21 research outputs found

    Geometric Entropy for Lead vs Top-Rope Rock Climbing

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    International Journal of Exercise Science 9(2): 168-174, 2016. The complexity of movement of a rock climber’s center of mass during an ascent has been described as geometric entropy (GE). It has been proposed that lower geometric entropy could represent more fluid and economical movement during climbing. The purpose of the present study was to measure GE during rock climbing ascents under a lead condition (LD), where the climber connects a safety rope to several intermediate anchors during the ascent and under a top-rope condition (TR), where the safety rope is always anchored above the climber. Six experienced rock climbers volunteered to participate in the study. Each participant ascended a route on natural rock outdoors under three conditions. The first ascent was performed in a top-rope condition as an accommodation trial. The two remaining ascents were performed as LD and top-rope (TR2) in random order. Each LD and TR2 ascent was recorded via digital video at 30 Hz. A single point at the back center of each climber’s waist harness was manually digitized from the video images at 6 Hz and interpreted as the climber’s center of mass (CM). The displacement of CM was expressed as the line of motion (LM). Geometric Entropy (GE) was calculated as GE = ln((2∙LM)/CH)), where CH was the value of the convex hull about the LM. A within subjects, repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni post hoc testing was utilized to test for differences among ascent conditions with significance set at P \u3c0.05. Mean (±s.d) values for LM and GE were 81.5±11.3 m vs 77.6±7.3 m and 1.021±0.133 vs 0.924±0.062 for LD and TR2 respectively. There were no significant differences for LM and GE between ascent conditions. It was concluded that LM and GE do not vary between LD and TR ascent conditions

    Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

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    The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past 3 decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers’ characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis

    Point-of-care ultrasound in geriatrics: a national survey of VA medical centers

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    Abstract Background Point-of-care ultrasound (POCUS) can aid geriatricians in caring for complex, older patients. Currently, there is limited literature on POCUS use by geriatricians. We conducted a national survey to assess current POCUS use, training desired, and barriers among Geriatrics and Extended Care (“geriatric”) clinics at Veterans Affairs Medical Centers (VAMCs). Methods We conducted a prospective observational study of all VAMCs between August 2019 and March 2020 using a web-based survey sent to all VAMC Chiefs of Staff and Chiefs of geriatric clinics. Results All Chiefs of Staff (n=130) completed the survey (100% response rate). Chiefs of geriatric clinics (“chiefs”) at 76 VAMCs were surveyed and 52 completed the survey (68% response rate). Geriatric clinics were located throughout the United States, mostly at high-complexity, urban VAMCs. Only 15% of chiefs responded that there was some POCUS usage in their geriatric clinic, but more than 60% of chiefs would support the implementation of POCUS use. The most common POCUS applications used in geriatric clinics were the evaluation of the bladder and urinary obstruction. Barriers to POCUS use included a lack of trained providers (56%), ultrasound equipment (50%), and funding for training (35%). Additionally, chiefs reported time utilization, clinical indications, and low patient census as barriers. Conclusions POCUS has several potential applications for clinicians caring for geriatric patients. Though only 15% of geriatric clinics at VAMCs currently use POCUS, most geriatric chiefs would support implementing POCUS use as a diagnostic tool. The greatest barriers to POCUS implementation in geriatric clinics were a lack of training and ultrasound equipment. Addressing these barriers systematically can facilitate implementation of POCUS use into practice and permit assessment of the impact of POCUS on geriatric care in the future

    Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

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    International audienceThe research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in t he information provided by researchers regarding the climbers' characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis
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