Towards an ethical jewellery business

This report presents the results of phase 1 of research which is intended to identify the main social, environmental and ethical issues in the jewellery sector and to assist industry bodies in identifying how to integrate ethical considerations into their activities. The phase one report is based on an extensive review of literature related to ethical issues in the jewellery sector, covering ethical issues throughout the jewellery supply chain, from extraction of jewellery materials by mining processes, through to the retail of finished jewellery. In addition to highlighting established existing knowledge and literature in this field, our report highlights gaps in the literature and understanding that will influence the form and focus of more applied research to be proposed for phase two of the project

The Gemological Collection of Abraham Gottlob Werner

The gemological collection of Abraham Gottlob Werner contains 1374 sample numbers for 25 different minerals with 38 gemological varieties, including 15 newly added numbers of samples, which were not recorded in the original catalog of 1823. In total, 168 samples were recorded as lost by the later researchers, 4 samples were taken for the chain for the rector of the university, samples of 2 different numbers in the catalog were exchanged for cut stones, and 3 times’ volume requisitions happened. A total of 256 sample numbers show discrepancies and therefore are not in accordance with the original record in the catalog. In the collection, 6.8% of the numbers are rock sample with embedded crystals, 20.7% of the numbers are in the form of crystal, 30.6% of the numbers are fragments, 11.6% of the numbers are grains, and the remaining 711 samples are cut. Except for Esa. No. 644a containing four cushion cut samples, all faceted cuts were recorded in the original catalog of 1823. However, the brilliant, oval, step, emerald, scissor, and radiant cut forms were invented after the gemological collection of Werner, which means 189 samples do probably not belong to the original collection. They could be from another collection due to the requisitions, or the later researchers of the collection added or exchanged the samples with new ones. The mineral names of the catalog from 1823 refer to Werner's mineral system, some of the mineral's names are not used anymore. With the development of mineralogy and gemology, the special names of the gemstones as varieties of minerals are gradually standardized. 51 samples are wrong identifications and 8 pieces of glass have been recognized. The zircon samples of the collection provide a research resource for the study of metamictization. Both color and density of zircon could be an indicator of the metamictization degree. The metamictization has a significant influence on the gemological properties of zircon. The green tone and low density cannot be considered as an identifying characteristic of metamict zircon, although they are still a sign of metamictization. Comparing six mineralogical or geological collections at Werner’s time, the catalogs of five collections used his nomenclature of samples and only the catalog of the mineralogical collection of Adolf Traugott von Gersdorf is geographical. To his time the outstanding gemological collection of Abraham Gottlob Werner represented the broadest quantity of gemological varieties. A modern gemological database of the collection has been founded, the meta-data provides an important base for further research and development.:Acknowledgements I Abstract III Table of Contexts IV List of figures VI List of tables VII 1. Introduction 1 1.1 Abraham Gottlob Werner 1 1.2 The mineral system of Werner 1 1.3 The gemological collection of Werner 3 2. Methods 6 2.1 Specific gravity (SG) measurements 6 2.1.1 Hydrostatic weighing 6 2.1.2 He-pycnometer 6 2.2 Color 6 2.2.1 Munsell color system 7 2.2.2 The CIE L*C*h color system 8 2.3 The optical measurements 9 2.3.1 Polariscope 9 2.3.2 Refractometer 10 2.3.3 Dichroscope 11 2.4 Ultraviolet (UV) fluorescence test 12 2.5 Raman spectroscopy 12 3. New model for the inventory of the gemological collection of Werner 13 4. Discussion 16 4.1 Cut cutting in the course of time 16 4.2 Classification of gemstones 24 4.2.1 Individual names of gemstones 25 4.2.2 Different identifications with the catalog of 1823 29 4.2.3 Imitation of gemstones 31 4.3 Raman spectrum study of zircons 32 4.4 Comparison of the outstanding Werner Collection with other collections in the second half of 18th century 39 4.4.1 The natural history collection of Linck family (1638-1807) 39 4.4.2 The Minerals cabinet of Eugen Pabst von Ohain (1718-1784) 40 4.4.3 The natural history collection of the University of Rostock 40 4.4.4 The mineralogical collection of Adolf Traugott von Gersdorf (1744-1807) 41 4.4.5 The mineralogical, geological and paleontological collection of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832) 42 4.4.6 Summary of the additional collections to Werner's time 43 5. Summary 44 Reference 46 Appendix A 59 Appendix B 63 Appendix C 6

A grammar of sentiment thinking about sentimental jewellery towards making new art about love and loss

This practice-led research project explores English and French sentimental jewellery of the Victorian period. ‘Sentimental jewellery’ or ‘message jewellery’ denotes jewellery created to function as a tangible expression of feeling between donor and recipient, mediated through complex narratives relating to its exchange. These artefacts codify emotion through use of complex visual languages, employing the symbolic and coded use of gems, human hair, emblems, words and wordplay. The research has expanded to encompass memorial garments known as ‘widows weeds’. The aims of the research have been threefold: firstly, to add to understanding and interpretation of aspects of Victorian sentimental jewellery and associated craft practices; secondly, to explore the metaphors and narratives inherent within them; thirdly, to test the visual and technical possibilities of knowledge thus gained to address human feeling through art. Outcomes take the form of a body of new artwork and a written thesis, which are designed to be mutually informing. Together, they articulate my response to the project’s central question: can consideration of the ‘grammar of sentiment’ at work in Victorian sentimental jewellery yield new possibilities, through fine art practice, for communicating love and loss in the 21st century? The four artworks that are a main output of the research take the forms of: REGARD:LOVEME, an artist’s book exploring gem codes and wordplay; Plocacosmos, a set of hairworking trials; The Cyanotypes, which reflect upon the materiality and aesthetic of the amatory locket; and Widows Weeds, a large format photographic installation, which considers the materiality and lineage of mourning cloth. Collectively, they explore the typology of the sentimental artefact through development of text/image vocabularies that are conceived as providing a ‘grammar of sentiment’ through which to articulate aspects of human feeling. It is this exploration that constitutes my main contribution to knowledge.EThOS - Electronic Theses Online ServiceGBUnited Kingdo

A survey of the networks bringing a knowledge of optical glass-working to the London trade, 1500-1800

In October 2013, esteemed scientific instrument scholar Anita McConnell contacted the Whipple Museum, wanting to know if there was any way of putting online an unpublished work she had completed in 1997 on "how the technology of glass working for optical purposes reached Britain, 1600-1800." This work had long been recognized by colleagues as an important account of glass-making technique, but access had been limited to those few who had seen the limited number of privately printed copies in circulation

Evaluation in English and Chinese marketing communications : an adaptation of the appraisal framework for the genre of luxury fashion promotional texts

This study draws attention to how evaluation in marketing communications is realised from a linguistic perspective and concludes that evaluation strategies can be different in two languages albeit in the same genre and with the same targets of evaluation. The overall aim of this study is to identify evaluation strategies in the genre of luxury fashion promotional texts in English and Chinese. This is achieved through the application of an adapted Appraisal framework under Systemic Functional Linguistics (SFL). Two comparative corpora, one in English (17,268 words) and the other in Chinese (19,103 words), are compiled from articles taken across the English and Chinese websites of three top-selling multinational luxury clothing companies: Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton between 6th January and 8th March 2017, at the time of data collection when all the luxury fashion brands held fashion shows and their websites had potentially more updates, i.e. more articles. To identify the evaluation strategies, an extended framework of the Appraisal theory is established from Martin and White’s (2005) and Don’s (2016) as their frameworks are for general texts and a more specific framework for luxury fashion promotional texts is needed. This entails a great extension under the subsystem of Appreciation, in which subtypes related to the concepts of luxury and fashion are developed. The main findings indicate that firstly, the evaluation in the Chinese corpus is more explicit than the English corpus. This is not only due to the Chinese corpus having more instances of explicit evaluation, but even when the occurrence frequencies of implicit evaluation instances are similar in both corpora, the ways evaluation are implied are still comparatively more explicit in the Chinese corpus. Secondly, the Chinese corpus adopts a more emotive approach than the English corpus because of the substantially higher frequency of one particular subtype of emotional markers (identified as Reaction:Quality in the Appreciation system) in the Chinese corpus. Findings also show implications for marketing communications between the two languages in expressing some luxury- and fashion-related values. Despite a few caveats such as the researcher’s subjectivity, and some degrees of ambiguity in between subtypes in the original Appraisal framework, it is argued that this research can contribute to the studies and practice of SFL, marketing, intercultural communication and transcreation

Palaeontological resources in England and Scotland : assessing the requirement for the regulation of collecting activities

Abstract unavailable please refer to PD

Engineering geological characterization of volcanic rocks of ethiopian and sardinian highlands to be used as construction materials

This thesis presents the results of the study conducted on the “Geoengineering characterization of volcanic rocks from Ethiopian and Sardinian highlands to be used as construction materials”. Though, the two project areas are geographically far apart, both are partly covered with volcanic rocks mainly consisting of basic and subordinate felsic rocks. The research was conducted in two countries; part I, the Ethiopian Project area located on the northwestern central Highlands of the Amhara regional state. It is characterized by rugged topography being situated on the western margin of the Main Ethiopian Rift, while, Part II, the Sardinian Project area, is located in the northwestern central part of the Island stretched from Abbasanta-Borore on the Altopiano di Abbasanta. The major objectives of the study in both project areas include; a) engineering geological characterization of the volcanic rocks of Sardinian (Abbasanta-Borore area) and Ethiopian highland (Tarmaber formation) to be used as construction materials b)assessing the volcanic rocks for their suitability to be used as building stone and coarse aggregates/construction materials with regard to the various time honoured standards and specifications like American Society for Testing and Materials(ASTM), British Standards(BS), American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO), Ente Nazionale Italiano di Unificazione (UNIEN) c) presenting a conceptual framework which puts forward a vision for future crushed aggregate characterization of the Tarmaber formation, d)evaluation and comparison of the physical and mechanical properties of the Sardinian highland Plio- Quaternary basalt with that of Ethiopian Tarmaber formation(basalt). The field work in the Ethiopian study area was accomplished in two phases, the first field work was conducted during the months of February and July, 2011 and the second was in February and September, 2012, while the Sardinian project field work was carried out during May and June, 2012. In all these field work periods geological traverses, field documentations and adequate samples were collected for the various laboratory tests in both project areas. Laboratory testing of chemical, physical and mechanical properties were carried out to characterize the volcanic rocks from both study areas to ascertain the suitability of the rocks as construction materials. iv Geologically, the Ethiopian study area is part of the Miocene Shield volcanic terrain that covered the western and north western central plateaux of Ethiopia forming a conspicuous land feature in East Africa. The studied area is specifically covered with the Tarmaber formation (Megezez subdivision) consisting of aphyric basalt, phyric basalt, trachybasalt, ignimbrite/rhyolite, tuff and minor trachyte. Thorough literature review has been conducted on volcanic rocks as construction materials and from the compiled information a laboratory testing program was envisaged and conducted on the samples collected from the studied areas. Selection of the tests was based upon the tests’ precision, efficiency, and predictive capabilities and relevancy for the specific geographic location and geologic formation. In the laboratory testing phase of this project, the proposed tests were used to evaluate the full range of the project area crushed aggregate resources. Moreover, a conceptual laboratory test flow diagram is developed for future aggregate characterization of the Ethiopian project area. Furthermore, a geological map is prepared outlining the various lithotypes which could help to predict the geo-engineering properties of the rocks by identifying the rock types. The Ethiopian project area is the major source and future potential of crushed coarse aggregates by both private and public sectors. This study has identified recent advances in the understanding and testing of crushed aggregates to be produced from the Tarmaber formation (Megezez subdivision). The geo-engineering properties depend on the mineral composition, texture and overall fabrics of the rock. Each of the rock type crushed aggregate demonstrates rather well defined ranges of geo-engineering properties and mineralogical characteristics. The laboratory work included Uniaxial Compressive Strength, Abrasion resistance, Ultrasonic pulse velocity, Bulk density, Water absorption, Specific gravity, Porosity, Petrographic examination, Aggregate Impact Value (AIV), Aggregate Crushing Value (ACV), Los Angeles Abrasion Value (LAAV), Sodium Sulphate Soundness Value (SSSV), X-ray Diffraction(XRD) and Alkali-Silica Reactivity(ASR), Water soluble Sulphate and Chloride tests. The physical and mechanical properties like Water absorption, Flakiness and Elongation indices, and Specific gravity, strength and durability parameters have been determined and examined critically with reference to suitability and stability, taking into consideration the various specifications and time honoured standards. Hence, based on the geo-engineering and petrographic properties, optimal end uses of the different rock types have also been discussed even though the current study is mainly geared towards crushed aggregate sources for cement and asphalt concrete mix. The field and laboratory works were compiled and compared together to reveal the engineering performance of the basaltic rocks in terms of crushed coarse aggregates suitability. The basaltic rocks show a variety of textural and mineralogical characteristics, which may affect their physical and mechanical properties as well as their use as construction materials. The Uniaxial compressive strength of the basaltic rock ranges from 130MPa to 350MPa, Ultrasonic pulse velocity from 4000m/s to7000m/s, Open porosity from 0.95% to 3.08%, Bulk density from 2.8g/cm3 to 3.03g/cm3, Point load index from 4.83 to15.29MPa, Water absorption from 0.33% to 1.08%, Dynamic Elastic Modulus from 64GPa to 120GPa, Abrasion Resistance(Capon wheel) from 15.5mm to 25.2mm, Specific gravity from 2.51 to 3.00, SSSV from 1% to 10%, ACV from 15% to 30%, AIV from 20% to 36%, TPFV from 110kN to 200kN, Los Angeles Abrasion Value from 12% to 30%, Flakiness index from 15% to 37%, and Elongation index from 15% to 38%. The Alkali-Silica Reactivity test was carried out using ‘Mielenz quick chemical’ test (ASTM C289) and few basaltic flow layers were found to be potentially Alkali-Silica Reactive. The petrographic examination and XRD analysis also confirmed the presence of reactive quartz and harmful zeolite group minerals. In this study, the different rock types has been investigated as sources of individual rock type crushed aggregate for specific end use rather than aggregates comprised of various rock types. In this respect, the aphyric basalts are found to be the most suitable crushed aggregate source for ordinary Portland cement and asphalt concrete, sub base and base course. The porphyritic basalt and glassy rhyolite should be used in unbound pavements only. The minor amounts of zeolite bearing uppermost layer of phyric columnar basalt also should be avoided from concrete making for safe stability of structures due to risk of potential Alkali silica reactivity. Geochemically the Tarmaber formation represents alkaline-subalkaline bimodal mafic-felsic volcanic series. The mafic volcanic suite is more abundant and characterized by alkaline basalts and minor silica undersaturated rocks (basanites) and the felsic suite is relatively less abundant and represented by strongly welded ignimbrite/rhyolite, tuff and minor lava flows of trachyte. Furthermore, the mafic suite is characterized by sodic affinity on conventional K2O versus Na2O diagram. The Fe2O3 content is high for all the samples (11.53-15.79%) and high Na2O + K2O content (~4.04-6.2%) is typical of alkaline basalts of Tarmaber formation. The MgO is low (3.45-7%), while 0.3-1.3%P2O5 and 2.8-4.5%TiO2 are relatively high. Loss On Ignition (LOI) varies between 0.5% and 1.5% indicating the unaltered nature of the sampled rocks. The geo-engineering properties of the Tarmaber formation (the basalts and pyroclastics/ignimbrite) indicated that the pyroclastics (ignimbrite) are found to be good building materials with regard to their high uniaxial compressive strength, abrasion resistance and weathering index. However, their relatively higher water absorption and porosity limit them not to be used in public walkways, horizontal pavements, public car parks and flooring in supermarkets in an open environment as intensive use while some flow layers of the basalts are mainly suitable for production of coarse aggregates for cement concrete mix. The Sardinian project area is part of the Plio-Quaternary volcanic rocks that covered the north western central plateaux of the island forming flat topped land feature. The studied area is specifically covered with the ‘Basalti di Plateau” consisting of porphyritic basalt, vesicular basalt, andesitic basalt and trachybasalt. The physical and mechanical tests conducted on these rocks proved the high potential of the studied rocks to be used in the construction industry. The Uniaxial compressive strength ranges from 35 to 177MPa, Ultrasonic P-wave velocity from 4143m/s to 6066m/s, Water absorption from 1.51 to 3.11%, Porosity from 0.64 to 10.33%, Specific gravity from 2.26 to 2.71, Bulk density from 2.2 to 2.69g/cm3, Abrasion Resistance(Capon wheel) from 19.4 to 23.6mm, Point Load index from 1.98 to 7.05MPa, ACV from 19 to 46%, LAAV from 17 to 33%, Dynamic Young’s Modulus from 33GPa to 92GPa to mention a few test results. Furthermore, Alkali Silica Reactivity test, X-ray diffraction analysis and detail petrographic studies were conducted on the collected Sardinian samples. According to the Alkali Silica Reactivity test, a sample is found to be deleterious (highly reactive) and later XRD analysis and petrographic study also confirmed the Alkali Silica Reactivity test result. The Sardinian samples have shown acceptable abrasion resistance values and uniform physical and mechanical properties which guarantee to be used as dimension stone/cut stone. The Abbasanta-Borore Plio-Quaternary basalt resource is huge; however, some clays in some samples were indicated by the XRD analysis and these clays might have deleterious effect when using these basalts as aggregate; therefore, the clay fraction should be determined with quantitative XRD analysis for curiosity, otherwise, almost all the conducted aggregate tests indicated relatively good quality aggregate resource except the vesicular basalt. The vesicular basalt showed poor aggregate test values, like LAAV and Water absorption, ACV and Uncompacted bulk density. However, for its aesthetic value, the vesicular basalt could be used for indoor and sheltered cladding purposes as the case may be. One of the purposes of this research was to compare some of the engineering properties of basaltic rocks to determine whether there are similarities and differences between each of the different source countries, Ethiopia and Sardinia. This is particularly interesting given the distance between the two countries and the different processes that have occurred since the formation of these basaltic rocks. The Ethiopian volcanic successions lack rocks of intermediate composition (bulk rock chemistry: SiO2, 52-63%), defining strong silica gap as observed in other volcanic areas, suggesting the bimodal volcanism nature of the Ethiopian volcanic suite in non subduction tectonic setting and implying anorogenic magmatism probably connected to plume/hot spot source. Geochemically, the Sardinian Plio-Quaternary volcanic rocks lack significant ultrabasic compositions (i.e., bulk rock silica SiO2 composition <45% are rare, Lustrino et al., 2007) while the Ethiopian Tarmaber formation bulk rock silica composition reaches as low as 42% and not greater than 51% while the Sardinian rocks reaches as high as 63% (andesitic). Intermediate rocks are totally absent in the Ethiopian Tarmaber formation. The physical and mechanical properties of the Tarmaber basalt are found to be higher than the Sardinian Plio- Quaternary basalts. Although grouped under the engineering term “basaltic”, there are distinct differences within the specific types present in each of the countries considered in this study, i.e. mainly basaltic andesite in Sardinia and basalt in Ethiopia. Evaluation of the physical and mechanical data indicates that the Ethiopian basalts are typically of higher density and resistance to static crushing than the Sardinian Plio-Quaternary basalt. The difference in engineering properties of aggregates from Sardinia on one hand and Ethiopia on the other hand is explained partly by the chemical composition of the material, but also by geological age, geological history and climate. In both countries the geological history of the basalts might have influenced the aggregate properties. Furthermore and more importantly, regional conditions (such as hydrothermal activity) might have influenced the rock properties and alteration products. The physical and mechanical properties of the Ethiopian basalts have shown better compliance with the various specifications than the Sardinian basaltic samples especially the aggregate test results. viii Comparison of the results is revealing that different physical and mechanical trends are observed from rocks that are similar in basic mineralogical composition. This suggests that the relationships between physical and mechanical properties are often specific to rock type and occurrence. Aggregate quarrying provides necessary raw materials for infrastructure and civil development; however, mining and/or quarrying operations have a non-zero environmental impact. By the very nature of the requirements for the final products, dimension stone and aggregate quarrying is a clean industry from a polluting point of view. Natural aggregates and dimension stone are used in its natural state, and do not require concentration and extraction from an ore; it is these latter two processes that result in significant environmental impacts. However, the visual impacts are often significant, given that many deposits are situated in topographically high areas. The environmental impacts of dimension stone and aggregate quarrying are mainly of temporary duration, and can be effectively managed via revegetation, landscaping, rock shading, if appropriate planning and consideration is followed from the exploration stage through to quarry closure. Hence, quarrying and post-quarrying activities should always target the mitigation of potential environmental and/or social impacts

Voice, Choice, and Governance: The Case of Tanzania's Fairtrade Coffee Co-operatives

PhDThe copyright of this thesis rests with the author and no quotation from it or information derived from it may be published without the prior written consent of the author.This research contributes to the growing body of knowledge about Fairtrade’s impact on producers by assessing voice and governance within producer organizations. I employ Fung and Wright’s (2003) framework of Empowered Participatory Governance (EPG) as a tool for understanding the challenges of collaborative governance as they relate to Fairtrade. EPG combines participation, decentralized decision-making, continuous deliberation and engagement, and co-operation between parties and interests, and as such is well suited to a consideration of Fairtrade governance. Through exploring EPG’s principles, design properties, and enabling conditions related to Fairtrade, I aim to learn more about whether or not this international system is truly achieving collaborative governance that enables individual producers to have a ‘stronger voice’. I consider Fung and Wright’s (2003) notion of countervailing power as a means of understanding how power structures may be challenged to the advantage of those who are typically marginalized within Fairtrade’s governance processes, and incorporate Hirschman’s (1970) work on exit, voice, and loyalty in order to explore alternatives to voice. This multiple case study focuses on Fairtrade coffee co-operatives in Tanzania. Over a period of two years, I conducted 139 individual interviews with key informants, managers, Board members, and producers in East Africa, held focus groups, and observed many events. Overall I found that Fairtrade creates opportunities for producer voice through its governance structures when (i) governance is collaborative and (ii) producers have substantial and equal access to capacity building. However, when individuals do not feel as though they have a voice, exit becomes a viable alternative.This project benefitted from the financial support of Queen Mary, University of London and the Canadian Co-operative Association