Stability evaluation of organic Lip Balm

O aumento da demanda global por produtos naturais, cuja produção não envolva nenhum dano ao meio ambiente, tem estimulado o desenvolvimento de cosméticos naturais e, dentro desta categoria, dos produtos orgânicos (que contêm 95% de matérias-primas orgânicas). O protetor labial é um produto cosmético semelhante ao batom que tem a finalidade de prevenir o ressecamento dos lábios, mantendo a hidratação, e protegê-los contra fatores ambientais adversos. Este trabalho envolveu o desenvolvimento de um protetor labial formulado com matérias-primas orgânicas e avaliação dos parâmetros de estabilidade, como ponto de fusão, características organolépticas e funcionalidade (teste de espalhabilidade). A formulação selecionada após o Estudo de Estabilidade Preliminar foi submetida à Avaliação Normal de Estabilidade, nas seguintes condições de armazenamento (temperatura): Ambiente (22,0 ± 3,0 ºC), Estufa (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) e Geladeira (5,0 ± 1,0 ºC), por 90 dias. Nas condições de armazenamento em geladeira ou ambiente, a espalhabilidade foi adequada, mas a superfície apresentou pontos esbranquiçados, caracterizando o fenômeno chamado fat bloom, que está relacionado à recristalização da manteiga de cacau. O armazenamento à temperatura elevada (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) provocou perda de funcionalidade, de acordo com o teste de espalhabilidade, e mudança de cor, apesar do aspecto permanecer uniforme, visto que não foi observado o fenômeno fat bloom. O odor manteve-se estável em todas as condições, assim como o ponto de fusão, com valor médio de 72,9 ºC ± 1,7 ºC durante todo o período de avaliação do teste de estabilidade (90 dias).Rising global demand for natural products whose production is harmless to the environment has stimulated the development of natural cosmetics and, within this category, organics (95% organic raw materials). The image of environmentally friendly production is one of the strongest attractions of organic products. Lip balm is a cosmetic product similar to lipstick whose purpose is to prevent lip dryness and protect against adverse environmental factors. The product's characteristics are: resistance to temperature variations, pleasant flavor, innocuousness, smoothness during application, adherence and easy intentional removal. This work involved the development of a lip balm formulated with certified organic raw materials and the execution of stability tests: fusion point determination, evaluation of organoleptic characteristics (color, odor and appearance) and functionality evaluation (spreadability test). The formulation selected after the Preliminary Stability Test was submitted to the Normal Stability Test under the following storage conditions (temperature): Room Temperature (22.0 ± 3.0 ºC), Oven (40.0 ± 2.0 ºC) and Refrigerator (5.0 ± 1.0 ºC), for 90 days. Under the Refrigerator and Room Temperature conditions, spreadability proved adequate, but the surface presented white spots, characterizing the fat bloom, a phenomenon involving the recrystallization of cocoa butter. Storage at 40.0 ± 2.0 ºC (Oven) caused loss of functionality according to the spreadability test, in addition to changes in color, although the aspect was uniform since the fat bloom was not observed (white spots on the surface). The odor remained stable under all conditions as did the melting point, which had a mean of 72.9 ± 1.7 ºC throughout the course of stability testing (90 days)

New model of biological membrane (shed snakeskin) for studies of antioxidant activity in photoprotective formulation/ Novo modelo de membrana biológica (ecdise de pele de cobra) para estudos de atividade antioxidante em formulação fotoprotetora

Antioxidants of natural origin are used in medicines and cosmetics with several benefits, such as: photoprotective action, anti-aging, moisturizing and anti-pollutant. The human epidermis has an important barrier effect and limited anti-oxidative capacity, so studies with the epidermis is essential. Shed snakeskin (SS) is composed of the stratum corneum and provide a barrier like human stratum corneum. This alternative does not show a tendency to microbiological degradation and can be considered ecologically correct. This study intends to present, in an innovative way, the Electron Paramagnetic Resonance spectroscopy (EPR) and The Forster Resonance Energy Transfer (FRET) were employed to evaluate the natural antioxidant substances (Resveratrol/ RES 3.0 w/w and Ferulic acid/ FA 1.0 w/w) associated with organic sunscreens ingredients (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate/ EHMC 10.0%w/w and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethano/ BMBM 5.0%w/w in a photoprotective emulsion (PB). Furthermore, the use of SS seedlings as a possible alternative to the use of human or animal skin ex-vivo. RES and FA can absorb the energy emitted by the EHMC in FRET, preventing the passage through the triplet state, favoring the photostability of this sunscreen, the same not ocorred with the BMBM. Antioxidant activity of the photoprotective formulations was evaluated in vitro by the percentual inhibition of the radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrihydrazyl (DPPH•). The antioxidant activity with RES, 97.0% inhibition of DPPH• in the PB, was higher than PB + FA (91.0%), however the concentration of RES in PB was higher than FA. The sample SS + PB + FA was the one with the lowest number of free radicals after irradiation, which corroborated the high percentage of radical inhibition in vitro and it was the better association with the photoprotective formulation.

Evaluation of in vitro percutaneous enhancement effect of papain and pequi oil on diclofenac sodium permeation through human skin

O objetivo desta pesquisa foi determinar in vitro o potencial da papaína e do óleo de pequi como promotores de penetração cutânea para o diclofenaco de sódio (DS) através de pele humana. Os estudos de penetração foram conduzidos em células de difusão vertical. Os promotores foram associados ou não em géis em concentrações distintas. A avaliação in vitro revelou que a papaína 0,2% p/p apresentou propriedade promotora maior para o diclofenaco de sódio (J = 0,3369 mg/cm²x h). O óleo de pequi 10,0% p/v promoveu redução do fluxo (J = 0,1848 mg/cm²x h) e a combinação de ambos os promotores apresentou valor mediano de fluxo de J = 0,2187 mg/cm²x h. A partir dos resultados, verificou-se que a papaína exerceu ação promotora de penetração cutânea melhor que o óleo de pequi.The purpose of this research was to determine the potential of papain and pequi oil as penetration enhancers for diclofenac sodium (DS) across human skin in vitro. The permeation studies were conducted with vertical diffusion cells. The enhancers were associated or not in gels in different concentrations. In vitro studies reveled that papain 0.2% (w/v) presented an elevated enhancer property for diclofenac sodium (J = 0.3369 mg/cm²x h). Pequi oil 10% (w/v) generated a reduced flux value (J = 0.1848 mg/cm²x h) and a combination of both enhancers presented a medium value of J = 0.2187 mg/cm²x h. Papain was found to be better enhancer than pequi oil

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT).(CNPq) National Council for Scientific and Technological DevelopmentCoordenacao de Aperfeicoamento de Pessoal de Nivel Superior (CAPES)FAPES

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT)

Accelerated chemical stability data of O/W fluid emulsions containing the extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham

Development of topical dosage forms requires physical, physicochemical and chemical assays that provide, as soon as possible, the formulation with the best stability profiles. This study evaluated the stability of O/W fluid emulsions, by total flavonoids determination, expressed in rutin, containing the standardized extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. Samples were evaluated for 90 days stored at 24.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 40.0 ± 0.5 ºC, following a protocol for the assessment of accelerated chemical stability assay, also known as Normal Stability Test. A sensitive UV-spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm was previously validated for the determination of the active substance. By Normal Stability Test, the O/W fluid emulsions presented acceptable chemical stability, for at least 90 days, when the samples were stored at 24.0 ± 2.0 ºC and 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC. The storage condition at 40.0 ± 0.5 ºC has accelerated the degradation process of the total flavonoids, consequently, those O/W emulsions containing this kind of natural active substance or a similar preparation must not be stored at elevated temperatures.O desenvolvimento de formas farmacêuticas tópicas necessita ensaios físicos, físico-químicos e químicos que selecionem rapidamente a formulação de melhor desempenho de estabilidade. Este estudo avaliou a estabilidade de emulsões O/A fluidas, por meio da determinação de flavonóides totais, expressos em rutina, contendo o extrato padronizado de Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (e) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. As amostras foram armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 40,0 ± 0,5 ºC durante 90 dias e foram avaliadas segundo o protocolo para a determinação da estabilidade acelerada, conhecida como Teste de Estabilidade Normal. A quantificação da substância ativa foi determinada por espectrofotometria na região do ultravioleta a 361,0 nm, previamente validado. Após os ensaios de estabilidade, as emulsões O/A fluidas apresentaram estabilidade adequada, pelo menos, no período de 90 dias, quando armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 ºC e 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC. A condição de armazenamento a 40,0 ± 0,5 ºC acelerou a cinética de degradação dos flavonóides totais, expressos em rutina, portanto, preparações possuindo esta categoria de substância ativa natural ou formulações similares não devem ser armazenadas em temperaturas elevadas

Spectroscopic and thermal characterization of alternative model biomembranes from shed skins of Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus

Recently, there has been an interest in the use of shed snake skin as alternative model biomembrane for human stratum corneum. This research work presented as objective the qualitative characterization of alternative model biomembranes from Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus by FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR and DSC. The employed biophysical techniques permitted the characterization of the biomembranes from shed snake skin of B. jararaca and S. pullatus by the identification of vibrational frequencies and endothermic transitions that are similar to those of the human stratum corneum.Existe atualmente interesse no uso da muda de pele de cobra como modelos alternativos de biomembranas da pele humana. O presente trabalho apresentou como objetivo a caracterização qualitativa de modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes de mudas de pele de cobra da Bothrops jararaca e Spilotis pullatus por espectroscopia Raman (FT-Raman), espectroscopia fotoacústica no infravermelho (PAS-FTIR) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC). As técnicas biofísicas FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR e DSC permitiram caracterizar qualitativamente os modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes das mudas de pele de cobra da B. jararaca e S. pullatus e identificar freqüências vibracionais e transições endotérmicas similares ao estrato córneo humano

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

A rutina é empregada como antioxidante e na prevenção da fragilidade capilar. Estudos de penetração in vitro através da pele humana seria a situação ideal, entretanto, há dificuldades de sua obtenção e manutenção de sua viabilidade. Entre os demais modelos de membrana, a muda de pele de cobra se apresenta como estrato córneo puro, fornecendo barreira similar ao humano e é obtida sem a morte do animal. Os objetivos desta pesquisa foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de uma emulsão cosmética contendo rutina e, como promotor de penetração cutânea, o propilenoglicol; e avaliar a penetração e a retenção cutânea in vitro da referida substância ativa da formulação, empregando um modelo de biomembrana alternativo. A emulsão foi desenvolvida com rutina e propilenoglicol, ambos a 5,0% p/p. Quantificou-se a rutina das emulsões por espectrofotometria a 361,0 nm, método previamente validado. A penetração e retenção cutânea in vitro foram realizadas em células de difusão vertical com muda de pele de cobra de Crotalus durissus, como modelo de biomembrana alternativo, e água destilada e álcool etílico absoluto 99,5% (1:1), como fluido receptor. O experimento foi conduzido em um período de seis horas, a 37,0 ± 0,5 ºC e agitação constante de 300 rpm. Empregou-se o método espectrofotométrico validado a 410,0 nm para a quantificação da rutina após penetração e retenção cutânea. A emulsão não promoveu a penetração cutânea da rutina através da muda de pele de C. durissus, retendo 0,931 ± 0,0391 mg de rutina/mg de muda de pele de cobra. Nas condições de armazenamento a 25,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 45,0 ± 0,5 ºC, a emulsão apresentou-se quimicamente estável durante 30 dias. De acordo com os resultados, a emulsão não favoreceu a penetração cutânea da rutina, mas apenas sua retenção no estrato córneo de C. durissus, condição considerada estável no período de 30 dias.Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 ºC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 45.0 ± 0.5 ºC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days