Tackling Overproduction? The Limits of Multistakeholder Initiatives in Fashion

Within global value chains, multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) have become the chief means to address the environmental sustainability concerns rife throughout fibre, textile and garment production. MSIs include a wide array of non-governmental organisations, voluntary sustainability standards and reporting tools. However, MSIs can be critiqued as an incremental rather than transformative approach to environmental sustainability, firmly embedded within a green-growth paradigm. This article examines the limits and opportunities of MSIs in aiding a systemic transformation for sustainability within the fashion system. By analysing fashion-specific MSIs at two time points, 2017 and 2021, we identify that while MSI membership is growing and a degree of consolidation and harmonisation is occurring, environmental gains are offset by unrelenting growth in production. Drawing upon principles of degrowth, we propose that a scenario in which an MSI construct could have transformative power is one in which overproduction is explicitly addressed

Student Adaptability and Achievement on a Psychology Conversion Course

Adaptability refers to an individual’s cognitive, behavioural, and emotional adjustment in the face of novel, changing, or uncertain situations. A growing literature has demonstrated the influence of adaptability on students’ academic outcomes at primary, secondary level, and more recently, tertiary levels; however, its influence on students’ academic outcomes on postgraduate psychology conversion courses – who are typically transitioning back into education and focusing on a different academic discipline – has yet to be examined. In this study, students enrolled on a postgraduate psychology conversion course in higher education were assessed for their adaptability, academic motivation, and academic background in semester 1. Their academic achievement (grade point average) was then obtained from the Student Records System, along with demographic information at the end of semester 3 upon course completion. Bivariate (zero order) correlation analyses revealed that only adaptability and disability status were significantly associated with academic achievement. A multiple regression analysis revealed that adaptability was the strongest predictor of academic achievement. These findings have important implications for researchers and educators seeking to understand students’ adjustment to university –and postgraduate psychology conversion courses in particular – and its influence on academic outcomes

Fashion Justice

This special issue brings together scholars who have identified justice issues throughout the fashion system, encompassing how fashion is produced, consumed and discarded. While fashion systems have long been the focus of deep and varied perspectives on sustainability, from the environmental to social and cultural, we argue that characterising fashion justice as an environmental justice issue can usefully account for the multiple and intersecting ways in which fashion systems impact both human and more-than-human capabilities (Bick et al. 2018). Against the backdrop of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and SDG 12 in particular, which calls for sustainable consumption and production patterns, it is timely and appropriate to consider fashion systems as a broader global environmental justice concern

Spinning a sustainable yarn: Environmental sustainability and brand story in the Australian fashion industry

In the Australian fashion industry, few fashion brands have intervened in the design of their products or the systems around their product to tackle environmental pollution and waste. Instead, support of charities (whether social or environmental) has become conflated with sustainability in the eyes of the public. Thus it is difficult to assess with any accuracy fashion brands’ response to sustainability. This article aims to address this through proposing a categorization system to structure the various interventions that a company may make. This system is applied to two case studies, analysing campaigns that respond to environmental sustainability by two established Australian brands, Country Road and Billabong. The case studies demonstrate how the interventions employed by a company, at least in the Australian context, are carefully developed to align with their brand story, revealing the interplay between the intangible aspects of a brand’s positioning and the tangible, measurable impacts of their garments

Reaching Underserved Borrower Prospects: A Case Of A Small Rural Bank

Banks want to serve all members of their market, to meet government regulations as well as to follow company policy.  This paper describes a case study of the efforts of a small rural bank to develop a marketing plan to target potential borrowers in underserved groups.  First, market demographic data were used to determine the current population size, income, and race composition of the market.  Second, publicly available competitor data were used to assess peer banks in surrounding market areas.  The third task was to identify underserved socio-economic groups and develop prospect lists.  Fourth, the bank developed outreach efforts to promote bank financial services to target groups.  Fifth, the bank delivered educational programs for target individuals and families.  Sixth, the outreach efforts were evaluated.  Finally, the bank considered options for promoting bank services to underserved residents in the future.  This paper illustrates the difficulty for a small, rural bank to diversify its borrower base, and presents some efforts that a bank can take to pursue its goal of serving all members of its community

Exploring attitudes to technology adoption for cross compliance in Greek and Lithuanian farmers

© The Authors.The fourth agricultural revolution has started with an explosion of online, smart, digital technologies that are now available to support farmers to improve their operations is enabling opportunities for direct integration between agricultural and computer-based systems. However, the wide range of devices and applications available can be overwhelming and the farming community is showing reluctance to adoption of these new technologies. As part of an EU-funded, multi-partner research project we developed, in collaboration with farmers and other stakeholders, a novel on-line system that supports EU farmers and paying agencies to reduce the administrative burden of CAP’s cross compliance record-keeping and inspections. During the co-development phase we interviewed Greek and Lithuanian farmers about their user needs in relation to the novel system and their potential adoption of this new technology. We analysed their qualitative responses and could identify two groups; ‘Optimistic’ and ‘Reluctant’ in relation to their use of novel technologies. In order to achieve up-take of new technologies within the European farming community, we considered these findings using the Theory of Planned Behaviour and concluded that focussing on the ease of adoption and peer usage would encourage the highest adoption rates as opposed to focusing on changing farmer attitudes

Harmonic Force Constants for Molecular Mechanics Force Fields via Hessian Matrix Projection.

A modification to the Seminario method [ Int. J. Quantum Chem. 1996 , 60 , 1271 - 1277 ] is proposed, which derives accurate harmonic bond and angle molecular mechanics force field parameters directly from the quantum mechanical Hessian matrix. The new method reduces the average error in the reproduction of quantum mechanical normal-mode frequencies of a benchmark set of 70 molecules from 12.3% using the original method, to 6.3%. The modified Seminario method is fully automated, and all parameters are computed directly from quantum mechanical data, thereby avoiding interdependency between bond and angle parameters and other components of the force field. A complete set of bond and angle force field parameters for the 20 naturally occurring amino acids is also provided for use in the future development of protein force fields

Development and Validation of the Quantum Mechanical Bespoke Protein Force Field.

Molecular mechanics force field parameters for macromolecules, such as proteins, are traditionally fit to reproduce experimental properties of small molecules, and thus, they neglect system-specific polarization. In this paper, we introduce a complete protein force field that is designed to be compatible with the quantum mechanical bespoke (QUBE) force field by deriving nonbonded parameters directly from the electron density of the specific protein under study. The main backbone and sidechain protein torsional parameters are rederived in this work by fitting to quantum mechanical dihedral scans for compatibility with QUBE nonbonded parameters. Software is provided for the preparation of QUBE input files. The accuracy of the new force field, and the derived torsional parameters, is tested by comparing the conformational preferences of a range of peptides and proteins with experimental measurements. Accurate backbone and sidechain conformations are obtained in molecular dynamics simulations of dipeptides, with NMR J coupling errors comparable to the widely used OPLS force field. In simulations of five folded proteins, the secondary structure is generally retained, and the NMR J coupling errors are similar to standard transferable force fields, although some loss of the experimental structure is observed in certain regions of the proteins. With several avenues for further development, the use of system-specific nonbonded force field parameters is a promising approach for next-generation simulations of biological molecules

Development and internal validation of the multivariable CIPHER (Collaborative Integrated Pregnancy High-dependency Estimate of Risk) clinical risk prediction model

Background: Intensive care unit (ICU) outcome prediction models, such as Acute Physiology And Chronic Health Evaluation (APACHE), were designed in general critical care populations and their use in obstetric populations is contentious. The aim of the CIPHER (Collaborative Integrated Pregnancy High-dependency Estimate of Risk) study was to develop and internally validate a multivariable prognostic model calibrated specifically for pregnant or recently delivered women admitted for critical care.Methods: A retrospective observational cohort was created for this study from 13 tertiary facilities across five high-income and six low- or middle-income countries. Women admitted to an ICU for more than 24 h during pregnancy or less than 6 weeks post-partum from 2000 to 2012 were included in the cohort. A composite primary outcome was defined as maternal death or need for organ support for more than 7 days or acute life-saving intervention. Model development involved selection of candidate predictor variables based on prior evidence of effect, availability across study sites, and use of LASSO (Least Absolute Shrinkage and Selection Operator) model building after multiple imputation using chained equations to address missing data for variable selection. The final model was estimated using multivariable logistic regression. Internal validation was completed using bootstrapping to correct for optimism in model performance measures of discrimination and calibration.Results: Overall, 127 out of 769 (16.5%) women experienced an adverse outcome. Predictors included in the final CIPHER model were maternal age, surgery in the preceding 24 h, systolic blood pressure, Glasgow Coma Scale score, serum sodium, serum potassium, activated partial thromboplastin time, arterial blood gas (ABG) pH, serum creatinine, and serum bilirubin. After internal validation, the model maintained excellent discrimination (area under the curve of the receiver operating characteristic (AUROC) 0.82, 95% confidence interval (CI) 0.81 to 0.84) and good calibration (slope of 0.92, 95% CI 0.91 to 0.92 and intercept of −0.11, 95% CI −0.13 to −0.08).Conclusions: The CIPHER model has the potential to be a pragmatic risk prediction tool. CIPHER can identify critically ill pregnant women at highest risk for adverse outcomes, inform counseling of patients about risk, and facilitate bench-marking of outcomes between centers by adjusting for baseline risk

Using Real-World Data to Guide Ustekinumab Dosing Strategies for Psoriasis: A Prospective Pharmacokinetic-Pharmacodynamic Study.

Variation in response to biologic therapy for inflammatory diseases, such as psoriasis, is partly driven by variation in drug exposure. Real-world psoriasis data were used to develop a pharmacokinetic/pharmacodynamic (PK/PD) model for the first-line therapeutic antibody ustekinumab. The impact of differing dosing strategies on response was explored. Data were collected from a UK prospective multicenter observational cohort (491 patients on ustekinumab monotherapy, drug levels, and anti-drug antibody measurements on 797 serum samples, 1,590 measurements of Psoriasis Area Severity Index (PASI)). Ustekinumab PKs were described with a linear one-compartment model. A maximum effect (Emax ) model inhibited progression of psoriatic skin lesions in the turnover PD mechanism describing PASI evolution while on treatment. A mixture model on half-maximal effective concentration identified a potential nonresponder group, with simulations suggesting that, in future, the model could be incorporated into a Bayesian therapeutic drug monitoring "dashboard" to individualize dosing and improve treatment outcomes