Cross-shore stratified tidal flow seaward of a mega-nourishment

The Sand Engine is a 21.5 million m3 experimental mega-nourishment project that was built in 2011 along the Dutch coast. This intervention created a discontinuity in the previous straight sandy coastline, altering the local hydrodynamics in a region that is in influenced by the buoyant plume generated by the Rhine River. This work investigates the response of the cross-shore stratified tidal flow to the coastal protrusion created by the Sand Engine emplacement by using a 13 hour velocity and density survey. Observations document the development of strong baroclinic-induced cross-shore exchange currents dictated by the intrusion of the river plume fronts as well as the classic tidal straining which are found to extend further into the nearshore (from 12 to 6m depth), otherwise believed to be a mixed zone

Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

Thirty one percent (31%) of the world’s coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance of such a mitigating measure require information on the expected evolution at time scales from storms to decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied, together with morphodynamic acceleration techniques, to obtain detailed information on this wide scale of ranges. This study shows that techniques for the acceleration of the morphological evolution can have a significant impact on the simulated evolution and dispersion of sandy interventions. A calibrated Delft3D model of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment is applied to compare different acceleration techniques, focusing on accuracy and computational times. Results show that acceleration techniques using representative (schematized) wave conditions are not capable of accurately reproducing the morphological response in the first two years. The best reproduction of the morphological behavior of the first five years is obtained by the brute force simulations. Applying input filtering and a compression factor provides similar accuracy yet with a factor five gain in computational cost. An attractive method for the medium to long time scales, which further reduces computational costs, is a method that uses representative wave conditions based on gross longshore transports, while showing similar results as the benchmark simulation. Erosional behavior is captured well in all considered techniques with variations in volumes of about 1 million m 3 after three decades. The spatio-temporal variability of the predicted alongshore and cross-shore distribution of the morphological evolution however have a strong dependency on the selected acceleration technique. A new technique, called ’brute force merged’, which incorporates the full variability of the wave climate, provides the optimal combination of phenomenological accuracy and computational efficiency (a factor of 20 faster than the benchmark brute force technique) at both the short and medium to long time scales. This approach, which combines realistic time series and the mormerge technique, provides an attractive and flexible method to efficiently predict the evolution of complex sandy interventions at time scales from hours to decades

Morphodynamic Acceleration Techniques for Multi-Timescale Predictions of Complex Sandy Interventions

Thirty one percent (31%) of the world's coastline consists of sandy beaches and dunes that form a natural defense protecting the hinterland from flooding. A common measure to mitigate erosion along sandy beaches is the implementation of sand nourishments. The design and acceptance of such a mitigating measure require information on the expected evolution at time scales from storms to decades. Process-based morphodynamic models are increasingly applied, together with morphodynamic acceleration techniques, to obtain detailed information on this wide scale of ranges. This study shows that techniques for the acceleration of the morphological evolution can have a significant impact on the simulated evolution and dispersion of sandy interventions. A calibrated Delft3D model of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment is applied to compare different acceleration techniques, focusing on accuracy and computational times. Results show that acceleration techniques using representative (schematized) wave conditions are not capable of accurately reproducing the morphological response in the first two years. The best reproduction of the morphological behavior of the first five years is obtained by the brute force simulations. Applying input filtering and a compression factor provides similar accuracy yet with a factor five gain in computational cost. An attractive method for the medium to long time scales, which further reduces computational costs, is a method that uses representative wave conditions based on gross longshore transports, while showing similar results as the benchmark simulation. Erosional behavior is captured well in all considered techniques with variations in volumes of about 1 million m 3 after three decades. The spatio-temporal variability of the predicted alongshore and cross-shore distribution of the morphological evolution however have a strong dependency on the selected acceleration technique. A new technique, called 'brute force merged', which incorporates the full variability of the wave climate, provides the optimal combination of phenomenological accuracy and computational efficiency (a factor of 20 faster than the benchmark brute force technique) at both the short and medium to long time scales. This approach, which combines realistic time series and the mormerge technique, provides an attractive and flexible method to efficiently predict the evolution of complex sandy interventions at time scales from hours to decades

Data and analysis of SandMotor benthos

This dataset contains the R scripts, as well as the raw and intermediate data, used in the analysis of changes in the benthic life on and around the Sand Motor between 2010 and 2017

Multi-decadal shoreline change in coastal natural world heritage sites – a global assessment

Natural World Heritage Sites (NWHS), which are of Outstanding Universal Value, are increasingly threatened by natural and anthropogenic pressures. This is especially true for coastal NWHS, which are additionally subject to erosion and flooding. This paper assesses shoreline change from 1984 to 2016 within the boundaries of 67 designated sites, providing a first global consistent assessment of its drivers. It develops a transferable methodology utilising new satellite-derived global shoreline datasets, which are classified based on linearity of change against time and compared with global datasets of geomorphology (topography, land cover, coastal type, and lithology), climate variability and sea-level change. Significant shoreline change is observed on 14% of 52 coastal NWHS shorelines that show the largest recessional and accretive trends (means of −3.4 m yr−1 and 3.5 m yr−1, respectively). These rapid shoreline changes are found in low-lying shorelines (<1 m elevation) composed of unconsolidated sediments in vegetated tidal coastal systems (means of −7.7 m yr−1 and 12.5 m yr−1), and vegetated tidal deltas at the mouth of large river systems (means of −6.9 m yr−1 and 11 m yr−1). Extreme shoreline changes occur as a result of redistribution of sediment driven by a combination of geomorphological conditions with (1) specific natural coastal morphodynamics such as opening of inlets (e.g. Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve) or gradients of alongshore sediment transport (e.g. Namib Sea) and (2) direct or indirect human interferences with natural coastal processes such as sand nourishment (e.g. Wadden Sea) and damming of river sediments upstream of a delta (e.g. Danube Delta). The most stable soft coasts are associated with the protection of coral reef ecosystems (e.g. Great Barrier Reef) which may be degraded/destroyed by climate change or human stress in the future. A positive correlation between shoreline retreat and local relative sea-level change was apparent in the Wadden Sea. However, globally, the effects of contemporary sea-level rise are not apparent for coastal NWHS, but it is a major concern for the future reinforcing the shoreline dynamics already being observed due to other drivers. Hence, future assessments of shoreline change need to account for other drivers of coastal change in addition to sea-level rise projections. In conclusion, extreme multi-decadal linear shoreline trends occur in coastal NWHS and are driven primarily by sediment redistribution. Future exacerbation of these trends may affect heritage values and coastal communities. Thus shoreline change should be considered in future management plans where necessary. This approach provides a consistent method to assess NWHS which can be repeated and help steer future management of these important sites