Genius Loci and Emerging Sustainable Fashion Strategies: Two Significant Case-Histories in Italy and Tunisia

The contemporary fashion supply chain is part of the Global Value Chains (GVCs), the organization of production, trade and investments across different countries. Then, authentic genius loci is often replaced by fluidly-applied signifiers extremely simplified. Considering the recent trends in fashion, several strategic opportunities for SMEs connected to their cultural heritage and artisanal know-how should be considered. In particular, the new value of sustainability and regenerative design in production processes. The research paper presents two significant examples from Italy and Tunisia. The first one is Prato textile district, Italy, known for its wool textile manufacture, existing since medieval times and in particular for regenerated wool processes called Cardato. Based upon this know-how, Prato SMEs offer to market fashion leaders an eco-friendly product in line with emerging sustainable trends. Today, emerging sustainable business models in the Fashion industry are increasingly evolving. In Prato, some SMEs have become part of international fashion events. Similarly, Tunisian brand Azalée reintroduced the straw weaving techniques in the contemporary fashion system. Azalée is conceived and designed based on local natural materials and culture, which is related to the craft of frond making originating from the palm leaves (called El-Jerid). This emerging brand entered the world of contemporary designers and has recently created exclusive eco-friendly baskets for l’Occitance-in-Province (The Reset collection)

Understanding the key parameters for the rational design of layered oxide materials by composite sol-gel procedures

Previous works have well demonstrated that particle size of the filler used in layered oxide formulation is the first important parameter and must be decreased below 5 μm (Agrafiotis, 1999-2000 [10]). But once the particle size is set what are the next formulation parameters to highlight as critical? How do we improve cohesion and adhesion of the coatings? To highlight the key parameters driving the quality of coating, a model layered oxide material was prepared inside a pan granulator. The model composite sol gel formulation is based on boehmite nanoparticles (binder) and amonomodal two micrometer grain size gamma alumina (filler) which is applied onto alpha alumina beads substrate. The influences of the wetting method and relative amount of filler and binderwere investigated. Extensive characterization and imaging of the layered materials (SEM, Cryo-SEM, EPMA, Washburn test, mechanical tests, Hg-porosimetry) were used in order to follow the microstructure evolution of coating during and at the end of drying. Several crack propagation schemes were observed and explained qualitatively. Overall quality of coating is mainly related to the sol-gel transition of the binder. It defines if prior to shaping, the binder primer will be able to improve the coating adhesion and it defines also the nature and extent of damages that the coating undergoes during drying. The mechanical properties of layered oxide materials obtained using composite sol-gel formulation are definitely correlated with the binder gel shrinkage during drying

Environment and female entrepreneurship in Southeast Asia: investigation of the environmental Kuznets curve hypothesis

This paper examines the relationship between female entrepreneurship and environmental implications in ASEAN economies. While economic growth and affluence benefit society, they come at the cost of environmental degradation, particularly rising carbon dioxide levels and ecosystem concerns. Women entrepreneurs in Southeast Asia can potentially support their families and contribute to societal development by starting their own businesses. Their ventures provide fresh perspectives on societal challenges and enable active participation and contribution to creative endeavors, leading to economic and social empowerment with ripple effects on families and communities. To assess the environmental consequences of women’s entrepreneurial activities, the study applies the bias-corrected method of moments and tests the Environmental Kuznets Curve hypothesis across ten ASEAN nations from 1980 to 2021. Results show cross-sectional dependence in all variables and confirm a long-term relationship within the EKC model. The fixed-effects estimator with bias correction is deemed the most suitable model. Findings indicate that GDPpc leads to decreased emissions, while the square of GDPpc contributes to increased emissions; however, the cubic term of GDPpc leads to decreased CO2 emissions, supporting the “inverted N” curve distribution of emissions across ASEAN nations proposed by the EKC theory. Additionally, the study reveals that higher percentages of female entrepreneurs are associated with increased carbon dioxide emissions, potentially due to increased efforts to support and develop female entrepreneurs. Conversely, a reduction in the gender gap in marriage, divorce, remarriage, and domestic violence leads to a shift away from entrepreneurial activities among women, positively impacting the environment

Improved control strategy of DFIG-based wind turbines using direct torque and direct power control techniques

This paper presents different control strategies for a variable-speed wind energy conversion system (WECS), based on a doubly fed induction generator. Direct Torque Control (DTC) with Space-Vector Modulation is used on the rotor side converter. This control method is known to reduce the fluctuations of the torque and flux at low speeds in contrast to the classical DTC, where the frequency of switching is uncontrollable. The reference for torque is obtained from the maximum power point tracking technique of the wind turbine. For the grid-side converter, a fuzzy direct power control is proposed for the control of the instantaneous active and reactive power. Simulation results of the WECS are presented to compare the performance of the proposed and classical control approaches.Peer reviewedFinal Accepted Versio

Cognitive impairment in patients with type 2 diabetes mellitus: prevalence, pathogenetic mechanisms, the effect of antidiabetic drugs

In recent years, a large amount of data has been accumulated on the relationship between cognitive impairment, dementia and diabetes mellitus. This article presents an overview of modern literature, including the definition of cognitive functions, the modern classification of cognitive impairment, pathogenetic mechanisms of diabetes mellitus influence on the development of cognitive impairment and dementia (neurogenesis, integrity of the blood-brain barrier, systemic inflammatory reactions, hyper- and hypoglycemia, insulin resistance, vascular dysfunction of the microvasculature and increase in glucocorticosteroids). The influence of anti-diabetic medications on cognitive functions has been examined in detail: insulin preparations, oral hypoglycemic agents of the biguanide group (metformin), thiazolidinediones (rosiglitazone and pioglitazone), sulfonylurea derivatives (glycazide, glipizide), a-glucosidase (acarbose) inhibitors, incretin-directed therapy (receptor agonists glucan-like peptide (exenatide and liraglutide) and inhibitors of dipeptidylpeptidase type 4 (sitagliptin, vildagliptin and alogliptin)), sodium glucose inhibitors cotransporter type 2. The data demonstrating a multidirectional effect on the cognitive functions of various antidiabetic drugs is presented, the possible influence on the rate of progression of cognitive impairment and the risk of dementia of intensive control of plasma glucose level in comparison with the standard decrease in patients with type 2 diabetes is analyzed

Identification of circulating microRNAs as diagnostic biomarkers for use in multiple myeloma

BACKGROUND: Multiple myeloma is a plasma cell disorder that is characterised by clonal proliferation of malignant plasma cells in the bone marrow, monoclonal paraprotein in the blood or urine and associated organ dysfunction. It accounts for approximately 1% of cancers and 13% of haematological cancers. Myeloma arises from an asymptomatic proliferation of monoclonal plasma cells termed monoclonal gammopathy of undetermined significance (MGUS). METHODS: MicroRNA expression profiling of serum samples was performed on three patient groups as well as normal controls. Validation of the nine microRNAs detected as promising biomarkers was carried out using TaqMan quantitative RT-PCR. MicroRNA levels in serum were normalised using standard curves to determine the numbers of microRNAs per μl of serum. RESULTS: Three serum microRNAs, miR-720, miR-1308 and miRNA-1246, were found to have potential as diagnostic biomarkers in myeloma. Use of miR-720 and miR-1308 together provides a powerful diagnostic tool for distinguishing normal healthy controls, as well as patients with unrelated illnesses, from precancerous myeloma and myeloma patients. In addition, the combination of miR-1246 and miR-1308 can distinguish MGUS from myeloma patients. CONCLUSION: We have developed a biomarker signature using microRNAs extracted from serum which has potential as a diagnostic and prognostic tool for multiple myeloma

Loss of Niemann-Pick C1 or C2 Protein Results in Similar Biochemical Changes Suggesting That These Proteins Function in a Common Lysosomal Pathway

Niemann-Pick Type C (NPC) disease is a lysosomal storage disorder characterized by accumulation of unesterified cholesterol and other lipids in the endolysosomal system. NPC disease results from a defect in either of two distinct cholesterol-binding proteins: a transmembrane protein, NPC1, and a small soluble protein, NPC2. NPC1 and NPC2 are thought to function closely in the export of lysosomal cholesterol with both proteins binding cholesterol in vitro but they may have unrelated lysosomal roles. To investigate this possibility, we compared biochemical consequences of the loss of either protein. Analyses of lysosome-enriched subcellular fractions from brain and liver revealed similar decreases in buoyant densities of lysosomes from NPC1 or NPC2 deficient mice compared to controls. The subcellular distribution of both proteins was similar and paralleled a lysosomal marker. In liver, absence of either NPC1 or NPC2 resulted in similar alterations in the carbohydrate processing of the lysosomal protease, tripeptidyl peptidase I. These results highlight biochemical alterations in the lysosomal system of the NPC-mutant mice that appear secondary to lipid storage. In addition, the similarity in biochemical phenotypes resulting from either NPC1 or NPC2 deficiency supports models in which the function of these two proteins within lysosomes are linked closely

Vaccine delivery by penetratin: mechanism of antigen presentation by dendritic cells

Cell-penetrating peptides (CPP) or membrane-translocating peptides such as penetratin from Antennapedia homeodomain or TAT from human immunodeficiency virus are useful vectors for the delivery of protein antigens or their cytotoxic (Tc) or helper (Th) T cell epitopes to antigen-presenting cells. Mice immunized with CPP containing immunogens elicit antigen-specific Tc and/or Th responses and could be protected from tumor challenges. In the present paper, we investigate the mechanism of class I and class II antigen presentation of ovalbumin covalently linked to penetratin (AntpOVA) by bone marrow-derived dendritic cells with the use of biochemical inhibitors of various pathways of antigen processing and presentation. Results from our study suggested that uptake of AntpOVA is via a combination of energy-independent (membrane fusion) and energy-dependent pathways (endocytosis). Once internalized by either mechanism, multiple tap-dependent or independent antigen presentation pathways are accessed while not completely dependent on proteasomal processing but involving proteolytic trimming in the ER and Golgi compartments. Our study provides an understanding on the mechanism of antigen presentation mediated by CPP and leads to greater insights into future development of vaccine formulations