MANÜEL ÖZNİTELİK ÇIKARIMI VE DERİN ÖĞRENME KULLANILARAK KUMAŞ YUMUŞAKLIĞI VE BONCUKLANMA DEĞERLERİNİN OBJEKTİF BİR ŞEKİLDE ÖLÇÜLMESİ VE SINIFLANDIRILMASI

Fabric softness is a complex tactile sensation perceived by the user even before the fabrics are worn. Softness is usually the property of surface perceived by touching or pressing a finger on the fabric surface. Fabric friction properties significantly affect the tactile sensation of the garments. The yarn used, the finishing works, and the fabric structure (weaving, knitting, etc.) affect the softness. In addition, the hardness of the water used during washing, washing movements, the amount and content of the detergent and softener used also have permanent effects on the fabric softness. Softness can be evaluated by the jury members with proven effectiveness according to the predetermined scale. Our achievement within the scope of the thesis is to eliminate the differences that may occur as a result of the subjective evaluation, which may arise from qualitative observations by basing the degree of softness evaluated qualitatively on numerical data and to obtain clearer and more precise results by adding quantitative features to the evaluation process. The methodology developed for softness assessment is also applied for another textile deterioration parameter, namely pilling, and its results are also reported.Kumaş yumuşaklığı kumaşların giyilmesinden bile önce kullanıcı tarafından algılanan karmaşık bir dokunma hissidir. Yumuşaklık genellikle kumaşın parmaklarla sıkılması veya preslenmesi ile algılanan yüzey özelliğidir. Kumaş sürtünme özellikleri, giysilerin dokunma duyumlarını büyük ölçüde etkiler. Kullanılan iplik, bitim işleri ve kumaş yapısı (dokuma, örme vb.) yumuşaklığı etkilemektedir. Bunun yanında yıkama sırasında işlem gördüğü su sertliği, yıkama hareketleri, kullanılan deterjan ve yumuşatıcının miktarı ve içeriğinden de etkilenmektedir. Görsel olarak test edilen bir diğer tekstil özelliklerinden olan yumuşaklık, etkinliği kanıtlanmış jüri üyeleri tarafından aşağıdaki skalaya göre değerlendirilebilmektedir. Tez kapsamındaki kazanımımız nitel olarak değerlendirilen yumuşaklık derecesinin, sayısal verilere dayandırılarak, nitel gözlemlerden doğabilecek görsel değerlendirme sonucu oluşacak farklılıkların giderilmesi ve değerlendirme prosesine nicel özellik kazandırarak daha net ve kesin sonuçların elde edilmesidir. Yumuşaklık için geliştirilen metodoloji değerlendirme aynı zamanda başka bir tekstil bozulma parametresi, boncuklanma için de uygulanmış ve sonuçları raporlanmıştır.M.S. - Master of Scienc

QUALITY EVALUATION OF JEANS AT THREE PRICE CATEGORIES

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the specifications, appearance and performance characteristics of jeans at three price categories and to evaluate the relationship between price and product quality. Three brands; Lucky, Gap, and Faded Glory represented men’s jeans in the price categories of better, moderate, and mass merchant (budget). Jeans were inspected and the design, material, and construction specifications were identified and compared. The appearance and performance characteristics of jeans were evaluated initially and compared to the initial characteristics after one and five launderings. ASTM and AATCC test methods were used to evaluate color difference, colorfastness to dry and wet crocking, smoothness retention, fabric breaking strength, seam strength, and dimensional change. The results of the study found that Lucky jeans had more design, material, and construction details, which would be preferable for style focused consumers with less interest on durability characteristics. Gap jeans had the highest fabric breaking strength and would be suitable for price-conscious consumers interested in durability as well as style and design. Home laundering had less impact on the appearance and performance characteristics of Faded Glory jeans and the price-conscious consumers that are primarily interested in durability would prefer Faded Glory jean

Study of the application of advanced technologies to laminar flow control systems for subsonic transports. Volume 1: Summary

A study was conducted to evaluate the technical and economic feasibility of applying laminar flow control to the wings and empennage of long-range subsonic transport aircraft compatible with initial operation in 1985. For a design mission range of 10,186 km (5500 n mi), advanced technology laminar-flow-control (LFC) and turbulent-flow (TF) aircraft were developed for both 200 and 400-passenger payloads, and compared on the basis of production costs, direct operating costs, and fuel efficiency. Parametric analyses were conducted to establish the optimum geometry for LFC and TF aircraft, advanced LFC system concepts and arrangements were evaluated, and configuration variations maximizing the effectiveness of LFC were developed. For the final LFC aircraft, analyses were conducted to define maintenance costs and procedures, manufacturing costs and procedures, and operational considerations peculiar to LFC aircraft. Compared to the corresponding advanced technology TF transports, the 200- and 400-passenger LFC aircraft realized reductions in fuel consumption up to 28.2%, reductions in direct operating costs up to 8.4%, and improvements in fuel efficiency, in ssm/lb of fuel, up to 39.4%. Compared to current commercial transports at the design range, the LFC study aircraft demonstrate improvements in fuel efficiency up to 131%. Research and technology requirements requisite to the development of LFC transport aircraft were identified

Active Interpersonal Touch Gives Rise to the Social Softness Illusion

Summary Social touch plays a powerful role in human life, with important physical and mental health benefits in development and adulthood. Touch is central in building the foundations of social interaction, attachment, and cognition [1-5], and early, social touch has unique, beneficial neurophysiological and epigenetic effects [6-9]. The recent discovery of a separate neurophysiological system for affectively laden touch in humans has further kindled scientific interest in the area [10, 11]. Remarkably, however, little is known about what motivates and sustains the human tendency to touch others in a pro-social manner. Given the importance of social touch, we hypothesized that active stroking elicits more sensory pleasure when touching others' skin than when touching one's own skin. In a set of six experiments (total N = 133) we found that healthy participants, mostly tested in pairs to account for any objective differences in skin softness, consistently judged another's skin as feeling softer and smoother than their own skin. We further found that this softness illusion appeared selectively when the touch activated a neurophysiological system for affective touch in the receiver. We conclude that this sensory illusion underlies a novel, bodily mechanism of socio-affective bonding and enhances our motivation to touch others

Study of the application of advanced technologies to laminar-flow control systems for subsonic transports. Volume 2: Analyses

For abstract, see N76-24144

On the Role of Affective Properties in Hedonic and Discriminant Haptic Systems

Common haptic devices are designed to effectively provide kinaesthetic and/or cutaneous discriminative inputs to the users by modulating some physical parameters. However, in addition to this behavior, haptic stimuli were proven to convey also affective inputs to the brain. Nevertheless, such affective properties of touch are often disregarded in the design (and consequent validation) of haptic displays. In this paper we present some preliminary experimental evidences about how emotional feelings, intrinsically present while interacting with tactile displays, can be assessed. We propose a methodology based on a bidimensional model of elicited emotions evaluated by means of simple psychometric tests and statistical inference. Specifically, affective dimensions are expressed in terms of arousal and valence, which are quantified through two simple one-question psychometric tests, whereas statistical inference is based on rank-based non-parametric tests. In this work we consider two types of haptic systems: (i) a softness display, FYD-2, which was designed to convey purely discriminative softness haptic stimuli and (ii) a system designed to convey affective caress-like stimuli (by regulating the velocity and the strength of the “caress”) on the user forearm. Gender differences were also considered. In both devices, the affective component clearly depends on the stimuli and it is gender-related. Finally, we discuss how such outcomes might be profitably used to guide the design and the usage of haptic devices, in order to take into account also the emotional component, thus improving system performance

Investigation and customisation of snowboard performance characteristics for different riding styles

The major aim of the research is to fully characterise the design of modern snowboards in terms of feel through identification and customisation of their on-snow performance characteristics. A comprehensive set of subjective performance parameters is formulated through a series of online surveys and interviews, which cover all facets of riding. The relative importance and optimal level of each of the parameters are determined for both freeride and freestyle snowboards. Nine expert snowboarders are used in this investigation to provide systematic on-snow ratings of the subjective parameters for three high-quality test snowboards that span these major riding styles. The Quality Function Deployment method is utilised to link these subjective performance characteristics to 31 objective design parameters that completely define modern snowboards. Relevant data is obtained from the user surveys, interviews and on-snow tests, and the bending stiffness is identified as the most important objective parameter. An associated Market Opportunity Map is used to determine an innovation opportunity existing within the snowboard marketplace for a versatile model that performs well in both major riding styles. A versatility value is formulated in the research, indicating which design parameters are both crucial to the feel of snowboards and change markedly between freeride and freestyle designs. The results demonstrate that together with bending stiffness, torsional stiffness and camber also strongly affect the feel and performance between the major riding styles. To enable the customisation of snowboard designs to fulfil any performance requirements, a general parametric model is developed. The model uses a discrete set of objective parameters together with user characteristics to predict the on-snow performance of the design. Two different performance prediction measures are implemented in the model. The first is a correlation based measure, which utilises individual Spearman ranked correlations between the objective design parameters and subjective performance parameters determined during the research. Conversely, the second is an exponent based performance measure that uses three key objective design attributes to estimate each subjective performance parameter. These performance measures are validated against the existing subjective and objective datasets, with a coefficient of determination generated for each expression. An applied code is developed to predict the bending and torsional stiffness properties for any snowboard sandwich composite structure that utilises common fabric configurations. The model also provides an estimation of the total mass, as well as the camber change for a discrete temperature differential. A simple but effective validation of the code is undertaken through the manufacture and static testing of three sandwich composite samples of different structure and geometry. Utilising the snowboard performance prediction model, an optimal feel design is generated in each of the major riding styles. The final outcome of the investigation is the generation of guidelines for the customised design, manufacture and testing of modern snowboards. A table is developed which summarises this process, including the specification of all required inputs from the rider, together with the methods, analyses and information drawn from the current research

Development and Characterization of Weft-Knitted Fabrics of Naturally Occurring Polymer Fibers for Sustainable and Functional Textiles

[EN] This study focuses on the potential uses in textiles of fibers of soy protein (SP) and chitin, which are naturally occurring polymers that can be obtained from agricultural and food processing by-products and wastes. The as-received natural fibers were first subjected to a three-step manufacturing process to develop yarns that were, thereafter, converted into fabrics by weft knitting. Different characterizations in terms of physical properties and comfort parameters were carried out on the natural fibers and compared to waste derived fibers of coir and also conventional cotton and cotton-based fibers, which are widely used in the textile industry. The evaluation of the geometry and mechanical properties revealed that both SP and chitin fibers showed similar fineness and tenacity values than cotton, whereas coir did not achieve the expected properties to develop fabrics. In relation to the moisture content, it was found that the SP fibers outperformed the other natural fibers, which could successfully avoid variations in the mechanical performance of their fabrics as well as impair the growth of microorganisms. In addition, the antimicrobial activity of the natural fibers was assessed against different bacteria and fungi that are typically found on the skin. The obtained results indicated that the fibers of chitin and also SP, being the latter functionalized with biocides during the fiber-formation process, showed a high antimicrobial activity. In particular, reductions of up to 100% and 60% were attained for the bacteria and fungi strains, respectively. Finally, textile comfort was evaluated on the weft-knitted fabrics of the chitin and SP fibers by means of thermal and tactile tests. The comfort analysis indicated that the thermal resistance of both fabrics was similar to that of cotton, whereas their air permeability was higher, particularly for chitin due to its higher fineness, which makes these natural fibers very promising for summer clothes. Both the SP and chitin fabrics also presented relatively similar values of fullness and softness than the pure cotton fabric in terms of body feeling and richness. However, the cotton/polyester fabric was the only one that achieved a good range for uses in winter-autumn cloths. Therefore, the results of this work demonstrate that non-conventional chitin and SP fibers can be considered as potential candidates to replace cotton fibers in fabrics for the textile industry due to their high comfort and improved sustainability. Furthermore, these natural fibers can also serve to develop novel functional textiles with antimicrobial properties.This research work was funded by the Spanish Ministry of Science and Innovation (MICI) project number MAT2017-84909-C2-2-R.Ferrándiz, M.; Fages, E.; Rojas-Lema, SP.; Ivorra-Martinez, J.; Gomez-Caturla, J.; Torres-Giner, S. (2021). Development and Characterization of Weft-Knitted Fabrics of Naturally Occurring Polymer Fibers for Sustainable and Functional Textiles. Polymers. 13(4):1-17. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym13040665S11713