Historical textile dyeing with Genista tinctoria L.:a comprehensive study by UPLC-MS/MS analysis

Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and historical yarns dyed with this species. Several so far unreported dye components that could assist with the identification of this dye source, were characterised by MS/MS. Furthermore, the effect of photo-degradation and textile preparation techniques (such as over-dyeing) on the dye fingerprint was investigated and the results correlated with those obtained from historical samples from the Burrell and Bodleian collections, UK

Restauração e conservação: algumas questões para os conservadores. A perspectiva da conservação de têxteis

O texto discute as idéias e diferentes conotações que os conceitos de conservação e restauração trazem em diferentes idiomas e culturas e as possíveis mudanças conceituais ocorridas nos últimos anos. São discutidas as diferenças de abordagem, procedimentos e objetivos que as duas atividades apresentam, sempre do ponto de vista da conservação de têxteis. Vários exemplos de abordagens distintas, desenvolvidas em função dos tratamentos de têxteis de diferentes naturezas são discutidos em detalhe