The role of morphology and wave-current interaction at tidal inlets : an idealized modeling analysis

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2014. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 119 (2014): 8818–8837, doi:10.1002/2014JC010191.The outflowing currents from tidal inlets are influenced both by the morphology of the ebb-tide shoal and interaction with incident surface gravity waves. Likewise, the propagation and breaking of incident waves are affected by the morphology and the strength and structure of the outflowing current. The 3-D Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system is applied to numerically analyze the interaction between currents, waves, and bathymetry in idealized inlet configurations. The bathymetry is found to be a dominant controlling variable. In the absence of an ebb shoal and with weak wave forcing, a narrow outflow jet extends seaward with little lateral spreading. The presence of an ebb-tide shoal produces significant pressure gradients in the region of the outflow, resulting in enhanced lateral spreading of the jet. Incident waves cause lateral spreading and limit the seaward extent of the jet, due both to conversion of wave momentum flux and enhanced bottom friction. The interaction between the vorticity of the outflow jet and the wave stokes drift is also an important driving force for the lateral spreading of the plume. For weak outflows, the outflow jet is actually enhanced by strong waves when there is a channel across the bar, due to the “return current” effect. For both strong and weak outflows, waves increase the alongshore transport in both directions from the inlet due to the wave-induced setup over the ebb shoal. Wave breaking is more influenced by the topography of the ebb shoal than by wave-current interaction, although strong outflows show intensified breaking at the head of the main channel.We are grateful to the Career Training Interexchange program that facilitated the training period of Maitane Olabarrieta within the USGS. Maitane Olabarrieta also acknowledges funding from the “Cantabria Campus International Augusto Gonzalez Linares Program.”WRG was supported by ONR grant N00014-13-1–0368.2015-06-2

Measurements and Three-Dimensional Modeling of Nearshore Circulation on a South Carolina Beach

A numerical modeling system for simulating nearshore surf zone conditions and tidal processes is presented and evaluated with in situ data. The modeling system is comprised of the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS v 3.0), a three-dimensional numerical ocean model, coupled with Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN), a spectral wave propagation model. The system has been modified with a new vertical distribution of radiation stress terms for applications in very shallow waters. The model performance is evaluated by comparing simulations to hydrodynamic data (wave height, direction, longshore and cross-shore currents) collected in the surf zone in northern South Carolina, U.S. Model results have been analyzed to discern the variability in three-dimensional and depth-averaged cross-shore and longshore velocities due to changing wave height, wave direction and tidal stage. Overall, the model shows good correlation to observed data and it is found to be capable of reproducing typical flow patterns observed due to depth-induced wave breaking. An implication for sediment transport applications on beaches with tidal variability is also discussed

Implementation of the vortex force formalism in the coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport (COAWST) modeling system for inner shelf and surf zone applications

Author Posting. © The Author(s), 2012. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here by permission of Elsevier B.V. for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Ocean Modelling 47 (2012): 65-95, doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2012.01.003.The coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport modeling system (COAWST) enables simulations that integrate oceanic, atmospheric, wave and morphological processes in the coastal ocean. Within the modeling system, the three-dimensional ocean circulation module (ROMS) is coupled with the wave generation and propagation model (SWAN) to allow full integration of the effect of waves on circulation and vice versa. The existing wave-current coupling component utilizes a depth dependent radiation stress approach. In here we present a new approach that uses the vortex force formalism. The formulation adopted and the various parameterizations used in the model as well as their numerical implementation are presented in detail. The performance of the new system is examined through the presentation of four test cases. These include obliquely incident waves on a synthetic planar beach and a natural barred beach (DUCK’ 94); normal incident waves on a nearshore barred morphology with rip channels; and wave-induced mean flows outside the surf zone at the Martha’s Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO). Model results from the planar beach case show good agreement with depth-averaged analytical solutions and with theoretical flow structures. Simulation results for the DUCK’ 94 experiment agree closely with measured profiles of cross-shore and longshore velocity data from Garcez-Faria et al. (1998, 2000). Diagnostic simulations showed that the nonlinear processes of wave roller generation and wave-induced mixing are important for the accurate simulation of surf zone flows. It is further recommended that a more realistic approach for determining the contribution of wave rollers and breaking induced turbulent mixing can be formulated using non-dimensional parameters which are functions of local wave parameters and the beach slope. Dominant terms in the cross-shore momentum balance are found to be the quasi-static pressure gradient and breaking acceleration. In the alongshore direction, bottom stress, breaking acceleration, horizontal advection and horizontal vortex forces dominate the momentum balance. The simulation results for the bar / rip channel morphology case clearly show the ability of the modeling system to reproduce horizontal and vertical circulation patterns similar to those found in laboratory studies and to numerical simulations using the radiation stress representation. The vortex force term is found to be more important at locations where strong flow vorticity interacts with the wave-induced Stokes flow field. Outside the surf zone, the three-dimensional model simulations of wave-induced flows for non- breaking waves closely agree with flow observations from MVCO, with the vertical structure of the simulated flow varying as a function of the vertical viscosity as demonstrated by Lentz et al. (2008).The first two authors were supported by a NOAA/IOOS Grant (Integration of Coastal Observations and Assets in the Carolinas in Support of Regional Coastal Ocean Observation System Development in the Southeast Atlantic) and a cooperative agreement between U.S. Geological Survey and University of South Carolina as part of the Carolinas Coastal Change Processes Project. Also G. Voulgaris was partially supported by the National Science Foundation (Awards: OCE-0451989 and OCE-0535893)

Alongshore momentum balance analysis on a cuspate foreland

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 118 (2013): 5280–5295, doi:10.1002/jgrc.20358.Nearshore measurements of waves and currents off Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, U.S.A, are used to investigate depth-averaged subtidal circulation and alongshore momentum balances in the surf and inner shelf region around a cuspate foreland. Data were collected on both sides of the cape representing shorefaces with contrasting shoreline orientation (north-south vs. northwest-southeast) subjected to the same wind forcing. In the nearshore, the subtidal flow is aligned with the local coastline orientation while at the cape point the flow is along the existing submerged shoal, suggesting that cape associated shoals may act as an extension of the coastline. Alongshore momentum balance analysis incorporating wave-current interaction by including vortex and Stokes-Coriolis forces reveals that in deep waters surface and bottom stress are almost in balance. In shallower waters, the balance is complex as nonlinear advection and vortex force become important. Furthermore, linearized momentum balance analysis suggests that the vortex force can be of the same order as wind and wave forcing. Farther southwest of Cape Hatteras point, wind and wave forcing alone fail to fully explain subtidal flow variability and it is shown that alongshore pressure gradient as a response to the wind forcing can close the momentum balance. Adjacent tide gauge data suggest that the magnitude of pressure gradient depends on the relative orientation of local coastline to the wind vector, and in a depth-averaged sense the pressure gradient generation due to change in coastline orientation even at km length scale is analogous to the effect of alongshore variable winds on a straight coastline.The experimental work was funded by the Carolinas Coastal Processes Project, a cooperative study supported by the US Geological Survey. Additional support during data analysis and preparation of this manuscript was provided by the National Science Foundation (award: OCE-1132130).2014-04-1

Shelf Cross-Shore Flows under Storm-driven Conditions: Role of Stratification, Shoreline Orientation, and Bathymetry.

Numerical simulations are used to study the response of Long Bay, SC (USA), a typical coastal embayment with curved coastline located on the South Atlantic Bight, to realistic, climatologically defined, synoptic storm forcing. Synoptic storms, consisting of cold and warm 25 fronts as well as tropical storms, are used as forcing under both mixed and stratified initial conditions. The analysis focuses on the development of cross-shore shelf circulation and the relative contributions of regionally defined cross-shore winds and alongshore bathymetric variation. The simulation results show that, under stratified conditions, the regionally defined offshore directed wind component promotes upwelling during the developing stage of cold front and enhances mixing during the decaying stage. No significant effect is found for warm front and tropical storm forcing conditions. Net cross-shore transports are induced at the southern and northern sides of the embayment that have opposing signs. Besides the surface and bottom Ekman transports, geostrophic transport due to alongshore shelf bed slope and horizontal advection are found to be important contributors to cross-shore flow development. Sea level variability along the curved coastline is driven by the regional alongshore wind but a spatial variability is identified due to the locally defined components of along- and cross-shore winds controlled by coastline orientation

Observations and 3D hydrodynamics-based modeling of decadal-scale shoreline change along the Outer Banks, North Carolina

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Coastal Engineering 120 (2017): 78-92, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.11.014.Long-term decadal-scale shoreline change is an important parameter for quantifying the stability of coastal systems. The decadal-scale coastal change is controlled by processes that occur on short time scales (such as storms) and long-term processes (such as prevailing waves). The ability to predict decadal-scale shoreline change is not well established and the fundamental physical processes controlling this change are not well understood. Here we investigate the processes that create large-scale long-term shoreline change along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, an uninterrupted 60 km stretch of coastline, using both observations and a numerical modeling approach. Shoreline positions for a 24-yr period were derived from aerial photographs of the Outer Banks. Analysis of the shoreline position data showed that, although variable, the shoreline eroded an average of 1.5 m/yr throughout this period. The modeling approach uses a three-dimensional hydrodynamics-based numerical model coupled to a spectral wave model and simulates the full 24-yr time period on a spatial grid running on a short (second scale) time-step to compute the sediment transport patterns. The observations and the model results show similar magnitudes (O(105 m3/yr)) and patterns of alongshore sediment fluxes. Both the observed and the modeled alongshore sediment transport rates have more rapid changes at the north of our section due to continuously curving coastline, and possible effects of alongshore variations in shelf bathymetry. The southern section with a relatively uniform orientation, on the other hand, has less rapid transport rate changes. Alongshore gradients of the modeled sediment fluxes are translated into shoreline change rates that have agreement in some locations but vary in others. Differences between observations and model results are potentially influenced by geologic framework processes not included in the model. Both the observations and the model results show higher rates of erosion (∼−1 m/yr) averaged over the northern half of the section as compared to the southern half where the observed and modeled averaged net shoreline changes are smaller (<0.1 m/yr). The model indicates accretion in some shallow embayments, whereas observations indicate erosion in these locations. Further analysis identifies that the magnitude of net alongshore sediment transport is strongly dominated by events associated with high wave energy. However, both big- and small- wave events cause shoreline change of the same order of magnitude because it is the gradients in transport, not the magnitude, that are controlling shoreline change. Results also indicate that alongshore momentum is not a simple balance between wave breaking and bottom stress, but also includes processes of horizontal vortex force, horizontal advection and pressure gradient that contribute to long-term alongshore sediment transport. As a comparison to a more simple approach, an empirical formulation for alongshore sediment transport is used. The empirical estimates capture the effect of the breaking term in the hydrodynamics-based model, however, other processes that are accounted for in the hydrodynamics-based model improve the agreement with the observed alongshore sediment transport.This study was also supported by the United States Geological Survey Coastal Change Processes Project and Department of the Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery program

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 3799–3816, doi:10.1002/2016JC012222.To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.National Security Science and Engineering Faculty Fellowship; Vannevar Bush Fellowship; Office of the Assistant Secretary of Defense for Research and Engineering; NDSEG; ONR; NSF2017-11-0

Attenuation of ocean surface waves in pancake and frazil sea ice along the coast of the Chukchi Sea

Alaskan Arctic coastlines are protected seasonally from ocean waves by the presence of coastal and shorefast sea ice. This study presents field observations collected during the autumn 2019 freeze up near Icy Cape, a coastal headland in the Chukchi Sea of the Western Arctic. The evolution of the coupled air-ice-ocean-wave system during a four-day wave event was monitored using drifting wave buoys, a cross-shore mooring array, and ship-based measurements. The incident wave field with peak period of 2.5 s was attenuated by coastal pancake and frazil sea ice, reducing significant wave height by 40\% over less than 5 km of cross-shelf distance spanning water depths from 13 to 30 m. Spectral attenuation coefficients are evaluated with respect to wave and ice conditions and the proximity to the ice edge. Attenuation rates are found to be three times higher within 500 m of the ice edge, relative to values farther in the ice cover. Attenuation coefficients are in the range of $\langle 2.3,2.7\rangle$ \si{\meter^{-1}}, and follow a power-law dependence on frequency

Wave-current interaction in Willapa Bay

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2011. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 116 (2011): C12014, doi:10.1029/2011JC007387.This paper describes the importance of wave-current interaction in an inlet-estuary system. The three-dimensional, fully coupled, Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system was applied in Willapa Bay (Washington State) from 22 to 29 October 1998 that included a large storm event. To represent the interaction between waves and currents, the vortex-force method was used. Model results were compared with water elevations, currents, and wave measurements obtained by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers. In general, a good agreement between field data and computed results was achieved, although some discrepancies were also observed in regard to wave peak directions in the most upstream station. Several numerical experiments that considered different forcing terms were run in order to identify the effects of each wind, tide, and wave-current interaction process. Comparison of the horizontal momentum balances results identified that wave-breaking-induced acceleration is one of the leading terms in the inlet area. The enhancement of the apparent bed roughness caused by waves also affected the values and distribution of the bottom shear stress. The pressure gradient showed significant changes with respect to the pure tidal case. During storm conditions the momentum balance in the inlet shares the characteristics of tidal-dominated and wave-dominated surf zone environments. The changes in the momentum balance caused by waves were manifested both in water level and current variations. The most relevant effect on hydrodynamics was a wave-induced setup in the inner part of the estuary.Primary funding for this study was furnished by the U.S. Geological Survey, Coastal and Marine Geology Program, under the Carolinas Coastal Change Processes Project.2012-06-1