Educação Capitalista: um produto rentável na sociedade contemporânea

O presente artigo tem como objetivo pensar a educação superior do estado de São Paulo diante do influente sistema capitalista. O modo como ele vem modelando práticas educativas no ensino superior é uma questão crítica devido a ‘’coisificação’’ do ser em prol da manutenção dos ideais do capitalismo. O ponto de partida para tal reflexão inicia-se sob os pilares da educação grega, perpassando pela modernização da educação ocidental durante a revolução industrial que por fim, culmina em questões atuais sobre a comercialização do ensino superior. Para fundamentar algumas indagações contemporâneas, serão utilizadas como referencial teórico dados disponibilizados pelo Instituto Nacional de Ensino e Pesquisa – INEP, referente ao número de cursos de graduação presencial no estado de São Paulo, assim como, a quantidade de matrículas efetuadas por alunos do sexo masculino e feminino, além da quantidade de concluintes dentre os mesmos durante o período de 1991 a 2015. A conclusão substancial desse exercício reflexivo evidencia que desde os primórdios da educação grega, o sistema educacional, apesar de apresentar uma proposta humanística e integral, era acessível somente aos nobres. Durante a revolução industrial a educação passou a ser oferecida as grandes massas com o propósito de formar mão de obra mercadológica, da qual ainda observamos uma forte tendência segundo os modelos atuais de educação comercial. Propomos assim, a importância de retomar valores éticos exclusivamente humanos, como o respeito ao todo e a identidade dos indivíduos, além da possibilidade de oferecer uma formação justa que não segregue ou subtraia as potencialidades dos alunos.El presente artículo tiene como objetivo pensar “la educación superior del estado de São Paulo ante el influyente sistema capitalista”. La forma en que el mismo viene modelando prácticas educativas en la enseñanza superior es una cuestión crítica debido a la "cosificación" del ser em del mantenimiento de los ideales del capitalismo. El punto de partida para tal reflexión se inicia bajo los pilares de la educación griega, pasando por la modernización de la educación occidental durante la revolución industrial que finalmente, culmina en cuestiones actuales sobre la comercialización de la enseñanza superior. Para fundamentar indagaciones contemporáneas, se utilizará como referencial teórico datos disponibles por el Instituto Nacional de Enseñanza e Investigación - INEP, referente al número de cursos de graduación presencial en el estado de São Paulo, así como la cantidad de matrículas efectuadas por alumnos del sexo masculino y femenino, además de la cantidad de concluyentes entre los mismos durante el período de 1991 a 2015. La conclusión sustancial de ese ejercicio reflexivo evidencia que desde los primordios de la educación griega, el sistema educativo a pesar de presentar una propuesta humanística e integral, era accesible sólo a los nobles. Durante la revolución industrial, la misma pasó a ser ofrecida las grandes masas, pero con el propósito de formar mano de obra mercadológica, de la cual aún observamos una fuerte tendencia según los modelos actuales de educación comercial. Proponemos así, la importancia de retomar valores éticos exclusivamente humanos, como el respeto al todo y la identidad de los individuos, además de la posibilidad de ofrecer una formación justa que no segregue o reste el potencial de los alumnos.L'objectif de cet article est de réfléchir sur l'enseignement supérieur de l'État de São Paulo devant l’influent système capitaliste. La façon dont il a modelé les pratiques éducatives dans l'enseignement supérieur est une question critique en raison de la « chosification » de l'être en faveur du maintien des idéaux du capitalisme. Le point de départ d'une telle réflexion commence sous les piliers de l'éducation grecque, en passant par la modernisation de l'éducation occidentale au cours de la révolution industrielle qui aboutit finalement aux questions actuelles sur la commercialisation de l'enseignement supérieur. Afin de baser des questions contemporaines, la référence théorique sera utilisée données fournies par l'Institut national de l'éducation et de la recherche - INEP, concernant le nombre de cours de premier cycle dans l'État de São Paulo, ainsi que le nombre d'inscriptions masculines et féminin, en plus du nombre de diplômés parmi eux entre 1991 et 2015. La conclusion substantielle de cet exercice réflexif révèle que dès les premiers jours de l'éducation grecque, le système éducatif, bien qu'il présentât une proposition humaniste et intégrale, n'était accessible qu'aux nobles. Au cours de la révolution industrielle, l’éducation a été offerte aux masses, mais dans le but de former le marché du travail, ce dont nous observons encore une forte tendance selon les modèles actuels de l'éducation commerciale. Nous proposons donc l'importance de reprendre exclusivement des valeurs éthiques humaines, telles que le respect de l'ensemble et de l'identité des individus, et la possibilité d'offrir une formation équitable qui ne sépare pas ou ne soustraie pas les potentialités des étudiants.The objective of this article is to think about the higher education of the state of São Paulo considering the influence of capitalism system. The way this sytem has been modeling educational practices in this context is a critical issue due to the process of "quantification" of the being in favor of maintaining the ideals of capitalism itself. The starting point of such reflexion underlies in the pilars of Greek education, passing through the modernization of Western education during the industrial revolution that culminates in modern questions about the commercialization of higher education. To support contemporary issues, it was used the theoretical reference data from the National Institute of Education and Research - INEP, referring to the number of presential graduation courses of the state of São Paulo, just as the quantity of enrollment made by male and female students and the number of graduated students between 1991 and 2015. The substantial conclusion of this reflexive exercise shows that from the earliest days of Greek education, the educational system, although presenting a humanistic and integral proposal, was accessible only to the nobles. During the industrial revolution, the education came to be offered to the masses, but with the goal of forming a labor force to the market. This is still a strong trend observed in the current models of commercial education. We propose, therefore, the importance of retaking exclusively human ethical values, such as respect for the society and the identity of individuals, as well as the possibility of offering a fair formation that does not segregate or subtract the potentialities of the students

New model of biological membrane (shed snakeskin) for studies of antioxidant activity in photoprotective formulation/ Novo modelo de membrana biológica (ecdise de pele de cobra) para estudos de atividade antioxidante em formulação fotoprotetora

Antioxidants of natural origin are used in medicines and cosmetics with several benefits, such as: photoprotective action, anti-aging, moisturizing and anti-pollutant. The human epidermis has an important barrier effect and limited anti-oxidative capacity, so studies with the epidermis is essential. Shed snakeskin (SS) is composed of the stratum corneum and provide a barrier like human stratum corneum. This alternative does not show a tendency to microbiological degradation and can be considered ecologically correct. This study intends to present, in an innovative way, the Electron Paramagnetic Resonance spectroscopy (EPR) and The Forster Resonance Energy Transfer (FRET) were employed to evaluate the natural antioxidant substances (Resveratrol/ RES 3.0 w/w and Ferulic acid/ FA 1.0 w/w) associated with organic sunscreens ingredients (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate/ EHMC 10.0%w/w and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethano/ BMBM 5.0%w/w in a photoprotective emulsion (PB). Furthermore, the use of SS seedlings as a possible alternative to the use of human or animal skin ex-vivo. RES and FA can absorb the energy emitted by the EHMC in FRET, preventing the passage through the triplet state, favoring the photostability of this sunscreen, the same not ocorred with the BMBM. Antioxidant activity of the photoprotective formulations was evaluated in vitro by the percentual inhibition of the radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrihydrazyl (DPPH•). The antioxidant activity with RES, 97.0% inhibition of DPPH• in the PB, was higher than PB + FA (91.0%), however the concentration of RES in PB was higher than FA. The sample SS + PB + FA was the one with the lowest number of free radicals after irradiation, which corroborated the high percentage of radical inhibition in vitro and it was the better association with the photoprotective formulation.

Vitamin E in Human Skin: Functionality and Topical Products

Vitamins are part of the antioxidant system of human skin, and are detectable in different layers, so the topical application can be an alternative to maintain the functionality of the system. The capacity of the antioxidant gradient of keratinocytes is associated with attenuation of the action of related free radicals in both esthetics and health. These problems arise from extrinsic aging and are related to the risk of cancer. Vitamin E has been proven to have antioxidant and moisturizing properties in the skin and can protect against the damage of UVB radiation, with emphasis on the reduction of acute erythema and photoaging. The choice for the use of topical vitamin E, compared to the oral is given by the safety as mild irritation and it has potential for multifunctional topical formulations. The purpose of the chapter is to review the topical use of formulations with vitamin E, addressing the development, safe use and evaluation of effectiveness

Nanoemulsion containing caffeine for cellulite treatment: characterization and in vitro evaluation

The Ginoide Hydrolipodystrophy (GHLD), commonly known as cellulite, occurs in 80-90% of the female population after the puberty period and comes from a metabolic modification in the cutaneous adipose tissue. Caffeine has been used in topical formulations due to its lipolytic action. We studied a nanoemulsion (F3) containing caffeine with two surfactants (oleth-3 and oleth-20) by emulsification method by phase inversion temperature inversion (PIT). The polydispersion indices (PDI) showed the reduced deviation of 0.1. The mean droplet size was ~ 40 nm. The evaluated constant of Ostwald, in the refrigerator condition was the most favorable during the stability test. In the In Raman spectroscopy assay, the caffeine bands found in F3 were compatible with those found in the caffeine solution (1337, 652.5 and 558.2 cm-1). There was no interaction of caffeine anhydrous with other ingredients in nanoemulsion. In the in vitro safety assay the result of 1.4 ranked the F3 as slightly irritating. In the natural membrane, cutaneous permeation test (human skin) permeate concentrations did not exceed the saturation concentration of the PBS buffer (48.96 μg/3 mL). The caffeine solution and F3 permeated statistically equal, but the nanoemulsion visually and sensorially improved the caffeine precipitation

Influence of antioxidants on the photostabilization of avobenzone (UVA filter) and octyl p-methoxycinnamate (UVB filter) in sunscreens

Com o intuito de promover proteção de amplo espectro, na maioria dos protetores solares se associam dois ou mais filtros orgânicos, visando proteção contra a radiação UVA e UVB. A combinação da avobenzona (BMBM), filtro UVA, e do ρ-metoxicinamato de octila (EHMC), filtro UVB, é muito utilizada em formulações manipuladas e industrializadas, porém pode ocorrer alteração na absorção espectral após a exposição à radiação UV, comprometendo a eficácia fotoprotetora. Visando reduzir a instabilidade da combinação dos filtros, se adicionam agentes fotoestabilizadores. Os antioxidantes de origem natural são utilizados em medicamentos e cosméticos com diversos benefícios, tais como: ação fotoprotetora, antienvelhecimento, hidratante e antipoluente. A epiderme humana possui importante efeito de barreira e capacidade antioxidante limitada, portanto estudos com a epiderme são essenciais. A ecdise de pele de cobra (EC) é composta pelo estrato córneo e fornece uma barreira similar ao estrato córneo humano. Não apresenta tendência à degradação microbiológica e pode ser considerada ecologicamente correta. O objetivo principal desta pesquisa foi avaliar o potencial dos antioxidantes Ácido Ferúlico (AF) 1,0 p/p ou Resveratrol (RES) 3,0 p/p como substâncias fotoestabilizadoras dos filtros solares químicos BMBM 5,0% p/p e EHMC 10,0% p/p em emulsão fotoprotetora (BF). As interações moleculares dos filtros com os antioxidantes foram avaliadas por Ressonância Magnética de Hidrogênio (1H RMN) quantitativo, Calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC) e Termogravimetria TG, Análise qualitativa da supressão do estado energético singleto por meio da fluorescência, Transferência de energia por ressonância de Förster (FRET) e por espectroscopia de Ressonância Paramagnética Eletrônica (EPR). Foi avaliada a estabilidade preliminar, acelerada e normal, observando-se: características organoléticas e na Estabilidade Normal, adicionalmente, pH, fotoproteção, fotoestabilidade, atividade antioxidante in vitro e quantificação dos filtros solares por RMN. A segurança dos filtros BMBM e EHMC foi avaliada pelo ensaio de permeação cutânea em orelha de porco em célula de difusão de Franz. No ensaio de 1H RMN quantitativo a adição de RES na solução com EHMC+BMBM conservou mais a razão trans/cis do EHMC (30,65) em relação a mesma solução sem Resveratrol (3,96), significando que a forma trans do EHMC possuiu a capacidade de absorver a radiação UVB, mantendo-se mais preservada com a adição de RES após irradiação de 13211J cm-2 . A adição de AF na solução com EHMC+BMBM conservou de forma menos expressiva a razão trans/cis do EHMC (7,71) em relação a solução EHMC+BMBM sem RES (3,96), sendo a forma trans do EHMC pouco preservada em relação a adição do RES. No ensaio de análise térmica pela avaliação TG foi possível observar que os filtros solares BMBM e EHMC indicaram elevada estabilidade térmica. A associação das técnicas (TG e DSC) permitiu obter evidências de interação química na mistura EHMC + AF e BMBM + RES. Nas demais misturas EHMC + RES e BMBM + AF, houve interação física. Na mistura EHMC + RES houve solubilização do RES. A degradação do AF foi retardada em mistura com BMBM. No ensaio de supressão do estado de energia singleto, a adição de RES auxiliou o retorno do filtro BMBM para o estado fundamental, devido a inibição da fluorescência. A inibição do estado de energia singleto favoreceu a fotoestabilidade do filtro solar. A adição de AF não suprimiu de forma tão evidente quanto a adição de RES na solução. No ensaio de FRET, as curvas dos antioxidantes AF e RES interceptaram a curva do EHMC e em relação ao BMBM não houve intercepção. No ensaio de EPR a amostra EC+BF+AF foi a que apresentou menor número de radicais livres após irradiação, o que corroborou com o alto percentual de inibição do radical DPPH•. Após exposição à radiação XVIII UV, a ecdise de pele de cobra permaneceu com a presença de radicais livres, a radiação UVB modificou toda a cascata inflamatória e produziu espécies reativas de oxigênio (ROS). Com o tempo, estes radicais se reequilibraram. Na Avaliação da Estabilidade Preliminar e Acelerada, as formulações não apresentaram alteração de aspecto, cor e odor. Na Avaliação da Estabilidade Normal (AEN), a adição dos antioxidantes em BF reduziu o valor de pH. Na avaliação do FPS in vitro das formulações não submetidas à radiação, em todas as condições do estudo, a adição de RES praticamente manteve o valor de FPS quando comparado às formulações BF+RES ao longo dos 90 dias. Além disso, a adição dos antioxidantes não elevou o valor de FPS de forma expressiva e também não mateve o valor de FPS pós irradiação. O comprimento de onda crítico (λc) permaneceu acima de 370 nm, para todas as formulações, antes e após a irradiação no decorrer da AEN. Em relação ao parâmetro razão UVA/ UVB a adição de AF não favoreceu a proteção UVA nessas condições. O percentual de conservação dos filtros solares BMBM e EHMC por 1H RMN foi maior com a adição de RES na base fotoprotetora no decorrer da AEN em todas as condições testadas. A atividade antioxidante da base fotoprotetora com RES obteve 97,0% de inibição de DPPH•, sendo maior que a BF adicionada de AF (91.0%), contudo a concentração de RES foi maior que do AF. Após a irradiação, os sinais dos espectros de ressonância paramagnética eletrônica de todas as amostras aumentaram em amplitude e o menor sinal em relação à amostra de ecdise de pele de cobra (EC) foi da amostra EC+BF+AF. Destaca-se que os espectros com os antioxidantes AF e RES tiveram seus sinais atenuados. Aproximadamente 72 h após a irradiação, a amostra com ecdise de pele de cobra aumentou levemente sua amplitude em relação às demais. A concentração dos filtros solares presentes no estrato córneo e na epiderme+derme foi inferior ou nulo nas formulações fotoprotetoras testadas. Com resultados mais satisfatórios para BF+AF. A adição de RES conservou a forma trans do EHMC de forma superior em relação à solução dos filtros sem antioxidante, após irradiação de 6h com dose elevada. A adição de RES inibiu o estado de energia singleto permitindo que o filtro solar BMBM permanecesse mais tempo no estado fundamental, significando menor degradação e maior capacidade de absorver a radiação UVA. Na Avaliação da estabilidade Acelerada ou Normal, as formulações se mantiveram estáveis nas condições de geladeira, estufa e ambiente em relação as características organolépticas. O fato de que os ingredientes nas formulações hidratam e nutrem, provavelmente conferiram proteção para o estrato córneo. O AF e RES por FRET demonstraram conseguir absorver a energia emitida pelo EHMC evitando a passagem pelo estado tripleto, favorecendo então a fotoestabilidade deste filtro solar, o mesmo não aconteceu em relação ao BMBM. No ensaio de atividade antioxidante, a adição de RES e AF elevaram a atividade antioxidante de forma significativamente diferente em relação a base fotoprotetora sem antioxidantes. Pelos espectros de EPR foi possível observar menor sinal em relação a EC para a amostra com EC+BF+AF, o que corrobora com o alto percentual de inibição do radical DPPH• por AF. A validação bioanalítica foi considerada adequada de acordo com a legislação brasileira e internacional. As formulações testadas podem ser consideradas seguras em relação a baixa permeação cutânea dos filtros solares EHMC e BMBM e segura quanto a eficácia fotoprotetora. Destacando melhor segurança para BF+AF. Como conclusão, a adição dos antioxidantes AF e RES protegeram a formulação fotoprotetora por mecanismos diferentes, sendo seu uso multifuncional para formulações fotoprotetoras.In order to promote broad-spectrum protection, most sunscreens are combined with two or more organic filters, aiming at protect against UVA and UVB radiation. The combination of avobenzone (BMBM), UVA filter, and octyl -methoxycinnamate (EHMC), UVB filter, is widely used in manipulated and industrialized formulations, but there may be changes in spectral absorption after exposure to UV radiation, compromising the efficacy photoprotective. In order to reduce the instability of the combination of filters, photostabilizer agents are added. Antioxidants of natural origin are used in medicines and cosmetics with several benefits, such as: photoprotective, anti-aging, moisturizing and anti-polluting action. The human epidermis has an important barrier effect and limited antioxidant capacity, therefore studies with the epidermis are essential. Snakeskin ecdysis (SE) is composed of stratum corneum and provides a similar barrier to the human stratum corneum. It has no tendency to microbiological degradation and can be considered ecologically correct. The main objective of this research was to evaluate the potential of two antioxidants Ferulic Acid (FA) 1.0 p/p or Resveratrol (RES) 3.0 p/p as photostabilizing substances in chemical sunscreens BMBM 5.0% p/p EHMC 10.0% w/w Photoprotective emulsion (PB). The molecular interactions of filters with the antioxidants were evaluated by quantitative Hydrogen Magnetic Resonance (1H NMR), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetry (TG), Qualitative analysis of singlet energy state suppression by means of fluorescence, Spectroscopy Förster Resonance Energy Resonance (FRET) and by Electron Paramagnetic Resonance (EPR). Preliminary, accelerated and normal stability, additionally, pH, photoprotection, photostability, in vitro antioxidant activity and quantification of sunscreens by NMR. The safety of BMBM and EHMC filters was evaluated by the skin permeation assay in pig ear in Franz diffusion cell. In the quantitative 1H NMR assay, the addition of RES in the solution with EHMC+BMBM preserved more the trans/cis ratio of EHMC (30.65) compared to the same solution without Resveratrol (3.96), meaning that the trans form of EHMC had the ability to absorb UVB radiation, remaining more preserved with the addition of RES after irradiation of 13211J cm-2. The addition of FA in the solution with EHMC+BMBM preserved the trans/cis ratio of EHMC (7.71) less significantly than in the EHMC+BMBM solution without RES (3.96), with the trans form of EHMC being poorly preserved regarding the addition of the RES. In the thermal analysis using the TG technique, it was possible to observe that the BMBM an EHMC sunscreens indicated high thermal stability. The association of techniques TG and DSC allowed to obtain evidence of chemical interaction in the EHMC+FA and BMBM+RES mixture. In the other mixtures EHMC+RES and BMBM+FA, there was physical interaction. In the EHMC+RES mixture there was solubilization of the RES. The degradation of FA was retarded in mixture with BMBM. In the singlet energy state suppression assay, the addition of RES helped the BMBM filter return to ground state due to fluorescence inhibition. The inhibition of the singlet energy state favored the photostability of the sunscreen. The addition of FA did not suppress as evidently as the addition of RES to the solution. In the FRET assay, the curves of antioxidants FA an RES intersected the curve of EHMC in the relation to the BMBM there was no intercepted. In the EPR test, the sample EC+BF+FA showed the lowest number of free radicals after irradiation, which corroborated the high percentage of inhibition of the DPPH• radical. After exposure to UV radiation, snake skin ecdysis remained with the presence of free XX radicals, UVB radiation modified the entire inflamatory cascade and produced Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). Over time, these radicals rebalanced. In the assessment of Preliminary and Accelerated Stability, the formulations showed no change in appereance, color and odor. In the assessement of Normal Stability (AEN), the addition of antioxidants in BF reduced the pH value. In evaluating the in vitro SPF of formulations not subjected to radiation, under all study conditions, the addition of RES practically maintened the SPF value compared to BF+RES formulations throughout the 90 days. Futhermore, the addition of antioxidants did not significantly incresead the SPF value and also did not maintain the SPF value after irradiation. The critical wavelenght (λc) remained above 370nm, for all formulations, before and after irradiation during the AEN. Regarding the UVA/UVB ratio parameter, the addition of FA did not favor UVA protection under these conditions. The percentage of conservation of BMBM and EHMC sunscreens by 1H NMR was higher with the addition of RES in the photoprotective base during the AEN in all conditions tested. The antioxidant activity of the photoprotective base with RES obtained 97.0% inhibition of DPPH•, being higher than the BF added with FA (91.0%), however the concentration of RES was higher than that of FA. After irradiation, the signals from the electronic paramagnetic resonance spectra of all samples increased in amplitude and the smallest signal in relation to the snake skin ecdysis (b>EC) sample was from the EC+BF+FA sample. It is noteworthy that the spectra with the FA and RES antioxidants had their signals attenuated. Approximately 72h after irradiation, the sample with snake skin ecdysis slightly increased its amplitude in relation to the others. The concentration of sunscreens present in the stratum corneum and epidermids+dermis was lower or null in the tested photoprotective formulations. With more sactisfatory results for BF+FA. The addition of RES preserved the trans form of EHMC in a superior way in relation to the solution of the filters without antioxidant, after 6h irradiation with high dose. The addition of RES inhibited the singlet energy state allowing the BMBM sunscreen to remain in the ground state longer, meaning less degradation and greater capacity to absorb UVA radiation. In the assessement of Accelerated or Normal stability, the formulations remained stable under the conditions of refrigerator, oven and environment in relation to organoleptic characteristics. The fact that the ingredients in the formulations moisturize and nourish probably conferred protection to the stratum corneum. The FA and RES by FRET demonstrated to be able to absorb the energy emitted by the EHMC, avoiding the passage through the triplet state, thus favoring the photostability of this sunscreen, the same not happening in relation to the BMBM. In the antioxidant activity assay, the addition of RES and FA, improved the antioxidant active in relation to BF without antioxidants. From the EPR spectra, it was possible to observe a lower signal in relation to EC in the sample with EC+BF+FA, wich corroborates the high percentage of inhibition of the DPPH• radical by AF. Bionalytical was considered adequate in accordance with Brazilian and International legislation. The tested formulations can be considered safe in relation to low skin permeation of EHMC and BMBM sunscreens and safe in terms of photoprotective efficacy. Highlighting better security for BF+FA. In conclusion, the addition of FA and RES antioxidants protected the photoprotective formulation by different mechanisms, and its use is multifunctional of photoprotective formulations

Development and evaluation of the safety and efficacy of caffeine nanoemulsion with action in HDLG

.A Hidrolipodistrofia Ginoide (HDLG), popularmente conhecida como celulite, ocorre em 80 a 90% da população feminina após o período da puberdade, provém de uma modificação metabólica no tecido adiposo cutâneo. A cafeína, por sua vez, promove uma ação lipolítica e é muito utilizada por formuladores. Este projeto buscou obter nanoemulsão contendo, como ingredientes principais, tensoativos (Oleth-3; Oleth-20) e cafeína pelo método de emulsificação por (TIF). Foram desenvolvidas emulsões, sendo a F3, a mais translúcida com Temperatura clearing-boundary (Tcb) de aproximadamente 80 °C e temperatura de inversão de fase (TIF) de 85 °C. No Teste de Estabilidade Preliminar (TEP), a nanoemulsão não apresentou modificações nas suas características organolépticas, exceto no teste de estresse térmico no qual ocorreu separação de fases acima de 70°C. No Teste de Estabilidade Normal (TEN) a condição de 45,0 ± 2,0 °C apresentou instabilidade, nos demais valores de temperatura as nanoemulsões foram classificadas como normal. Os valores de pH para as condições de 25,0 ± 2,0 °C e 5,0 ± 2,0 °C decaíram no decorrer dos 90 dias, 13,7 e 2% respectivamente. Estes valores foram avaliados por ANOVA, seguido do Teste de Tukey, sugerindo que o armazenamento da F3 seja refrigerado. Os índices de polidispersão apresentaram desvio reduzido de 0,1. Indicando a presença de gotículas com alta polidispersibilidade e caráter monodisperso. O tamanho de gotícula na condição de 5,0 ± 2,0 °C teve tamanho e percentual de variação inferior em relação à condição 25,0 ± 2,0 °C. O potencial zeta no t0 foi de -3,9. O percentual de Transmitância no t0 e com t90 dias de TEN apresentou valores de 48,7 e 6,5% respectivamente, indicando uma perda da transparência no decorrer do tempo. A constante de Ostwald na condição de geladeira foi favorável para a estabilidade. No ensaio com a espectroscopia Raman foi comparado o espectro da cafeína em solução em diversos valores de pH e não foi observado o deslocamento de bandas e nem sua protonação. As bandas de cafeína encontradas na F3 foram compatíveis com as encontradas na solução de cafeína (1337; 652,5 e 558,2 cm-1). Não houve interação da cafeína anidra com o óleo Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (TAAC) e nem com os tensoativos Oleth-3 e Oleth-20. A validação analítica do método foi linear, precisa e exata. Houve redução da concentração de cafeína ao longo do tempo da TEN, na condição de 5,0 ± 2,0 °C (15,1%). A eficiência de associação da cafeína na gotícula foi 4,8%. No ensaio de segurança de uso de nanoemulsão in vitro HET CAM - Hen\'s Egg Test - Chorioallantoic Membrane, o resultado de 1,4 classificou a nanoemulsão F3 como levemente irritante. No ensaio de permeação cutânea em membrana natural (pele humana) as concentrações permeadas não ultrapassaram a concentração de saturação do tampão Phosfate Saline (PBS) (48,96 µg/3mL). A solução com cafeína permeou mais que a nanoemulsão com cafeína F3, porém a nanoemulsão melhorou visualmente e sensorialmente a precipitação da cafeína.Ginoide Hydrolipodystrophy (HDLG), commonly known as cellulite, occurs in 80-90% of the female population after the puberty period, comes from a metabolic modification in cutaneous adipose tissue. Caffeine, in turn, promotes a lipolytic action and is widely used by formulators. This project obtained nanoemulsion containing as main ingredients surfactants (Oleth-3; Oleth-20) and caffeine by emulsification method by (TIF). Emulsions were developed, with F3 being chosen, the most translucent with clearing-boundary Temperature (Tcb) of approximately 80 °C and phase inversion temperature (TIF) of 85 °C. In the Preliminary Stability Test (PET), the nanoemulsion showed no changes in its organoleptic characteristics, except in the thermal stress test in which phase separation occurred above 70 °C. In the Normal Stability Test (TEN) the condition of 45.0 ± 2.0 °C showed instability, in the other temperature values the nanoemulsions were classified as normal. The pH values for the conditions of 25.0 ± 2.0 °C and 5.0 ± 2.0 °C declined over the course of 90 days, 13.7 and 2.0% respectively. These values were evaluated by ANOVA, followed by Tukey\'s test, suggesting that F3 storage should be refrigerated. The polydispersion indices showed reduced deviation of 0.1. Indicating the presence of droplets with high polydispersity and monodisperse character. The droplet size in the condition of 5.0 ± 2.0 °C had size and percentage of variation lower than the condition 25.0 ± 2.0 ° C. The zeta potential at t0 was -3.9. The percentage of Transmittance at t0 and with t90 days of TEN presented values of 48.7 and 6.5% respectively, indicating a loss of transparency over time. Evaluated constant of Ostwald, in the refrigerator condition was the most favorable for stability. In the Raman spectroscopy assay the caffeine spectrum was compared in solution at various pH values and the band displacement and its protonation were not observed. The caffeine bands found in F3 were compatible with those found in the caffeine solution (1337, 652.5 and 558.2 cm -1). There was no interaction of caffeine anhydrous with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride oil (TAAC) nor with Oleth-3 and Oleth-20 surfactants. The analytical validation of the method was linear, precise and accurate. There was a reduction of the caffeine concentration over the TEN time, in the condition of 5.0 ± 2.0 °C (15.1%). The caffeine association efficiency in the droplet was 4.8%. In the safety assay of using nanoemulsion in vitro HET CAM - Hen\'s Egg Test - Chorioallantoic Membrane, the result of 1.4 ranked the nanoemulsion F3 as slightly irritating. In the natural membrane cutaneous permeation test (human skin) permeate concentrations did not exceed the saturation concentration of the (PBS) Phosfate Saline (48.96 µg/3 mL). The caffeine solution permeated more than the nanoemulsion with caffeine F3, but the nanoemulsion visually and sensorially improved the caffeine precipitation

Characterization and identification of ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate for cosmetic formulations application

The ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate (AMP) presents the same functional properties of ascorbic acid (AA). Besides antioxidant and depigmentant activity, the AMP presents silanol in its chemical structure. The aim of this work was to characterize and indentify the AMP alone and in cosmetic formulations. The following techniques were employed: Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrophotometry, particle size distributions, in vitro antioxidant activity with 2.2-diphenyl-1 picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and Oxigen Radical Absorbance Capacity Assay and High Performace Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) (developed and validated method) for the active ingredient; Microscopy, HPLC and Normal Stability Assay (NSA) for the emulsions. Particle size distributions results showed that the average size of AMP was 1.0 µm and polydispersity index was 0.1. In DPPH assay AA and AMP were statistically the same. The value of ORAC obtained for AMP was 0.74 and for AA in the literature was 0.95. In the NSA the formulations were stable in conditions of 5.0 and 45.0 ± 2.0 ºC for 90 days. Adequate stability at ambient temperature out of reach of light was also observed. Thus, this works presented an acceptable method for quantification of AMP alone and in cosmetic formulations. AMP was an adequate choice for the incorporation in emulsions with antioxidant efficacy

Anticellulite efficacy of Trichilia catigua and Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham extracts

Among all forms of treatment for cellulite, the most commonly used and easy to access are the cosmetic products containing active substances which are vessel-protective, anti-inflammatory, peripheral microcirculation stimulants and lipolytic agents. In this work, the clinical anticellulite efficacy of a commercial extract of Trichilia catigua (Catuaba) and Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham (Marapuama) was evaluated. Twenty-seven woman subjects between the ages of 20 and 40 years old with moderate gynoid lipodystrophy participated in this study. The Trichilia catigua and Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham extract was incorporated into a cosmetic emulsion, and the subjects applied this formulation once a day for 60 days. The following parameters were assessed: hypodermic layer thickness by B-mode ultrasonography, cutaneous temperature, and anthropometric measurements. The test product caused an increase in skin temperature after 60 days application without affecting the hypodermic layer thickness. In addition, a statistically significant reduction in circumference of specific body areas was observed (stomach, waist, upper thigh, upper leg, and upper hip). Thus, the results indicated that the Trichilia catigua and Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham extract was effective in the reduction of the gynoid lipodystrophy aspect, likely by reducing edema and improving local microcirculation

<i>Azadirachta indica</i> (Neem) as a Potential Natural Active for Dermocosmetic and Topical Products: A Narrative Review

Azadirachta indica (Neem) is a large tree that is native to India and is traditionally used due to its several properties, mainly to treat skin diseases, as well as its “herbicidal” activity. Its bark, leaves, seeds, fruits and flowers are widely used in medicinal treatment due to the presence of active secondary metabolites with biological effects, mainly limonoids and tetranortriterpenoids, such as azadirachtin. Thus, A. indica was studied in a variety of conditions, such as anticancer, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive agents, as well as a biopesticide. Furthermore, differentiated cell tissue in A. indica cultivation was reported to produce active metabolites for different purposes. However, only a few studies have been developed regarding its potential use in cosmetics. For instance, most studies explained the antimicrobial properties in health conditions, such as acne, dandruff and personal health care. Here, we summarized not only the most common cosmetic claims to treat acne but also mitigating other skin disorders related to inflammatory and oxidant processes in recent in vivo studies and patents to aid researchers and industrialists to select A. indica derivatives as novel cosmetic ingredients