Design opportunities for wearable devices in learning to climb

In this paper, we present a field study on the learning of climbing aimed at defining the design space of wearable devices to support beginners. Three main findings have emerged from our study. First, climbing has a strong emotional impact on beginners; therefore, learning to climb requires mastering new motor patterns as well as negative emotions, such as stress and fear. Second, the feeling of danger that climbers often experience can be mitigated by trust in the climbing partner and the perception of her active presence. Finally, a big problem in climbing is the communication difficulty between the climbing partners and between climber and instructor. We conclude the paper presenting four design considerations for the design of wearable devices meant to support the learning of climbing by providing the actors involved with augmented communication. Such augmented communication should address both the physical and the emotional difficulties of this sport

Emoções, “stress”, ansiedade e “coping": estudo qualitativo com treinadores de nível internacional

A influência dos fatores e processos psicológicos no desempenho desportivo dos atletas está, de uma forma geral, amplamente demonstrada; todavia, poucas investigações procuraram estudar esta relação nos treinadores. Neste sentido, empregando uma entrevista semi-estruturada, a presente investigação procurou, junto de seis treinadores de elite com idades compreendidas entre os 55 e os 63 anos (M = 59 ± 3,03) de diversas modalidades, identificar as características/competências psicológicas mais importantes para o sucesso desportivo, as principais fontes de “stress” e ansiedade experienciadas e as estratégias de “coping” a que recorriam em situações estressantes e/ou problemáticas, adicionalmente, pretendeu explorar o papel de outras emoções no seu desempenho. Os resultados revelaram que: 1) a motivação era uma das competências/características psicológicas percepcionadas pelos treinadores como mais importantes para o sucesso; 2) as principais fontes de “stress” estavam relacionadas com preocupações com o desempenho dos atletas, sendo comuns a diferentes modalidades; 3) os treinadores recorriam a diversas estratégias de “coping” em simultâneo, geralmente adaptativas; e 4) para além da ansiedade, outras emoções, positivas e negativas, pareciam influenciar o desempenho dos treinadores.Fundação para a Ciência e Tecnologia (FCT

A theory of challenge and threat states in athletes

We propose a Theory of Challenge and Threat States in Athletes (TCTSA) which is an amalgamation and extension of the biopsychosocial model of challenge and threat, the model of adaptive approaches to competition and the debilitative and facilitative competitive state anxiety model. In the TCTSA we posit that selfefficacy, perceptions of control, and achievement goals determine challenge or threat states in response to competition. Distinct patterns of neuroendocrine and cardiovascular responses are indicative of a challenge or threat state. Increases in epinephrine and cardiac activity, and a decrease in total peripheral vascular resistance (TPR) characterise a challenge state and increases in cortisol, smaller increases in cardiac activity and either no change or an increase in TPR characterise a threat state. Positive and negative emotions can occur in a challenge state while a threat state is associated with negative emotions only. Emotions are perceived as helpful to performance in a challenge state but not in a threat state. Challenge and threat states influence effort, attention, decision?making and physical functioning and accordingly sport performance. The TCTSA provides a framework for practitioners to enhance performance, through developing a challenge state, and encourages researchers to explore the mechanisms underlying performance in competition