Rock Climbing Injuries Treated in US Emergency Departments, 2008–2016

Previous research identified a trend for increasing numbers of injuries sustained while rock climbing. This study investigates whether that trend continued and describes characteristics of climbing injuries. Methods: The National Electronic Injury Surveillance System registry was searched for rock climbing injuries in US emergency departments in 2008 through 2016 among patients aged ≥7 y. Variables included each patient's age, diagnosis, injured body part, mechanism of injury, and disposition. Injuries were graded using International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation injury grades. National estimates were generated using sample weighting. Results: An estimated 34,785 rock climbing injuries were seen in emergency departments nationally, a mean of 3816 per year (SD 854). The median age of injured climbers was 24 y (range 7–77), with those aged 20 to 39 y accounting for 60% and males for 66%, respectively. Fractures (27%) and sprains and strains (26%) were the most common types of injuries. The most frequently injured body parts were lower extremities (47%), followed by upper extremities (25%). The most commonly fractured body part (27%) was the ankle. The knee and lower leg accounted for 42% of all lacerations and were 5.8 times as likely as lacerations to other body parts. Falls were the most common mechanism, accounting for 60% of all injuries. Conclusions: This study reports continued increase in annual numbers of climbing injuries. Whether this is based on a higher injury rate or on a higher number of climbers overall cannot be stated with certainty because no denominator is presented to estimate the injury rate among climbers

Cardiopulmonary exercise tests of adolescent elite sport climbers–a comparison of the German junior national team in sport climbing and Nordic skiing

Introduction: All the research investigating the cardiopulmonary capacity in climbers is focused on predictors for climbing performance. The effects of climbing on the cardiovascular system in adolescents climbing at an elite level (national team) have not been evaluated. Material and methods: Retrospective analysis of the cardiopulmonary exercise test (CPET) performed on a cycle ergometer during the annual medical examination of the entire German Junior National climbing team on one occasion and for a selected subgroup on two occasions spaced two years apart. The data from the subgroup was compared to an age- and gen der-matched control of Nordic skiers from the German Junior National Nordic skiing team. Results: 47 climbers (20 girls, 27 boys) were examined once. The VO2peak achieved by the athletes was 41.3 mL kg−1 min−1 (boys) and 39.8 mL kg−1 min−1 (girls). 8 boys and 6 girls were tested twice over a period of 27.5 months. The parameters of the exercise test measured on both occasions were significantly lower than those of the 8 male and 6 female Nordic skiers. There was no change with respect to any variables (e.g. VO2peak, peak work load, peak heart rate, peak lactate or O2 pulse) over the examined period. Conclusions: The elite climbers investigated in this study showed comparable VO2peak values to athletes from team and combat sports. The Nordic skiers to which they were compared showed significantly higher values consistent with the fact that this is an endurance sport. Even though the cardiopulmonary measurements of the Nordic skiers still improved after two years of training, no adaptations could be observed in the elite climber

Incidence, Diagnosis and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Competition climbing as an Olympic sport will debut at the 2020 summer games in Tokyo. The aims of this article are to critically review the incidence of injury in sport climbing and bouldering; the pathophysiology and presentation of finger and shoulder injuries; and the diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for finger injuries. A semisystematic approach in reviewing literature on incidence was applied. Articles were identified after searches of the following electronic databases: Discover, Academic Search Complete (EBSCO), PubMed, Embase, SPORTDiscus, and ScienceDirect. Despite methodological shortcomings of the included studies, we estimated the mean + standard deviation of the incidence rate of injury in sport climbing and bouldering from the eight studies to be 2.71 ± 4.49/1000hrs. Differential diagnosis and the clinical management of finger and shoulder injuries in climbers is challenging. An updated diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for finger injuries is presented

Shoulder muscle activity in sport climbing in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions

Objective: The aim of the study was to determine electromyographic activity of the scapula stabilizing muscles in naturally chosen and corrected shoulder positions in typical static climbing postures. Methods: Six male participants undertook surface electromyography measurement in four climbing postures for two different shoulder positions. The activity of the lower, middle and upper trapezius, serratus anterior, pectoralis major, and sternocleidomastoid was recorded. Electromyographic activity was expressed as the percentage of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) for each muscle. Results: Climbing postures induced higher activation of middle and lower trapezius in corrected shoulder positions (35.3 ± 11.8 and 61.7 ± 15.4% MVC respectively) than in naturally chosen shoulder positions (18.4 ± 8.9 and 30.1 ± 13.8% MVC respectively). The highest activity of the middle and lower trapezius was found in postures with the arm in external rotation and 90° abduction and in an overhanging posture. Low activation was stated for the other muscles in both shoulder conditions. Conclusion: Results showed that climbers naturally elevate the shoulder during typical static postures. Corrected shoulder positions induce higher activation of the scapula stabilizing muscles than naturally chosen shoulder positions.N/

Coordination in climbing: effect of skill, practice and constraints manipulation

BACKGROUND: Climbing is a physical activity and sport involving many subdisciplines. Minimization of prolonged pauses, use of a relatively simple path through a route and smooth transitions between movements broadly define skilled coordination in climbing. OBJECTIVES: To provide an overview of the constraints on skilled coordination in climbing and to explore future directions in this emerging field. METHODS: A systematic literature review was conducted in 2014 and retrieved studies reporting perceptual and movement data during climbing tasks. To be eligible for the qualitative synthesis, studies were required to report perceptual or movement data during climbing tasks graded for difficulty. RESULTS: Qualitative synthesis of 42 studies was carried out, showing that skilled coordination in climbing is underpinned by superior perception of climbing opportunities; optimization of spatial-temporal features pertaining to body-to-wall coordination, the climb trajectory and hand-to-hold surface contact; and minimization of exploratory behaviour. Improvements in skilled coordination due to practice are related to task novelty and the difficulty of the climbing route relative to the individual's ability level. CONCLUSION: Perceptual and motor adaptations that improve skilled coordination are highly significant for improving the climbing ability level. Elite climbers exhibit advantages in detection and use of climbing opportunities when visually inspecting a route from the ground and when physically moving though a route. However, the need to provide clear guidelines on how to improve climbing skill arises from uncertainties regarding the impacts of different practice interventions on learning and transfer