Plant Cell Cultures as Source of Cosmetic Active Ingredients

The last decades witnessed a great demand of natural remedies. As a result, medicinal plants have been increasingly cultivated on a commercial scale, but the yield, the productive quality and the safety have not always been satisfactory. Plant cell cultures provide useful alternatives for the production of active ingredients for biomedical and cosmetic uses, since they represent standardized, contaminant-free and biosustainable systems, which allow the production of desired compounds on an industrial scale. Moreover, thanks to their totipotency, plant cells grown as liquid suspension cultures can be used as “biofactories” for the production of commercially interesting secondary metabolites, which are in many cases synthesized in low amounts in plant tissues and differentially distributed in the plant organs, such as roots, leaves, flowers or fruits. Although it is very widespread in the pharmaceutical industry, plant cell culture technology is not yet very common in the cosmetic field. The aim of the present review is to focus on the successful research accomplishments in the development of plant cell cultures for the production of active ingredients for cosmetic applications

New Trends in Cosmetics: By-Products of Plant Origin and Their Potential Use as Cosmetic Active Ingredients

In recent years, the amount of waste deriving from industrial processes has increased substantially. Many industries produce different types of disposable by-products, rich in valuable compounds. Their characterization and valorization could not only convert them into high value products with application in diverse biotechnological fields, such as Pharmaceutics, Food or Cosmetics, but would also reduce the waste environmental impact and the related treatment costs. There are many examples of cosmetic active ingredients deriving from fish, meat and dairy products, but in the present review we would like to focus on the potentialities and the current use of compounds and extracts deriving from agronomical disposable wastes in the cosmetic field. These types of products are effective, inexpensive and bio-sustainable, and thus represent a valid alternative to the regular plant derived extracts, more commonly adopted in cosmetic formulations. Moreover, if the waste products come from organic farming, they are certainly an even more valuable source of safe extracts for Cosmetics, since they lack any residual pesticide or potentially toxic chemical

Effective Active Ingredients Obtained through Biotechnology

The history of cosmetics develops in parallel to the history of man, associated with fishing, hunting, and superstition in the beginning, and later with medicine and pharmacy. Over the ages, together with human progress, cosmetics have changed continuously and nowadays the cosmetic market is global and highly competitive, where terms such as quality, efficacy and safety are essential. Consumers’ demands are extremely sophisticated, and thus scientific research and product development have become vital to meet them. Moreover, consumers are aware about environmental and sustainability issues, and thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. The latest tendencies of cosmetics are based on advanced research into how to interfere with skin cell aging: research includes the use of biotechnology-derived ingredients and the analysis of their effects on the biology of the cells, in terms of gene regulation, protein expression and enzymatic activity measures. In this review, we will provide some examples of cosmetic active ingredients developed through biotechnological systems, whose activity on the skin has been scientifically proved through in vitro and clinical studies

Plant Extracellular Vesicles: Current Landscape and Future Directions

Plant cells secrete membrane-enclosed micrometer- and nanometer-sized vesicles that, similarly to the extracellular vesicles (EVs) released by mammalian or bacterial cells, carry a complex molecular cargo of proteins, nucleic acids, lipids, and primary and secondary metabolites. While it is technically complicated to isolate EVs from whole plants or their tissues, in vitro plant cell cultures provide excellent model systems for their study. Plant EVs have been isolated from the conditioned culture media of plant cell, pollen, hairy root, and protoplast cultures, and recent studies have gathered important structural and biological data that provide a framework to decipher their physiological roles and unveil previously unacknowledged links to their diverse biological functions. The primary function of plant EVs seems to be in the secretion that underlies cell growth and morphogenesis, cell wall composition, and cell–cell communication processes. Besides their physiological functions, plant EVs may participate in defence mechanisms against different plant pathogens, including fungi, viruses, and bacteria. Whereas edible and medicinal-plant-derived nanovesicles isolated from homogenised plant materials ex vivo are widely studied and exploited, today, plant EV research is still in its infancy. This review, for the first time, highlights the different in vitro sources that have been used to isolate plant EVs, together with the structural and biological studies that investigate the molecular cargo, and pinpoints the possible role of plant EVs as mediators in plant–pathogen interactions, which may contribute to opening up new scenarios for agricultural applications, biotechnology, and innovative strategies for plant disease management

Characterization of a Developmental Root Response Caused by External Ammonium Supply in Lotus japonicus1[C][W]

Plants respond to changes of nutrient availability in the soil by modulating their root system developmental plan. This response is mediated by systemic changes of the nutritional status and/or by local perception of specific signals. The effect of nitrate on Arabidopsis (Arabidopsis thaliana) root development represents a paradigm of these responses, and nitrate transporters are involved both in local and systemic control. Ammonium (NH4+) represents an important nitrogen (N) source for plants, although toxicity symptoms are often associated with high NH4+ concentration when this is present as the only N source. The reason for these effects is still controversial, and mechanisms associating ammonium supply and plant developmental programs are completely unknown. We determined in Lotus japonicus the range of ammonium concentration that significantly inhibits the elongation of primary and lateral roots without affecting the biomass of the shoot. The comparison of the growth phenotypes in different N conditions indicated the specificity of the ammonium effect, suggesting that this was not mediated by assimilatory negative feedback mechanisms. In the range of inhibitory NH4+ conditions, only the LjAMT1;3 gene, among the members of the LjAMT1 family, showed a strong increased transcription that was reflected by an enlarged topology of expression. Remarkably, the short-root phenotype was phenocopied in transgenic lines by LjAMT1;3 overexpression independently of ammonium supply, and the same phenotype was not induced by another AMT1 member. These data describe a new plant mechanism to cope with environmental changes, giving preliminary information on putative actors involved in this specific ammonium-induced response

The Growth Differentiation Factor 11 is Involved in Skin Fibroblast Ageing and is Induced by a Preparation of Peptides and Sugars Derived from Plant Cell Cultures

Ageing is a complex and progressive phenomenon, during which the accumulation of morphological and chemical changes seriously compromises the capacity of the cells to proliferate and fulfil their biological tasks. The increase in the average age of the world population, associated with a higher occurrence of age-related diseases, is prompting scientific research to look for new strategies and molecular targets that may help in alleviating age-related phenotypes. Growth factors, responsible for modulating several aging markers in many tissues and organs, represent valuable targets to fight age-associated dysfunctions. The growth differentiation factor GDF11, a TGF-β family member, has been associated with the maintenance of youth phenotypes in different human tissues and organs, and in the skin has been related to an inhibition of the inflammatory response. We investigated the role of GDF11 in skin dermal fibroblasts, and we observed that its expression and activity were reduced in fibroblasts deriving from adult donors compared to neonatal ones. The main effect of GDF11 was the induction of collagen I and III, in both neonatal and adult fibroblasts, by triggering Smad signalling in a TGF-β-like fashion. Moreover, by analysing a number of plant extracts having GDF11 inducing activity, we found that a peptide/sugar preparation, obtained from Lotus japonicus somatic embryo cultures, was capable of restoring GDF11 expression in older fibroblasts and to activate the synthesis of collagen I, collagen III and periostin, an important protein involved in collagen assembly. [Figure not available: see fulltext.]

The hydrophobin HYTLO1 secreted by the biocontrol fungus Trichoderma longibrachiatum triggers a NAADP-mediated calcium signalling pathway in Lotus japonicus

Trichoderma filamentous fungi are increasingly used as biocontrol agents and plant biostimulants. Growing evidence indicates that part of the beneficial effects is mediated by the activity of fungal metabolites on the plant host. We have investigated the mechanism of plant perception of HYTLO1, a hydrophobin abundantly secreted by Trichoderma longibrachiatum, which may play an important role in the early stages of the plant-fungus interaction. Aequorin-expressing Lotus japonicus suspension cell cultures responded to HYTLO1 with a rapid cytosolic Ca2+ increase that dissipated within 30 min, followed by the activation of the defence-related genes MPK3, WRK33, and CP450. The Ca2+-dependence of these gene expression was demonstrated by using the extracellular Ca2+ chelator EGTA and Ned-19, a potent inhibitor of the nicotinic acid adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NAADP) receptor in animal cells, which effectively blocked the HYTLO1-induced Ca2+ elevation. Immunocytochemical analyses showed the localization of the fungal hydrophobin at the plant cell surface, where it forms a protein film covering the plant cell wall. Our data demonstrate the Ca2+-mediated perception by plant cells of a key metabolite secreted by a biocontrol fungus, and provide the first evidence of the involvement of NAADP-gated Ca2+ release in a signalling pathway triggered by a biotic stimulus