Capability based-approach: re-Invent people and materials viable relationships

Sustainability as an approach to the contemporary textile and fashion design; not only linked to the environmental vision but concerning the economy, respect for people's work and production. “A new dominant social paradigm (DSP) would focus on creating apparel products that are more efficient in material use, production and consumer utility, as well as better meeting the human needs of the consumer base, inherently more social than material needs. Similarly, clothing education in the dominant new social paradigm would promote the development of skills that would most likely include understanding human needs and ecosystem limitations, working collaboratively with the market rather than trying to dominate it and an understanding of local culture and tradition " (LeHew, 2011).Sustentabilidade como abordagem ao design contemporâneo têxtil e de moda; não só ligada à visão ambiental, mas no que diz respeito à economia, ao respeito pelo trabalho das pessoas e à produção. “Um novo paradigma social dominante (DSP) se concentraria na criação de produtos de vestuário mais eficientes no uso de materiais, produção e utilidade para o consumidor, bem como em atender melhor às necessidades humanas da base de consumidores, inerentemente mais sociais do que materiais. Da mesma forma, a educação do vestuário no novo paradigma social dominante, promoveria o desenvolvimento de habilidades que provavelmente incluiriam a compreensão das necessidades humanas e das limitações do ecossistema, trabalhando em colaboração com o mercado ao invés de tentar dominá-lo e uma compreensão da cultura e tradição local "(LeHew , 2011)

Colorectal Cancer Stage at Diagnosis Before vs During the COVID-19 Pandemic in Italy

IMPORTANCE Delays in screening programs and the reluctance of patients to seek medical attention because of the outbreak of SARS-CoV-2 could be associated with the risk of more advanced colorectal cancers at diagnosis. OBJECTIVE To evaluate whether the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic was associated with more advanced oncologic stage and change in clinical presentation for patients with colorectal cancer. DESIGN, SETTING, AND PARTICIPANTS This retrospective, multicenter cohort study included all 17 938 adult patients who underwent surgery for colorectal cancer from March 1, 2020, to December 31, 2021 (pandemic period), and from January 1, 2018, to February 29, 2020 (prepandemic period), in 81 participating centers in Italy, including tertiary centers and community hospitals. Follow-up was 30 days from surgery. EXPOSURES Any type of surgical procedure for colorectal cancer, including explorative surgery, palliative procedures, and atypical or segmental resections. MAIN OUTCOMES AND MEASURES The primary outcome was advanced stage of colorectal cancer at diagnosis. Secondary outcomes were distant metastasis, T4 stage, aggressive biology (defined as cancer with at least 1 of the following characteristics: signet ring cells, mucinous tumor, budding, lymphovascular invasion, perineural invasion, and lymphangitis), stenotic lesion, emergency surgery, and palliative surgery. The independent association between the pandemic period and the outcomes was assessed using multivariate random-effects logistic regression, with hospital as the cluster variable. RESULTS A total of 17 938 patients (10 007 men [55.8%]; mean [SD] age, 70.6 [12.2] years) underwent surgery for colorectal cancer: 7796 (43.5%) during the pandemic period and 10 142 (56.5%) during the prepandemic period. Logistic regression indicated that the pandemic period was significantly associated with an increased rate of advanced-stage colorectal cancer (odds ratio [OR], 1.07; 95%CI, 1.01-1.13; P = .03), aggressive biology (OR, 1.32; 95%CI, 1.15-1.53; P < .001), and stenotic lesions (OR, 1.15; 95%CI, 1.01-1.31; P = .03). CONCLUSIONS AND RELEVANCE This cohort study suggests a significant association between the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic and the risk of a more advanced oncologic stage at diagnosis among patients undergoing surgery for colorectal cancer and might indicate a potential reduction of survival for these patients

Perspectives of Design for Recycling in Fashion System. Redefining fashion waste value models

The Fashion industry is facing significant structural and systemic challenges that require a paradigm shift. According to Agamben, the resilience of complex systems is the response to the ability to adapt and evolve through the adoption of innovative and alternative approaches that are able to transfigure reality by overcoming apparent difficulties. The notion of untimeliness, in particular, assumes a crucial role in building resilience based on innovation and sustainability. The latter is defined as a dynamic form that requires a constant process of reinvention, using apparent damage as an opportunity to evolve toward substantial improvement. Calamities, pandemic threats, food crises, destruction of ecosystems and cultural heritages are just some of the negative phenomena, in many ways dramatic, with which design, increasingly has to deal from a survival perspective, returning to "new basic needs," as well as offering solutions to improve the quality of human life. In Europe, economic growth, closely dependent on increased production and consumption of resources generates harmful effects on the environment, eroding biodiversity, and altering climate stability, health and human well-being. Current production and consumption models do not follow sustainability criteria, triggering irreversible phenomena that require urgent intervention strategies. Earth Overshoot Day signals the date when humanity has used all the biological resources that the Earth regenerates throughout the year. While dramatic, the event stirs the consciousness of individuals, about the limits of the Planet and its depleted resources. An often overlooked but significant contributor to the environmental emergency is the overproduction of clothing. According to the World Bank, the Fashion sector is responsible for 10 percent of annual global carbon emissions. Despite approaches in terms of recycling and reuse, globally 88 percent of recycling refers to polyester from bottles, with only 12 percent of recycled material coming from pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste; moreover, global production of sustainable materials is growing significantly, although there are still negative impacts due to resource leakage in processing. The European framework calls for more efficient management of textile waste, in relation to the development of circular processes in the relevant industry. The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles calls for textiles to be free of harmful substances, durable, recyclable, and made with mandatory minimum amounts of recycled fibers by 2030; a generic statement that without specific objectives, results in non-compliant outcomes. The textile and apparel manufacturing sectors experience damage along the supply chain that needs a thorough investigation into production processes, shining a spotlight on the real possibilities of post-consumer recycling, from sorting to waste management, according to circular economy principles. From the complex relationship between raw materials, design and production practices and ecosystems, innovative solutions are determined by considering fragilities, environmental and social, to restore the balance. The paper brings together several case studies discussing the effectiveness of changing sectors through recycling and upcycling processes, circularity of materials, and reduction through textile waste valorization. Investigating the dynamics governing the post-consumer waste system, it reveals the effectiveness of upcycling processes in tracing patterns and conditions useful for sustainable transformation. The desired response of the textile/clothing sector transposes the paradigm shift between sustainable logic and the design perspective of recycling

Design as the Mediator of new social health culture.

The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated the need for change, raising questions about the current approach to health. The re-definition of the role of health and well-being towards an interdisciplinary approach is knowledge-driven and technology-enabled and the focus of innovation is shifting from the treatment of disease to prediction and prevention. The new model of the 'co-benefit belt' through design activates a process of systemic improvement and extends beyond the digital, pursuing the logic of interaction. The role of Design as a mediator is emphasized, lending itself to emergency situations, to the design of protection devices by implementing multifunctional and shared protection dynamics, intervening in rethinking the universe of devices with Human Centered Design approaches, optimizing methods and processes. The case study presented describes the development of the research project funded by the Campania Region, “Smart&Safe: Design for new individual protection devices”, among the initiatives to fight against Covid-19. The research proposes an update in the redesign of individual Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), to explore a new dimension of the project that highlights the transition to an Individual and Intelligent Protection System (PIIS), reflecting on the various levels of safety faced during health emergencies

Prepararsi ora! Design riparatore e autosufficienza programmata

La crisi climatica si riflette sugli asset dei sistemi produttivi ed economici con conseguenze sull’equilibrio degli scambi interni e sulla cooperazione tra Paesi. Periodicamente si af- frontano minacce e attacchi con conseguenze sulla stabilità geopolitica; si assiste allo sfaldamento di forme di governo e al declino di schemi politici che rappresentavano modelli acquisiti incrollabili. L’agire o non-agire regressivo abilita il design alla rigenerazione dei sistemi locali che possono di nuovo contare sulle proprie risorse tangibili e intangibili; si definisce il concetto di Bioregione che prevede lo sviluppo di una economia compatibile con le risorse locali, in linea con la ricerca From Farm to Clothes, definendo nuovi principi di circolarità dalla rigenerazione di biomasse vegetali

Design for a sustainable and circular way of producing and consuming. A case study on creative recycling focused on social commitment to women's awareness

Sustainability as an approach to contemporary textile and fashion design; is not only related to the environmental vision but concerns co-creative processes between new products, material and immaterial, including people, groups, communities and institutions, in an "iterative" cycle that generates a socially diffused innovation. The emergence of measures to contain overproduction and pollution in the fashion industry, emphasizes the role of design as the main social solver, implementing shared creative dynamics, and intervening in rethinking the universe of textiles and clothing with responsible and efficient approaches. Combining design with industrial processes related to textile waste, biodegradability and recyclability, means adopting concrete strategies that translate the knowledge and experience of advanced research into products; optimizing paths and processes by drawing on research, experimentation and the use of innovative technologies; considering the "new materials" as enabling factors for current and future solutions, and including people from local communities in a territorial development. Clothing education promotes the development of skills that include understanding human needs and ecosystem limits. The role of women in the awareness of the limits of the fashion ecosystem becomes fundamental, activating a collective consciousness capable of using time in a creative and recreational social dimension

0_Textile. A Design Research applying Circular Economy in the textile field

0_Textile si a fabric conceivied as a platfom that integrates variable functions and performances. Designed to be inserted in a circular system that enhances function rather than production, it is characterized by a type of flexible use that fits into a dimension of resilience, which combines continuous service and remanufacturing with the principles of healthcare and comfort. The first application that has been studied in terms of product characterization, and presented here, is dedicated to tourist 2.0 who is about to explore the Near Space in the near future. In this variation, 0_Textile consists of a light textile structure that incorporates conductive gel and gradually released glycerol as well as a series of sensors that monitor vital parameters and make up for specific critical issues deriving from the space environment and the effects of the microgravity on the body

Design as the Mediator of New Social Health Culture. Towards a Co-benefits Model

The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated the need for change, raising questions about the current approach to health. The re-definition of the role of health and well-being towards an interdisciplinary approach is knowledge-driven and technology-enabled and the focus of innovation is shifting from the treatment of disease to prediction and prevention. The new model of the ‘co-benefit belt’ through design activates a process of systemic improvement and extends beyond the digital, pursuing the logic of interaction. The role of Design as a mediator is emphasized, lending itself to emergency situations, to the design of protection devices by implementing multifunctional and shared protection dynamics, intervening in rethinking the universe of devices with Human Centered Design approaches, and optimizing methods and processes. The case study presented describes the development of the research project funded by the Campania Region, “Smart&Safe”. Design for new individual protection devices”, is among the initiatives to fight against Covid-19. The research proposes an update in the redesign of individual Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), to explore a new dimension of the project that highlights the transition to an Individual and Intelligent Protection System (IIPS), reflecting on the various levels of safety faced during health emergencies