Experimental study of internal gravity waves over a slope

Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution September, 1970A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a glass wave tank to investigate the propagation of internal gravity waves up a sloping bottom in a fluid with constant Brunt-Vaisala frequency. Measurements of the wave motion in the fluid interior were primarily taken with electrical conductivity probes; measurements in the boundary layer were made with dye streaks and neutrally buoyant particles. The results indicate that, outside of the breaking zone, the amplitude and horizontal wave number of the high-frequency waves increase lineariy with decreasing depth; this is shown to agree with existing linear, inviscid solutions. A zone of breaking or runup is induced by these high-frequency waves well upslope. Shadowgraph observations show that, if the wave characteristics are coincident, or nearly so, with the bottom slope, the upslope propagation of the low-frequency waves causes a line of regularly spaced vortices to form along the slope. Subsequent mixing in the vortex cells creates thin horizontal laminae that are more homogeneous than the adjacent layers. These laminae slowly penetrate the fluid interior, creating a step-like vertical density structure. Available linear theoretical solutions for the velocity in the viscous boundary layer, determined to be valid for certain experimental conditions, are used to develop a criterion for incipient motion of bottom sediment induced by shoaling internal waves. The maximum sediment sizes that can be placed into motion, according to this criterion, are larger than certain mean sediment sizes on the continental margin off New England. This suggests that internal waves might induce initial sediment movement. Speculation about the geological effects of breaking and vortex instabilities is also given. These processes, not definitely measured in the field as yet, might also be conducive to sediment movement.This work was supported by the Office of Naval Research

Linking Sediment Transport and Stratigraphy on the Continental Shelf

The goal of the shelf sediment dynamics component of STRATAFORM is to link sediment transport processes active on the continental shelfto the formation and preservation of event beds inshelf sediment deposits. An approach combiningshelf sediment-transport models with high-resolution measurements of water-column and bed properties over periods from several months to severalyears allows us to make quantitative estimates of bed modification caused by sediment resuspension during episodic transport events

Partitioning of sediment on the shelf offshore of the Columbia River littoral cell

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Marine Geology 273 (2010): 11-31, doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2010.02.001.Sediment derived from the Columbia River has been deposited on the continental shelf, along the barriers and beaches, and in the bays of the Oregon and Washington coast during the Holocene. The barrier and beach deposits of this 150-km section of coast comprise approximately 6 km3 of these Holocene sediments (Peterson et al., 2010-this issue) while the fluvial and bay deposits comprise about 104 km3 (Baker et al., 2010-this issue), and the shelf deposit is approximately 79 km3. Seismic-reflection, sidescan sonar, and surface sediment data show that the shelf deposit is not uniform in distribution or composition. The shelf deposit is 15–50 m thick off the beaches of the southern part of the study area but is less than 3 m thick, and, in places, absent from the inner shelf in the northern third of the study area. Surface sediment texture of the shelf deposit varies as well. Pleistocene-age gravel covers parts of the inner shelf in the northern third of the area. To the south, the surface of the Holocene shelf deposit is composed of fine sand near shore that grades offshore to dominantly very fine sand in 25–30 m water depth and muddy sand on the middle and outer shelf (> 50 m depth). Although a huge volume of sediment covers the shelf, its uneven distribution indicates that in places only small amounts are available as a potential offshore source to the adjacent beaches, and in other places the finer-grained nature of the shelf deposit indicates that significant winnowing of fine sediment would be necessary to make it compositionally equivalent to sediment on adjacent beaches

What Happened to Gray Whales during the Pleistocene? The Ecological Impact of Sea-Level Change on Benthic Feeding Areas in the North Pacific Ocean

Gray whales (Eschrichtius robustus) undertake long migrations, from Baja California to Alaska, to feed on seasonally productive benthos of the Bering and Chukchi seas. The invertebrates that form their primary prey are restricted to shallow water environments, but global sea-level changes during the Pleistocene eliminated or reduced this critical habitat multiple times. Because the fossil record of gray whales is coincident with the onset of Northern Hemisphere glaciation, gray whales survived these massive changes to their feeding habitat, but it is unclear how.We reconstructed gray whale carrying capacity fluctuations during the past 120,000 years by quantifying gray whale feeding habitat availability using bathymetric data for the North Pacific Ocean, constrained by their maximum diving depth. We calculated carrying capacity based on modern estimates of metabolic demand, prey availability, and feeding duration; we also constrained our estimates to reflect current population size and account for glaciated and non-glaciated areas in the North Pacific. Our results show that key feeding areas eliminated by sea-level lowstands were not replaced by commensurate areas. Our reconstructions show that such reductions affected carrying capacity, and harmonic means of these fluctuations do not differ dramatically from genetic estimates of carrying capacity.Assuming current carrying capacity estimates, Pleistocene glacial maxima may have created multiple, weak genetic bottlenecks, although the current temporal resolution of genetic datasets does not test for such signals. Our results do not, however, falsify molecular estimates of pre-whaling population size because those abundances would have been sufficient to survive the loss of major benthic feeding areas (i.e., the majority of the Bering Shelf) during glacial maxima. We propose that gray whales survived the disappearance of their primary feeding ground by employing generalist filter-feeding modes, similar to the resident gray whales found between northern Washington State and Vancouver Island

Characteristics and Dynamics of a Large Sub-Tidal Sand Wave Field—Habitat for Pacific Sand Lance (Ammodytes personatus), Salish Sea, Washington, USA

Deep-water sand wave fields in the San Juan Archipelago of the Salish Sea and Pacific Northwest Washington, USA, have been found to harbor Pacific sand lance (PSL, Ammodytes personatus), a critical forage fish of the region. Little is known of the dynamics of these sand waves and the stability of the PSL sub-tidal habitats. Therefore, we have undertaken an initial investigation to determine the dynamic conditions of a well-known PSL habitat in the San Juan Channel within the Archipelago using bottom sediment sampling, an acoustical doppler current profiling (ADCP) system, and multi-beam echo sounder (MBES) bathymetry. Our study indicates that the San Juan Channel sand wave field maintained its shape and bedforms geometry throughout the years it has been studied. Based on bed phase diagrams for channelized bedforms, the sand waves appear to be in a dynamic equilibrium condition. Sea level rise may change the current regime within the Archipelago and may alter some of the deep-water or sub-tidal PSL habitats mapped there. Our findings have global significance in that these dynamic bedforms that harbor PSL and sand-eels elsewhere along the west coast of North America and in the North Sea may also be in a marginally dynamic equilibrium condition and may be prone to alteration by sea level rise, indicating an urgency in locating and investigating these habitats in order to sustain the forage fish

Variability of sea-floor roughness within the Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment (CODE) region

This report briefly summarizes the geological and biological data taken oft northern California before and during the Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment (CODE) (Allen et al, 1982) by the principal investigators of the bottom stress/bottom boundary layer component of CODE (D. Cacchione, D. Drake, USGS; and W. Grant, A. Williams, WHOI) and other cooperating investigators of the U.S. Geological Survey.Funding was provided by the National Science Foundation under Grant OCE 80-14938 and OCE 80-14941 and by the United States Geological Survey

High frequency bottom stress variability and its prediction in the CODE region

High quality bottom boundary layer measurements obtained in the CODE region off Northern California are described. Bottom tripod velocity measurements and supporting data obtained during typical spring and early summer conditions and during a winter storm are analyzed to obtain both velocity profiles and mean bottom stress and bottom roughness estimates. The spring/summer measurements were taken in June, 1981 during CODE-1 at C3 (90 m) by Grant and Williams, WHOI; the winter storm data was taken in November 1980 prior to CODE-1 at the R2 (80 m) site by Cacchione and Drake, USGS. The mean near-bottom ( 0.993) much of the time for everyday flows; deviations are primarily due to kinematical effects induced by unsteadiness from internal waves. Stress profiles show the logarithmic layer corresponds to a constant stress layer as expected for the inertial region of a boundary layer. Stress estimates made from dissipation and profile techniques agree at the 95 percent confidence level. Typical z0 values estimated from measurements greater than 30 cm above the bottom have magnitudes of approximately 1 cm; an order of magnitude larger than the physical bottom roughness. Corresponding u* values have typical magnitudes of 0.5-1.0 cm/sec; more than twice as large as expected from a usual drag law prediction (corresponding to over a factor of four in mean stress). These values are demonstrated to be consistent with those expected for combined wave and current flows predicted theoretically by Grant and Madsen (1979) and Smith (1977). The u* values estimated from the CODE-1 data and predicted by the Grant and Madsen (1979) model typically agree within 10-15 percent. Similar results are demonstrated for the winter storm conditions during which large sediment transport occurs. (Typical z0 values are 4-6 cm; typical u* values are 3-6 cm/sec). The waves influencing the mid-shelf bottom stress estimates are 14-20 second swell associated with Southern and Western Pacific storms. These waves are present over most of the year. The results clearly demonstrate that waves must be taken into account in predicting bottom stress over the Northern California Shelf.Prepared for the National Science Foundation under Grant OCE 80-14938

Ein Plädoyer für die Relevanz der Vergleichenden Psychologie für das Verständnis menschlicher Entwicklung

publishe