Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers

Summary – Twenty-eight participants were divided into three groups: control (n=10), sport climbers (n=9) and boulderers (n=9) to investigate the determinants of grip strength between climbing disciplines. Forearm volume (FAV) was measured using water displacement method. Maximal volitional contraction (MVC) was assessed using an open crimp grip on a climbing specific fingerboard apparatus. There were no significant differences in FAV between disciplines. However, there was a significant main effect for MVC and MVC/FAV across all groups. Boulderers had higher MVC than sport (MD=7.5 CI=1.8-13.2) and controls (MD=17.7 CI= 11.9-23.6) and sport climbers was higher than controls (MD= 10.2 CI = 4.5-15.9. The findings suggest that the greater MVC seen in boulderers and sport climbers may be a result of neural adaptations, not muscular hypertrophy

Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance

Abstract: Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3–5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35–0.94, Adj R2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance

Prediction of posttraumatic stress.

<p>Associations between four predictors and individual differences in baseline IES scores and rate of change in IES scores given as standardized regression coefficients (β) taken from latent growth model (<i>n</i> = 857, df = 43).</p

Longitudinal model describing linear change of Impact of Event Scale total mean scores, estimated trajectories are shown for different combinations of age and sex.

<p>Longitudinal model describing linear change of Impact of Event Scale total mean scores, estimated trajectories are shown for different combinations of age and sex.</p

Impact of Event Scale total mean scores and proportion above cut-off score from 3 months up to 36 months post-loss.

<p>Impact of Event Scale total mean scores and proportion above cut-off score from 3 months up to 36 months post-loss.</p

Posttraumatic stress among not-exposed traumatically bereaved relatives after the MS Estonia disaster

Background: Little is known about posttraumatic stress (PTS) reactions in bereaved individuals following loss in disaster who were not directly exposed to disaster. The aim of the present study was to examine the course of PTS up to three years after losing relatives in the MS Estonia ferry disaster, one of the worst maritime disasters in modern times. Methods: Seven postal surveys were sent out over three years post-disaster. The respondents were invited and added consecutively during the three years and 938 relatives participated in one or more of the surveys, representing 89% of the MS Estonia's Swedish victims. The survey included the Impact of Event Scale (IES) to measure PTS. Latent growth curve modeling was used to analyze PTS over time. Results: The majority of bereaved individuals had high levels of PTS. At three years post-loss, 62% of the respondents scored above the recommended cut-off value on the IES. Over time, PTS symptoms declined, but initially high symptoms of PTS were associated with a slower recovery rate. Conclusion: The present finding suggests that being an indirectly-exposed disaster-bereaved close-relative can lead to very high levels of PTS which are sustained for several years