Dynamique et échanges sédimentaires en rade de Brest impactés par l'invasion de crépidules

This thesis is a contribution to the study of sediment dynamic in the ecosystem of the bay of Brest. It aims at describing, by numerical simulations and field observations, the movement of water and sediments in the bay under tidal forcing, and the impact of the present spatial distribution of slipper limpets on suspended sediment transport and bed evolution. A two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) model is implemented based on the TELEMAC numerical system. It integrates the spatial variability of bed sediments, accounts for the physical presence (macro-roughness, form drag - skin friction partitioning) and biological activity (filtration of water carrying suspended particles, production of biodeposit) of slipper limpets. Measurements of water level, mean flow velocity, and friction velocity satisfactorily validate the choice of parameters in the hydrodynamic model. Measurements of suspended matter concentration in the bay of Brest are sporadic, and their analysis complicated. The sediment model stands as a tool for better understanding sedimentary processes. It informs the temporal evolution of the contribution of different types of sediment, and their origin, to local suspended and deposited sediment concentrations. It allows to follow the paths of sediment transport predominantly in suspension, and to quantify the exchanges of sediments between the sub-basins of the bay and with the bed. The introduction of slipper limpet colonies on the bed, in the form of chains assimilated as cylinders, induces decreasing flow velocity above and in their wake, compensated by increasing flow velocity on the outskirts, which globally modify the patterns of sediment erosion and deposition in the bay. Locally, the macro-roughness elements have an antagonist effect depending on their distribution: medium densities increase skin friction and erosion flux, whereas high densities shelter bed sediments from which results accretion. By comparison to their hydrodynamic impact, the biological activity plays a secondary role on sediment dynamic.Cette thèse est une contribution à l’étude de la dynamique sédimentaire dans l’écosystème de la rade de Brest. Elle a pour objectif de décrire, par la simulation numérique et l’observation in situ, le mouvement des masses d’eau et de sédiments sous l’influence de la marée à l’échelle de la rade, et l’impact de la distribution spatiale actuelle des populations de crépidules sur le transport de sédiments en suspension et l’évolution des fonds. Un modèle bidimensionnel horizontal (2DH) est mis en œuvre à partir du code TELEMAC. Il intègre la variabilité spatiale du substrat, et rend compte de la présence physique (macro-rugosité, partition de la contrainte de cisaillement) et de l’activité biologique (filtration de l’eau chargée de particules en suspension, production de biodépôts) des crépidules. Les mesures de hauteur d’eau, de vitesse du courant, et de vitesse de frottement valident de façon satisfaisante les choix de paramétrisation du modèle hydrodynamique. Les mesures de concentration de matière en suspension en rade de Brest sont sporadiques, et leur analyse est compliquée. Le modèle sédimentaire constitue un outil de compréhension. Il informe de l’évolution temporelle de la contribution de différents types de sédiments et de leur origine aux concentrations locales de sédiments en suspension et déposés. Il permet de suivre le cheminement des sédiments principalement en suspension, de quantifier les échanges entre les sous-bassins de la rade et avec le fond. L’introduction sur le fond des colonies de crépidules, sous forme de chaînes assimilées à des cylindres, induit une diminution de la vitesse du courant à l’aplomb et dans leur sillage, compensée par une augmentation en périphérie, entraînant une modification globale des zones d’érosion et de dépôt de sédiments. Localement, les macro-rugosités ont un effet antagoniste selon leur répartition: des densités moyennes augmentent le frottement de peau et les remises en suspension, tandis que des densités élevées induisent un masquage des sédiments sur le fond duquel résulte une accrétion. Par comparaison à leur impact hydrodynamique, l’activité biologique des crépidules joue un rôle secondaire sur la dynamique sédimentaire

Spectral wave dissipation by submerged aquatic vegetation in a back-barrier estuary

© The Author(s), 2017. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Limnology and Oceanography 62 (2017): 736–753, doi:10.1002/lno.10456.Submerged aquatic vegetation is generally thought to attenuate waves, but this interaction remains poorly characterized in shallow-water field settings with locally generated wind waves. Better quantification of wave–vegetation interaction can provide insight to morphodynamic changes in a variety of environments and also is relevant to the planning of nature-based coastal protection measures. Toward that end, an instrumented transect was deployed across a Zostera marina (common eelgrass) meadow in Chincoteague Bay, Maryland/Virginia, U.S.A., to characterize wind-wave transformation within the vegetated region. Field observations revealed wave-height reduction, wave-period transformation, and wave-energy dissipation with distance into the meadow, and the data informed and calibrated a spectral wave model of the study area. The field observations and model results agreed well when local wind forcing and vegetation-induced drag were included in the model, either explicitly as rigid vegetation elements or implicitly as large bed-roughness values. Mean modeled parameters were similar for both the explicit and implicit approaches, but the spectral performance of the explicit approach was poor compared to the implicit approach. The explicit approach over-predicted low-frequency energy within the meadow because the vegetation scheme determines dissipation using mean wavenumber and frequency, in contrast to the bed-friction formulations, which dissipate energy in a variable fashion across frequency bands. Regardless of the vegetation scheme used, vegetation was the most important component of wave dissipation within much of the study area. These results help to quantify the influence of submerged aquatic vegetation on wave dynamics in future model parameterizations, field efforts, and coastal-protection measures.Department of the Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery. U.S. Governmen

Development of a coupled wave-flow-vegetation interaction model

© The Author(s), 2016. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Computers & Geosciences 100 (2017): 76–86, doi:10.1016/j.cageo.2016.12.010.Emergent and submerged vegetation can significantly affect coastal hydrodynamics. However, most deterministic numerical models do not take into account their influence on currents, waves, and turbulence. In this paper, we describe the implementation of a wave-flow-vegetation module into a Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system that includes a flow model (ROMS) and a wave model (SWAN), and illustrate various interacting processes using an idealized shallow basin application. The flow model has been modified to include plant posture-dependent three-dimensional drag, in-canopy wave-induced streaming, and production of turbulent kinetic energy and enstrophy to parameterize vertical mixing. The coupling framework has been updated to exchange vegetation-related variables between the flow model and the wave model to account for wave energy dissipation due to vegetation. This study i) demonstrates the validity of the plant posture-dependent drag parameterization against field measurements, ii) shows that the model is capable of reproducing the mean and turbulent flow field in the presence of vegetation as compared to various laboratory experiments, iii) provides insight into the flow-vegetation interaction through an analysis of the terms in the momentum balance, iv) describes the influence of a submerged vegetation patch on tidal currents and waves separately and combined, and v) proposes future directions for research and development.This study was part of the Estuarine Physical Response to Storms project (GS2-2D), supported by the Department of Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery program

Physical response of a back-barrier estuary to a post-tropical cyclone

© The Author(s), 2017. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 5888–5904, doi:10.1002/2016JC012344.This paper presents a modeling investigation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transport response of Chincoteague Bay (VA/MD, USA) to Hurricane Sandy using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment-Transport (COAWST) modeling system. Several simulation scenarios with different combinations of remote and local forces were conducted to identify the dominant physical processes. While 80% of the water level increase in the bay was due to coastal sea level at the peak of the storm, a rich spatial and temporal variability in water surface slope was induced by local winds and waves. Local wind increased vertical mixing, horizontal exchanges, and flushing through the inlets. Remote waves (swell) enhanced southward flow through wave setup gradients between the inlets, and increased locally generated wave heights. Locally generated waves had a negligible effect on water level but reduced the residual flow up to 70% due to enhanced apparent roughness and breaking-induced forces. Locally generated waves dominated bed shear stress and sediment resuspension in the bay. Sediment transport patterns mirrored the interior coastline shape and generated deposition on inundated areas. The bay served as a source of fine sediment to the inner shelf, and the ocean-facing barrier island accumulated sand from landward-directed overwash. Despite the intensity of the storm forcing, the bathymetric changes in the bay were on the order of centimeters. This work demonstrates the spectrum of responses to storm forcing, and highlights the importance of local and remote processes on back-barrier estuarine function.Department of Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery progra

Quantification of storm-induced bathymetric change in a back-barrier estuary

© The Author(s), 2016. This article is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License. The definitive version was published in Estuaries and Coasts 40 (2017): 22-36, doi:10.1007/s12237-016-0138-5.Geomorphology is a fundamental control on ecological and economic function of estuaries. However, relative to open coasts, there has been little quantification of storm-induced bathymetric change in back-barrier estuaries. Vessel-based and airborne bathymetric mapping can cover large areas quickly, but change detection is difficult because measurement errors can be larger than the actual changes over the storm timescale. We quantified storm-induced bathymetric changes at several locations in Chincoteague Bay, Maryland/Virginia, over the August 2014 to July 2015 period using fixed, downward-looking altimeters and numerical modeling. At sand-dominated shoal sites, measurements showed storm-induced changes on the order of 5 cm, with variability related to stress magnitude and wind direction. Numerical modeling indicates that the predominantly northeasterly wind direction in the fall and winter promotes southwest-directed sediment transport, causing erosion of the northern face of sandy shoals; southwesterly winds in the spring and summer lead to the opposite trend. Our results suggest that storm-induced estuarine bathymetric change magnitudes are often smaller than those detectable with methods such as LiDAR. More precise fixed-sensor methods have the ability to elucidate the geomorphic processes responsible for modulating estuarine bathymetry on the event and seasonal timescale, but are limited spatially. Numerical modeling enables interpretation of broad-scale geomorphic processes and can be used to infer the long-term trajectory of estuarine bathymetric change due to episodic events, when informed by fixed-sensor methods

Dynamic and exchanges of sediments in the bay of Brest impacted by the invasion of slipper limpets

Cette thèse est une contribution à l’étude de la dynamique sédimentaire dans l’écosystème de la rade de Brest. Elle a pour objectif de décrire, par la simulation numérique et l’observation in situ, le mouvement des masses d’eau et de sédiments sous l’influence de la marée à l’échelle de la rade, et l’impact de la distribution spatiale actuelle des populations de crépidules sur le transport de sédiments en suspension et l’évolution des fonds. Un modèle bidimensionnel horizontal (2DH) est mis en œuvre à partir du code TELEMAC. Il intègre la variabilité spatiale du substrat, et rend compte de la présence physique (macro-rugosité, partition de la contrainte de cisaillement) et de l’activité biologique (filtration de l’eau chargée de particules en suspension, production de biodépôts) des crépidules. Les mesures de hauteur d’eau, de vitesse du courant, et de vitesse de frottement valident de façon satisfaisante les choix de paramétrisation du modèle hydrodynamique. Les mesures de concentration de matière en suspension en rade de Brest sont sporadiques, et leur analyse est compliquée. Le modèle sédimentaire constitue un outil de compréhension. Il informe de l’évolution temporelle de la contribution de différents types de sédiments et de leur origine aux concentrations locales de sédiments en suspension et déposés. Il permet de suivre le cheminement des sédiments principalement en suspension, de quantifier les échanges entre les sous-bassins de la rade et avec le fond. L’introduction sur le fond des colonies de crépidules, sous forme de chaînes assimilées à des cylindres, induit une diminution de la vitesse du courant à l’aplomb et dans leur sillage, compensée par une augmentation en périphérie, entraînant une modification globale des zones d’érosion et de dépôt de sédiments. Localement, les macro-rugosités ont un effet antagoniste selon leur répartition: des densités moyennes augmentent le frottement de peau et les remises en suspension, tandis que des densités élevées induisent un masquage des sédiments sur le fond duquel résulte une accrétion. Par comparaison à leur impact hydrodynamique, l’activité biologique des crépidules joue un rôle secondaire sur la dynamique sédimentaire.This thesis is a contribution to the study of sediment dynamic in the ecosystem of the bay of Brest. It aims at describing, by numerical simulations and field observations, the movement of water and sediments in the bay under tidal forcing, and the impact of the present spatial distribution of slipper limpets on suspended sediment transport and bed evolution. A two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) model is implemented based on the TELEMAC numerical system. It integrates the spatial variability of bed sediments, accounts for the physical presence (macro-roughness, form drag - skin friction partitioning) and biological activity (filtration of water carrying suspended particles, production of biodeposit) of slipper limpets. Measurements of water level, mean flow velocity, and friction velocity satisfactorily validate the choice of parameters in the hydrodynamic model. Measurements of suspended matter concentration in the bay of Brest are sporadic, and their analysis complicated. The sediment model stands as a tool for better understanding sedimentary processes. It informs the temporal evolution of the contribution of different types of sediment, and their origin, to local suspended and deposited sediment concentrations. It allows to follow the paths of sediment transport predominantly in suspension, and to quantify the exchanges of sediments between the sub-basins of the bay and with the bed. The introduction of slipper limpet colonies on the bed, in the form of chains assimilated as cylinders, induces decreasing flow velocity above and in their wake, compensated by increasing flow velocity on the outskirts, which globally modify the patterns of sediment erosion and deposition in the bay. Locally, the macro-roughness elements have an antagonist effect depending on their distribution: medium densities increase skin friction and erosion flux, whereas high densities shelter bed sediments from which results accretion. By comparison to their hydrodynamic impact, the biological activity plays a secondary role on sediment dynamic

Modelling dynamics and exchanges of fine sediments in the bay of Brest

International audienc

Numerical Modelling of a Macrotidal Bay over the Last 9,000 Years: An Interdisciplinary Methodology to Understand the Influence of Sea-Level Variations on Tidal Currents in the Bay of Brest

International audienceEstuaries play a major role in the transfer of sediments from the continents to the shelves and deep ocean basins. Their position at the interface between land and sea promotes them as a key area for the understanding of ocean sediment supply, but yet long-term evolution remains poorly understood. The main reasons of the lack of knowledge about estuaries filling are the lack of hydrodynamic data in the past and the temporal application of numerical models. Oceanographers and geologists have developed numerical models to simulate currents and sedimentation. On one hand, hydro-sediment models allow a good physical representation of estuarine hydrodynamic processes and their impact on sedimentation, but only over time-scale spanning years to decades. On the other hand, stratigraphic diffusive models aim to study the impact of various geological processes on sedimentary basins over millions of years, but they are unable to describe in detail the tidal hydrodynamic processes that govern estuaries. In response to this timescale issue, this study presents a first step attempt to explore the evolution of tidal current distribution in relation with Holocene eustatic variations and seafloor evolution. Here we focus on a macro-tidal estuary, the bay of Brest, where tidal processes dominate, as the estuary is naturally protected from ocean swells. This paper aims to set up a methodology to simulate the (past) tidal currents over a long time period and correlate them with sedimentary data. Major changes in deposit dynamics are first identified from cores and seismic data, and the corresponding paleo-topographies and paleo-sea-levels are rebuilt. A process-based hydrodynamic model (MARS3D) is then used to test the impacts of these paleo-bathymetries on hydrodynamics over a 1-year time span. Four scenarii have been considered, representing four key stages of the Holocene transgression in the Bay of Brest. The simulated barotropic currents distributions were analysed and bottom currents impact on the seafloor compared with sedimentary records to understand past hydrodynamic context and associated sediment spatial distribution over geological time scale. Hydrodynamic simulations and sediments records are linked, in order to propose a reconstruction of the tidal influence on sediments over the last 9000 years. The results show changes of the tidal patterns related to the paleoenvironmental evolution (bathymetry and sea-level variations). Even if a hydro-sediment model would be needed to make a direct correlation between simulated currents and sediment records, this successful application in the Bay of Brest shows that discontinuous modelling can help to understand tidal current evolution and their impact on sediment distribution over long periods