Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers

Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS...Název: Efekt ponořování předloktí do studené vody na opakované izometrické kontrakce flexorů prstů do vyčerpání u sportovních lezců Cíle: Cílem této studie bylo posoudit akutní účinky ponořování do studené vody na opakovaný intermitentní izometrický výkon do vyčerpání u skupiny sportovních lezců. Metody: Třicet dva lezců (15 mužů a 17 žen) provedlo tři opakované intermitentní izometrické výkony do vyčerpání na specifickém dynamometru během tří návštěv laboratoře. Během každé návštěvy byla využita jiná zotavná procedura mezi výkony: pasivní odpočinek (PAS), ponořování do studené vody 8 řC (CWI 8) a ponořování do studené vody 15 řC (CWI 15). Pro hodnocení výkonu byl využit integrál síly dle času (FTI). Pro sledování hemodynamických změn byl použit index tkáňové saturace (TSI) a celkový hemoglobin (tHb) během jednotlivých kontrakcí z blízké- infračervené spektroskopie (NIRS). Vliv tří typů zotavení a jeho opakování na tři opakované intermitentní výkony do vyčerpání, odvozené parametry NIRS byl hodnocen pomocí ANOVY s opakovaným měřením s využitím Bonferroniho korekce. Výsledky: Nebyl nalezen významný rozdíl v FTI a parametrech odvozených z NIRS při prvním opakování izometrického výkonu mezi jednotlivými návštěvami. Při opakování výkonu s PAS došlo k poklesu o 10 % a 20 % v FTI během druhého a třetího...Sporty v příroděFakulta tělesné výchovy a sportuFaculty of Physical Education and Spor

Shoulder Girdle Strength And Finger Flexor Strength In Prediction Of Performance In Female Rock Climbers

Cíl. Cílem studie bylo objasnit vztah síly pletence ramenního a flexorů prstů k lezeckému výkonu u sportovních lezkyň. Metody. Dvacet jedna žen se zúčastnilo šesti lezeckých testů zaměřených na sílu flexorů prstů a pletence ramenního: vis na liště, maximální síla v otevřeném úchopu, výdrž ve shybu na jedné ruce, výdrž ve shybu na obou rukách, diagonální přesah, vertikální přesah. Vztah jednotlivých testů k lezecké výkonnosti RP (Red point) byl hodnocen pomocí koeficientu determinace. Relativní síla jednotlivých testů k lezecké výkonnosti RP byla posuzována lineární regresní analýzou. Výsledky. Největší část variability lezecké výkonnosti RP vysvětlovaly testy: diagonální přesah (R2 = 0,76), vertikální přesah (0,74) a výdrž ve visu (0,72). U testu diagonální přesah byla nalezena vysoká reliabilita ve smyslu vnitřní konzistence (vnitrotřídní korelační koeficient, levá 0,98; pravá 0,97) a kriteriální validita (r = 0,87). Regresní analýza ukázala, že test vertikální přesah má nejvyšší relativní sílu ze všech uvedených testů. Závěry. Studie představila nový specificky lezecký test diagonální přesah. Bylo zjištěno, že test má vysokou reliabilitu a validitu, a proto ho lze využívat jako diagnostický nástroj pro posouzení statické síly pletence ramenního ve sportovním lezení. Síla pletence ramenního se ukazuje jako nezbytná pro zvyšování výkonnosti žen ve sportovním lezení.The aim of this study was to evaluate the relationship between the rock-climbing performance and the strength of finger flexors and shoulder girdle muscles in female rock climbers. Twenty-one female climbers completed six specific climbing tests focused on finger flexor and shoulder girdle muscles strength: finger hang, maximal strength in open crimp, bent arm hang on one arm, bent arm hang on two arms, diagonal reach, power slap. The relationship to the climbing performance RP (Red point) was assessed by a coefficient of determination. Linear regression analysis was used to determine the relative contribution of the test’s strength in the model. Results. Diagonal reach (R2 = 0.76), power slap (0.74) and finger hang (0.72) explained the greatest part of climber’s performance variability. The test diagonal reach showed high consistency (intra-class correlation coefficient, left 0.98; right 0.97). The greatest relative strength in the regression linear model was power slap. Conclusion. This study introduced a new specific climbing test diagonal reach. It was found that this test has a high reliability and criterion validity and is to assess static shoulder girdle strength in rock climbers. It was shown that shoulder girdle strength is an important factor for achieving high performance in female rock climbers

The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing

The aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes whilst clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline, adrenaline, dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 minutes post climbing were assessed using a 2x3 repeated measures ANOVA. All hormones and blood lactate concentrations increased significantly (p < 0.05) immediately post climb, except for cortisol. Peak cortisol concentrations did not occur until 15 min post ascent. Further, significant interactions between climbing and clipping conditions were found for total catecholamines (890% of basal concentration in PRO-½ vs. 568% in PRO-all), noradrenaline (794% vs. 532%) and dopamine (500% vs. 210%). There were no significant interactions for adrenaline (1920% vs 1045%), serotonin (150% vs 127%), or lactate (329% vs 279%). The study showed a greater catecholamine response with an increase in potential lead fall distance. The most pronounced increases seen in catecholamine concentration were reported for dopamine and noradrenaline

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P < .05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers

Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers

Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS..

Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers

Title: Effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contractions to failure in rock climbers Objectives: The aim of this study was to determine the effect of cold water immersion on intermittent isometric forearm flexor contraction to failure in rock climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (15 male and 17 female) completed three intermittent trials to failure, on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer, on three separate visits to the laboratory. For each visit a different recovery strategy was employed: passive recovery (PAS), cold water immersion at 8 řC (CWI 8) or 15 řC (CWI 15). The force time integral (FTI - time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess intermittent performance. The tissue saturation index (TSI) and total haemoglobin (tHb) during isometric contractions from near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) were determined to assess hemodynamic changes. Differences between repeated trials and three recovery protocols, derived parameters NIRS, were assessed using repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni corrections. Results: There was no significant difference between conditions after trial one. In response to the PAS recovery condition there was a 10% and 22% decrease in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS..

Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers

Title: Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers. Methods: Twenty-one women (age 24,5 ± 2,7 years, body weight 59,5 ± 8,3 kg, height 166,4 ± 6 cm) and twenty-five men (age 26,9 ± 5,3 years, body weight 71,7 ± 7,7 kg, height 177,2 ± 5,3 cm) volunteered to be a part of the study. The RP performance varied from the 3rd to 10th degree UIAA (Union International des Assocoation d'Alpinisme) scale. A specially manufactured tool was used to measure the finger flexor force with different positions of an arm. During the study, measurements were taken as the arm was adjusted into four different positions: Handgrip (0ř shoulder and elbow in full extension), Flexion90 (90ř shoulder flexion and external rotation of 45ř and the elbow in 90ř flexion supported by a board), Flexion130 (the arm 130ř abduction and elbow flexion 50ř) and Flexion180 (180ř shoulder flexion and elbow in full extension). The open grip was used for all positions, except for the Handgrip position where the thumb was in opposition. Results: The highest relation between the relative strength and RP climbing performance was found in the Flexion130 (r = 0,81) in women and in Flexion180 (r =..

Effect of climbing ability on energy expenditure of climbing

The aim of the study was to evaluate the relation between climbing performance and energy demands while climbing through a specific submaximal test. The sample consisted of twenty-six climbers (age 26,8 ± 3,3 years, weight 70,6 ± 6,2 kg, height 177,6 ± 6,5 cm). Climbers were deliberately chosen so that their performance covers as much scale difficulty of UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) as possible. The performance was given by the climbers currently the highest ascent in the style of RP (Red Point). Performance of these climbers ranged between 4 to 10 degrees UIAA. Climbers were subjected to submaximal climbing test, which lasted three minutes in one slope. They moved at a constant speed of 25 movements. min-1 on climbing route, already known in advance, the slope after 3 minutes changed from 90 ř to 105 ř. VO2 (oxygen consumption), SF (heart rate) and VE (minute ventilation) significantly correlated with climbing performance of RP (90ř, VO2, r = - 0,82; SF, r = -0,66, VE, r = - 0,77; 105ř, VO2, r = - 0,84; SF, r = -0,78; VE, r = - 0,80 ). Respiratory rate during submaximal climb was about 25 breaths. min-1, which refers to a link with a climbing speed. VO2 during submaximal climbing can be used to evaluate the economy of movement. Keywords sport climbing, submaximal test,..