Designing nocturnal cities: Illuminating the social role light plays in urban life.

Sociologists Joanne Entwistle, Don Slater, and Mona Sloane look at the fundamental role of light in social life. Lighting has a lot to say about social structures, yet many of these assumptions remain unchallenged. By investigating lighting design, social scientists can understand how social relationships are linked to technology and the wider built environment. In conjunction with the research, the team have recently released two videos which further explore the aims and outcomes of their recent Urban Lightscapes/Social Nightscapes project

The Handbook of Fashion Studies

Edited volume of new writing representing a comprehensive survey of major concepts and current research in fashion studies. Editorial Introduction by Sandy Black, Amy de la Haye, Agnès Rocamora, Regina Root and Helen Thomas. Amy de la Haye is editor of Section IV Fashion and Materiality including: Introduction: Amy de la Haye, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, UK Chapter 12: Unpicking the Threads: Technology and investigative methodologies, Philip A. Sykas, Manchester School of Art, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK Chapter 13: The Look: Looking at objects as subjects, Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada Chapter 14: Anthropology and Materiality, Sarah Fee, Royal Ontario Museum, Canada Chapter 15: Immateriality, Robyn Healy, RMIT, Melbourne, Australi

ONEDAY Shoes: A Maker Toolkit to Understand the Role of Co-Manufacturing in Personalization

Personalization of shoes is of increasing importance to designers, design researchers, and manufacturers as mass customization progresses towards ultra personalized product service systems. Many attempts have been made to design co-creation platforms that allow end users to personalize their own shoes. Those co-creation platforms primarily concentrate on color selection. This research takes a different approach and designs a toolkit for maker-oriented users to co-manufacture their own shoes. The toolkit was designed in different levels and deployed to makers via crowdsharing worldwide. Backers were surveyed before deployment and interviewed after two years to understand personalization over a larger amount of time with the research product. We find that users who have greater bespoke tools and materials in their toolkits are more likely to personalize their shoes while co-manufacturing. The research provides guidelines for researchers and designers creating toolkits, designing personalization product service systems/configurators and engaging in tangible bespoke processes

The Field of Fashion Materialized: A Study of London Fashion Week

This article, based on two studies of the fashion industry examines one of its key institutions, London Fashion Week (LFW). Drawing on the work of Bourdieu, we argue that this event is a materialization of the field of fashion.We examine how LFW renders visible the boundaries, relational positions, capital and habitus at play in the field, reproducing critical divisions within it.As well as making visible the field, LFW is a ceremony of consecration within it that contributes to its reproduction. The central aim of this article is to develop an empirically grounded sense of field, reconciling this macro-structural concept with embodied and situated reality

Fashion archive fervour: the critical role of fashion archives in preserving, curating, and narrating fashion

Fashion items and artefacts across the 19th and 20th centuries were once considered unworthy of placement in museums and archives on account of their perishable nature and their association with the shallow pleasures of low culture. The perceived fragile and ephemeral nature of fashion garments and accessories has been reevaluated with material objects now considered worth saving for multiple purposes and uses. Awareness of the high social, cultural, economic, and historic value of physical fashion relics has resulted in the trend for fashion designers, brands, and museums to collate, create, and manage fashion archives. The article analyses the importance for both industry and consumer of preserving and accessing fashion archives in the 21st century in both digital and traditional ways. It highlights the benefits of collating a holistic multi-modal archive by combining material and textual cultural objects in various forms to portray and contextualize the lived social experience. A case study will analyse a selected educational fashion archive based in postcolonial Hong Kong. The contemporary fashion archive’s role is evaluated from the perspective of archivist and user regarding contested issues such as commercialization, curatorial objectivity, or controlled access, while evaluating future directions for the fashion archive as ultimate style repository

Conversion to Islam as a Strategy of Change and Differentiation in Modernity

ABSTRACT: This article seeks to contribute to the knowledge of Islam in the Colombian context, through ethnographic observations and narratives of individuals who have converted to said religion in Bogota. In addition to analyzing the motives for their conversion, it studies the way these people have constructed a new religious identity altering their perception of themselves, their system of beliefs and values, their behavior and their relation to the socio-cultural environment around them. It also examines the link between the private and the public spheres, between the symbolic and the political, that becomes visible when, by openly adhering to a religion that is usually stigmatized, a person resists the hegemonic forms of socialization in Colombian society.RESUMEN: Este artículo busca aportar al conocimiento del islam en el contexto colombiano a partir de observaciones etnográficas y narrativas de sujetos que se han convertido a esta religión en Bogotá. Además de analizar las motivaciones de sus conversiones, estudiamos la forma en que las personas han construido una nueva identidad religiosa alterando su percepción de sí mismas, su sistema de creencias y valores, su comportamiento y su relación con el medio sociocultural que las rodea. Se examina también el enlace entre lo privado y lo público, entre lo simbólico y lo político, que se hace visible cuando, al adherir abiertamente a una religión usualmente estigmatizada, la persona resiste frente a formas de socialización hegemónicas de la sociedad colombiana

The Aesthetic Economy: The production of value in the field of fashion modelling

This article delineates the operations of one particular ‘aesthetic economy’, focusing on the way in which aesthetics in the field of fashion modelling are central to the economic calculations of this market. Drawing on the work of Bourdieu and Blumer, the author argues that economic calculations are intertwined with cultural concerns, bound to forms of cultural knowledge, capital and acquired taste, and to social, cultural and institutional relations. A culturally valued look (the model’s body) is produced through processes of cultural valorization within the fashion modelling network, which, in time, aim to translate into economic value in the form of high fees. Fashion modelling provides an interesting case study which might shed light on how aesthetic values are generated in other fields of cultural production with a strong aesthetic component. In setting out this case study the author delineates an approach to the study of other aesthetic economies