TXD. From Traceability to Experience Design in Fashion Accessories Production

The research illustrates how the case studies related to the theme of "logistics in fashion manufacturing" could be targeted to emphasize the user interaction with the product system. Radio-waves technologies as RFID and NFC represent a crucial key topic in fashion supply-chain traceability. Emerging technologies as photonics could represents a new step in production authenticity identification working in between advanced manufacturing processes and user experience. So advanced machines and instruments could incorporate by themselves an identification system. So, the user interaction could represent a new step of product authenticity certification. The research path focuses on product interaction according with the innovation processes fashion accessories, taking into account possible extension of supply chain innovation to the product and related user experience. This strategy focuses on the state of the art of advanced technologies already present in this manufacturing sector (i.e. laser, CNC machinery), relying on the ability of SMEs to technology transfer and cross fertilization flexibility. Laser cutting process could be implemented by photonics, so the photon beam could define a high-precision engraving on materials as metal components for fashion accessories (from micro to nano-engraving). The project uses the technologies of optical diffraction as implementation of the artifact. From photon engraving we can create optics with miniature incisions that allow light to pass through a type of hologram numerical control structures in which complex visualization have been engraved in small thin slabs. This process is therefore based on a structure in low relief with a depth of about one micro-meter, more or less the same wavelength of light. This structure is producing an effect of micro-knurling. Through an external light source, working in refraction of a knurled surface with diffractive optics, the user can project an image on an adjacent surface that illustrates or emphasizes contents related to the product. The process of diffractive surfaces “printing” could be provided by machines and technologies already involved in the supply chain. The research is aiming at optimizing these tools through photonics technologies. The user, by an external light source as a laser light, can create a projection by the accessory understanding tangible and intangible values related to the manufacturing steps, places and people involved in the production of the artefact. In addition, by checking the projection, the user is the final controller of product authenticity, against fake and not legal imitations

Digital Archive as a Creative Booster.Connecting Design Processes to Logistics and PLM Platforms

The research is based on different projects carried out by Sciences for Made in Italy laboratory and REI Design lab (reverse engineering and interaction design) at the University of Florence, in contact with the high-end manufacturing system of Tuscany (Italy). This relation aims at developing design innovation processes in manufacturing, particularly in fashion and high-end production. The research shows how logistics innovation in supply chain processes involving digital archives of semi-finished products, traceability systems and time to market optimization, may represent a real booster for design culture and trans-disciplinary design actions. The research concerns about collaborations in between University of Florence/REI lab and SMEs, in particular Unomaglia spa leading manufacturer of clothing in jersey fabrics. The company stands as a leader supplier for important Italian and French fashion brands. The research set a digital archive of the manufactured items of clothing based on categories of dress shapes, materials and applied decorations. Digital archiving of items of clothing starts with a photoshooting in a professional photography set, developing 3 several shoots of the item in three different positions. Digital storage system allows to keep under control all the production composition elements, all the different materials and decorations incorporated on the artifact (i.e. embroidery) or applied (i.e. patch systems). Managing these elements we can easily develop design variants, improve the B2B services and product development processes. The project aims at creating an archive system and logistics management of the supply that represent not only an timing improvement for the supply chain, but above all a way to 'suggest' through the archive items design inspirations and guidelines to designers – i.e. to make their variants on existing semi-finished products or having creative ideas from them. Above all, the research aims at structuring an advanced visualization platform of Product Lifecycle Management, making the artifact in its creative and productive path able to interact to different company departments

“Advanced craft” integrated with the saper fare; the role of intangible value, and the centrality of the artisan in highquality 21st century artisa

The authors discuss the trend toward consumption of artisanal products in developed economy markets, and query whether artisanal value lies in the “branding” of products as artisanal or in the “saper fare” or intrinsic traditional craftsmanship. Using some examples from Tuscany, we examine the added value of innovation in Global Value Chains (which coordinate disparate activities such as branding, design and making across geographies), in contrast to the elemental value of traditional, localized, and historic crafts practice. In this comparison we discuss the philosophical basis of “saper fare” (traditional Tuscan ways of knowing and doing); how craftsmanship imbues a product with intrinsic identity or “aura”; and the crucial role of “genius loci” (spirit of place) in understanding the craft artifact and process. We argue that GVC-enabled processes have relegated highlyskilled Tuscan artisans to subservient roles as suppliers of labor to global luxury designers and brand managers. Finally, the authors propose that “advanced craft” –comprising customizable and agile methods enabled through digital production techniques– can combine with the Italian saper fare to place skilled artisans at the center of the process of thought-in-action, empowering craftsmen and designers to share information as cocreators and designers. Advanced craft thus holds the promise of enhancing the Tuscan region (and Italy’s) share of value created.Los autores discuten la tendencia hacia el consumo de productos artesanales en los mercados de las economías desarrolladas y se preguntan si el valor artesanal radica en la “marca” de los productos artesanales o en el “saper fare” (saber hacer) como valor intrínseco de la artesanía tradicional. A partir de algunos ejemplos de la Toscana, se analiza el valor agregado de la innovación en las cadenas de valor globales (que conjugan actividades dispares como la marca, el diseño y la fabricación en distintas regiones), en contraste con el valor elemental de la práctica artesanal tradicional, localizada e histórica. En esta comparación se discute la base filosófica del “saber hacer”; cómo la artesanía impregna un producto con identidad intrínseca o “aura”; y el papel crucial del “genius loci” (espíritu del lugar) en la comprensión del producto artesanal y su proceso. Se argumenta que los procesos habilitados para GVC (cadenas de valor globales) han relegado a artesanos toscanos altamente calificados a ser proveedores de mano de obra de los diseñadores de lujo globales y de los gerentes de marca. Por último, los autores sostienen que “la artesanía de avanzada” –que comprende métodos ágiles y adaptables que permiten las técnicas de producción digital– se puede combinar con el “saper fare” italiano para colocar a los artesanos expertos en el centro del proceso estratégico, promoviendo que artesanos y diseñadores compartan información como co-creadores y diseñadores. Por lo tanto, este concepto de “artesanía de avanzada” promete mejorar la participación de la Toscana en la creación de valor de la región y de ItaliaOs autores discutem a tendência até o consumo de produtos artesanais nos mercados das economias desenvolvidas e se perguntam si o valor artesanal radica na marca dos produtos artesanais ou em o “saper fare” (saber fazer) como valor intrínseco do artesanato tradicional. A partir de exemplos da Toscana, se analisa o valor agregado da inova- ção nas cadeias de valor globais (que conjugam atividades dispares como a marca, o design e a fabricação em diferentes regiões), em contraste com o valor elementar da prática artesanal tradicional, localizada e histórica. Nesta comparação discute-se a base filosófica do saber fazer; como o artesanato impregna um produto com identidade intrínseca ou “aura” y o papel crucial do “genius loci” (espírito do lugar) na compreensão do produto artesanal e seu processo. Argumenta-se que os processos habilitados para GVC (cadeias de valor globais) relegaram a artesãos toscanos expertos no centro do processo estratégico, promovendo que artesãos e designers compartilhem informação como co-criadores e designers. Por tanto, este conceito de “artesanato de avançada” promete melhorar a participação da Toscana na criação de valor da região e de Itália

Digital archive for high-end craftsmanship processes. Comparing research paths in Italy and China

This article approaches the digitisation of the Intangible Heritage preserved by the traditional craft processes of SME manufacturing districts through a comparison of two case studies. Two distinct manufacturing areas – furniture and accessories in Tuscany (Italy) and Miao silverware in Guizhou Province (China) – are investigated in terms of their characteristics, structures and capacity to access technological innovation. The proposed analysis highlights on emerges a privileged role of the digital archive as a catalyst of creative and organisational processes. On the one hand, it favours the construction of an organised and transmissible memory that supports SMEs in their market competitiveness. On the other, it serves as a basis for developing user-experience processes aimed at dissemination and reintegration in the context of contemporary design

The Borexino Thermal Monitoring & Management System and simulations of the fluid-dynamics of the Borexino detector under asymmetrical, changing boundary conditions

A comprehensive monitoring system for the thermal environment inside the Borexino neutrino detector was developed and installed in order to reduce uncertainties in determining temperatures throughout the detector. A complementary thermal management system limits undesirable thermal couplings between the environment and Borexino's active sections. This strategy is bringing improved radioactive background conditions to the region of interest for the physics signal thanks to reduced fluid mixing induced in the liquid scintillator. Although fluid-dynamical equilibrium has not yet been fully reached, and thermal fine-tuning is possible, the system has proven extremely effective at stabilizing the detector's thermal conditions while offering precise insights into its mechanisms of internal thermal transport. Furthermore, a Computational Fluid-Dynamics analysis has been performed, based on the empirical measurements provided by the thermal monitoring system, and providing information into present and future thermal trends. A two-dimensional modeling approach was implemented in order to achieve a proper understanding of the thermal and fluid-dynamics in Borexino. It was optimized for different regions and periods of interest, focusing on the most critical effects that were identified as influencing background concentrations. Literature experimental case studies were reproduced to benchmark the method and settings, and a Borexino-specific benchmark was implemented in order to validate the modeling approach for thermal transport. Finally, fully-convective models were applied to understand general and specific fluid motions impacting the detector's Active Volume.Comment: arXiv admin note: substantial text overlap with arXiv:1705.09078, arXiv:1705.0965

Prefrontal reactivity to TMS perturbation as a toy model of mental health outcomes during the COVID-19 pandemic

Psychosocial hardships associated with the COVID-19 pandemic led many individuals to suffer adverse mental health consequences, however, others show no negative effects. We hypothesized that the electroencephalographic (EEG) response to transcranial magnetic stimulation (TMS) could serve as a toy-model of an individual's capacity to resist psychological stress, in this case linked to the COVID-19 pandemic. We analyzed data from 74 participants who underwent mental health monitoring and concurrent electroencephalography with transcranial magnetic stimulation of the left dorsolateral prefrontal cortex (L-DLPFC) and left inferior parietal lobule (L-IPL). Within the following 19 months, mental health was reassessed at three timepoints during lock-down confinement and different phases of de-escalation in Spain. Compared with participants who remained stable, those who experienced increased mental distress showed, months earlier, significantly larger late EEG responses locally after L-DLPFC stimulation (but not globally nor after L-IPL stimulation). This response, together with years of formal education, was significantly predictive of mental health status during the pandemic. These findings reveal that the effect of TMS perturbation offers a predictive toy model of psychosocial stress response, as exemplified by the COVID-19 pandemic

Long-interval intracortical inhibition in primary motor cortex related to working memory in middle-aged adults

Excitability of the primary motor cortex measured with TMS has been associated with cognitive dysfunctions in patient populations. However, only a few studies have explored this relationship in healthy adults, and even fewer have considered the role of biological sex. Ninety-seven healthy middle-aged adults (53 male) completed a TMS protocol and a neuropsychological assessment. Resting Motor Threshold (RMT) and Long-Interval Intracortical Inhibition (LICI) were assessed in the left motor cortex and related to attention, episodic memory, working memory, reasoning, and global cognition composite scores to evaluate the relationship between cortical excitability and cognitive functioning. In the whole sample, there was a significant association between LICI and cognition; specifically, higher motor inhibition was related to better working memory performance. When the sample was broken down by biological sex, LICI was only associated with working memory, reasoning, and global cognition in men. No associations were found between RMT and cognitive functions. Greater intracortical inhibition, measured by LICI, could be a possible marker of working memory in healthy middle-aged adults, and biological sex plays a critical role in this association