Influence of Sewing Speed on the Changes of Mechanical Properties of Differently Twisted and Lubricated Threads During the Process of Sewing

U ovom se radu prikazuje istraživanje utjecaja ubodne brzine šivanja na promjene mehaničkih svojstava poliesterskih opređenih konaca, koji su bili uvijeni različitim brojem uvoja i različito parafinirani, tj. u aparatu i na galeti. Tijekom procesa šivanja dolazi do dinamičkih opterećenja konaca u ovisnosti o ubodnoj brzini šivanja, koja uzrokuju veće ili manje promjene mehaničkih svojstava šivaćih konaca. Ustanovljene promjene mnogo su izrazitije kada se šiva većom ubodnom brzinom šivanja, a ovise i o metodi parafiniranja i o intenzitetu uvijanja konaca. Utvrđeno je da se s porastom ubodne brzine šivanja povećava promjena u prekidnoj čvrstoći, prekidnom istezanju i modulu elastičnosti u konce uvijenih vlakana, koja uzrokuju također promjene mehaničkih svojstava konaca nakon procesa šivanja. Istraživanjem otpornosti ispitivanih konaca na dinamička opterećenja tijekom procesa šivanja kod iste ubodne brzine šivanja utvrđeno je da najveću otpornost imaju konci s najmanjim brojem uvoja i oni parafinirani u aparatu.This paper presents a research into the influence of the stitching speed on changes of the mechanical properties of the polyester core-spun sewing threads, which were twisted by different number of thread turns, and different lubrication method (in apparatus and on the galette). The dynamic loading of the threads arises during the sewing process depend on the stitching speed, that causes greater of smaller changes of the threads´mechanical properties. It was found that the expressive changes appear when the sewing process was performed at higher stitching speed, and depend also on the twist intensity and on the lubrication method employed. It was established that with increasing stitching speed increases changes in the breaking tenacity, breaking extension and elasticity modulus of the thread-twisted fibres that provokes also changes of the threads´mechanical properties after the sewing process. On the basis of the research of the threads´resistance on the dynamic loading during the sewing process at the same stitching speed it was found, that the greatest resistance offers the threads twisted with smaller number of the thread turns and threads treated with apparatus lubrication method

CASP Methodology for Virtual Prototyping of Garments for People with Postural Disorders and Spinal Deformities

“Nobody is Perfect” is a phrase we often hear and use for different purposes. It can relate to our physical appearances or behavioral properties. A great share of the world’s population is faced with difficulties caused by postural disorders and spinal deformities. In our chapter we are not dealing with medical points of view. Instead, our intention is to highlight the problems and needs of affected people for suitable, well-fitted, and attractive garments. It is a fact that they need clothing items, not only for everyday use but also for special, festive occasions and sports. Finding suitable garments can be a nightmare for them. Normally, ready-made garments cannot be used if the postural disorders and spinal deformities are very expressive. Therefore, an individual approach is needed for planning, designing, and producing such garments. We propose virtual prototyping and CASP methodology for analyzing digitized geometry supported by computer-aided pattern designs for designing suitable, well-fitted garments for people with postural disorders and spinal deformities. “CASP” stands for Curvature, Acceleration, Symmetry, and Proportionality. It is used for methodology to analyze those four properties on surfaces in a virtual computer environment, as explained further on

3D virtual prototyping of a ski jumpsuit based on a reconstructed body scan model

3D virtual prototyping become a topic of increasing interest of both computer graphics and computer-aided design for apparel production. These technologies are especially important when a garment prototype should be developed for a special purpose, such as ski-jumper suit. Namely, shape and size of a jumpsuit need to be individually adapted to each ski-jumper according to the exact requirements set by FIS (Fédereation Internationale de Ski). The FIS requirements change annually or even more often in order to assure ski-jumpers\u27 safety during competitive ski jumps. The conventional body measurement technique and development of ski-jumpers pattern are time consuming. In order to develop an accurate and rapid design, as well as an adaptable and quickly changeable jumpsuit, different modern technologies were used. The obtained virtual prototypes of a skijumper and a jumpsuit enable both - fast re-modelling according to FIS rules and expeditious development and/or simulations of a jumpsuit. All these measures are taken to improve the aerodynamic design of a suit and jumper\u27s result. The body scanning technology represents a great potential for textile industries and above all for producers of garments. It enables fast and reliable capture of 3D body data and extraction of precise measurements needed for design, construction, visualisation and animation of garments on virtual mannequins. However, there are also some problems related to the scanned body models, caused by the scanning technique. In this article we are discussing the techniques for reconstruction of the body models and its results using the example from one of the competitive sports clothing - ski-jumper suit. In our study we have used different computer graphics programmes in order to reconstruct and prepare the 3D body scan model for successfully importing it into OptiTex CAD programme. The aim of this research was to enable effective 3D virtual garment prototyping using the reconstructed body scan model

Consumers’ knowledge and acceptance of smart clothing

To help innovative products breakthrough in the marketplace, it is necessary to gain consumer trust. However, consumers do not necessarily receive innovations positively and may have various concerns. Innovation involves change, and many consumers are reluctant to change or need more time to gain confidence in an innovative product, whether in terms of its usefulness, benefits, price, appearance, etc. Therefore, consumers’ lack of knowledge and acceptance of innovations may be one of the key reasons why many innovations fail to come to life in the market. Smart clothing, as a kind of wearable device that combines information and communication technologies and textile materials in a clothing system, has great potential for development and market breakthroughs today. In this study, we investigated the prevalence of smart wearable devices and smart clothing in terms of consumers' knowledge and acceptance of smart clothing by consumers. The results of the survey both serve as a guide for the development of the most desirable smart clothing and indicate the necessary communication strategies for its breakthrough in the market

Neuropeptide Y as a risk factor for cardiorenal disease and cognitive dysfunction in chronic kidney disease: translational opportunities and challenges

Neuropeptide Y (NPY) is a 36-amino-acid peptide member of a family also including peptide YY and pancreatic polypeptide, which are all ligands to Gi/Go coupled receptors. NPY regulates several fundamental biologic functions including appetite/satiety, sex and reproduction, learning and memory, cardiovascular and renal function and immune functions. The mesenteric circulation is a major source of NPY in the blood in man and this peptide is considered a key regulator of gut-brain cross talk. A progressive increase in circulating NPY accompanies the progression of chronic kidney disease (CKD) toward kidney failure and NPY robustly predicts cardiovascular events in this population. Furthermore, NPY is suspected as a possible player in accelerated cognitive function decline and dementia in patients with CKD and in dialysis patients. In theory, interfering with the NPY system has relevant potential for the treatment of diverse diseases from cardiovascular and renal diseases to diseases of the central nervous system. Pharmaceutical formulations for effective drug delivery and cost, as well as the complexity of diseases potentially addressable by NPY/NPY antagonists, have been a problem until now. This in part explains the slow progress of knowledge about the NPY system in the clinical arena. There is now renewed research interest in the NPY system in psychopharmacology and in pharmacology in general and new studies and a new breed of clinical trials may eventually bring the expected benefits in human health with drugs interfering with this system

Textile Forms’ Computer Simulation Techniques

Computer simulation techniques of textile forms already represent an important tool for textile and garment designers, since they offer numerous advantages, such as quick and simple introduction of changes while developing a model in comparison with conventional techniques. Therefore, the modeling and simulation of textile forms will always be an important issue and challenge for the researchers, since close‐to‐reality models are essential for understanding the performance and behavior of textile materials. This chapter deals with computer simulation of different textile forms. In the introductory part, it reviews the development of complex modeling and simulation techniques related to different textile forms. The main part of the chapter focuses on study of the fabric and fused panel drape by using the finite element method and on development of some representative textile forms, above all, on functional and protective clothing for persons who are sitting during performing different activities. Computer simulation techniques and scanned 3D body models in a sitting posture are used for this purpose. Engineering approaches to textile forms’ design for particular purposes, presented in this chapter, show benefits and limitations of specific 3D body scanning and computer simulation techniques and outline the future research challenges

Priority questions in multidisciplinary drought research

Addressing timely and relevant questions across a multitude of spatio-temporal scales, state-of-the-art interdisciplinary drought research will likely increase in importance under projected climate change. Given the complexity of the various direct and indirect causes and consequences of a drier world, scientific tasks need to be coordinated efficiently. Drought-related research endeavors ranging from individual projects to global initiatives therefore require prioritization. Here, we present 60 priority questions for optimizing future drought research. This topical catalogue reflects the experience of 65 scholars from 21 countries and almost 20 fields of research in both natural sciences and the humanities. The set of drought-related questions primarily covers drought monitoring, impacts, forecasting, climatology, adaptation, as well as planning and policy. The questions highlight the increasingly important role of remote sensing techniques in drought monitoring, importance of drought forecasting and understanding the relationships between drought parameters and drought impacts, but also challenges of drought adaptation and preparedness policies