Some aspects of fabric drape

Drape is one of the important factors influencing the aesthetics and functionality of fabrics. Therefore, investigation into drape parameters is important for analysing its behaviour. Drape parameters were investigated from different aspects using the Cusick Drape meter and Image Analyser. Firstly, the influence of time on the drape coefficient and number of folds was studied over 24 hours. Usually, drape is considered as a static, time-independent problem. However, this investigation shows that the drape coefficient of a fabric changes si-gnificantly over a longer time period. Furthermore, the comparison of drape parameters is shown using samples with two different diameters. The larger samples have smaller drape coefficient than those with smaller diameters, and their drape is less changeable over time. Basically, the three-dimensional fabric drape is not an independent fabric property, there-fore, the connection between bending rigidity and drapecoefficient was studied. The last aspect of this investigation was the repeatability of drape measurements, and the establish-ment of the required number of measurements for drape coefficient and fold numbers

Chapter Applying Heat for Joining Textile Materials

The middle of the last century presents the beginning of a wide use of heat technologies for joining of the textile materials. Up to now, adhesive bonding/fusing of textile materials by application of heat and pressure during the determinate time has become a wide‐use technology for manufacturing numerous kinds of textile products, such as outdoor and sport garments, underwear, swimming suits, medical gowns, toys, and automotive seating fabrics. Fusing and welding technologies of textiles represent today a significant competition to traditional sewing, because the technological process is quick and energy efficient. The welding and fusing of textiles represent a great opportunity for providing a good performance as well as aesthetic appearance. New types of fusing/welding machines with high technological solutions regarding the functions, low energy consumptions, and environmental‐friendly effects are placed on the market. This chapter presents fusing, hot air and hot wedge welding techniques, suitable for joining of textile materials. The theoretical background and fundamental working principles of the equipment for each technology are presented in the first part of the chapter. Special attention is given to presentation of thermoplastic adhesives, textile substrates for fusible interlinings, and welding tapes. Next, the fusing/welding methods and their parameters are described, and the methods for quality evaluation of fused/welded panels are presented. The effect of fusing/welding parameters, selected methods depending on applied fabrics, fusible interlinings and welding tapes, and used fusing/welding machines are discussed separately. Factors effecting the quality of fused and hot air/wedge welded panels are supported with latest scientific findings. The advantages and disadvantages of the presented techniques are discussed together with the applications areas of each of the presented techniques. The new application opportunities are also highlighted at the end of the chapter

CASP Methodology for Virtual Prototyping of Garments for People with Postural Disorders and Spinal Deformities

“Nobody is Perfect” is a phrase we often hear and use for different purposes. It can relate to our physical appearances or behavioral properties. A great share of the world’s population is faced with difficulties caused by postural disorders and spinal deformities. In our chapter we are not dealing with medical points of view. Instead, our intention is to highlight the problems and needs of affected people for suitable, well-fitted, and attractive garments. It is a fact that they need clothing items, not only for everyday use but also for special, festive occasions and sports. Finding suitable garments can be a nightmare for them. Normally, ready-made garments cannot be used if the postural disorders and spinal deformities are very expressive. Therefore, an individual approach is needed for planning, designing, and producing such garments. We propose virtual prototyping and CASP methodology for analyzing digitized geometry supported by computer-aided pattern designs for designing suitable, well-fitted garments for people with postural disorders and spinal deformities. “CASP” stands for Curvature, Acceleration, Symmetry, and Proportionality. It is used for methodology to analyze those four properties on surfaces in a virtual computer environment, as explained further on

Applying Heat for Joining Textile Materials

The middle of the last century presents the beginning of a wide use of heat technologies for joining of the textile materials. Up to now, adhesive bonding/fusing of textile materials by application of heat and pressure during the determinate time has become a wide‐use technology for manufacturing numerous kinds of textile products, such as outdoor and sport garments, underwear, swimming suits, medical gowns, toys, and automotive seating fabrics. Fusing and welding technologies of textiles represent today a significant competition to traditional sewing, because the technological process is quick and energy efficient. The welding and fusing of textiles represent a great opportunity for providing a good performance as well as aesthetic appearance. New types of fusing/welding machines with high technological solutions regarding the functions, low energy consumptions, and environmental‐friendly effects are placed on the market. This chapter presents fusing, hot air and hot wedge welding techniques, suitable for joining of textile materials. The theoretical background and fundamental working principles of the equipment for each technology are presented in the first part of the chapter. Special attention is given to presentation of thermoplastic adhesives, textile substrates for fusible interlinings, and welding tapes. Next, the fusing/welding methods and their parameters are described, and the methods for quality evaluation of fused/welded panels are presented. The effect of fusing/welding parameters, selected methods depending on applied fabrics, fusible interlinings and welding tapes, and used fusing/welding machines are discussed separately. Factors effecting the quality of fused and hot air/wedge welded panels are supported with latest scientific findings. The advantages and disadvantages of the presented techniques are discussed together with the applications areas of each of the presented techniques. The new application opportunities are also highlighted at the end of the chapter

3D virtual prototyping of a ski jumpsuit based on a reconstructed body scan model

3D virtual prototyping become a topic of increasing interest of both computer graphics and computer-aided design for apparel production. These technologies are especially important when a garment prototype should be developed for a special purpose, such as ski-jumper suit. Namely, shape and size of a jumpsuit need to be individually adapted to each ski-jumper according to the exact requirements set by FIS (Fédereation Internationale de Ski). The FIS requirements change annually or even more often in order to assure ski-jumpers\u27 safety during competitive ski jumps. The conventional body measurement technique and development of ski-jumpers pattern are time consuming. In order to develop an accurate and rapid design, as well as an adaptable and quickly changeable jumpsuit, different modern technologies were used. The obtained virtual prototypes of a skijumper and a jumpsuit enable both - fast re-modelling according to FIS rules and expeditious development and/or simulations of a jumpsuit. All these measures are taken to improve the aerodynamic design of a suit and jumper\u27s result. The body scanning technology represents a great potential for textile industries and above all for producers of garments. It enables fast and reliable capture of 3D body data and extraction of precise measurements needed for design, construction, visualisation and animation of garments on virtual mannequins. However, there are also some problems related to the scanned body models, caused by the scanning technique. In this article we are discussing the techniques for reconstruction of the body models and its results using the example from one of the competitive sports clothing - ski-jumper suit. In our study we have used different computer graphics programmes in order to reconstruct and prepare the 3D body scan model for successfully importing it into OptiTex CAD programme. The aim of this research was to enable effective 3D virtual garment prototyping using the reconstructed body scan model

Textile Forms’ Computer Simulation Techniques

Computer simulation techniques of textile forms already represent an important tool for textile and garment designers, since they offer numerous advantages, such as quick and simple introduction of changes while developing a model in comparison with conventional techniques. Therefore, the modeling and simulation of textile forms will always be an important issue and challenge for the researchers, since close‐to‐reality models are essential for understanding the performance and behavior of textile materials. This chapter deals with computer simulation of different textile forms. In the introductory part, it reviews the development of complex modeling and simulation techniques related to different textile forms. The main part of the chapter focuses on study of the fabric and fused panel drape by using the finite element method and on development of some representative textile forms, above all, on functional and protective clothing for persons who are sitting during performing different activities. Computer simulation techniques and scanned 3D body models in a sitting posture are used for this purpose. Engineering approaches to textile forms’ design for particular purposes, presented in this chapter, show benefits and limitations of specific 3D body scanning and computer simulation techniques and outline the future research challenges

Sigurnosna prilagođenost kuhinjskog namještaja starijim osobama

The number of senior citizens is rapidly increasing, which consequently signifi es an increase in the number of people having sight, hearing or memory diffi culties, people with hampered mobility, and people who find it increasingly diffi cult to process information. Elderly persons experience a greater degree of risk whilst performing daily tasks in their kitchens. Moreover, they are more susceptible to infection and illnesses, necessitating greater care to achieve hygienic conditions within their kitchens. The goal of our research was to determine whether people are generally content with the functionality of their kitchens and whether the degree of dissatisfaction increases with the age of the users. The study aims to pinpoint any major problems facing elderly people whilst working in their kitchens and to establish criteria for kitchen furniture design that could be tailored to senior users’ interests, with the focus on safety. This research was carried out via individual surveys at the respondents’ homes. 204 respondents participated in the research. The results show that most users do not realize that, with more appropriate kitchen equipment, they could perform daily tasks faster, safer, and with less effort. Common shortcomings include insuffi cient lighting (32 %), inappropriate sequential composition of work surfaces (56 %), ease of hygiene maintenance (68 %), inappropriately - shaped furniture (72 %), and tasks that become troublesome because of declining memory (75 %). We believe that it is necessary to design kitchen equipment specifically adjusted for the needs of the elderly.Udjel starijih osoba u stanovništvu u enormnom je porastu, slijedom čega se povećava broj ljudi koji imaju slabiji vid, sluh, memoriju, fizičke probleme i probleme s percipiranjem informacija. Stariji su zbog toga osjetljiviji na ozljede, koje mogu nastati pri obavljanju svakodnevnih poslova u kuhinji. Osim toga, za njihovu je sigurnost važno voditi brigu o higijenskim standardima jer su osjetljiviji na infekcije i bolesti. Cilj ovog istraživanja bio je utvrditi jesu li ljudi zadovoljni funkcionalnošću njihove kuhinje i osjećaju li se sigurno te raste li nezadovoljstvo kuhinjom sa starošću korisnika. Željeli smo identificirati probleme s kojima se pri radu u kuhinji suočavaju stariji ljudi i utvrditi kriterije za izradu kuhinjskog namještaja prilagođenoga starijim ljudima u smislu sigurnosti. Istraživanje je provedeno putem osobnih intervjua u domu ispitanika. U istraživanju su sudjelovala 204 ispitanika. Rezultati istraživanja pokazuju kako ljudi ne znaju da bi uz prikladniju opremu brže, lakše i sigurnije mogli obavljati svakodnevne zadatke. Starije osobe u kuhinji prije svega imaju probleme s održavanjem higijene – 68 %, s neodgovarajućim rasporedom kuhinjskih centara – 56 %, s neadekvatnom rasvjetom – 32 %, s nepropisno dizajniranim namještajem – 72 %, s problemima slabijeg pamćenja – 75 %. Vjerujemo da je potrebno projektirati kuhinjski namještaj prilagođen specifičnim zahtjevima starijih osoba

Designing the Myth: Pattern Language to Assist with the Designing of Garments at the Drawing Stage Oblikovanje mita: jezikovni vzorci kot pomoč pri oblikovanju oblačil v fazi risanja

Abstract This article presents and introduces a new approach for researching into fashion, textile and clothing design. Following Christopher Alexander's understanding of a pattern language the aim is to present and propose a pattern language which assists with the visualisations and designs of garments that use narrative, non-visual forms as forms of inspiration. To visualise the descriptions of the Slovenian mythological creatures, a guided method for designing the garments was developed, based on fashion design practice and different proposed mythological patterns. Furthermore, the design components during the drawing process were defined and analysed. The above-mentioned type of research is important in order to better understand the phases in the design process during drawing. On the basis of the gained results it can be concluded that the proposed pattern language and the guided method have great potential for creating new interdisciplinary knowledge. This developed method for visualising garments' forms was tested on Slovenian mythological creatures but it could be used with any written texts. Moreover the method can also be used for educational purposes and further research into fashion design processes because it provides a classified environment that can be easily observed, analysed, and discussed

Oblikovanje mita: jezikovni vzorci kot pomoč pri oblikovanju oblačil v fazi risanja

This article presents and introduces a new approach for researching into fashion, textile and clothing design. Following Christopher Alexander’s understanding of a pattern language the aim is to present and propose a pattern language which assists with the visualisations and designs of garments that use narrative, non-visual forms as forms of inspiration. To visualise the descriptions of the Slovenian mythological creatures, a guided method for designing the garments was developed, based on fashion design practice and different proposed mythological patterns. Furthermore, the design components during the drawing process were defined and analysed. The above-mentioned type of research is important in order to better understand the phases in the design process during drawing. On the basis of the gained results it can be concluded that the proposed pattern language and the guided method have great potential for creating new interdisciplinary knowledge. This developed method for visualising garments’ forms was tested on Slovenian mythological creatures but it could be used with any written texts. Moreover the method can also be used for educational purposes and further research into fashion design processes because it provides a classified environment that can be easily observed, analysed, and discussed.Članek uvaja nov pristop k raziskovanju mode, oblikovanja tekstilij in oblačil. Raziskava sledi razumevanju Christopherja Alexandra o jezikovnih vzorcih in uvaja jezikovne vzorce, ki omogočajo vizualizacijo in oblikovanje oblačil v primerih, ko je oblikovalsko izhodišče pripovedna in nevizualna oblika inspiracije. Za vizualizacijo opisov slovenskih mitoloških bitij je bila razvita vodena metoda, ki temelji na oblikovalskem procesu in različnih mitoloških vzorcih. V članku so opredeljeni in analizirani procesi, ki se pojavijo v fazi risanja. Predstavljena raziskava osvetljuje razumevanje procesov pri oblikovanju oblačil v fazi načrtovanja risbe. Na podlagi pridobljenih rezultatov je mogoče sklepati, da imajo predlagani jezikovni vzorci in vodena metoda velik potencial za ustvarjanje novih interdisciplinarnih znanj. Razvita metoda je bila testirana na slovenskih mitoloških bitjih, vendar je lahko uporabljena pri vseh virih, ki temeljijo na pripovedni, nevizualni obliki. Prav tako se lahko predstavljena metoda uporablja za izobraževalne namene in nove raziskave v modnem oblikovanju, saj zagotavlja standardizirano okolje, katerega je mogoče opazovati in analizirati