Is Cross‐Section Shape a Distinct Feature in Plant Fibre Identification?

Correct identification of textile fibres is an important issue in archaeology because the use of different materials can yield crucial information about the society that produced the textiles. Textiles made of plant and animal fibres can normally be easily distinguished, but to distinguish between different types of plant fibres, in particular different types of bast fibres, is difficult. Some years back it was shown that the features fibre diameter, lumen diameter, dislocation (nodes), and cross markings cannot be used on their own to distinguish between the typical bast fibres used for textiles in ancient Europe: flax, hemp, and nettle. Particularly not when only a few fibres are available for an examination so that statistical analysis is not possible, as is often the case in archaeology. The last two characterization features typically used to distinguish between bast fibres are cross‐section shape and lumen shape. In this paper, we present a study of retted and unretted fibres (in the stem) of flax, nettle, and hemp, and show that also cross‐section shape and lumen shape cannot be used as distinguishing features on their own.publishedVersio

First experimental evidence of hop fibres in historical textiles

Hop (Humulus lupulus) has been used in Scandinavia since at least the ninth century AD, as documented through archaeological findings and written, historical records. The written records are mainly focused on the use of cone-shaped flowers for beer brewing and medical purposes, but there are also records, for example, from the famous Swedish botanist Carl von Linne, who mentions the use of hop fibres for textile production. However, until now no experimental investigations have been published on the use of hop fibres in cultural heritage objects. A major reason for this has been the lack of a suitable characterization method. Hop is a bast fibre, just as flax and hemp and bast fibres cannot be distinguished from each other by simple optical inspection. Recently a new identification method for hop fibres was published by the authors of this article. Here we apply the new method in an investigation of two Swedish cultural heritage objects: (i) a woman’s garment from the nineteenth century, which was labelled as having an upper section made from coarse linen and a bottom section made of hemp and hop and (ii) a textile fragment from an eighteenth-century textile sample book, which was labelled as being made from hop. We show that the woman’s garment is made with hop and hemp fibres and the textile fragment from the textile sample book is made with hop. Our work provides the first direct proof that hop fibres were used for textiles in the past.publishedVersio

Spectrum and characterisation of BRCA1 and BRCA2 deleterious mutations in high-risk Czech patients with breast and/or ovarian cancer

<p>Abstract</p> <p>Background</p> <p>The incidence of breast cancer has doubled over the past 20 years in the Czech Republic. Hereditary factors may be a cause of young onset, bilateral breast or ovarian cancer, and familial accumulation of the disease. <it>BRCA1 </it>and <it>BRCA2 </it>mutations account for an important fraction of hereditary breast and ovarian cancer cases. One thousand and ten unrelated high-risk probands with breast and/or ovarian cancer were analysed for the presence of a <it>BRCA1 </it>or <it>BRCA2 </it>gene mutation at the Masaryk Memorial Cancer Institute (Czech Republic) during 1999–2006.</p> <p>Methods</p> <p>The complete coding sequences and splice sites of both genes were screened, and the presence of large intragenic rearrangements in <it>BRCA1 </it>was verified. Putative splice-site variants were analysed at the cDNA level for their potential to alter mRNA splicing.</p> <p>Results</p> <p>In 294 unrelated families (29.1% of the 1,010 probands) pathogenic mutations were identified, with 44 different <it>BRCA1 </it>mutations and 41 different <it>BRCA2 </it>mutations being detected in 204 and 90 unrelated families, respectively. In total, three <it>BRCA1 </it>founder mutations (c.5266dupC; c.3700_3704del5; p.Cys61Gly) and two <it>BRCA2 </it>founder mutations (c.7913_7917del5; c.8537_8538del2) represent 52% of all detected mutations in Czech high-risk probands. Nine putative splice-site variants were evaluated at the cDNA level. Three splice-site variants in <it>BRCA1 </it>(c.302-3C>G; c.4185G>A and c.4675+1G>A) and six splice-site variants in <it>BRCA2 </it>(c.475G>A; c.476-2>G; c.7007G>A; c.8755-1G>A; c.9117+2T>A and c.9118-2A>G) were demonstrated to result in aberrant transcripts and are considered as deleterious mutations.</p> <p>Conclusion</p> <p>This study represents an evaluation of deleterious genetic variants in the <it>BRCA1 </it>and <it>2 </it>genes in the Czech population. The classification of several splice-site variants as true pathogenic mutations may prove useful for genetic counselling of families with high risk of breast and ovarian cancer.</p

Fibres in Heritage Objects : Identification and Characterisation by Imaging Techniques

The work presented in this thesis focuses on the identification and characterisation of plant fibres from cultural heritage objects. The main emphasis is on method development (Archaeometry) in the field of optical microscopy. This has been done in three ways: i) Investigating the validity of established plant fibre identification techniques applied to historical and archaeological samples; ii) The development of an identification method for a hitherto little-regarded textile plant fibre species and iii) Application of the identification methods on cultural heritage objects. The thesis consists of five articles that are divided into the three categories listed above. The first category covers the overall methodology of how to adapt methods, that were developed for investigation on modern fibres, on archaeological materials. This is discussed in one separate article concerning questions regarding sampling, correct performing of tests as well as result evaluation of degraded sample materials that are in many ways different from the modern ones. The second article focuses on two features that have been used for the identification of fibres: the cross-section shape and the lumen shape. The application of these two features, in the investigation of cultural heritage materials, was re-evaluated. It was concluded that they cannot be used on their own as distinguishing features for plant fibres. The material resources of ancient societies differ from the modern ones. Not only the species used for commercial fibres in modern times were used for textile production in past. The identification diagrams, derived mainly from industry and forensic science, are depending on relevant species. If species that were used in past are not included, the diagrams cannot be correct. The research area for future studies is therefore huge. The second category aims to diminish this discrepancy and focus on the development of an identification method for the (in a textile context) little-regarded species hops Humulus lupulus. This work is presented in a method article, where a new identification diagram, including hops, can be found. According to various written sources, hop fibres were used for textiles in Scandinavia. This was confirmed in an experimental study which is a part of the third category, concerning the application of identification methods on cultural heritage objects. Here, in one article, the recently developed identification diagram for plant fibres, which includes the hops species was applied on historical textile samples, with results confirming that hops were used for textiles in past. The second article was about the modified Herzog test applied on degraded Viking Age and Merovingian Period objects from the Late Iron Age Collection of the University Museum of Bergen. The results showed that flax (Linum usitatissimum) was used for undergarments as well as small textile accessories at this time in western Norway

Is Cross‐Section Shape a Distinct Feature in Plant Fibre Identification?

Correct identification of textile fibres is an important issue in archaeology because the use of different materials can yield crucial information about the society that produced the textiles. Textiles made of plant and animal fibres can normally be easily distinguished, but to distinguish between different types of plant fibres, in particular different types of bast fibres, is difficult. Some years back it was shown that the features fibre diameter, lumen diameter, dislocation (nodes), and cross markings cannot be used on their own to distinguish between the typical bast fibres used for textiles in ancient Europe: flax, hemp, and nettle. Particularly not when only a few fibres are available for an examination so that statistical analysis is not possible, as is often the case in archaeology. The last two characterization features typically used to distinguish between bast fibres are cross‐section shape and lumen shape. In this paper, we present a study of retted and unretted fibres (in the stem) of flax, nettle, and hemp, and show that also cross‐section shape and lumen shape cannot be used as distinguishing features on their own

First experimental evidence of hop fibres in historical textiles

Hop (Humulus lupulus) has been used in Scandinavia since at least the ninth century AD, as documented through archaeological findings and written, historical records. The written records are mainly focused on the use of cone-shaped flowers for beer brewing and medical purposes, but there are also records, for example, from the famous Swedish botanist Carl von Linne, who mentions the use of hop fibres for textile production. However, until now no experimental investigations have been published on the use of hop fibres in cultural heritage objects. A major reason for this has been the lack of a suitable characterization method. Hop is a bast fibre, just as flax and hemp and bast fibres cannot be distinguished from each other by simple optical inspection. Recently a new identification method for hop fibres was published by the authors of this article. Here we apply the new method in an investigation of two Swedish cultural heritage objects: (i) a woman’s garment from the nineteenth century, which was labelled as having an upper section made from coarse linen and a bottom section made of hemp and hop and (ii) a textile fragment from an eighteenth-century textile sample book, which was labelled as being made from hop. We show that the woman’s garment is made with hop and hemp fibres and the textile fragment from the textile sample book is made with hop. Our work provides the first direct proof that hop fibres were used for textiles in the past