640 research outputs found

    Patch behaviour and predictability properties of modelled finite-amplitude sand ridges on the inner shelf

    Get PDF
    The long-term evolution of shoreface-connected sand ridges is investigated with a nonlinear spectral model which governs the dynamics of waves, currents, sediment transport and the bed level on the inner shelf. Wave variables are calculated with a shoaling-refraction model instead of using a parameterisation. The spectral model describes the time evolution of amplitudes of known eigenmodes of the linearised system. Bottom pattern formation occurs if the transverse bottom slope of the inner shelf, β, exceeds a critical value β<sub>c</sub>. For fixed model parameters the sensitivity of the properties of modelled sand ridges to changes in the number (<i>N</i>−1) of resolved subharmonics (of the initially fastest growing mode) is investigated. For any <i>N</i> the model shows the growth and subsequent saturation of the height of the sand ridges. The saturation time scale is several thousands of years, which suggests that observed sand ridges have not reached their saturated stage yet. The migration speed of the ridges and the average longshore spacing between successive crests in the saturated state differ from those in the initial state. Analysis of the potential energy balance of the ridges reveals that bed slope-induced sediment transport is crucial for the saturation process. In the transient stage the shoreface-connected ridges occur in patches. The overall characteristics of the bedforms (saturation time, final maximum height, average longshore spacing, migration speed) hardly vary with <i>N</i>. However, individual time series of modal amplitudes and bottom patterns strongly depend on <i>N</i>, thereby implying that the detailed evolution of sand ridges can only be predicted over a limited time interval. Additional experiments show that the critical bed slope β<sub>c</sub> increases with larger offshore angles of wave incidence, larger offshore wave heights and longer wave periods, and that the corresponding maximum height of the ridges decreases whilst the saturation time increases

    Пошук витоків народного календаря

    Get PDF
    Рецензія на монографію: Мойсей А.А. Магія і мантика у народному календарі східнороманського населення Буковини. – Чернівці, 2008. – 320 с.: 16 іл

    Patch behaviour and predictability propierties of modelled finite-amplitude sand ridges on the inner shelf

    Get PDF
    The long-term evolution of shoreface-connected sand ridges is investigated with a nonlinear spectral model which governs the dynamics of waves, currents, sediment transport and the bed level on the inner shelf. Wave variables are calculated with a shoaling-refraction model instead of using a parameterisation. The spectral model describes the time evolution of amplitudes of known eigenmodes of the linearised system. Bottom pattern formation occurs if the transverse bottom slope of the inner shelf, β, exceeds a critical value βc. For fixed model parameters the sensitivity of the properties of modelled sand ridges to changes in the number (N−1) of resolved subharmonics (of the initially fastest growing mode) is investigated. For any N the model shows the growth and subsequent saturation of the height of the sand ridges. The saturation time scale is several thousands of years, which suggests that observed sand ridges have not reached their saturated stage yet. The migration speed of the ridges and the average longshore spacing between successive crests in the saturated state differ from those in the initial state. Analysis of the potential energy balance of the ridges reveals that bed slope-induced sediment transport is crucial for the saturation process. In the transient stage the shoreface-connected ridges occur in patches. The overall characteristics of the bedforms (saturation time, final maximum height, average longshore spacing, migration speed) hardly vary with N. However, individual time series of modal amplitudes and bottom patterns strongly depend on N, thereby implying that the detailed evolution of sand ridges can only be predicted over a limited time interval. Additional experiments show that the critical bed slope βc increases with larger offshore angles of wave incidence, larger offshore wave heights and longer wave periods, and that the corresponding maximum height of the ridges decreases whilst the saturation time increases.Postprint (published version

    Long-term morphodynamics of a coupled shelf-shoreline system forced by waves and tides, a model approach

    Get PDF
    Sand ridges, with length scales of several km, are prominent features of the seafloor landscape of many sandy continental shelves. Knowledge about the extent to which these ridges influence the large-scale (i.e., decadal and kilometer scales) morphodynamic evolution of the adjacent shoreline and vice versa (shelf-shoreline morphodynamic coupling) is limited. The present work aims at quantifying this coupling by using a coupled nonlinear shelf-shoreline model forced by tides and different wave conditions. Model results show that the presence of sand ridges on the shelf creates longshore non-uniform wave patterns, which act as a forcing template for the morphodynamic development of the shoreline. The shelf-shoreline coupling primarily works one way, meaning that the morphodynamic evolution of the shelf affects the evolution of the shoreline. When wave propagation is predominantly aligned with the long axis of the shelf ridges, the forced shoreline undulations are so prominent, that they affect the shelf morphology (significant two-way coupling). Moreover, for those waves, the longshore spacing of the ridges is strongly imprinted on the shoreline morphology. Weaker shoreline undulations develop for waves that propagate more across the ridges and the weakest for time-varying wave conditions with large variability in their angles of propagation. Model results compare fairly well with observations. Physical mechanisms underlying the different morphodynamic responses of the coupled shelf-shoreline system to different wave conditions are also given.Postprint (author's final draft

    The role of surface rollers on the formation of surfzone transverse sand bars

    Get PDF
    A morphodynamic model has been developed to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of transverse finger sand bars. The model describes the feedback between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. The wave and bathymetric conditions measured at Egmond site are firstly applied and the modeled longshore current and wave height are compared with field data of that beach. Subsequently, the wave and bathymetric conditions measured at Noordwijk site are used to compare model results with the up-current oriented bars observed there. Realistic positive feedback leading to formation of the observed bars only occurs if the resuspension of sediment due to bore turbulence is included in the model. The modeled wavelength, crest orientation and growth rate agree with data but the model overestimates the migration rates.Peer ReviewedPostprint (published version

    Modeling and analyzing observed transverse sand bars in the surf zone

    Get PDF
    A morphodynamic model has been applied to explain the characteristics of transverse sandbars observed in the inner surf zone of open beaches. The model describes the feedback between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop.Postprint (published version

    Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth-averaged sediment concentration

    Get PDF
    This review highlights the important role of the depth-averaged sediment concentration (DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that have an alongshore rhythmic pattern: beach cusps, surf zone transverse and crescentic bars, and shoreface-connected sand ridges. We present a formulation and methodology, based on the knowledge of the DASC (which equals the sediment load divided by the water depth), that has been successfully used to understand the characteristics of these features. These sand bodies, relevant for coastal engineering and other disciplines, are located in different parts of the coastal zone and are characterized by different spatial and temporal scales, but the same technique can be used to understand them. Since the sand bodies occur in the presence of depth-averaged currents, the sediment transport approximately equals a sediment load times the current. Moreover, it is assumed that waves essentially mobilize the sediment, and the current increases this mobilization and advects the sediment. In such conditions, knowing the spatial distribution of the DASC and the depth-averaged currents induced by the forcing (waves, wind, and pressure gradients) over the patterns allows inferring the convergence/divergence of sediment transport. Deposition (erosion) occurs where the current flows from areas of high to low (low to high) values of DASC. The formulation and methodology are especially useful to understand the positive feedback mechanisms between flow and morphology leading to the formation of those morphological features, but the physical mechanisms for their migration, their finite-amplitude behavior and their decay can also be explored
    corecore