Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT).(CNPq) National Council for Scientific and Technological DevelopmentCoordenacao de Aperfeicoamento de Pessoal de Nivel Superior (CAPES)FAPES

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT)

Erratum: Global, regional, and national comparative risk assessment of 84 behavioural, environmental and occupational, and metabolic risks or clusters of risks for 195 countries and territories, 1990–2017: a systematic analysis for the Global Burden of Disease Study 2017

Interpretation: By quantifying levels and trends in exposures to risk factors and the resulting disease burden, this assessment offers insight into where past policy and programme efforts might have been successful and highlights current priorities for public health action. Decreases in behavioural, environmental, and occupational risks have largely offset the effects of population growth and ageing, in relation to trends in absolute burden. Conversely, the combination of increasing metabolic risks and population ageing will probably continue to drive the increasing trends in non-communicable diseases at the global level, which presents both a public health challenge and opportunity. We see considerable spatiotemporal heterogeneity in levels of risk exposure and risk-attributable burden. Although levels of development underlie some of this heterogeneity, O/E ratios show risks for which countries are overperforming or underperforming relative to their level of development. As such, these ratios provide a benchmarking tool to help to focus local decision making. Our findings reinforce the importance of both risk exposure monitoring and epidemiological research to assess causal connections between risks and health outcomes, and they highlight the usefulness of the GBD study in synthesising data to draw comprehensive and robust conclusions that help to inform good policy and strategic health planning

In vitro evaluation of the straightening effect by different chemical/thermal processes in the hair fiber.

A aparência dos cabelos é de fundamental importância na sociedade atual. Estando em moda, cabelos mais lisos e com menos volume, os consumidores que antes os alisavam com produtos químicos e força mecânica, passaram a utilizar um tratamento térmico, além do secador de cabelos: as piastras (\"chapinhas\") que atuam em valores de temperatura ao redor de 230°C. Esse procedimento ocasiona além dos danos mecânicos e químicos também dano térmico, tornando os cabelos ainda mais fragilizados. O escopo deste estudo foi avaliar o dano na fibra capilar, de amostras não tratadas e nas que receberam aplicação de alisantes/relaxantes tradicionais e alternativos. O estudo foi dividido em cinco capítulos que avaliam: aplicação dos alisantes/relaxantes com ingredientes ativos distintos; danos mecânicos, perda Protéica; análise térmica e microscopia eletrônica de varredura. As amostras de cabelo utilizadas em todos os estudos foram tratadas como descrito no primeiro capítulo. Foram aplicados produtos comerciais contendo os seguintes ingredientes ativos: Hidróxido de Sódio, Tioglicolato de Amônio, Hidróxido de Guanidina (reação de hidróxido de cálcio com carbonato de guanidina), formaldeído e ácido glioxílico isolado e em combinação com carbocisteína. O uso de formaldeído e ácido glioxilico em formulações de alisantes/relaxantes está proibido pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária. Todos os produtos aplicados alisaram os cabelos; os procedimentos que utilizaram a piastra tornaram os fios mais lisos. Os alisantes/relaxantes à base de ácido glioxilico e formaldeído reduziram de forma expressiva a tensão de ruptura dos cabelos tornando-os mais frágeis. A maior perda protéica foi observada na amostra tratada com carbocisteína (1,74 mg/g cabelo). Nos estudos de análise térmica, na fase de desidratação a amostra tratada com carbocisteína apresentou maior perda de massa (15,17%); na fase de denaturação da proteína, a tratada com hidróxido de sódio (51,06%); e na fase de eliminação do material carbonáceo, todas as amostras apresentaram perda de massa maior que a amostra não tratada; as menores temperaturas de pico foram as das amostras sem tratamento alisante (630°C) e ácido glioxílico (640°C). Observando-se as imagens de microscopia eletrônica nota-se modificação nas bordas das cutículas das amostras indicando que sofreram agressão; o hidróxido de guanidina deixou adicionalmente resíduo; as amostras tratadas com ácido glioxílico e formaldeído apresentaram a formação de filme superficial como um \"envelopamento\" da fibra. Os resultados sugerem que não há predominância de um procedimento mais danoso que os demais; porém os que utilizaram a piastra (alisamentos/relaxamento ácidos) acentuaram os danos.The appearance of the hair is of fundamental importance in today\'s society. Being in fashion, hair straight and with less volume, consumers that before straighted hair with chemicals products and mechanical strength began to use a heat treatment, in addition to hair dryers: the hot plates (\"chapinhas\") acting on temperature values around 230°C. This procedure causes not only mechanical and chemical damage but also thermal one, making the hair more fragile. The scope of this study was to evaluate the damage to the hair fiber, in untreated samples and these receiving straighteners/relaxers application of traditional and alternative products.The study was divided into five chapters that evaluated: application of straighteners/relaxers with different active ingredients; mechanical damage, protein loss; thermal analysis and scanning electron microscopy. The hair samples used in all studies were treated as described in the chapter one. Commercial products containing the following active ingredients were used: Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Guanidine Hydroxide (calcium hydroxide reaction with guanidine carbonate), Formaldehyde and Glyoxylic Acid alone and in combination with Carbocysteine. The use of Formaldehyde andGlyoxylicAcid in straightening/relaxing formulations are prohibited by the National Agency for Sanitary Vigilance. All applied products, straight the hair samples; the procedures that used the hot plates become the hair more straight. The straightening/relaxing based on Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde reduced significantly the hair break point making them more fragile. Most protein loss was observed in the sample treated with Carbocysteine (1.74mg/g hair).In the thermal analysis studies at the dewatering stage, Carbocystein treated samples showed greater weight loss(15.17%), at the protein denaturation stage this treated with Sodium Hydroxide (51.06%) and in the carbonaceous material elimination phase all samples showed mass loss greater than the untreated sample;. The lower peak temperatures were observed in the samples without treatment (630°C) and with Glyoxylic Acid (640°C). Observing the images of electron microscopy is noted the change in the cuticle aspect of the samples showing that the edges were damaged, Guanidine Hydroxide, left further residue: the samples treated with Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde showed the formation of surface film as an \"enveloping\" fiber. The results suggest that there is not a predominance of a more harmful treatment than other, but those using hot plates(straightening/relaxing acids) emphasize the damage

In vitro evaluation of the straightening effect by different chemical/thermal processes in the hair fiber.

A aparência dos cabelos é de fundamental importância na sociedade atual. Estando em moda, cabelos mais lisos e com menos volume, os consumidores que antes os alisavam com produtos químicos e força mecânica, passaram a utilizar um tratamento térmico, além do secador de cabelos: as piastras (\"chapinhas\") que atuam em valores de temperatura ao redor de 230°C. Esse procedimento ocasiona além dos danos mecânicos e químicos também dano térmico, tornando os cabelos ainda mais fragilizados. O escopo deste estudo foi avaliar o dano na fibra capilar, de amostras não tratadas e nas que receberam aplicação de alisantes/relaxantes tradicionais e alternativos. O estudo foi dividido em cinco capítulos que avaliam: aplicação dos alisantes/relaxantes com ingredientes ativos distintos; danos mecânicos, perda Protéica; análise térmica e microscopia eletrônica de varredura. As amostras de cabelo utilizadas em todos os estudos foram tratadas como descrito no primeiro capítulo. Foram aplicados produtos comerciais contendo os seguintes ingredientes ativos: Hidróxido de Sódio, Tioglicolato de Amônio, Hidróxido de Guanidina (reação de hidróxido de cálcio com carbonato de guanidina), formaldeído e ácido glioxílico isolado e em combinação com carbocisteína. O uso de formaldeído e ácido glioxilico em formulações de alisantes/relaxantes está proibido pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária. Todos os produtos aplicados alisaram os cabelos; os procedimentos que utilizaram a piastra tornaram os fios mais lisos. Os alisantes/relaxantes à base de ácido glioxilico e formaldeído reduziram de forma expressiva a tensão de ruptura dos cabelos tornando-os mais frágeis. A maior perda protéica foi observada na amostra tratada com carbocisteína (1,74 mg/g cabelo). Nos estudos de análise térmica, na fase de desidratação a amostra tratada com carbocisteína apresentou maior perda de massa (15,17%); na fase de denaturação da proteína, a tratada com hidróxido de sódio (51,06%); e na fase de eliminação do material carbonáceo, todas as amostras apresentaram perda de massa maior que a amostra não tratada; as menores temperaturas de pico foram as das amostras sem tratamento alisante (630°C) e ácido glioxílico (640°C). Observando-se as imagens de microscopia eletrônica nota-se modificação nas bordas das cutículas das amostras indicando que sofreram agressão; o hidróxido de guanidina deixou adicionalmente resíduo; as amostras tratadas com ácido glioxílico e formaldeído apresentaram a formação de filme superficial como um \"envelopamento\" da fibra. Os resultados sugerem que não há predominância de um procedimento mais danoso que os demais; porém os que utilizaram a piastra (alisamentos/relaxamento ácidos) acentuaram os danos.The appearance of the hair is of fundamental importance in today\'s society. Being in fashion, hair straight and with less volume, consumers that before straighted hair with chemicals products and mechanical strength began to use a heat treatment, in addition to hair dryers: the hot plates (\"chapinhas\") acting on temperature values around 230°C. This procedure causes not only mechanical and chemical damage but also thermal one, making the hair more fragile. The scope of this study was to evaluate the damage to the hair fiber, in untreated samples and these receiving straighteners/relaxers application of traditional and alternative products.The study was divided into five chapters that evaluated: application of straighteners/relaxers with different active ingredients; mechanical damage, protein loss; thermal analysis and scanning electron microscopy. The hair samples used in all studies were treated as described in the chapter one. Commercial products containing the following active ingredients were used: Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Guanidine Hydroxide (calcium hydroxide reaction with guanidine carbonate), Formaldehyde and Glyoxylic Acid alone and in combination with Carbocysteine. The use of Formaldehyde andGlyoxylicAcid in straightening/relaxing formulations are prohibited by the National Agency for Sanitary Vigilance. All applied products, straight the hair samples; the procedures that used the hot plates become the hair more straight. The straightening/relaxing based on Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde reduced significantly the hair break point making them more fragile. Most protein loss was observed in the sample treated with Carbocysteine (1.74mg/g hair).In the thermal analysis studies at the dewatering stage, Carbocystein treated samples showed greater weight loss(15.17%), at the protein denaturation stage this treated with Sodium Hydroxide (51.06%) and in the carbonaceous material elimination phase all samples showed mass loss greater than the untreated sample;. The lower peak temperatures were observed in the samples without treatment (630°C) and with Glyoxylic Acid (640°C). Observing the images of electron microscopy is noted the change in the cuticle aspect of the samples showing that the edges were damaged, Guanidine Hydroxide, left further residue: the samples treated with Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde showed the formation of surface film as an \"enveloping\" fiber. The results suggest that there is not a predominance of a more harmful treatment than other, but those using hot plates(straightening/relaxing acids) emphasize the damage

MLVA16 typing of Portuguese human and animal Brucella melitensis and Brucella abortus isolates.

To investigate the epidemiological relationship of isolates from different Portuguese geographical regions and to assess the diversity among isolates, the MLVA16(Orsay) assay (panels 1, 2A and 2B) was performed with a collection of 126 Brucella melitensis (46 human and 80 animal isolates) and 157 B. abortus field isolates, seven vaccine strains and the representative reference strains of each species. The MLVA16(Orsay) showed a similar high discriminatory power (HGDI 0.972 and 0.902) for both species but panel 1 and 2A markers displayed higher diversity (HGDI 0.693) in B. abortus compared to B. melitensis isolates (HGDI 0.342). The B. melitensis population belong to the "Americas" (17%) and "East Mediterranean" (83%) groups. No isolate belonged to the "West Mediterranean" group. Eighty-five percent of the human isolates (39 in 46) fit in the "East-Mediterranean" group where a single lineage known as MLVA11 genotype 116 is responsible for the vast majority of Brucella infections in humans. B. abortus isolates formed a consistent group with bv1 and bv3 isolates in different clusters. Four MLVA11 genotypes were observed for the first time in isolates from S. Jorge and Terceira islands from Azores. From the collection of isolates analysed in this study we conclude that MLVA16(Orsay) provided a clear view of Brucella spp. population, confirming epidemiological linkage in outbreak investigations. In particular, it suggests recent and ongoing colonisation of Portugal with one B. melitensis lineage usually associated with East Mediterranean countries

<i>Brucella</i> strains used in this work.

<p>A, Alentejo; ALG, Algarve; BI, Beira Interior; BL, Beira Litoral; EDM, Entre Douro e Minho; RO, Ribatejo e Oeste; TM, Trás-os-Montes; ATCC, American Type Culture Collection; CITA, Centro de Investigación y Tecnología Agro Alimentaria del Gobierno de Aragón; NA, Not Applicable.</p

Minimum Spanning Tree analysis of published <i>B. melitensis</i> isolates (excluding vaccine strains) using the MLVA11 data.

<p>Colour codes are associated with the main <i>B. melitensis</i> MLVA groups. The analysis was performed using all isolates from this study and typing data from more than one thousand isolates previously published <a href="http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0042514#pone.0042514-Alvarez1" target="_blank">[19]</a>–<a href="http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0042514#pone.0042514-Kili1" target="_blank">[22]</a>, Brucella2010 database hosted at <a href="http://mlva.u-psud.fr" target="_blank">http://mlva.u-psud.fr</a>]. Portuguese isolates are shown in yellow. The <i>B. melitensis</i> population is included in “American” (17%) and “East-Mediterranean” (83%) groups. Thirty nine human isolates (85%; 39 out of 46) are MLVA11 genotype 116 usually associated with the “East-Mediterranean” <i>B. melitensis</i> strains and seven isolates (15%) are included in the “American” group. The numbers represent the MLVA11 genotypes found in this study. The size of the shapes indicates the number of strains described in each genotype. Each of the circles showing yellow and dark blue or red colors included the Portuguese genotype (yellow) and the genotypes found in “East-Mediterranean” (dark blue) or “American” (red) <i>B. melitensis</i> isolates.</p

Cluster analysis for 170 <i>B. abortus</i> strains based on the data set of MLVA16_Orsay.

<p>In the columns, the following data for isolates are indicated: genotype numbering (No.), strain identification (ID), biovar (Bv.), year of isolation (Year), geographic region (Region), Panel1 and MLVA11 (Panels1+2A) genotypes corresponding to each isolate in the Brucella2010 database for each set of loci. The colour code reflects the Portuguese regions: Portugal mainland, yellow; Azores, light blue; S. Miguel, dark green; S. Jorge, orange; Terceira, green.A total of 40 genotypes were observed. <b>A</b>, Alentejo; <b>BI</b>, Beira Interior; <b>BL</b>, Beira Litoral; <b>EDM</b>, Entre Douro e Minho; <b>RO</b>, Ribatejo e Oeste; <b>TM</b>, Trás-os-Montes.</p