Near-bed hydrodynamics and turbulence below a large-scale plunging breaking wave over a mobile barred bed profile

Funded by The research presented in this paper is part of the SINBAD project. Grant Number: STW (12058) and EPSRC (EP/J00507X/1, EP/J005541/1)Peer reviewedPublisher PDFPublisher PD

Near-Bed Turbulent Kinetic Energy Budget Under a Large-Scale Plunging Breaking Wave Over a Fixed Bar

Hydrodynamics under regular plunging breaking waves over a fixed breaker bar were studied in a large-scale wave flume. A previous paper reported on the outer flow hydrodynamics; the present paper focuses on the turbulence dynamics near the bed (up to 0.10 m from the bed). Velocities were measured with high spatial and temporal resolution using a two component laser Doppler anemometer. The results show that even at close distance from the bed (1 mm), the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) increases by a factor five between the shoaling, and breaking regions because of invasion of wave breaking turbulence. The sign and phase behavior of the time-dependent Reynolds shear stresses at elevations up to approximately 0.02 m from the bed (roughly twice the elevation of the boundary layer overshoot) are mainly controlled by local bed-shear-generated turbulence, but at higher elevations Reynolds stresses are controlled by wave breaking turbulence. The measurements are subsequently analyzed to investigate the TKE budget at wave-averaged and intrawave time scales. Horizontal and vertical turbulence advection, production, and dissipation are the major terms. A two-dimensional wave-averaged circulation drives advection of wave breaking turbulence through the near-bed layer, resulting in a net downward influx in the bar trough region, followed by seaward advection along the bar's shoreward slope, and an upward outflux above the bar crest. The strongly nonuniform flow across the bar combined with the presence of anisotropic turbulence enhances turbulent production rates near the bed

Beach profile evolution towards equilibrium from varying initial morphologies

The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile morphology. The three different initial profiles are an intermediate energy profile with an offshore bar and a small swash berm, a plane profile and a low energy profile with a large berm. The three cases evolve towards the same final (equilibrium) profile determined by the same wave condition. This implies that the same wave condition generates different sediment transport patterns. Largest beach changes and differences in hydrodynamics occur in the beginning of the experimental cases, highlighting the coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics for beach evolution towards the same profile. The coupling between morphology and hydrodynamics that leads to the same final beach profile is associated with differences in sediment transport in the surf and swash zone, and is explained by the presence of bar and berm features. A large breaker bar and concave profile promote wave energy dissipation and reduce the magnitudes of the mean near-bed flow velocity close to the shoreline limiting shoreline erosion. In contrast, a beach profile with reflective features, such as a large berm and a small or no bar, increases negative velocity magnitudes at the berm toe promoting shoreline retreat. The findings are summarised in a conceptual model that describes how the beach changes towards equilibrium from two different initial morphologies

Suspended and bedload transport in the surfzone : implications for sand transport models

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The research presented in this paper is conducted within the SINBAD project, funded by STW (12058) and EPSRC (EP/J00507X/1, EP/J005541/1), and received additional funding through the European Community’s FP7 project Hydralab IV (contract no. 261520).Publisher PD

Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar

The authors wish to thank the staff of CIEMLAB (Joaquim Sospedra, Oscar Galego and Ricardo Torres) and Mick Poppe from the University of Twente for their contributions to the experiments. We are also grateful to fellow SINBAD researchers and to prof. Peter Thorne for their feedback on preliminary results and to two anonymous reviewers and prof. dr. Suzanne J.M.H. Hulscher for their feedback on the draft manuscript. The research presented in this paper is part of the SINBAD project, funded by STW (12058) and EPSRC (EP/J00507X/1, EP/J005541/1). We further acknowledge the European Community’s FP7 project Hydralab IV (contract no. 261520) for funding the accompanying SandT-Pro experiments and the ACVP development by CNRS-LEGI (D. Hurther, P.-A. Barraud, J.-M. Barnoud).Peer reviewedPostprin

Bed level motions and sheet flow processes in the swash zone: Observations with a new conductivity-based concentration measuring technique (CCM+)

Detailed measurements of bed level motions and sheet flow processes in the lower swash are presented. The measurements are obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focusing on swash zone sediment transport induced by bichromatic waves. A new instrument (CCM+) provides detailed phase-averaged measurements of sheet flow concentrations, particle velocities, and bed level evolution during a complete swash cycle. The bed at the lower swash location shows a clear pattern of rapid erosion during the early uprush and progressive accretion during the middle backwash phase. Sheet flow occurs during the early uprush and mid and late backwash phases. Sheet flow sediment fluxes during these instances are highest in the pick-up layer. Sediment entrainment from the pick-up layer occurs not only during instances of high horizontal shear velocities but also in occurrence of wave–backwash interactions. As opposed to oscillatory sheet flow, the pivot point elevation of the sheet flow layer is time-varying during a swash event. Moreover, the upper sheet flow layer concentrations do not mirror the concentrations in the pick-up layer. Both differences suggest that in the lower swash zone the dynamics of the upper sheet flow layer are not only controlled by vertical sediment exchange (such as in oscillatory sheet flows) but are strongly affected by horizontal advection processes induced by the non-uniformity of the flow

Напрями та шляхи вдосконалення матеріально-технічного забезпечення підприємств АПК регіону

Background The growing number of web-based psychological treatments, based on textual communication, generates a wealth of data that can contribute to knowledge of online and face-to-face treatments. We investigated whether clients language use predicted treatment outcomes and adherence in Master Your Mood (MYM), an online group course for young adults with depressive symptoms. Methods Among 234 participants from a randomised controlled trial of MYM, we tested whether their word use on course application forms predicted baseline levels of depression, anxiety and mastery, or subsequent treatment adherence. We then analysed chat session transcripts of course completers (n=67) to investigate whether word use changes predicted changes in treatment outcomes. Results Depression improvement was predicted by increasing use of 'discrepancy words' during treatment (e.g. should). At baseline, more discrepancy words predicted higher mastery level. Adherence was predicted by more words used at application, more social words and fewer discrepancy words. Limitations Many variables were included, increasing the chance of coincidental results. This risk was constrained by examining only those word categories that have been investigated in relation to depression or adherence. Conclusions This is the first study to link word use during treatment to outcomes of treatment that has proven to be effective in an RCT. The results suggest that paying attention to the length of problem articulation at application and to 'discrepancy words' may be wise, as these seem to be psychological markers. To expand knowledge of word use as psychological marker, research on web-based treatment should include text analysis. © 2014 The Authors

Wave Boundary Layer Hydrodynamics and Sheet Flow Properties under Large-Scale Plunging-Type Breaking Waves

The authors wish to thank the staff of CIEMLAB, in particular Joaquim Sospedra, Oscar Galego and Ricardo Torres, for their hospitality and hard work during the experimental campaign. This research was funded by the European Community’s Horizon 2020 Programme through the Integrated Infrastructure Initiative HYDRALAB+ COMPLEX (no. 654110), the French DGA funded ANR Astrid Maturation project MESURE (no. ANR-16- ASMA-0005-01) and the SINBAD project funded by STW (12058) in the Netherlands and by EPSRC (EP/J00507X/1, EPJ005541/1) in the UK. Data of this study are available at U. Twente repository doi (10.4121/uuid:753f1d84-36e5-47fa-b74b-55c288545b9b). Comments and remarks raised by the two anonymous reviewers helped to improve the quality of the paper.Peer reviewedPublisher PD