Mechanical characterization of the green coconut fiber for application in the footwear industry

In the tropical countries, the green coconut water consumption generates a great problem with the fruit \ud final destination. To minimize this problem, it is necessary to find applicability to the residues. In this \ud sense, this study had as its objective to investigate the characteristics of the green coconut fiber, from the \ud fruit disposed in the city of Francisco Morato – Sao Paulo, and to compare them to the characteristics from \ud other natural fibers, to check the viability of application of these fibers in the manufacturing of shoe parts. \ud It was made a biological maceration on the fibers and traction and microscopy tests were run. The results \ud showed that the green coconut fibers have potential related to other natural fibers studied in literature, to \ud be used as reinforcement in the manufacturing of shoe parts and other design product

USING A MORPHOLOGICAL CHART TO DEVELOP FASHION PRODUCTS FROM RECYCLED KNIT WASTE

This article aims to investigate and experiment environmentally sustainable solutions using cotton knit waste and hand knitting to develop new fashion products. The knit waste came from imperfect knit fabrics discarded by industries and circular knit garments discarded by consumers. The tool used as a creative mean of development was the morphological chart, which allowed approximately one hundred and fifty ideas of garments to be generated. Five ideas were identified as main product concept. A prototype of a vest was made to test the viability of the use of the morphological chart do develop a creative fashion product. The reproducibility of the methodology was successfully tested by handcraft artists that work with hand knitting.

Proposta de desenvolvimento de camisas esportivas para prática de goalball

The evolution of sports fashion in its multiple modalities is constantly growing in both the design and technology areas, where new materials and finishes are developed to add value and quality to the final product. The objective of this research is to propose adaptations to the men's sports shirts used by the Sesi Mogi das Cruzes paralympic goalball team. The target audience of this research are professional para-athletes, practitioners of sports activity, have some visual impairment and train every day. Informal interviews were carried out with para-athletes, health professionals and team coaches to understand what the main discomforts are caused by the current uniform. New uniforms were produced with the same modeling as the current uniform, but with a dry knit fabric, which aims to accelerate the speed of moisture transport from the body to the environment, keeping the shirt fabric dry. A field study was carried out with two volunteer para-athletes. On the first day para-athlete 1 wore the current uniform and para-athlete 2 the uniform proposed by this research and on the second day the para-athletes reversed the uniforms. To analyze the thermal comfort of the garments, photographs were taken with a thermographic camera, after the athletes had warmed up and after training with the ball. To analyze the other types of shirt comfort, interviews were conducted with the two para-athletes selected after warm-up and after training with the ball. The results showed that only replacing the knitted fabric with a dry knitted fabric was not enough to guarantee the thermal comfort of the proposed garment. To increase the comfort of the uniforms, it will be necessary to place a mesh fabric (small hole), to increase the ventilation of the clothing, in the regions where higher body temperature was detected. It was proposed the development of a prototype in seamless knitting, where there is the possibility of combining during the weaving of the piece areas of plain knit and areas with mesh.A evolução da moda esportiva em suas múltiplas modalidades está em constante crescimento tanto na área do design como na de tecnologia, onde são desenvolvidos novos materiais e acabamentos visando agregar valor e qualidade ao produto final. O objetivo desta pesquisa é propor adaptações nas camisas esportivas masculinas utilizadas pela equipe paraolímpica de goalball do SESI de Mogi das Cruzes. O público-alvo dessa pesquisa são paratletas profissionais, praticantes de atividade desportiva, possuem alguma deficiência visual e treinam todos os dias. Foram realizadas entrevistas com os paratletas, profissionais da saúde e treinadores da equipe para entender quais são os principais desconfortos causados pelo uniforme atual. Foram produzidos novos uniformes com a mesma modelagem do uniforme atual, mas com um tecido de malha dry, que tem como objetivo acelerar a velocidade de transporte de umidade do corpo para o meio ambiente, mantendo o tecido da camisa seco. Foi realizado um estudo de campo com dois paratletas voluntários. No primeiro dia o Paratleta 1 vestiu o uniforme atual e o paratleta 2 o uniforme proposto por esta pesquisa e no segundo dia os paratletas inverteram os uniformes. Para analisar o conforto térmico dos vestuários foram capturadas imagens, com uma câmera termográfica, após o aquecimento dos atletas e após o treino com bola. Para analisar os outros tipos de conforto das camisas foram feitas entrevistas com os dois paratletas selecionados após o aquecimento e após o treino com bola. Os resultados mostraram que somente a substituição do tecido não foi suficiente para garantir o conforto térmico do vestuário proposto. Para aumentar o conforto térmico dos uniformes será necessário inserir no tecido áreas com ventilação. Foi proposto o desenvolvimento de um protótipo em malharia seamless (sem costura lateral), combinado durante o processo de tecelagem das peças áreas de malha lisa e áreas com malha mesh (tecido furadinho)

USO DA MATRIZ MORFOLÓGICA PARA DESENVOLVIMENTO DE PRODUTOS DE MODA A PARTIR DE MATÉRIA-PRIMA RECILADA

O presente artigo tem como objetivo investigar e experimentar soluções ambientalmente sustentáveis, utilizando resíduos de malharia circular de algodão e o tricô, para a fabricação de novos produtos de moda. Como matérias-primas principais foram utilizados tecidos defeituosos descartados por empresas e peças descartadas por consumidores. A ferramenta usada para o desenvolvimento do processo criativo foi a matriz morfológica, com esta técnica foram geradas aproximadamente cento e cinquenta ideias de produtos de vestuário. Cinco ideias de concepção de produtos foram identificadas como principais. Foi confeccionado um protótipo de um colete curto com o objetivo de mostrar a viabilidade da aplicação da matriz morfológica para o desenvolvimento de produtos criativos em moda. A reprodutibilidade da metodologia proposta foi testada com sucesso por artesãos que trabalham com técnicas de tricô manual

Assessment and technological forecasting in the textile industry: From first industrial revolution to the Industry 4.0

Each Industrial Revolution played a key role in the production-consumption pattern of textile products. Given the complexity of the Textile and Apparel Industry, the production systems have varying degrees of conceptual and technological innovation. Thus, the objective of this research is to present a model that includes the projection of technological changes in the production and consumption of textiles from the contrast between the descriptions of patents, scientific articles, and trends and tools of the Industry 4.0. It was possible to infer that the components of the Textile and Apparel Industry are undergoing an evolutionary process, which includes the automation of machinery parts and processes. The technological tools that characterize the Industry 4.0 are not yet fully integrated into textile production, and the challenge for the textile industry is to keep up with these innovations that impact on production, on business models, on consumer habits, and on social aspects.Keywords: textile and apparel industry, Industry 4.0, assessment, forecasting

Assessment of coconut fibers for textile applications

Brazil is the fourth larger producer in coconut fruit in the world. However, the industry processes only asmall portion of coconut byproducts, which have caused serious environmental problems. The purpose of thisarticle is to test an alternative for the recovery of coconut byproduct. In a series of experiments, recoveredcoconut fibers (coir) were treated to be employ in textile application. After initial classification and sampling,the fine coconut fibers were subjected to a simultaneous scouring and pre-bleaching process in a mild alkalisolution together with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). The fibers were first subjected to this treatment for 10minutes at 80°C and then again for 20 minutes at the boiling point. The samples were then treated with a cationicsoftener for 10 minutes at 60°C. After this process, the physical and mechanical properties were measuredand values proved not to be statistically significant. The article indicates some of the main obstacleswhen handling coconut fiber for textile applications and reveals that besides elongation, softness and homogeneityare essential for coconut fibers spinning. Findings in this investigation showed some improved resultsin relation to the previous literature in two aspects: Firstly, because the treatment did not harm the fibersquality; secondly, because due to the treatment the coconut fibers could be arranged in fibrous strands, whichfacilitated spinning and weaving for use in textile applications.Keywords: coconut fiber, coir, scouring, softening, textile

Estudo comparativo do processo produtivo dos tênis convencionais de tecido e dos tênis de malha retilínea sem costura

Brazil is the fifth largest footwear producer in the world and the main producer outside the Asian region. This research aims to compare the production processes used in the production of traditional sneakers and sneakers with seamless rectilinear mesh uppers, in low complexity models (which require few operations in cutting and sewing the uppers). Through bibliographic, applied and qualitative research of an exploratory nature, this study compares the production flow, the time taken for the sneaker production, and the amount of textile solid waste generated by the respective processes. Although the experimental results of the case study are limited to two models of sneakers, produced by two different technologies, with one pair of sneakers of each model with its respective production process, the analyses indicated that in the production of the seamless knit upper sneakers, there is a reduction in production stages and in the amount of discarded solid waste. This suggests that companies adopting this new technology may gain a competitive edge.  Brasil es el quinto mayor productor de calzado del mundo y el principal productor ubicado geográficamente fuera de la región asiática. Esta investigación tiene como objetivo comparar los procesos de producción utilizados en la producción de zapatillas tradicionales y zapatillas con pala de malla rectilínea sin costuras, en modelos de baja complejidad (que requieren pocas operaciones de corte y costura de la parte superior). A través de investigaciones bibliográficas, aplicadas y cualitativas de carácter exploratório, se comparó el flujo de producción, el tiempo empleado en la fabricación de los zapatos y la cantidad de residuos textiles sólidos generados por los respectivos procesos productivos. Aunque los resultados experimentales del estudio de caso se limitan a dos modelos de zapatillas, producidas por dos tecnologías diferentes, con un par de zapatillas de cada modelo con su respectivo proceso de producción, los análisis mostraron que en la producción de zapatos con pala de malla sin costuras hay una reducción en las etapas del proceso de producción y la cantidad de residuos sólidos desechados,  lo que indica que las empresas que adopten esta nueva tecnología tendrán un aumento en competitividad.  O Brasil é o quinto maior produtor de calçados do mundo, e principal produtor situado geograficamente fora da região asiática. A presente pesquisa tem como objetivo comparar os processos produtivos utilizados na produção de tênis tradicionais e de tênis com cabedais de malha retilínea sem costura, em modelos de baixa complexidade (que necessitam de poucas operações no corte e na costura dos cabedais). Por meio de pesquisa bibliográfica, aplicada e qualitativa de cunho exploratório, foram comparados o fluxo de produção, o tempo gasto para a fabricação dos calçados e a quantidade de resíduos sólidos têxteis gerados pelos respectivos processos produtivos. Embora os resultados experimentais do estudo de caso limitem-se a dois modelos de tênis, produzidos por duas tecnologias distintas, sendo um par de tênis de cada modelo com seu respectivo processo produtivo, as análises indicaram que na produção dos calçados com cabedais de malha sem costura existe redução das etapas do processo de produção e da quantidade de resíduos sólidos descartado, indicando portanto que as empresas que adotarem essa nova tecnologia terão um aumento de competitividade

Assessment and technological forecasting in the textile industry : from first industrial revolution to the industry 4.0

Each Industrial Revolution played a key role in the production-consumption pattern of textile products. Given the complexity of the Textile and Apparel Industry, the production systems have varying degrees of conceptual and technological innovation. Thus, the objective of this research is to present a model that includes the projection of technological changes in the production and consumption of textiles from the contrast between the descriptions of patents, scientific articles, and trends and tools of the Industry 4.0. It was possible to infer that the components of the Textile and Apparel Industry are undergoing an evolutionary process, which includes the automation of machinery parts and processes. The technological tools that characterize the Industry 4.0 are not yet fully integrated into textile production, and the challenge for the textile industry is to keep up with these innovations that impact on production, on business models, on consumer habits, and on social aspects113193202COORDENAÇÃO DE APERFEIÇOAMENTO DE PESSOAL DE NÍVEL SUPERIOR - CAPESNão te

Materiais de descarte das Micro e Pequenas Confecções - Uma proposta de procedimento para o desenvolvimento de produtos sustentáveis na indústria têxtil

Esta pesquisa teve como objetivo propor procedimentos, utilizando como referência a metodologia projetual de Löbach para desenvolvimento de produtos sustentáveis têxteis a partir de sobras dos materiais das micro e pequenas confecções. A Metodologia utilizada foi a pesquisa bibliográfica, que constitui o procedimento básico para os estudos monográficos, e a pesquisa exploratória, pois não requer a formulação de hipóteses para serem testadas. Ela se restringe por definir objetivos, buscar mais informações sobre determinado assunto de estudo e identificar qual o melhor método a ser utilizado. No caso deste projeto, a ideia foi adaptar a sintetização de Löbach no processo de design, relacionando-o com o processo de resolução de problemas e o processo criativo, em quatro iniciativas essenciais: definir claramente o problema (preparação); reunir informações sobre o problema, analisá-las e relacioná-las criativamente entre si (geração); criar alternativas de soluções para o problema, julgando-as segundo critérios estabelecidos (avaliação) e desenvolver a alternativa mais adequada, concretizando-a (realização). Após a elaboração do projeto, comprovou-se que a metodologia utilizada se mostrou viável para o desenvolvimento de produtos sustentáveis, voltados para a sociedade e consumo

Assessment and technological forecasting in the textile industry: From first industrial revolution to the Industry 4.0

Each Industrial Revolution played a key role in the production-consumption pattern of textile products. Given the complexity of the Textile and Apparel Industry, the production systems have varying degrees of conceptual and technological innovation. Thus, the objective of this research is to present a model that includes the projection of technological changes in the production and consumption of textiles from the contrast between the descriptions of patents, scientific articles, and trends and tools of the Industry 4.0. It was possible to infer that the components of the Textile and Apparel Industry are undergoing an evolutionary process, which includes the automation of machinery parts and processes. The technological tools that characterize the Industry 4.0 are not yet fully integrated into textile production, and the challenge for the textile industry is to keep up with these innovations that impact on production, on business models, on consumer habits, and on social aspects.Keywords: textile and apparel industry, Industry 4.0, assessment, forecasting