Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance

Abstract: Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. Purpose: The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Methods: Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3–5 min of ischemia. Results: Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35–0.94, Adj R2 = 0.53). Conclusions: Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance

Body Composition and Somatotype of Experienced Mountain Climbers

Aims: in order to evaluate body composition and somatotypes , 10 Italian experienced mountain climbers were assessed from an anthropometric point of view, before a high altitude ascent. Body mass, height, girths, skinfolds and bone breadths were gathered and used to calculate body composition and somatotype of each subject. Results: means and standard deviations of the subjects’ anthropometric characteristics were calculated. Mesomorphism (5.28±1.10) is the dominant somatotype component in all but one the participants , endomorphism (1.55±0.49) is low and body fat percentage (11.76%±2.93) is low. Comparisons with athletes involved in other climbing sub-disciplines highlight the specificity of elite mountain climbers anthropometry. Conclusions: The elite mountain climbers in our sample were predominantly mesomorphic with somatotype attitudinal mean values lower than reported for male athletes participating in free-climbing, volleyball, gymnastics and soccer. Anthropometric characteristics may therefore play a role in mountain climbing, even though the trainable components may be more relevant than the non-trainable ones

Anaerobic Capacityestimated in A Single Supramaximal Test in Cycling: Validity and Reliability Analysis

The aim was to verify the validity (i.e., study A) and reliability (i.e., study B) of the alternative maximal accumulated oxygen deficit determined using onlya supramaximal effort (MAOD(ALT))to estimate anaerobic capacity [i.e., estimated by the gold standard maximal accumulated oxygen deficit method (MAOD)] during cycling. In study A, the effects of supramaximal intensities on MAOD(ALT) and the comparison with the MAOD were investigated in fourteen active subjects (26 ± 6 years). In study B, the test-retest reliability was investigated, where fourteen male amateur cyclists (29 ± 5 years) performed the MAOD(ALT) twice at 115% of the intensity associated to maximal oxygen uptake ([Image: see text]). MAOD(ALT) determined at 130 and 150% of [Image: see text] was lower than MAOD (p ≤ 0.048), but no differences between MAOD(ALT) determined at 100, 105, 110, 115, 120 and 140% of [Image: see text] (3.58 ± 0.53L; 3.58 ± 0.59L; 3.53 ± 0.52L; 3.48 ± 0.72L; 3.52 ± 0.61L and 3.46 ± 0.69L, respectively) with MAOD (3.99 ± 0.64L). The MAOD(ALT) determined from the intensities between 110 and 120% of [Image: see text] presented the better agreement and concordance with MAOD. In the test-retest, the MAOD(ALT) was not different (p > 0.05), showed high reproducibility when expressed in absolute values (ICC = 0.96, p < 0.01), and a good level of agreement in the Bland-Altman plot analysis (mean differences ± CI95%:−0.16 ± 0.53L). Thus, the MAOD(ALT) seems to be valid and reliable to assess anaerobic capacity in cycling

Respostas lactacidêmicas de ratos ao treinamento intermitente de alta intensidade

Durante contrações musculares de alta intensidade intervaladas por curtos períodos de tempo há importante participação do metabolismo glicolítico e, consequentemente, aumento das concentrações de lactato sanguíneo. O objetivo do estudo foi avaliar as respostas lactacidêmicas agudas e crônicas de ratos Wistar submetidos a um treinamento intermitente de alta intensidade (salto tipo jump squat) de três sessões semanais, a cada 24h, três séries de 12 repetições com intervalos de 60s entre cada uma. Houve aumento das concentrações de lactato sanguíneo durante a sessão aguda do treinamento (lactacidemia basal vs. lactacidemia após último esforço, P < 0,001). Contrariamente, após seis semanas de treinamento, ocorreu redução de 49% na resposta lactacidêmica ao exercício em relação à primeira sessão, P = 0,0002. O exercício intermitente de alta intensidade intervalado favorece a participação do sistema glicolítico; no entanto, o treinamento intermitente de alta intensidade promove redução das respostas lactacidêmicas, sugerindo melhora da capacidade de ressíntese de fosfocreatina e da biogênese mitocondrial