83 research outputs found

    Cosmetic dermatology: pincipies and practice

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    Development and in vitro evaluation of extended-release theophylline matrix capsules

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    Cápsulas de liberação modificada contendo 100 mg de teofilina foram preparadas com polímeros derivados da celulose (Methocel® K100MPRCR, K15MPRCR e E4MCR) em diferentes concentrações, 15-35%, empregando-se o método volumétrico. Estudos de liberação do fármaco foram realizados de acordo com a Farmacopéia Americana 28 ed., (Teste 8), empregando aparato 1, rotação de 100 rpm e temperatura de 37 ºC em 900 mL de meio fluido intestinal sem enzimas (pH 7,5). Os perfis de dissolução foram comparados ao de duas especialidades farmacêuticas comerciais. A formulação, com 35% de Methocel® E4MCR, evidenciou perfis de liberação de acordo com as especificações e os resultados foram reprodutíveis para 10 lotes manipulados com a mesma formulação. As cápsulas comerciais de liberação prolongada contendo 100 mg de teofilina (microgrânulos), submetidas ao mesmo ensaio, apresentaram rápida liberação do fármaco, indicando que a liberação não é fator limitante para a absorção. Avaliou-se a cinética de liberação do fármaco empregando os modelos matemáticos de ordem zero, primeira ordem e Higuchi. Conclui-se que as matrizes obtidas foram capazes de modular a liberação, envolvendo os mecanismos de difusão e erosão, prevalecendo o modelo de primeira ordem e que as cápsulas de liberação modificada podem ser manipuladas, desde que testes de liberação sejam realizados.Polymers like cellulose (MethocelTM K100MPRCR, K15MPRCR and E4MCR) at different proportions (15-35%) were used to slow the release of theophylline (100 mg) from capsules. Volumetric method for powder filling capsules was used to prepare the capsules. Drug release from capsules was performed using apparatus 1, at 100 rpm and 900 mL of intestinal medium without enzymes (pH 7.5), at 37 °C, following the USP 28th ed. (Test 8). Dissolution profiles were compared to two batches of commercial extended-release capsules. Capsules compounded with 35% (wt/wt) of MethocelTM E4MCR showed dissolution profile according to the official especifications. Similar results were reproduced with other ten compounded batches. Commercial extended-release capsules containing theophylline pellets (100 mg) showed quick drug release when submitted to the same test, indicating that, in these conditions, the capsules did not show prolonged release. Mathematical models like zero-order, first-order and Higuchi were applied in kinetic studies of theophylline release from the compounded capsules. Polymers were efficient to control the release of theophylline in capsules involving diffusion and erosion as mechanisms, and that first-order model was the best fitted one for theophylline matrix capsules. These results support that compounded extended-release capsules can be prepared, since the drug release tests can be done

    UVA I-protection effectiveness of bioactive compound and organic UV filters: an in vitro assessment

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    This research work aimed at determining the UVA effectiveness (UVA I/UV ratio), by diffuse transmittance analysis, of sunscreens developed with a bioactive substance, the rutin, associating or not with organic UVB-UVA filters incorporated at a phosphate-base O/W emulsion. Sunscreens provided conflicting and unpredictable results concerning the anti-UVA protection, specially, at the UVA I region. Possible interactions among the organic UV filters and the polyphenolic bioactive substance may have accounted with improvement or reduction of UV protection by a complex and not yet elucidated mechanism, probably regarding wavelength delocalization to superior or inferior values, by resonant molecule stabilization or destabilization

    Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts

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    The aim of this work was to evaluate the innovative performance of herbal extracts applied in cosmetics area, based on information collected from Brazilian, American and European patent banks. Analysis were carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits from each database, the patent applicants profiles, the companies with most patent applications, and also the main uses of herbal extracts in cosmetics. Based on the results achieved, the number of patents filed at the Brazilian patent bank is much lower than that observed in American and European patent banks. Although the number of patents is limited, the analysis indicated a range of cosmetic applications that acts according to the international market trend, represented by a large number of multifunctional products.O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o cenário da inovação referente a extratos vegetais aplicados no setor de cosméticos, com base em informações extraídas dos bancos de patentes brasileiro, americano e europeu. Foram realizadas análises para avaliar o número de depósitos de patentes de cada banco de dados, o perfil dos depositantes, as empresas com maior número de registros de patentes, e também as principais aplicações dos extratos vegetais descritos nos documentos. Com base nos resultados obtidos, o número de patentes depositadas no banco de patentes brasileiro é muito inferior ao observado nos bancos de patentes americano e europeu. No entanto, embora o número de patentes seja limitado, as análises indicaram uma variedade de aplicações cosméticas que agem de acordo com a tendência do mercado internacional, representada por um número elevado de produtos multifuncionais

    Evaluation of in vitro percutaneous enhancement effect of papain and pequi oil on diclofenac sodium permeation through human skin

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    O objetivo desta pesquisa foi determinar in vitro o potencial da papaína e do óleo de pequi como promotores de penetração cutânea para o diclofenaco de sódio (DS) através de pele humana. Os estudos de penetração foram conduzidos em células de difusão vertical. Os promotores foram associados ou não em géis em concentrações distintas. A avaliação in vitro revelou que a papaína 0,2% p/p apresentou propriedade promotora maior para o diclofenaco de sódio (J = 0,3369 mg/cm²x h). O óleo de pequi 10,0% p/v promoveu redução do fluxo (J = 0,1848 mg/cm²x h) e a combinação de ambos os promotores apresentou valor mediano de fluxo de J = 0,2187 mg/cm²x h. A partir dos resultados, verificou-se que a papaína exerceu ação promotora de penetração cutânea melhor que o óleo de pequi.The purpose of this research was to determine the potential of papain and pequi oil as penetration enhancers for diclofenac sodium (DS) across human skin in vitro. The permeation studies were conducted with vertical diffusion cells. The enhancers were associated or not in gels in different concentrations. In vitro studies reveled that papain 0.2% (w/v) presented an elevated enhancer property for diclofenac sodium (J = 0.3369 mg/cm²x h). Pequi oil 10% (w/v) generated a reduced flux value (J = 0.1848 mg/cm²x h) and a combination of both enhancers presented a medium value of J = 0.2187 mg/cm²x h. Papain was found to be better enhancer than pequi oil

    New model of biological membrane (shed snakeskin) for studies of antioxidant activity in photoprotective formulation/ Novo modelo de membrana biológica (ecdise de pele de cobra) para estudos de atividade antioxidante em formulação fotoprotetora

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    Antioxidants of natural origin are used in medicines and cosmetics with several benefits, such as: photoprotective action, anti-aging, moisturizing and anti-pollutant. The human epidermis has an important barrier effect and limited anti-oxidative capacity, so studies with the epidermis is essential. Shed snakeskin (SS) is composed of the stratum corneum and provide a barrier like human stratum corneum. This alternative does not show a tendency to microbiological degradation and can be considered ecologically correct. This study intends to present, in an innovative way, the Electron Paramagnetic Resonance spectroscopy (EPR) and The Forster Resonance Energy Transfer (FRET) were employed to evaluate the natural antioxidant substances (Resveratrol/ RES 3.0 w/w and Ferulic acid/ FA 1.0 w/w) associated with organic sunscreens ingredients (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate/ EHMC 10.0%w/w and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethano/ BMBM 5.0%w/w in a photoprotective emulsion (PB). Furthermore, the use of SS seedlings as a possible alternative to the use of human or animal skin ex-vivo. RES and FA can absorb the energy emitted by the EHMC in FRET, preventing the passage through the triplet state, favoring the photostability of this sunscreen, the same not ocorred with the BMBM. Antioxidant activity of the photoprotective formulations was evaluated in vitro by the percentual inhibition of the radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrihydrazyl (DPPH•). The antioxidant activity with RES, 97.0% inhibition of DPPH• in the PB, was higher than PB + FA (91.0%), however the concentration of RES in PB was higher than FA. The sample SS + PB + FA was the one with the lowest number of free radicals after irradiation, which corroborated the high percentage of radical inhibition in vitro and it was the better association with the photoprotective formulation.

    Stability evaluation of organic Lip Balm

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    O aumento da demanda global por produtos naturais, cuja produção não envolva nenhum dano ao meio ambiente, tem estimulado o desenvolvimento de cosméticos naturais e, dentro desta categoria, dos produtos orgânicos (que contêm 95% de matérias-primas orgânicas). O protetor labial é um produto cosmético semelhante ao batom que tem a finalidade de prevenir o ressecamento dos lábios, mantendo a hidratação, e protegê-los contra fatores ambientais adversos. Este trabalho envolveu o desenvolvimento de um protetor labial formulado com matérias-primas orgânicas e avaliação dos parâmetros de estabilidade, como ponto de fusão, características organolépticas e funcionalidade (teste de espalhabilidade). A formulação selecionada após o Estudo de Estabilidade Preliminar foi submetida à Avaliação Normal de Estabilidade, nas seguintes condições de armazenamento (temperatura): Ambiente (22,0 ± 3,0 ºC), Estufa (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) e Geladeira (5,0 ± 1,0 ºC), por 90 dias. Nas condições de armazenamento em geladeira ou ambiente, a espalhabilidade foi adequada, mas a superfície apresentou pontos esbranquiçados, caracterizando o fenômeno chamado fat bloom, que está relacionado à recristalização da manteiga de cacau. O armazenamento à temperatura elevada (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) provocou perda de funcionalidade, de acordo com o teste de espalhabilidade, e mudança de cor, apesar do aspecto permanecer uniforme, visto que não foi observado o fenômeno fat bloom. O odor manteve-se estável em todas as condições, assim como o ponto de fusão, com valor médio de 72,9 ºC ± 1,7 ºC durante todo o período de avaliação do teste de estabilidade (90 dias).Rising global demand for natural products whose production is harmless to the environment has stimulated the development of natural cosmetics and, within this category, organics (95% organic raw materials). The image of environmentally friendly production is one of the strongest attractions of organic products. Lip balm is a cosmetic product similar to lipstick whose purpose is to prevent lip dryness and protect against adverse environmental factors. The product's characteristics are: resistance to temperature variations, pleasant flavor, innocuousness, smoothness during application, adherence and easy intentional removal. This work involved the development of a lip balm formulated with certified organic raw materials and the execution of stability tests: fusion point determination, evaluation of organoleptic characteristics (color, odor and appearance) and functionality evaluation (spreadability test). The formulation selected after the Preliminary Stability Test was submitted to the Normal Stability Test under the following storage conditions (temperature): Room Temperature (22.0 ± 3.0 ºC), Oven (40.0 ± 2.0 ºC) and Refrigerator (5.0 ± 1.0 ºC), for 90 days. Under the Refrigerator and Room Temperature conditions, spreadability proved adequate, but the surface presented white spots, characterizing the fat bloom, a phenomenon involving the recrystallization of cocoa butter. Storage at 40.0 ± 2.0 ºC (Oven) caused loss of functionality according to the spreadability test, in addition to changes in color, although the aspect was uniform since the fat bloom was not observed (white spots on the surface). The odor remained stable under all conditions as did the melting point, which had a mean of 72.9 ± 1.7 ºC throughout the course of stability testing (90 days)

    Particle size and morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsified systems by Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT)

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    The physicochemical attributes of emulsified systems are influenced by the characteristics of their internal phase droplets (concentration, size and morphology), which can be modified not only by the formulation components, but also by the analytical methodology employed. Thus, the aim of this work involved the physicochemical characterization of cosmetic emulsions obtained from different surfactants, as well as the introduction of the optical coherence tomography (OCT) as the analytical technique employed for the morphological characterization and particle size determination of the formulations. Three emulsions were prepared, differing at the type and concentration of the surfactant used, and their droplet sizes were evaluated through optical microscopy, laser diffraction and OCT. The microscopic analysis and the laser diffraction techniques provided an average particle size minor than 6.0 µm, not detected by the OCT technique, which could identify only bigger particles of the emulsified systems' internal phase. The results testify that OCT was suitable for the morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsions; however, the technique needs to be improved to ensure a better sensitivity in the analysis of smaller particles.Os atributos físico-químicos de sistemas emulsionados são influenciados pelas características de suas gotículas de fase interna (concentração, tamanho e morfologia), as quais podem ser modificadas não apenas pelos componentes da formulação, mas também pela metodologia analítica empregada. Desta forma, o objetivo deste trabalho envolveu a caracterização físico-química de emulsões cosméticas obtidas a partir de diferentes tensoativos, bem como a introdução da tomografia de coerência óptica (OCT) como a técnica analítica utilizada para a caracterização morfológica e determinação do tamanho de partícula das formulações. Três emulsões foram preparadas, diferindo no tipo e concentração do tensoativo empregado, e seus tamanhos de gotícula foram avaliados por meio das técnicas de microscopia óptica, difração a laser e OCT. As técnicas de microscopia óptica e difração a laser forneceram tamanhos de partícula médios menores de 6.0 µm, não detectados pela técnica de OCT, que permitiu apenas a identificação de partículas maiores pertencentes à fase interna dos sistemas emulsionados. Os resultados reforçam a introdução da OCT como metodologia promissora para a caracterização morfológica de emulsões cosméticas; no entanto, a técnica requer aprimoramento para garantir maior sensibilidade na análise de partículas de menor tamanho

    Rutina como fotoestabilizadora de protetores solares de amplo espectro / Rutin as photostabilizer for broad spectrum sunscreens

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    The combination of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM) and octyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) is widely used in pharmaceutical formulations but may exhibit alteration in spectral absorption following exposure to UV radiation. The addition of natural substances in sunscreen formulations has been explored regarding photoprotective efficacy. The main objective of this research was to evaluate the potential of rutin as a photostabilizer substance of EHMC and BMBM. The samples were evaluated before and after exposure to UV radiation to in vitro photoprotection and molecular interactions by 1H NMR, DSC, TG and qualitative analysis of the suppression of singlet energy state. The addition of rutin in the formulations containing BMBM and EHMC promoted an increase in the preservation of in vitro SPF of 53.9% to 65.8 (0.1% rutin ) and 70.8 % (1.0% rutin ). The DSC and TG curves of rutin showed interaction between the flavonoid and filters. The trans/cis ratio for EHMC improved from 5.5 ± 0.1 to 12.6 ± 0.4 with rutin addition. The suppression of the singlet state indicated that one of the mechanisms involved in the photostabilization is suppression of singlet excited state. These results can contribute to the development of broad-spectrum sunscreens formulations with increased safety and efficacy

    Active ingredients, mechanisms of action and efficacy tests of antipollution cosmetic and personal care products

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    Urban population around the globe is direct exposed to the pollution caused by several sources (vehicles, industries, smokes etc.) and primary pollutants are divided in particulate matter and toxic gases. Current researches in populous countries indicated that exposure to pollution could affect sebum composition, stratum corneum quality and signs of skin aging. Hair and scalp are also affected by the excessive exposure to pollutants, resulting in a dull, dry and lifeless appearance. Cosmetics have been evolved conceptual and scientifically to achieve substantial effectiveness against pollution damaging on the cutaneous tissue, involving the development of innovative multipurpose active ingredients and efficacy tests, skilled to prove the protection and benefits of such personal care products. In this review, we highlighted the skin and hair/scalp damages provoked by the main environmental pollutants and the active substances used in antipollution cosmetics/personal care products with the respective mechanisms of action. Likewise, in vitro and in vivo efficacy tests were discussed concerning the antipollution claim substantiating
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