Identification of specific demands on Feed in Dutch Organic Aquaculture

The evaluation of specific demands for organic feed focussed on feed demands for four fish species which can be cultured in Recirculation Aquaculture Systems (RAS), tilapia, African Catfish, shrimp and turbot. The evaluation of the various feed formulations indicates that there are several ingredients, which are common for the four species, and will therefore be used for further elaboration on the organic availability. These feed ingredients, are: fishmeal and oil, corn meal, wheat meal, blood meal, vitamin mix, mineral mix, and antioxidants. Besides the evaluation of the feed ingredients an inventory was made on the demands set by three key organic standards and legislation documents; European legislation (in prep), IFOAM and Naturland. A draft consensus standard containing a synthesis of all demands has been described. The implication of the demands, and the possibilities and bottlenecks for organic feed production were evaluated for the selected feed ingredients. It was concluded that organic feed production for RAS can meet the general criteria set for feed, on GMO material and organic composition. However, for the production of organic feed, a bottleneck will be the necessary requirement of synthetic amino acids for health improvement. The lack of these amino acids in organic feed can result in potential disadvantage for animal needs. This raw material restrictions will most likely also result in the lack of possibilities for fine tuning the feed for animal need

Innovation in cosmetics - innovative makeup products: efficacy and safety

Trabalho Final de Mestrado Integrado, Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia, 2017Unlike other industries that remain largely constant, the Cosmetics Industry is continuously changing. New products are created for hair, skin, makeup and personal care on a regular basis in order to meet the consumers’ needs and expectations. Cosmetic products have a lot to live up to these days, not only do they have to be innovative but also be effective and safe for the consumers and the environment. This dissertation presents the several types of innovation within the makeup branch of the cosmetics industry. Innovation can be done by adding new or improved ingredients to a formulation, making it different because of its properties; by changing the formulation itself, creating a product different from every other on the market, safer and easier to apply or use; by innovating the packaging, which is also becoming a huge trend because consumers are more demanding of unique, unusual and original packages that match their personality. Technology also takes a big part in the cosmetics industry, helping to develop products closer to the consumer needs and creating new connections and experiences between consumers and products. On a different level, cosmetics companies’ mentalities are also changing. Not only consumers are becoming more responsible and aware about environmental, ethical and social issues but they demand for the industry to share their concerns and evolve in a more conscious way. Innovation, at this pace, leads to the fast growth of the cosmetics industry. Investing in the development of a new product leads to a more complete, and varied market that provides a bigger, more effective and safer selection of products available to better suit the fast-changing consumer needs.Contrariamente a outras industrias que se mantem relativamente constantes, a industria cosmética está em constante mudança e renovação. Novos produtos cosméticos são constantemente introduzidos no mercado de forma a satisfazer as necessidades e as espectativas, cada vez mais exigentes e desafiantes, dos consumidores, tornando-o assim um dos mercados mais competitivo e com maior ritmo de inovação. Os produtos cosméticos e em particular o sector da maquilhagem é desafiado, cada vez mais, de forma a desenvolver produtos que para além de eficazes, sejam também seguros para os consumidores e para o ambiente, bem como desenvolvidos e produzidos em conformidade com os valores dos consumidores e da sociedade atual. Existem diversas formas de inovar no sector da cosmética, sendo uma delas ao nível dos ingredientes que constituem a formulação. Desta forma, podem ser adicionados ingrediente novos, nunca usados em contexto cosmético, e cujas propriedades revolucionam o método de atuação do produto; ou simplesmente a combinação de diversos ingredientes nunca antes conjugados que aliados conferem à formulação novas ou modificadas propriedades, consideradas disruptivas e superiores em relação aos restantes produtos disponíveis no mercado. Outra forma de inovar consiste em alterar o próprio tipo de formulação de forma a criar um produto completamente diferente. A aplicação de um tipo de formulação num contexto ou produto diferente do que é comum, com as devidas adaptações às novas funções e local de aplicação, é uma forma de inovação a este nível. Ao nível da embalagem do produto a inovação, criatividade e diferenciação tem ganho grande relevância entre os consumidores. A forma como o produto é armazenado e a sua embalagem, transmitem muito mais do que apenas integridade e proteção, criam também um posicionamento e transmitem uma mensagem, influenciado a forma como o produto é percecionado e desenvolvendo uma imagem de marca facilmente reconhecida pelos consumidores. A tecnologia é parte intrínseca da vida em sociedade e não é exceção no que concerne o desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos. Não só torna o processo de investigação, fabrico e armazenagem mais rápido e eficiente como contribui para a produção de produtos cada vez mais eficazes, seguros e adaptados às necessidades mais especificas dos consumidores. Relativamente à mentalidade e aos valores da industria cosmética e das suas marcas constituintes, estes têm também sofrido alterações de forma a inovar e se adaptarem às regras de ética, sustentabilidade ecológica e responsabilidade social que vigoram na sociedade atual. As novas gerações de consumidores são cada vez mais responsáveis e conscientes acerca de questões ambientais, éticas e sociais, exigindo que a indústria compartilhe destas mesmas preocupações e altere os seus valores de forma a que estes se harmonizarem com os seus. Desta forma, o ritmo de inovação da industria cosmética leva ao seu rápido crescimento e desenvolvimento, tornando-a assim uma das mais dinâmicas e inovadoras do mercado. Cada novo produto desenvolvido ou aperfeiçoado contribui para um mercado mais completo e diversificado que oferece uma maior seleção de produtos mais eficazes, seguros e em maior conformidade com as necessidades e valores dos consumidores, contribuindo assim para a harmonização da relação industria – produto – consumidor

The paradigm of sustainability in the cosmetics industry

Trabalho Final de Mestrado Integrado, Ciências Farmacêuticas, 2021, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia.Nos últimos anos, a sustentabilidade tornou-se um tópico de extrema importância no quotidiano da população, e tem impactado significativamente todas as indústrias, incluindo a indústria cosmética. Hoje em dia os consumidores são pessoas mais informadas que procuram diariamente alterativas mais amigas do ambiente de forma a alcançar um estilo de vida cada vez mais saudável. Na indústria cosmética, a questão da sustentabilidade pode ser aplicada em qualquer fase do ciclo de vida de um produto e as empresas têm vindo a implementar diversas estratégias que contribuam para a sustentabilidade do setor. Contudo, a fase da seleção dos ingredientes merece um ênfase especial e é também das áreas que carece de maior investigação. Perceber a função de cada ingrediente na formulação e procurar alternativas mais sustentáveis, maioritariamente naturais/orgânicas para ingredientes não sustentáveis tem sido uma prioridade para muitas empresas. No entanto, primeiramente é necessário clarificar os conceitos associados – natural, orgânico e sustentável – de forma que a comunicação dos mesmos possa ser feita de uma forma eficaz, segura e transparente, de acordo com a regulamentação dos produtos cosméticos em vigor. Paralelamente, a União Europeia estabeleceu metas de sustentabilidade, sendo uma das suas prioridades o desenvolvimento de um Pacto Ecológico Europeu, ambicionando transformar a Europa no primeiro continente com impacto neutro no clima até 2050. Este Pacto prevê um Plano de Ação para impulsionar a utilização eficiente dos recursos através da transição para uma economia limpa e circular, restaurando a biodiversidade e reduzindo a poluição, com iniciativas mais concretas ao nível dos plásticos e embalagens, substâncias químicas potencialmente nocivas para a saúde humana e/ou para o planeta e gestão e redução de resíduos. Conjuntamente a estes esforços e ao desenvolvimento que tem surgido, algumas tendências do mercado, tais como a clean beauty (beleza limpa), adicionam a esta equação a perceção e as expectativas do consumidor. Contudo, é importante nunca dissociar a segurança baseada na evidência científica, a eficácia, mas também a transparência, de forma a garantir o bem-estar da população e preservar a saúde humana, embora a falta de certificações e a falta de comunicação correta continuem a ser fatores limitantes neste tópico. Esta monografia visa explorar, numa primeira parte, as iniciativas, alinhadas com as metas da UE, que têm vindo a ser implementadas ao longo do ciclo de vida do produto cosmético e as formulações verdes, com especial destaque para os ingredientes e as certificações/regulamentações existentes. Numa segunda parte, são analisadas quatro marcas de produtos cosméticos representativas no mercado de Farmácia Comunitária em Portugal - Klorane, A-Derma, Caudalie e Apivita – bem como um produto exemplificativo de cada uma e que tenha sido desenvolvido segundo estas novas tendências tanto a nível de compromisso social e corporativo da marca, como a nível de ingredientes, embalagem e até ao nível da comunicação utilizada. Numa parte final, são fornecidas algumas recomendações e visões prospetivas, concluindo quais as áreas que merecem maior investigação bem como as que ainda carecem de alguma regulamentação, na premissa de que as características-chave de um produto de forma a garantir a sua segurança e eficácia devem assentar na a) Redução ao máximo das substâncias nocivas para o ser humano e para o planeta; b) Minimização do impacto ambiental; c) Harmonização dos critérios de sustentabilidade ao longo de todo seu ciclo de vida; d) Transparência ao longo do ciclo de vida do produto de forma a garantir a confiança do consumir.In recent years, sustainability became an important topic in people’s daily lives, and it has significantly impacted all industries, including cosmetics industry. Nowadays, customers are more informed, looking for more sustainable and environmentally friendly alternatives and are actively searching for a healthier lifestyle. In the cosmetics industry, sustainability issues exist in all phases of a product’s life cycle, and companies have deployed and implemented several strategies that contribute to improve the sector’s sustainability. However, a special emphasis must be devoted to the phase of sourcing/origin: the selection of ingredients. Understanding the role of each ingredient and taking in account sustainable ingredients (mainly natural/organic) to substitute unsustainable ones is a priority for some cosmetics brands, but firstly, it’s important to clarify the difference between these concepts so that industries can communicate efficiently, truthfully and transparently, according to the cosmetics regulations. On the other hand, EU has set goals around sustainability, being the development of a European Green Deal one of its priorities, striving to be the first climate-neutral continent by 2050. This Action Plan includes boosting the efficient use of resources by moving to a clean, circular economy, restoring biodiversity and cutting pollution, with initiatives mainly related to plastics, chemical substances, packaging and waste. Alongside with this development, market trends such as clean beauty emerges encompassing the consumer's perception. However, it's of paramount importance not to overlook the need for science-based safety, effectiveness but also transparency always complying with regulation, in order to ensure human well-being, although the lack of certification and the scarcity of accurate communication are still a limitation. This review aims at exploring, in the first part, the initiatives that have already been implemented throughout product’s life cycle, aligned with EU goals, and Green formulations with special focus on possible new ingredients and existing certifications. In a second part, four cosmetics brands representative of the Pharmacy market are analyzed as well as four examples of products which claim to be committed to sustainability. Conclusions and recommendations are issued, in order to understand which topics still deserve our greatest attention, and prospective views are provided

The use of high performance anion exchange chromatography for the detection of counterfeit pharmaceutical products using the excipient content as a marker

The aim of the investigation described here was to examine the differences between genuine and counterfeit pharmaceutical products through the development of an analytical method capable of rigorously identifying the sugar-based excipients. High Performance Anion Exchange Chromatography, coupled to Pulsed Amperometric Detection (HPAEC-PAD), supported by Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS), provided a method for the analysis of the carbohydrate based excipients. The analytical method was able to discriminate between the substitution patterns of a number of monosaccharides derived from commonly used excipients and these were compared for both genuine and counterfeit sildenafil citrate based products. The aim of the project was accomplished: the HPAEC-method was employed to analyse a counterfeit pharmaceutical ‘Herbal Viagra’

Development of a range of products for acne treatment on sensitive skin and preliminary design of its manufacturing process

Treballs Finals de Grau d'Enginyeria Química, Facultat de Química, Universitat de Barcelona, Curs: 2021-2022, Tutora: M. Esther SantamaríaIn this day and age, consumer needs are increasingly individualised, diverse and changing. Due to this fact, product development aims to satisfy these needs by transforming them into a commercial product available on the market. Specifically, skin care products are of great relevance in today's society and therefore can be said to have had a major impact on the cosmetics industry. They are considered to be part of the daily routine of a large part of the population as, in addition to helping to achieve healthier skin, they also improve self-esteem. In relation to this fact, one of the most frequent dermatological conditions which can have a negative impact on self-esteem, is acne. It is worth mentioning that as a result of the pandemic caused by the COVID-19 virus and the continued use of face masks, an increase and/or worsening of acne has been observed. As a result, there is a greater need for products for the treatment of this skin disease. On the other hand, its treatment can be complex specially in people with sensitive skin prone to inflammation and redness. Therefore, the present work is based on the development of a range of formulated products for the treatment of acne on sensitive skin. In particular, it includes a facial cleansing gel and a night cream to help control the appearance of pimples and reduce scarring caused by acne. The formulation of both cosmetics consists of O/W emulsions, although the cleansing gel is a microemulsion and the night cream is a macroemulsion. In addition, it should be noted that the active acne treatment ingredients used in the formulations are: salicylic acid, tea tree oil and niacinamide. The development process includes the following stages: product conceptualisation, quality criteria, formulation and preliminary design of the manufacturing process for an annual production of 40,000 kg/year for the cleansing gel and 10,000 kg/year for the cream

Evaluation of Ecolabelling Criteria Using Life Cycle Assessment

abstract: Ecolabels are the main driving force of consumer knowledge in the realm of sustainable product purchasing. While ecolabels strive to improve consumer's purchasing decisions, they have overwhelmed the market, leaving consumers confused and distrustful of what each label means. This study attempts to validate and understand environmental concerns commonly found in ecolabel criteria and the implications they have within the life cycle of a product. A life cycle assessment (LCA) case study of cosmetic products is used in comparison with current ecolabel program criteria to assess whether or not ecolabels are effectively driving environmental improvements in high impact areas throughout the life cycle of a product. Focus is placed on determining the general issues addressed by ecolabelling criteria and how these issues relate to hotspots derived through a practiced scientific methodology. Through this analysis, it was determined that a majority the top performing supply chain environmental impacts are covered, in some fashion, within ecolabelling criteria, but some, such as agricultural land occupation, are covered to a lesser extent or not at all. Additional criteria are suggested to fill the gaps found in ecolabelling programs and better address the environmental impacts most pertinent to the supply chain. Ecolabels have also been found to have a broader coverage then what can currently be addressed using LCA. The results of this analysis have led to a set of recommendations for furthering the integration between ecolabels and life cycle tools.Dissertation/ThesisM.S. Civil and Environmental Engineering 201

An Evaluation of Ecolabels, Standards & Certifications in the Chemical Industry

In recent years, ecolabels, standards and certifications (ESCs) have been increasingly utilized to signal a product’s environmental and socially responsible profile, both in the business-to-business and business-to-consumer spheres. The growing demand for this sustainability information from consumers, retailers, and governments has put pressure on the suppliers to provide qualitative and quantitative data on products’ environmental footprint. A multi-national chemical company and the University of Michigan School of Natural Resources team have collaborated to conduct this master’s project, An Evaluation of Ecolabels, Standards & Certifications in the Chemical Industry. The purpose of this project is to provide a strategy for multinational chemical companies to better engage their customers in the marketplace in a way that supports the transfer of sustainability information throughout the value chain. The student team engaged with stakeholders in sustainability reporting, studied a number of ecolabel schemes, and developed a survey addressing members of the home and personal care industry to learn from their experience and priorities. Results of the survey indicate that home and personal care manufacturers expect to double the percentage of their products labeled with an ESC in the next five years. Manufacturers use ESCs on finished products to differentiate, and to increase market penetration and perception of product quality. The main barriers to this use of ESCs are the lack of accredited raw materials and supplier information. The R&D department is most often the agent pursuing ingredients labeled with an ESC and the most important decision-making factors influencing procurement are unsurprisingly, performance and price. Suppliers of ingredients to home and personal care manufacturers can use valuable ESCs as a short-term measure to communicate the ingredient sustainability information, but given the ongoing development of the ESC marketplace, businesses throughout the value chain should continue to collaborate with stakeholders and watch for trends.Master of ScienceNatural Resources and EnvironmentUniversity of Michiganhttp://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/2027.42/90877/1/An_Evaluation_of_Ecolabels,_Standards_and_Certifications_in_the_Chemical_Industry[1].pd

Beauty Shouldn’t Cause Pain: A Makeover Proposal for the FDA’s Cosmetics Regulation

The American cosmetics industry is not required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to conduct pre-market safety assessments of cosmetics. The FDA only reviews personal care products when people voluntarily report problems. Further, companies continue to test animals for cosmetics, despite the FDA’s recommendation that manufacturers seek more humane and accurate testing. Although the FDA does not require animal testing for product safety or premarket approval, the United States is one of the largest users of laboratory animals for product testing. There are two pending pieces of legislation, which if passed would be the first acts of cosmetic regulation in over eighty-years: the Safe Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Act (Safe Cosmetics Act) and the Personal Care Products Safety Act (Personal Care Act). This note discusses the reasons the bills should pass and examines the FDA’s current personal care product regulatory scheme. Section II examines recent events in the media, which brought awareness to the current regulatory system’s inadequacies and concerning chemicals. Section III details the current federal legislation governing American cosmetics and proposed legislation. Section IV discusses the European Union’s and California’s stronger approach to cosmetic regulation. Section V proposes adding an animal testing ban and legal definitions for cosmetic terms to pending legislation. Section VI discusses consumer education as a temporary alternative until stronger legislation is passed