CoastalImageLib: An open- source Python package for creating common coastal image products

CoastalImageLib is a Python library that produces common coastal image products intended for quantitative analysis of coastal environments. This library contains functions to georectify and merge multiple oblique camera views, produce statistical image products for a given set of images, and create subsampled pixel instruments for use in bathymetric inversion, surface current estimation, run-up calculations, and other quantitative analyses. This package intends to be an open-source broadly generalizable front end to future coastal imaging applications, ultimately expanding user accessibility to optical remote sensing of coastal environments. This package was developed and tested on data collected from the Argus Tower, a 43 m tall observation structure in Duck, North Carolina at the US Army Engineer Research and Development Center’s Field Research Facility that holds six stationary cameras which collect twice-hourly coastal image products. Thus, CoastalImageLib also contains functions designed to interface with the file storage and collection system implemented at the Argus Tower

Decoding Complex Erosion Responses for the Mitigation of Coastal Rockfall Hazards Using Repeat Terrestrial LiDAR

A key factor limiting our understanding of rock slope behavior and associated geohazards is the interaction between internal and external system controls on the nature, rates, and timing of rockfall activity. We use high-resolution, monthly terrestrial light detection and ranging (LiDAR) surveys over a 2 year monitoring period to quantify rockfall patterns across a 0.6 km-long (15.3 × 103 m2) section of a limestone rock cliff on the northeast coast of England, where uncertainty in rates of change threaten the effective planning and operational management of a key coastal cliff top road. Internal system controls, such as cliff material characteristics and foreshore geometry, dictate rockfall characteristics and background patterns of activity and demonstrate that layer-specific analyses of rockfall inventories and sequencing patterns are essential to better understand the timing and nature of rockfall risks. The influence of external environmental controls, notably storm activity, is also evaluated, and increased storminess corresponds to detectable rises in both total and mean rockfall volume and the volumetric contribution of large (>10 m3) rockfalls at the cliff top during these periods. Transient convergence of the cumulative magnitude–frequency power law scaling exponent (ɑ) during high magnitude events signals a uniform erosion response across the wider cliff system that applies to all lithologies. The tracking of rockfall distribution metrics from repeat terrestrial LiDAR in this way demonstrably improves the ability to identify, monitor, and forecast short-term variations in rockfall hazards, and, as such, provides a powerful new approach for mitigating the threats and impacts of coastal erosion

Field observations of wave induced coastal cliff erosion, Cornwall, UK

Coastal cliff erosion is a widespread problem that threatens property and infrastructure along many of the world’s coastlines. The management of this risk calls for robust quantification of cliff erosion rates, which are often difficult to obtain along rocky coasts. Quantification of sea-cliff rates of retreat on annual to decadal time scales has typically been limited to rapidly eroding soft rock coastlines. Rates of erosion used for shoreline management in the UK are generally based on analysis of historic maps and aerial photographs which, in rocky coast environments, does not wholly capture the detail and timing at which the processes operate and the failures occur across the cliff face. The first stage of this study uses airborne LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) data at nine sites around a rocky coastline (Cornwall, UK) to gain a quantitative understanding of cliff erosion where average recession rates are relatively low (c. 0.1 m yr-1). It was found that three-dimensional volumetric changes on the cliff face and linear rates of retreat can be reliably calculated from consecutive digital elevation models (DEMs) several years apart. Rates of erosion ranged between 0.03–0.3 m yr-1. The spatial variability in recession rates was considered in terms of the relationship with the varying boundary conditions (rock mass characteristics, cliff geometries, beach morphology) and forcing parameters (wave climate and wave exposure). Recession rates were statistically correlated with significant wave height (Hs), rock mass characteristics (GSI) and the ratio between the two (GSI/Hs). Although the rates derived using airborne LiDAR are comparable to the longer term rates of retreat, the detail of erosion to the cliff-face provides additional insight into the processes occurring in slowly eroding environments, which are vital for understanding the failure of harder rock coastlines. In addition to this, the importance of the wave climate and rainfall needs further attention on a more localised scale. Monthly cliff face volume changes, at two particularly vulnerable sites (Porthleven and Godrevy, Cornwall, UK), were detected using a Terrestrial Laser Scanner (TLS). Using these volumes alongside information on beach profile, beach- cliff junction elevation changes and nearshore hydrodynamics have allowed an insight into how the cliffs respond to seasonal fluctuations in wave climate and beach morphology. Monthly variability in beach morphology between the two sites over a one-year survey period i  indicated the influence that beach slope and the elevation of the beach-cliff junction have on the frequency of inundation and the power of wave-cliff impacts. Failure mechanisms between the two sites ranged from rotational sliding of superficial material to quarrying and block removal over the entire cliff elevation, according to the extent of wave-cliff interaction. This particular survey period highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to the variability in wave climate and beach morphology at two different locations in the south-west of the UK, where the vast majority (over 85% of the annual value) of cliff face erosion occurs during the winter when extreme storm waves prevail. Coastal cliff erosion from storm waves is observed worldwide but the processes are notoriously difficult to measure during extreme storm wave conditions when most erosion normally occurs, limiting our understanding of cliff processes. Over January-March 2014, during the largest Atlantic storms in at least 60 years with deep water significant wave heights of 6 – 8 m, cliff-top ground motions of a rocky cliff in the south-west of the UK (Porthleven, Cornwall) showed vertical ground displacements in excess of 50–100 μm; an order of magnitude larger than observations made previously. Repeat terrestrial laser scanner surveys, over a 2-week period encompassing the extreme storms, gave a cliff face volume loss 2 orders of magnitude larger than the long-term erosion rate. Cliff-top ground motions and erosion volumes were compared at two different locations, one a reflective beach with steeply shelving bathymetry (Porthleven, Cornwall) and the other an intermediate, low tide bar-rip beach with a wide coastal slope (Godrevy, Cornwall). Under similar wave conditions (6–8 m Hs and 15–20 s. Tp) the vertical ground motions were an order of magnitude greater at the cliffs fronted by steeply shelving bathymetry, where the breaking waves plunge right at the shoreline, with little prior dissipation, leading to large energetic runup impacting the cliff. These storm results imply that erosion of coastal cliffs exposed to extreme storm waves is highly episodic and that long-term rates of cliff erosion will depend on the frequency and severity of extreme storm wave impacts as well as the wave dissipation that occurs as a function of the nearshore bathymetry. Having recorded microseismic cliff-top motion on this scale for the first time and determined an effective method of monitoring the energetic wave impacts, this study emphasises how investigations of cliff behaviour during storms is not only obtainable, but paramount to understanding coastal evolution under extreme conditions

Multi-scale assessment of shore platform erosion

The morphology and erosion of shore platforms is a pivotal component of rocky coast evolution as these features control both wave transformation and sediment dynamics. Models that predict coastline evolution and efforts to reconstruct past cliff retreat rates from cosmogenic isotope concentrations are forced to simplify platform morphology and commonly treat erosion only implicitly. The lack of an explicit incorporation of platform dynamics into such models reflects a poor understanding of erosion processes that have conventionally been considered to operate at one of two scales: fine scale abrasion captured by sub-mm precision point measurements of vertical change, and step back-wearing and block removal at metre-scale. Neither approach is well suited to informing a generalised model of foreshore erosion that bridges these two scales or that can be applied more widely. As a result without understanding mechanisms of foreshore erosion models which use these data are limited in their utility to address future coastal change under changing sea level and storminess. To address this a multi-scale study was undertaken along the North Yorkshire coast (UK) using high-resolution and high-precision monitoring data collected at the spatial and temporal scales relevant to the processes in action. A novel method was developed to monitor mm-scale platform erosion using Structure-from-Motion (SfM) photogrammetry. The average platform down-wearing rate of 0.528 mm yr-1 was calculated from 15 individual 0.5×0.5 m sites. The volume frequency and 3D-shape distributions of the detachments suggest that erosion occurs predominantly via detachment of fabric-defined platelets. The erosion rate is faster closer to the cliff toe and at those locations where the tide cycles more frequently. Erosion rates calculated from the 2.6 years of data from 22 km of shore platform using high-resolution airborne LiDAR was 3.45 mm yr-1 when derived from individual detachments, or 0.01 mm yr-1 when spatially averaged across the platform. Average lowering of the platform sections containing steps was 0.04 mm yr-1, while in areas with no steps 0.01 mm yr-1. Whilst erosion rate cannot be predicted with confidence for any discrete point on the foreshore, systematic trends in across-shore erosion can be shown, with a peak in rate at 10-18 m from the cliff toe, with erosion intensity gradually decreasing seawards. This new understanding of foreshore erosion has then been used to predict exposure ages from cosmogenic 10Be concentrations at the Hartle Loup platform. This analysis shows that the cliff has been retreating at the steady rate of 0.05 m yr-1 cutting the 300 m wide shore platform in the last 6 kyr. This derives rates of retreat comparable to contemporary erosion monitoring. Platform morphology has been shown not to adjust to an equilibrium shape, but it is rather actively modified depending on the interplay between present morphology, sea level and tidal regime. Importantly, this study provides methods to monitor foreshore erosion, enhances our understanding of mechanisms and controls upon it, whilst the results can be used in models to predict rocky coast evolution by providing an empirically-based assessment of foreshore erosion

Benthic habitat mapping in coastal waters of south–east Australia

The Victorian Marine Mapping Project will improve knowledge on the location, spatial distribution, condition and extent of marine habitats and associated biodiversity in Victorian State waters. This information will guide informed decision making, enable priority setting, and assist in targeted natural resource management planning. This project entails benthic habitat mapping over 500 square kilometers of Victorian State waters using multibeam sonar, towed video and image classification techniques. Information collected includes seafloor topography, seafloor softness and hardness (reflectivity), and information on geology and benthic flora and fauna assemblages collectively comprising habitat. Computerized semi-automated classification techniques are also being developed to provide a cost effective approach to rapid mapping and assessment of coastal habitats.Habitat mapping is important for understanding and communicating the distribution of natural values within the marine environment. The coastal fringe of Victoria encompasses a rich and diverse ecosystem representative of coastal waters of South-east Australia. To date, extensive knowledge of these systems is limited due to the lack of available data. Knowledge of the distribution and extent of habitat is required to target management activities most effectively, and provide the basis to monitor and report on their status in the future.<br /

Regional-scale controls on rockfall occurrence

Rockfalls exert a first-order control on the rate of rock wall retreat on mountain slopes and on coastal rock cliffs. Their occurrence is conditioned by a combination of intrinsic (resisting) and extrinsic (driving) processes, yet determining the exact effects of these processes on rockfall activity and the resulting cliff erosion remains difficult. Although rockfall activity has been monitored extensively in a variety of settings, high-resolution observations of rockfall occurrence on a regional scale are scarce. This is partly owing to difficulties in adequately quantifying the full range of possible rockfall volumes with sufficient accuracy and completeness, and at a scale that exceeds the influence of localised controls on rockfalls. This lack of insight restricts our ability to abstract patterns, to identify long-term changes in behaviour, and to assess how rock slopes respond to changes in both structural and environmental conditions, without resorting to a space for-time substitution. This thesis develops a workflow, from novel data collection to analysis, which is tailored to monitoring rockfall activity and the resulting cliff retreat continuously (in space), in 3D, and over large spatial scales $(> 10^4 m)$. The approach is tested by analysing rockfall activity and the resulting erosion recorded along 20.5 km of near-vertical coastal cliffs, in what is considered as the first multi-temporal detection of rockfalls at a regional-scale and in full 3D. The resulting data are then used to derive a quantitative appraisal of along-coast variations in the geometric properties of exposed discontinuity surfaces, to assess the extent to which these drive patterns in the size and shape of the rockfalls observed. High-resolution field monitoring is then undertaken along a subsection of the coastline $(> 10^2 m)$, where cliff lithology and structure are approximately uniform, in order to quantify spatial variations in wave loading characteristics and to relate these to local morphological conditions, which can act as a proxy for wave loading characteristics. The resulting rockfall inventory is analysed to identify the characteristics of rock slope change that only become apparent when assessed at this scale, placing bounds on data previously collected more locally $(< 10^2 m)$. The data show that spatial consistencies in the distribution of rockfall shape and volume through time approximately follow the geological setting of the coastline, but that variations in the strength of these consistencies are likely to be conditioned by differences in local processes and morphological controls between sites. These results are used to examine the relationships between key metrics of erosion, structural, and morphological controls, which ultimately permits the identification of areas where patterns of erosion are dominated by either intrinsic or extrinsic processes, or a mixture of both. Uniquely, the methodologies and data presented here mark a step-change in our ability to understand the competing effects of different processes in determining the magnitude and frequency of rockfall activity, and the resulting cliff erosion. The findings of this research hold considerable implications for our understanding of rockfalls, and for monitoring, modelling, and managing actively failing rock slopes

Spatio-temporal analysis of coastal sediment erosion in Cape Town through remote sensing and geoinformation science

Coastal erosion can be described as the landward or seaward propagation of coastlines. Coastal processes occur over various space and time scales, limiting in-situ approaches of monitoring change. As such it is imperative to take advantage of multisensory, multi-scale and multi-temporal modern spatial technologies for multi-dimensional coastline change monitoring. The research presented here intends to showcase the synergy amongst remote sensing techniques by showcasing the use of coastal indicators towards shoreline assessment over the Kommetjie and Milnerton areas along the Cape Town coastline. There has been little progress in coastal studies in the Western Cape that encompass the diverse and dynamic aspects of coastal environments and in particular, sediment movement. Cape Town, in particular; is socioeconomically diverse and spatially segregated, with heavy dependence on its 240km of coastline. It faces sea level rise intensified by real-estate development close to the high-water mark and on reclaimed land. Spectral indices and classification techniques are explored to accommodate the complex bio-optical properties of coastal zones. This allows for the segmentation of land and ocean components to extract shorelines from multispectral Landsat imagery for a long term (1991-2021) shoreline assessment. The DSAS tool used these extracted shorelines to quantify shoreline change and was able to determine an overall averaged erosional rate of 2.56m/yr. for Kommetjie and 2.35m/yr. for Milnerton. Beach elevation modelling was also included to evaluate short term (2016-2021) sediment volumetric changes by applying Differential Interferometry to Sentinel-1 SLC data and the Waterline method through a combination of Sentinel -1 GRD and tide gauge data. The accuracy, validation and correction of these elevation models was conducted at the pixel level by comparison to an in-field RTK GPS survey used to capture the current state of the beaches. The results depict a sediment deficit in Kommetjie whilst accretion is prevalent along the Milnerton coastline. Shoreline propagation and coastal erosion quantification leads to a better understanding of geomorphology, hydrodynamic and land use influences on coastlines. This further informs climate adaptation strategies, urban planning and can support further development of interactive coastal information systems

Science-based restoration monitoring of coastal habitats, Volume Two: Tools for monitoring coastal habitats

Healthy coastal habitats are not only important ecologically; they also support healthy coastal communities and improve the quality of people’s lives. Despite their many benefits and values, coastal habitats have been systematically modified, degraded, and destroyed throughout the United States and its protectorates beginning with European colonization in the 1600’s (Dahl 1990). As a result, many coastal habitats around the United States are in desperate need of restoration. The monitoring of restoration projects, the focus of this document, is necessary to ensure that restoration efforts are successful, to further the science, and to increase the efficiency of future restoration efforts