12 research outputs found

    Les debouches du gluten. Travaux de l'IRTAC et de l'INRA

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    7 ref.National audienc

    Novel Biobased Multifunctional Emollients for Cosmetic Applications: Toward the Ingredient-List Reduction

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    The use of several ingredients in cosmetic formulations can often result in long ingredient lists, which can be daunting for consumers. While each of these particular ingredients serves a purpose, some are petroleum-based and may have adverse effects on the environment and human health. Ferulic acid, a p-hydroxycinnamic acid present in numerous agro-industrial byproducts, exhibits antimicrobial, antioxidant, and UV-filtering properties. In this work, ferulic acid was functionalized through chemoenzymatic reaction steps (80 to 93% isolated yields) applying green chemistry principles, by using various natural fatty alcohols. The resulting compounds have demonstrated good emollient properties through physicochemical and spreading evaluations. Two green metrics (Mass Intensity and Ecoscale) were used to assess the synthesis of these novel emollients, which were found to have a very low environmental impact. The findings of this study could provide a novel solution for multifunctional, biobased ingredients in cosmetic formulations while reducing the environmental impact of the products

    Phenolic Compounds Extracted from Cherry Tree (Prunus avium) Branches: Impact of the Process on Cosmetic Properties

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    Cherry tree branches (Prunus avium var burlat Rosaceae) are agricultural by-products that are often neglected, yet they are rich in phenolic compounds and highly appreciated for their numerous biological activities. Extracts of cherry tree branches were evaluated for their use in cosmetics, particularly for their antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and antimicrobial activities. Samples were obtained by accelerated solvent extraction (ASE) at different ethanol percentages and different temperatures. Fourteen phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts by mass spectrometry. Three major compounds were identified (catechin, genistin, and prunin) representing 84 wt% of the total phenolic compounds. Optimal operating conditions maximizing the content of phenolic compounds were determined using a one factor at a time (OFAT) approach (70% aqueous ethanol, 70 °C). The extract obtained under these conditions also showed the highest antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities, certainly due to a high catechin content. Although the antimicrobial activities of extracts are less versatile than those of synthetic molecules, they are nonetheless interesting. According to these results, the extracts of cherry tree branches could be used in cosmetics for their interesting properties

    Accord cadre INRA-AFME. Convention 1985. Synthèse du rapport final

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    *INRA, Centre de Grignon Station de bioclimatologie, 78850 Thiverval-Grignon, (FRA) Diffusion du document : INRA, Centre de Grignon Station de bioclimatologie, 78850 Thiverval-Grignon, (FRA)National audienc

    Straightforward sustainable synthesis of novel non-endocrine disruptive bio-based organic UV-B filters with antimicrobial activity

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    ABSTRACTWith an increasing demand for safe and natural products from both industries and consumers, paired with the recent ban of decried molecules (i.e. octinoxate, avobenzone or octocrylene) due to their high negative impact on humans and the environment (i.e. endocrine disruption, coral bleaching), safe bio-based alternatives are a necessary and promising surrogate to substitute current commercialized petroleum-based UV filters. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules, displaying interesting UV-B filtering properties and great photostability were developed from furfural and 5-hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF), using the Knoevenagel condensation with a set of green conditions to minimize the impact on environment. Furthermore, those furfural- and HMF-based molecules demonstrated antimicrobial properties as secondary activity, highly sought by industries. Some furan derivatives being recognized to exhibit toxicological risks, in silico and in vitro assays were conducted and demonstrated the absence of endocrine disruption activity for these new molecules

    Straightforward sustainable synthesis of novel non-endocrine disruptive bio-based organic UV-B filters with antimicrobial activity

    No full text
    With an increasing demand for safe and natural products from both industries and consumers, paired with the recent ban of decried molecules (i.e. octinoxate, avobenzone or octocrylene) due to their high negative impact on humans and the environment (i.e. endocrine disruption, coral bleaching), safe bio-based alternatives are a necessary and promising surrogate to substitute current commercialized petroleum-based UV filters. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules, displaying interesting UV-B filtering properties and great photostability were developed from furfural and 5-hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF), using the Knoevenagel condensation with a set of green conditions to minimize the impact on environment. Furthermore, those furfural- and HMF-based molecules demonstrated antimicrobial properties as secondary activity, highly sought by industries. Some furan derivatives being recognized to exhibit toxicological risks, in silico and in vitro assays were conducted and demonstrated the absence of endocrine disruption activity for these new molecules.</p
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