Variability of depth-limited waves in coral reef surf zones

Wave breaking and transformation on coral reef flats is an important process protecting tropical coastlines and regulating the energy regimes of coral reefs. However, the high hydraulic roughness, shallow water, and steep bathymetries of coral reefs may confound common surf zone assumptions, such as a depth-limited and saturated surf zone with a constant wave height to water depth ratio (γ). Here, we examine wave transformation across a coral reef flat, during three separate swell events, on both a time-averaged and a wave-by-wave basis. We use the relationship between significant wave height and water depth (γ) to examine the change in surf saturation across the reef flat and compare the measured wave height decay to results of modelled wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Our results show that γ was not cross-reef constant and varied according to location on the reef flat and local water depth. On average, γ was greatest at the outer reef flat, near the reef crest, and progressively reduced towards the inner reef flat, near the reef lagoon. This was most pronounced in shallow water with large γ values (γ > 0.85) at the outer reef flat and small γ values (γ < 0.1) at the inner reef flat. This indicates that there is an increase in wave energy dissipation in shallow water, most likely due to increased breaker and bed frictional dissipation. The measured wave energy dissipation across the entire reef flat could, on average, be modelled accurately; however, this required location specific calibration of the free parameters, the wave friction factor (f) and γ, and further suggests that there is no value for either parameter that is universally applicable to coral reef flats. Despite model calibration inaccuracies were still observed, primarily at the outer reef flat. These inaccuracies reflected the observed cross-reef variation of γ on the reef flat and potentially the limitations of random wave breaker dissipation models in complex surf zones. Our results have implications for the use of wave energy dissipation models in predicting breaker dissipation and subsequent benthic community change on coral reef flats, and suggest that careful consideration of the free parameters in such models (such as f and γ) is required

Second-Pass Assessment of Potential Exposure to Shoreline Change in New South Wales, Australia, Using a Sediment Compartments Framework

The impacts of coastal erosion are expected to increase through the present century, and beyond, as accelerating global mean sea-level rise begins to enhance or dominate local shoreline dynamics. In many cases, beach (and shoreline) response to sea-level rise will not be limited to passive inundation, but may be amplified or moderated by sediment redistribution between the beach and the broader coastal sedimentary system. We describe a simple and scalable approach for estimating the potential for beach erosion and shoreline change on wave-dominated sandy beaches, using a coastal sediment compartments framework to parameterise the geomorphology and connectivity of sediment-sharing coastal systems. We apply the approach at regional and local scales in order to demonstrate the sensitivity of forecasts to the available data. The regional-scale application estimates potential present and future asset exposure to coastal erosion in New South Wales, Australia. The assessment suggests that shoreline recession due to sea-level rise could drive a steep increase in the number and distribution of asset exposure in the present century. The local-scale example demonstrates the potential sensitivity of erosion impacts to the distinctive coastal geomorphology of individual compartments. Our findings highlight that the benefits of applying a coastal sediment compartments framework increase with the coverage and detail of geomorphic data that is available to parameterise sediment-sharing systems and sediment budget principles. Such data is crucial to reducing uncertainty in forecasts by understanding the potential response of key sediment sources and sinks (e.g., the shoreface, estuaries) to sea-level rise in different settings

Sea level rise and the increasing frequency of inundation in Australia’s most exposed estuary

The large tidal lake systems along the Southeast Australian coast are amongst the most vulnerable estuaries in Australia to the effects of sea level rise. In these lakes, reduced tide ranges compared with the ocean, in combination with modest flood extremes, have allowed development to occur in close vertical proximity to the current mean sea level. In this study, we examine water levels within Lake Macquarie, Australia’s most exposed estuary to sea level rise. We analyse water level data from the entrance channel and the lake to investigate recent changes to the frequency and duration of inundation or flooding of low-lying streets and examine the potential impacts of future rises in sea level. Our analysis shows that the numbers of days each year when water levels exceed those of low-lying streets, while subject to some variability, have increased significantly over recent decades. The increasing frequency of inundation is attributed to both mean sea level rise and an increase in tide range over the period of available data, which is thought to be associated with scour processes related to ongoing morphological adjustment to entrance training works undertaken over a century ago. Comparison of the projected behaviour of lake and open coast water levels under sea level rise shows the lake has significantly greater sensitivity to sea level rise. Projected inundation frequency for a given amount of sea level rise within the lake is double that of open coast sites, exposing infrastructure in the estuary to increasing risk of damage

Foredune erosion, overtopping and destruction in 2022 at Bengello Beach, southeastern Australia

The beach–foredune system at Bengello Beach has been monitored monthly to bimonthly at four profiles (P1–P4) since 1972 and documented the building of a foredune. This paper addresses the remarkable changes which occurred in 2022 as storm waves overtopped and trimmed this foredune at all profiles, then later removed this entire feature at two of the profiles (P3, P4) but not the others (P1, P2). Wave parameters for these storm events, measured by deepwater and nearshore wave buoys, enable a comparison of storm characteristics and resulting beach–foredune impact. During the storm event which destroyed the foredune, nearshore wave height exceeded deepwater wave height, in contrast with other storms that year. The beach–foredune lost 78 m3/m in 2022 and the notable 1974 storms that impacted this coastline resulted in 95 m3/m volume loss. During 2023, beach recovery has occurred, but not rebuilt the foredune. It had persisted for ~40 years enduring many other severe storm events, and the coastal protection afforded by the dune system has been compromised. This highlights the need to consider dune morphology in assessments of erosion hazard and inundation risk along similar coastlines

Wave height to water depth ratios for coral reef flats from different coral reef surf zones

Wave breaking and transformation on coral reef flats is an important process protecting tropical coastlines and regulating the energy regimes of coral reefs. However, the high hydraulic roughness, shallow water, and steep bathymetries of coral reefs may confound common surf zone assumptions, such as a depth-limited and saturated surf zone with a constant wave height to water depth ratio (γ). Here, we examine wave transformation across a coral reef flat, during three separate swell events, on both a time-averaged and a wave-by wave basis. We use the relationship between significant wave height and water depth (γs) to examine the change in surf saturation across the reef flat and compare the measured wave height decay to results of modelled wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Our results show that γs was not cross-reef constant and varied according to location on the reef flat and local water depth. On average, γs was greatest at the outer reef flat, near the reef crest, and progressively reduced towards the inner reef flat, near the reef lagoon. This was most pronounced in shallow water with large γs values (γs > 0.85) at the outer reef flat and small γs values (γs < 0.1) at the inner reef flat. This indicates that there is an increase in wave energy dissipation in shallow water, most likely due to increased breaker and bed frictional dissipation. The measured wave energy dissipation across the entire reef flat could, on average, be modelled accurately; however, this required location specific calibration of the free parameters, the wave friction factor (fw) and γ, and further suggests that there is no value for either parameter that is universally applicable to coral reef flats. Despite model calibration inaccuracies were still observed, primarily at the outer reef flat. These inaccuracies reflected the observed cross-reef variation of γ on the reef flat and potentially the limitations of random wave breaker dissipation models in complex surf zones. Our results have implications for the use of wave energy dissipation models in predicting breaker dissipation and subsequent benthic community change on coral reef flats, and uggest that careful consideration of the free parameters in such models (such as fw and γ) is required

Techniques for Classifying Seabed Morphology and Composition on a Subtropical-Temperate Continental Shelf

In 2017, the New South Wales (NSW) Office of Environment and Heritage (OEH) initiated a state-wide mapping program, SeaBed NSW, which systematically acquires high-resolution (2&#8211;5 m cell size) multibeam echosounder (MBES) and marine LiDAR data along more than 2000 km of the subtropical-to-temperate southeast Australian continental shelf. This program considerably expands upon existing efforts by OEH to date, which have mapped approximately 15% of NSW waters with these technologies. The delivery of high volumes of new data, together with the vast repository of existing data, highlights the need for a standardised, automated approach to classify seabed data. Here we present a methodological approach with new procedures to semi-automate the classification of high-resolution bathymetry and intensity (backscatter and reflectivity) data into a suite of data products including classifications of seabed morphology (landforms) and composition (substrates, habitats, geomorphology). These methodologies are applied to two case study areas representing newer (Wollongong, NSW) and older (South Solitary Islands, NSW) MBES datasets to assess the transferability of classification techniques across input data of varied quality. The suite of seabed classifications produced by this study provide fundamental baseline data on seabed shape, complexity, and composition which will inform regional risk assessments and provide insights into biodiversity and geodiversity

Improving shoreline change forecasts through Coastal seabed mapping and sediment budgeting

We present new high-resolution seabed mapping of the shoreface to inner-continental shelf in New South Wales, Australia. The data combines a state-wide airborne LiDAR survey and vessel-based mapping, with seamless coverage from the terrestrial coast to 60 m water depth in selected sediment compartments. We explore some benefits of the new data for coastal management by comparing future shoreline change forecasts based on regional-scale and detailed seabed data

Nearshore wave buoy data from southeastern Australia for coastal research and management

Abstract Wind wave observations in shallow coastal waters are essential for calibrating, validating, and improving numerical wave models to predict sediment transport, shoreline change, and coastal hazards such as beach erosion and oceanic inundation. Although ocean buoys and satellites provide near-global coverage of deep-water wave conditions, shallow-water wave observations remain sparse and often inaccessible. Nearshore wave conditions may vary considerably alongshore due to coastline orientation and shape, bathymetry and islands. We present a growing dataset of in-situ wave buoy observations from shallow waters (<35 m) in southeast Australia that comprises over 7,000 days of measurements at 20 locations. The moored buoys measured wave conditions continuously for several months to multiple years, capturing ambient and storm conditions in diverse settings, including coastal hazard risk sites. The dataset includes tabulated time series of spectral and time-domain parameters describing wave height, period and direction at half-hourly temporal resolution. Buoy displacement and wave spectra data are also available for advanced applications. Summary plots and tables describing wave conditions measured at each location are provided