from 52 lidar datasets at 1 m horizontal resolution spanning 2 to 20 years post-breach. This constitutes the most comprehensive systematic monitoring of MR creek morphology to date. The dataset will assist future MR design and provide baseline morphological information for ecological and biogeochemical surveying

Beachgoers' ability to identify rip currents at a beach in situ

Rip currents (“rips”) are the leading cause of drowning on surf beaches worldwide. A major contributing factor is that many beachgoers are unable to identify rip currents. Previous research has attempted to quantify beachgoers' rip identification ability using photographs of rip currents without identifying whether this usefully translates into an ability to identify a rip current in situ at the beach. This study is the first to compare beachgoers ability to identify rip currents in photographs and in situ at a beach in New Zealand (Muriwai Beach) where a channel rip current was present. Only 22 % of respondents were able to identify the in situ rip current. The highest rates of success were for males (33 %), New Zealand residents (25 %), and local beach users (29 %). Of all respondents who were successful at identifying the rip current in situ, 62 % were active surfers/bodyboarders, and 28 % were active beach swimmers. Of the respondents who were able to identify a rip current in two photographs, only 34 % were able to translate this into a successful in situ rip identification, which suggests that the ability to identify rip currents by beachgoers is worse than reported by previous studies involving photographs. This study highlights the difficulty of successfully identifying a rip current in reality and that photographs are not necessarily a useful means of teaching individuals to identify rip currents. It advocates for the use of more immersive and realistic education strategies, such as the use of virtual reality headsets showing moving imagery (videos) of rip currents in order to improve rip identification ability

Shifting perspectives on coastal impacts and adaptation

The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change reports reflect evolving attitudes in adapting to sea-level rise by taking a systems approach and recognizing that multiple responses exist to achieve a less hazardous coast.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio