Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America (1994) [Entire]

Preface 7 Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9 Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19 Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31 What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39 Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45 The Transformation of Men into Masquerades and Indian Madras into Masquerade Cloth in Buguma, Nigeria Elisha P. Renne and Joanne B. Eicher 53 Discussant: Discussion of “Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa” Christopher B. Steiner 63 Foreign Contact in the Pacific Rim The Conversion of Chinese Court Robes into Japanese Festival Hangings Gloria Granz Gonick 67 Micronesian Textiles in Transition: The Woven Tol of Kosrae Ann Deegan and Ross Cordy 81 Bolong-Bolong and Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group of Balinese Textiles Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff and Monika Palm-Nadolny 93 Green Labels with Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons for Malaysia and Indonesia Frieda Sorber 105 Looking to the Past, Looking to the Future: Two Contemporary Approaches Continuity of Culture: A Reenactor’s Goal Elizabeth McClure 117 The Influence of Computer Technologies on Contemporary Woven Fiber Art Cynthia Schira 127 Featured Paper: Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence and Development of the Two Basic Lace Techniques Santina Levey and Milton Sonday 139 Panel: New Meanings, Borrowed Forms: Flux and Influx in the Textile Traditions of Flores, Indonesia Supplementary Weft on an “Ikat” Isle: The Weaving Communities of Northwestern Flores Roy W. Hamilton 147 The “Severed Shroud”: Local and Imported Textiles in the Mortuary Rites of an Indonesian People Penelope Graham 159 From the Ancestors or the Portuguese: Exotic Textiles in Flores and the Solor Archipelago (abstract only) Robyn Maxwell 167 Cloth as Marriage Gifts. Change in Exchange among the Lio of Flores Willemijn de Jong 169 Crossover: Motifs Transformed Byzantine Influences along the Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed Anna Maria Muthesius 181 The Pomegranate Pattern in Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins and Influence Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 193 Ottoman Silks and Their Legacy (abstract only) Diane Mott 205 The Assimilation of European Designs into Twentieth Century Indian Saris Linda Lynton 207 Continuity: Influence of the Marketplace Raphael’s Acts of the Apostles Tapestries: The Birth of the Tapestry Reproduction System Marjorie Durko Puryear 217 Market Effects on the Design and Construction of Carpets in the Milas Region of Southwestern Turkey, 1963–1993 Charlotte A. Jirousek 229 Traditional Techniques in New Settings Featured Paper: Charmingly Quaint and Still Modern: The Paradox of Colonial Revival Needlework in America, 1875–1940 Beverly Gordon 241 From Bohemian to Bourgeois: American Batik in the Early Twentieth Century Nicola J. Shilliam 253 New Twist on Shibori: How an Old Tradition Survives in the New World When Japanese Wooden Poles are Replaced by American PVC Pipes Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada 265 Video: Paj Ntaub: Textile Techniques of the Hmong (video script) Joyce Smith 271 Panel: Fashioning Identity: Appropriation and Creativity in Pre-Columbian and Contemporary Andean Cloth Anni Albers: Pre-Columbian Resonances, The Significance of Pre-Columbian Art in Her Textiles and Writings Virginia Gardner Troy 281 Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium and Measure of Cultural Identity Niki R. Clark and Amy Oakland Rodman 293 Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necropolis, and Ocucaje: Looking at Appropriation and Identity with Only Material Remains Ann Peters 305 Dressing the Part: Indigenous Costume as Political and Cultural Discourse in Peru Katharine E. Seibold 319 Ethnic Artists and the Appropriation of Fashion: Embroidery and Identity in the Colca Valley, Peru Blenda Femenias 331 (Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations in Dress and Society in Bolivia Elayne Zorn 343 Appendix: Roster of Participants at the 1994 Symposium 35

La moda come motore economico: innovazione di processo e prodotto, nuove strategie commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori / Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial strategies, consumer behavior

The study of the textile sector has always been central to economic history: from reconstructions of the dynamic growth in the medieval wool industry, to the rise of silk and light and mixed fabrics in the modern era, to the driving role of cotton in the industrialisation process. Although the dynamics of textile manufacturing are closely linked to the transformations of fashion, economic history has long neglected its role as a factor in economic change, treating it primarily as a kind of exogenous catalyst. This book makes a decisive contribution to the understanding of a fundamental transformation, the consequences of which are projected into contemporary society, but which matured in pre-industrial times: the advent of fashion

Abstracts

Abstracts A-

Textile Society of America- Abstracts and Biographies

TSA Abstracts and Biographies, September 2012

FROM ECONOMY TO EXCLUSIVITY: A HISTORY OF THE DEVORE TEXTILE 1880 TO 1940.

This thesis creates a contextual historical analysis of the development of chemical and devore manufactured textiles, relating methods of construction and intended use to existing textile design and social histories. The initial investigation of devore practice, whether used in association with woven, knitted and stitched textiles, includes a comprehensive examination of the historical textile patent record from 1840 to 1940, which formed an extensive part of the historiography. The aim of the research was to establish a credible narrative of woven devore, through its design and its manufacture. The methodology is interdisciplinary. In the course of my research and material evaluation I have considered evidence that is normally considered to be chemical and fibre analysis, design and art history review, dress textile and interior textile analysis, social and economic history and object analysis. This study in particular focuses on the peculiar dichotomy of woven devore: that is its growth as a manufacturing method of affordable textiles for the mass market contrasted with its most common deployment, as an ornate decorative textile. This study also challenges the conventional view that the aforementioned decorative woven devore textiles were developed in response to periods of economic depression

Tracing Patterns of Textiles in Ancient Java (8th–15th century)

Few attempts have been made to study the numerous textile depictions in Java from the eighth to fifteenth centuries, also known as the Hindu-Buddhist or the Ancient Javanese Period. This thesis seeks for the textiles that inspired these depictions and considers their techniques. It also traces the evolution of particular patterns in Java over time. To do so, I employ close art-historical analysis of works of art and draw supportive materials from archaeology, epigraphy and literature, as well as ethnography. After the introductory chapter, Chapters One and Two focus each on a different textile pattern: the connected circles and the overlapping circles patterns. These chapters follow the evolution of the patterns with particular interest to search for connections to current textile tradition in Indonesia. A similar approach of inquiry is applied in Chapter Three to a type of short sleeve jacket. Chapter Four investigates the depiction of weavers in Ancient Javanese textual and visual sources. This study of textile depictions will underscore the global connection between Java and the outside world, particularly China and India, from where many prototypes of the textile images originated. The study will also reveal that these images, in addition to being historical records, were also ornamentations, which the Javanese artists were adept at translating, decontextualizing, and re-contextualizing—as a whole or in part—into the local aesthetic and usage

How India Clothed the World

Cloth has always been the most global of all traded commodities. It is an illuminating example of the circulation of goods, skills, knowledge and capital across wide geographic spaces. South Asia has been central to the making of these global exchanges over time. This volume presents innovative research that explores the dynamic ways in which diverse textile production and trade regions generated the ’first globalization’. A series of experts connect this global commodity with the dramatic political and economic transformations that characterised the Indian Ocean in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Collectively, the essays transform our understanding of the contribution of South Asian cloth to the making of the modern world economy

Abstracts of Papers: Textile Society of America 16th Biennial Symposium

Abstracts of 175 papers: Monisha Ahmed — The Kashmir / Cashmere Shawl – Tradition and Transformation Philis Alvic — Eliza Calvert Hall, The Handwoven Coverlet Book, and Collecting Coverlet Patterns in Early Twentieth Century Appalachia Sarah Amarica — Global Threads: Histories of Labour and Cloth in Ann Hamilton and Ibrahim Mahama’s Installation Art Lynne Anderson — Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, and Text Jennifer Angus — Education through Co-Design Margaret Olugbemisola Areo and Adebowale Biodun Areo — Egungun: Concept, Content and the Dynamic Contextual Manifestations of Yoruba Ancestors Masquerade Alison Ariss — Wrapped in Wool: Coast Salish wool weaving, Vancouver, and unceded territory Joanne Arnett — The Best Dressed Nun in the Room: A Capsule Wardrobe Project Janice Arnold — FELT: The Fabric of Community: 3 Stories of Community Building with Traditional Feltmaking Nicole Asselin — Making and Unmaking: Reimagining Textile Waste Through Biodesign Mary Babcock — Notions from the Pacific: Embracing entanglement Suzi Ballenger and Charlotte Hamlin — Yours, mine and ours. Annin Barrett — Timberline Lodge Textiles: Creating a Sense of Place Kathryn Berenson — Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon and Bestes Kathryn Berenson — A Medieval Political Hanging Alice Bernardo — Reconnecting Local Resources Magali Berthon — Artisans Angkor: Reviving Cambodian Silk Crafts under French Patronage Vandana Bhandari — Namvali Textiles of Rajasthan: Culture and Counterculture Katharine Bissett-Johnson — Co-creating Craft; Australian Designers meet Artisans in India Ines Bogensperger — Hellenization and Cultural Change: Textiles in Documentary Papyri from Greco-Roman Egypt Darden Bradshaw — Contemporary Chilean Arpilleras: Writing Visual Culture Stephanie Bunn — Basketry and the ‘glocal’. Grass, straw, heather, rattan, - what’s in a ‘local’ Scottish basket? Jennifer Byram — Reawakening Choctaw Traditional Textiles Dominique Cardon — Ancient Colours for Today’s Colorists and Designers Robin Caudell — Common Sense & Pin Money: The Material Culture and Legacy of Lula Annie Butler 1909-2009 Debbie Chachra and Caitrin Lynch — Behind the Curtain: Textile Provenance as a New Frontier in Ethical Apparel Angela Clarke — Women’s Work: The Art and Ritual of Textile Production in the Italian Community of Vancouver Ruth Clifford — Balancing local tradition and global influences: design and business education for handloom weavers in India Sarah Clugage — The Tent-Dweller: Visual Markers of Migration in Art Sarah Confer — Dynamic Cultural Preservation in Peru: global influences and local impacts on traditional Andean weaving Geraldine Craig — Ia and Tcheu: locating a contemporary Hmong aesthetic Yasmine Dabbous — Protection and empowerment: The dual role textiles play among the Syrian refugee community in Sonja Dahl — Whitework: The Cloth and the Call to Action MJ Daines — Collecting and Constructing: Anni Albers\u27 migrant status and her interaction with indigenous textiles Jennifer Ling Datchuk and Anna Walker — The Personal is Political: Exploring Constructions of Identity in the Work of Jennifer Ling Datchuk Maggie D’Aversa — Resisting the Conversion of Silk Sutures to Synthetic Products in China. Is it cultural? Silvia Dolz — Fish in the desert - The North African textile tradition between indigenous identity and exogenous change in meaning Kelsie Doty — #NATURALDYE Penny Dransart — Mind’s Eye and Embodied Weaving: simultaneous contrasts of hue in Isluga textiles, northern Chile Eiluned Edwards — Handmade in India: re-branding Kachchhi block prints for global markets Eiluned Edwards — Samples from Sanganer: block prints commissioned for the Albert Hall Museum, Jaipur, India in 1899. Deborah Emmett — The embroidery artisans of the Kashmir Valley: cultural imports and exports from historical and contemporary perspectives. Åse Eriksen — The techniques of samitum, based on a reconstruction. — Joseph Fabish — Andamarcan Textiles Today: The Merging of Cultures Marianne Fairbanks — Weaving Lab: Public Production and Speculation Sarah Fee — The Origins of Chintz at the ROM: Collecting in the Name of Commerce Nancy Feldman — Shipibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists of the Amazon Culturally Engaged, Deep Local to Pan Global Maria João Ferreira — Textiles, Trade and Taste Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – The Global Trade in Australasian Wool from Crimea to Korea Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – Wool and Local Land Wars in a Global Context Cynthia Fowler — Irish Identity in a Global Market: The Embroidered Landscapes of Lily Yeats Judy Frater — Closing the Power Gap Through Internet Technology: The Artisan View Maria Wronska-Friend — Batik of Java: global inspiration Paula Frisch — A Quilt for Now: My Patchwork Exploration of Safety, Threat & the Decisions We Make Dai Fujiwara — Color Hunting Julia Galliker — Ancient Textiles/Modern Hands: ‘Crowdsourcing’ Experimental Archaeology Through the Spiral Textile Project (spiraltextile.com) Medha Bhatt Ganguly — From the “Economic” to the “Symbolic”: The Journey of Trade beads from the Markets of Ujiji to the Dowries in Bead-work of Saurashtra — Xia Gao — Interweaving-Making Place and Place Making Surabi Ghosh — Carrying Cloth: Materials, Migration and Mediated Identity Denise Green — Mapping Regalia in Hupacasath Territory Rachel Green — Loss and Renewal: Chaguar Clothing of the Wichí of Argentina Gaby Greenlee — A Virgin Martyr in Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case of Andean Ancestry and Memorial Rites Recalled on a Christian Body Jane Groufsky — A Local Motif; Use of kōwhaiwhai patterns in printed textiles Louise Hamby — Milingimbi Artists Engagement with Koskela Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa — Looking at Coast Salish Textiles: Threads, twist and fibre Michele Hardy and Joanne Schmidt — Radical Access: Textiles and Museums Peter Harris and Showkat Ahmad Khan — Kashmir shawl weaving demonstration Joan Hart — The Deep Origins of Kashmir Shawls, Their Broad Dissemination and Changing Meaning Peggy Hart — Satinet, 1790-1860 Jana Hawley — Local Trash, Global Treasures Erica Hess — Developing Critical Understanding Through Design Anna Heywood-Jones — Tinctorial Cartographies: Plant, Dye and Place Donna Ho — Pajamas as (Banned) Streetwear in Shanghai: Local meets Global Jen Hoover — Shepherds and Shawls: Making Place in the Western Himalayas Laurel Horton — Dresden Embroidery in Early Kentucky Counterpanes Sylvia Houghteling — Kalamkari and Qalamkār-e Fārsī: A Continuous History of Cloth Connections between India and Iran I-Fen Huang — Local Crafts, World Exposition, and the Transformation of Embroidery in Early Twentieth Century China Jennifer Huang — Weaving Identities: Researching Atayal Textiles Barb Hunt — “Buttons all galore” – mother-of-pearl buttons as communication system Catherine Hunter — Indian Basketry in Yosemite Valley, 19th - 20th Century: Gertrude \u27Cosie\u27 Hutchings Mills, Tourists, and the National Park Service WhiteFeather Hunter — Biomateria; Biotextile Craft WhiteFeather Hunter — blóm + blóð Adil Iqbal — Cultivating Crafts: Weaving together Scottish and Pakistani narratives Adil Iqbal — Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave) André Jackson — Self Identification Through Intersectionality: Turning Inward to Center, Normalize and Validate My Existence Carol James — Sprang Bonnets from Late Antique Egypt: Producer Knowledge and Exchange Through Experimental Reconstruction Donald Clay Johnson — Lucy Truman Aldrich, rebel collector of textiles Jess Jones — Lost Weavings of Atlanta: Mapping Historic Textile Works, Remnants, and Removals in Atlanta GA Lakshmi Kadambi — The Lambani Skirt Etsuko KageyamaNewly identified Iranian motif of silk textiles in Shōsōin storehouse in Japan Noelle Kahanu and Claire Regnault — He Makana Aloha: Co-curating memory, legacy and indigenous identity through the iconic Aloha Shirt Barbara Kahl — Using Invasive Species for Fiber and Dyeing: Controlling Weeds and Controlling Materials Costs for Artisans Elizabeth Kalbfleisch — Celebration or Craftsploitation? Cultural Diplomacy, Marketing and Coast Salish Knitting Jasleen Kandhari — The Kenyan Kanga Textile: Expressions of Swahili Identity and Cross Cultural Influences from India Miwa Kanetani and Ayami Nakatani — Unweaving textiles, disentangling ropes: Exploration of “lineware” as an analytical category Anjali Karolia and Jyoti Navlani — Balotra: the transforming journey for urban demands Anna Rose Keefe — Re-fashioning Newport: Reuse of Textiles during the Gilded Age Minjee Kim — Korean Patchwork Textiles: From Boudoir Craft to Global Collection Desiree Koslin — Pathfinding Restart: crossing tradition, activism and contemporaneity in Sami Art Sumru Krody — Occam’s Razor: Origins of a Classical Turkish Carpet Design Ashley Kubley — Lost Arts Found: Henequen Artisanship of the Modern Maya Ashley Kubley — Coarse Craft: An Investigation into the Re-emergence of Traditional Mayan Fiber Craftsmanship and Neo-Artisanal Culture in the Post-industrial Landscape of Yucatan Sabena Kull — A Seventeenth-century South American Hanging and Valance: Embroidering Imperial Power and Local Identity in Colonial Peru Eleanor Laughlin — The Beata’s Rebozo: A Garment of Religious Devotion and Freedom Margaret Leininger — India to Appalachia: How Cottage Industries Preserve Textile Heritage Beverly Lemire — Native American Embroidered Goods in the 19th-Century British Empire: Fashioning New Meanings Precious Lovell — Reinterpreting European Cloth Through Afro-Brazilian Culture Shannon Ludington — Embroidering Paradise: Suzanis As a Place of Creative Agency and Acculturation For Uzbek Women in 19th Century Bukhara Kristin Scheel — The meaning and purpose of ancient designs in today’s fashion designs – appropriation and power? Suzanne MacAulay — Hapsburg Eagles and Rattlesnakes: Localizing Embroidery Motifs on the Spanish Colonial Frontier Zone Dakota Mace — Woven Juxtaposition: Discourse on The Appropriation of Native American Design & Symbolism Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass\u27s Parking Lot Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass\u27s Parking Lot: Yarn as Commemorative Tool Fighting Urban Renewal Gary Markle — Wear/Where Do We Belong? Ivana Markova — Silybum Marianum Seed Fibers: A Comparison Analysis of Morphological Characteristics Paula Matthusen and Olivia Valentine — between systems and grounds: a generative, sonic textile construction and installation system Nina Maturu — Sustaining Weaver’s Craft and Livelihoods in Andhra Pradesh, India Tara Mayer — Displaced Objects of Empire in the Museum of Vancouver: The 1930s Detritus of Imperial Travel Louise Mitchell — Mary Jane Hannaford (1840- 1930) and her applique quilts Nazanin Hedayat Munroe — Wrapped Up: Talismanic Garments in Early Modern Islamic Culture Addison Nace — Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías or the Art of the Textile in Chiapas, Mexico Vanessa Nicholas — Recovering Canadian Ecology in a Quilt of Maple Leaves Gabriela Nirino — Blue is Never Just a Color Sara Oka — No Sweat Keiko Okamoto — The Modern Development of Kyoto Textiles - The Processes and Designs of Hand-Painted Yūzen Dyeing Between 1950 and the Present Sumiyo Okumura — Silk Velvets Identified as Byzantine: Were Silk Velvets Woven under the Byzantine Empire? Emily Pascoe — Local Wear Susan Pavel — du\u27kWXaXa\u27?t3w3l Sacred Change for Each Other Susan Pavel — Gifts from The Creator Jessica Payne — Shetland Lace Knitting: transformation through relocation Elena Phipps — Weaving Brilliance in Bolivian Aymara Textile Traditions Barbara Setsu Pickett — Rahul Jain\u27s Velvet Drawloom: An Example of Deep Local to Pan Global — Janet Pollock — Ties that Bind: Finding Meaning in the Making of Sacred Textiles María Dávila and Eduardo Portillo — From Silk to Venezuelan fibers Jane Przybysz — Place-Based Post-WWII Polish Textiles Sarah Quinton — Home and Away: Seeing through textiles as a curatorial practice Bibiana Ramonda — Carpets in Cordoba, Argentina. Between cross-culturalization and a local expression Anna Richard and Roxane Shaughnessy — The Untold Story of Inuit Printed Fabric Experiments from Cape Dorset, Nunavut, Canada Vivienne Richmond — Stitching empire, shaping minds: the colonial dissemination of British needlework instruction Nancy Rosoff — Rayed Head Imagery on Nasca, Sihuas, and Pucara Textiles during the Early Intermediate Period Annie Ross — Indigenous Sustainable Technologies and Ecosystems: Weave it Back Together Kathryn RoussoContaining Tradition, Embracing Change: Weaving Together Plant Materials in northern Latin America. Ann Pollard Rowe — The Cuzco Woman\u27s Shawl MacKenzie Moon Ryan — Swahili Coastal Chic: Kanga Cloth in Photograph and Swatch ca. 1900 Stephanie Sabo — Conflict Zones: Cultural Exchange and Labor Power in the Production of Contemporary Art Textile Works Yara Saegh and Anne Bissonette — The Sultan’s Carpet: An Investigation of an Ottoman Cairene Textile in the Collection of the Nickle Galleries Ann Salmonson — The Master’s Inheritance: Passing On Wuhan Han Embroidery Rajarshi Sangupta — An Artisanal History of Kalam? Joan Saverino — Ozaturu: A Calabrian Bed Covering, Local Embodiment, and Women’s Expressivity Alice Scherer — From Basket Making to Beadworking: Loose-Warp Woven Beadwork of the Tlingit, Wasco, and Pit River Indians Vera Sheehan — N’Bamakwana Lasawaw8ganek N’Babajigwezijik, “We Wear the Clothing of Our Ancestors” Angela Sheng — The Chinese Contribution to the Samitum? Revisiting the so-called “Zandaniji” and Other Finds in Central Asia and China, 5th - 10th Century Rachel Silberstein — Wearing Other People’s Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Seller in Turn of the Century China Juliana Silva — Living Organisms for Living Spaces Maya Stanfield-MazziThe Passion Cloths of Chachapoyas, Peru: Eternal Life Expressed in a Local Idiom Lila Stone — The Radical Fiber Arts Practices of The Yarn Mission: A Case Study Amy Swanson — Kyrgyzstan\u27s \u27Deep Local\u27 Fiber and Textile Traditions at a Crossroads Lee Talbot — Embroidery and the Opening of Korea in the Late 19th /Early 20th Century — Dr. Angharad Thomas — Sanquhar gloves: an exemplification of Deep Local to Pan Global? Diana Thomas — The Wagga Quilt in History and Fiction Kelly Thompson — Weaving a Turn: translating data, material and space. Natasha Thoreson — Revealing a New Tradition: Reevaluating British Printed Textiles of the 1970s Cara Tremain — Amid Bodies and Spaces: Textiles in the Ancient Maya World Virginia Gardner Troy — Promoting American Textiles Abroad at Midcentury Kendra Van CleaveThe Lévite Dress: Untangling the Cultural Influences of Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Lisa VandenBerghe — The “Deep Local” of Domestic Needlework in Early Modern England Kathleen Vaughan — The Urban River as Entity and Imaginary: Textile mapping and storytelling of the St. Lawrence shoreline at Pointe-St-Charles Marianne Vedeler — The Social Fabric of Silk in the Age of the Vikings Carol Ventura — Tapestry Crochet in the Americas, Europe, Africa, and the Middle East: Tradition and Innovation Mercy Wanduara — Looking at the Past and Current Status of Kenya’s textiles and clothing Wendy Weiss — Mashru Redux: from the Calico Museum in Ahmedabad to a Loom in the Great Plains Eileen Wheeler — Manipulating the Threads of Culture: Contemporary Shibori Artist Yvonne Wakabayashi Liz Williamson — Local colour: the search for a plant dye industry in Australia Arielle Winnik — Understanding Clothing in Heaven: Local Maronite Burial Practices in the 13th century CE Jacqueline Witkowski — Threading together politics and poetics in Cecilia Vicuña’s fibre art Stephanie Wood — Mesoamerican (Text)iles: Persistence of Indigenous Iconography in Women’s Weaving Masako Yoshida — The Global Influence of China and Europe on Local Japanese Tapestries from the 19th to early 20th Centuries Callen Zimmerman — Getting Located: Queer Semiotics in Dres