107 research outputs found

    Coastal bathymetry estimation using an ensemble of synthetic aperture radar images from Sentinel-1

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    In this study, coastal bathymetry is estimated with a wave ray-tracing algorithm using wave parameters retrieved from Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images acquired by the Sentinel-1 satellites. The method relies on the long swell wave’s detection by SAR imagery and the wave’s properties adjustment to the underwater topography, which can be mathematically related using the linear dispersion relation. The ray-tracing algorithm tracks the shoaling waves until the wave breaking zone, using the wavelength and wave direction retrieved from the 2D directional spectra applied at consecutive sub-images. Then, by inverting the linear wave dispersion relationship, the depth is calculated based on the mean wavelength obtained for each sub-image and maintaining the wave period retrieved at the first offshore position, which is computed using a mean depth from an independent bathymetric source. The output of the algorithm is a bathymetric model that results from the interpolation of the depth computed at each tracking position to a uniform grid and the results are compared with bathymetric information from the General Bathymetric Chart of the Ocean. The use of a monthly ensemble of SAR images, instead of individual ones, to reproduce the bathymetry near Aveiro, Portugal, resulted in a smoother topography with lower relative errors, suggesting that the final bathymetric model retrieved from SAR should result from a combination of SAR images. The methodology presented here to infer the bathymetry using space-borne SAR imagery can be useful to retrieve the mean bottom topography (especially in remote areas where the traditional hydrographic surveying methods are not performed regularly) and to reproduce new underwater structures, such as banks, reefs or bars, which are important to detect for the safety of navigation.Peer Reviewe

    3-D Coastal Bathymetry Simulation from Airborne TOPSAR Polarized Data

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     Ocean Remote Sensing with Synthetic Aperture Radar

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    The ocean covers approximately 71% of the Earth’s surface, 90% of the biosphere and contains 97% of Earth’s water. The Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) can image the ocean surface in all weather conditions and day or night. SAR remote sensing on ocean and coastal monitoring has become a research hotspot in geoscience and remote sensing. This book—Progress in SAR Oceanography—provides an update of the current state of the science on ocean remote sensing with SAR. Overall, the book presents a variety of marine applications, such as, oceanic surface and internal waves, wind, bathymetry, oil spill, coastline and intertidal zone classification, ship and other man-made objects’ detection, as well as remotely sensed data assimilation. The book is aimed at a wide audience, ranging from graduate students, university teachers and working scientists to policy makers and managers. Efforts have been made to highlight general principles as well as the state-of-the-art technologies in the field of SAR Oceanography

    Radar imaging mechanism of marine sand waves at very low grazing angle illumination caused by unique hydrodynamic interactions

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    The investigations carried out between 2002 and 2004 during six field experiments within the Operational Radar and Optical Mapping in monitoring hydrodynamic, morphodynamic and environmental parameters for coastal management (OROMA) project aimed to improve the effectiveness of new remote sensing monitoring technologies such as shipborne imaging radars in coastal waters. The coastal monitoring radar of the GKSS Research Center, Geesthacht, Germany, is based on a Kelvin Hughes RSR 1000 X band (9.42 GHz) vertical (VV) polarized river radar and was mounted on board the research vessel Ludwig Prandtl during the experiments in the Lister Tief, a tidal inlet of the German Bight in the North Sea. The important progress realized in this investigation is the availability of calibrated X band radar data. Another central point of the study is to demonstrate the applicability of the quasi-specular scattering theory in combination with the weak hydrodynamic interaction theory for the radar imaging mechanism of the seabed. Radar data have been taken at very low grazing angles ≤2.6° of flood and ebb tide–oriented sand wave signatures at the sea surface during ebb tidal current phases. Current speeds perpendicular to the sand wave crest ≤0.6 m s−1 have been measured at wind speeds ≤4.5 m s−1 and water depths ≤25 m. The difference between the maximum measured and simulated normalized radar cross section (NRCS) modulation of the ebb tide–oriented sand wave is 27%. For the flood tide–oriented sand wave, a difference of 21% has been calculated. The difference between the minimum measured and simulated NRCS modulation of the ebb tide–oriented sand wave is 10%, and for the flood tide–oriented sand wave, a value of 43% has been derived. Phases of measured and simulated NRCS modulations correspond to asymmetric sand wave slopes. The results of the simulated NRCS modulation show the qualitative trend but do not always quantitatively match the measured NRCS modulation profiles because the quasi-specular scattering theory at very low grazing angle is a first-order theory

    Investigation of baroclinic tides in the northern South China Sea

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    Baroclinic tides result from the interaction of barotropic tides with topography in stratified oceans. They play an important role in driving deep ocean mixing. In this research, investigations of the dynamics of baroclinic tides and internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the northern South China Sea (SCS) are conducted, mainly by means of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology general circulation model (MITgcm). Firstly, simulations of internal wave generation at the Luzon Strait (LS) are carried out. By conducting three-dimensional (3D), high-resolution experiments, it was found that the generated wave field features a multi-modal structure: large, pronounced ISWs of first mode (amplitude ~120 m) and second mode (amplitude ~120 m) were reproduced. The two north-south aligned ridges in the LS contribute together to the generation of the second mode ISWs, whereas the easternmost ridge of the two is responsible for the first mode ISWs. It was found that multiple generation mechanisms of internal waves could occur in this region, and overall it belongs to a mixed lee wave regime. A specific type of short internal waves arose during the 3D simulation. These ride on a second mode ISW with similar phase speed, trailing a first mode ISW. The short waves possess wavelengths of ~1.5 km and amplitudes of ~20 m, and only show up in the upper layer up to a depth of ~500 m. Scrutiny of the generation process showed that these short waves appear in two distinct regions and are produced due to two mechanisms, namely, the disintegration of an inclined baroclinic bore near the LS, and the overtaking of a second mode ISW in the deep water by a faster first mode ISW. Robust evidence has been sought from satellite imagery and by solving the theoretical Taylor-Goldstein Equation to verify their existence. The effects of superposition of multiple tidal harmonics (diurnal and semidiurnal) on the resultant ISW generation were investigated. It was first found that, by analyzing historical observational data, the occurrence of ISWs in the far-field always follow strong semidiurnal barotropic tidal peaks in the LS, regardless of whether it is the maximum for the diurnal or total tidal strength. However, modelling results of MITgcm and a linear internal tide generation model demonstrate that the diurnal tidal harmonics modulate the arrival time and amplitude of the propagating ISWs. Specifically, it leads to the emergence of the so-called A and B type ISWs and an alternation and transition between the two. Secondly, the shoaling process of ISWs in the northern SCS slope-shelf area is investigated. A series of two-dimensional (2D) experiments are set up to study the shoaling of a large-amplitude second mode concave ISW over a linear slope that resembles the SCS slope. Modelling results show that a strong transformation of the wave profile starts to take place when the wave is approaching the shelf break. A convex type wave is born at the trailing edge of the incident wave and gradually disintegrates into a group of ISWs due to the steepening of the rear wave profile. The frontal face of the wave gets flatter when travelling on the slope, but forms a steep structure right above the shelf break. However, this steep structure shows no tendency to evolve into an ISW: instead, it gets increasingly flat again while evolving on the shelf. The trailing convex wave packet travels faster and merges with the frontal concave wave. Finally, a wave packet with rank-ordered convex ISWs moves forward steadily on the shelf. Energy transfer to the ambient modes is evident, as both first mode and higher modes are clearly seen during and after the shoaling process. First mode ISW evolution is studied too by performing 3D, high-resolution experiments over the wide northern SCS slope and shelf area. It was found that the wave profiles change drastically near the shelf break and the Dongsha Atoll. In agreement with satellite imagery, the wavefront of the leading ISW becomes more spatially oblique with respect to its original orientation as it progresses westward due to the inclination of the slope in the topography. Wave disintegration is prominent in the shallow water zone, and wave polarity reverses near the turning point (at the 130 m isobath), which is consistent with the predictions of weakly nonlinear theory. A series of 2D experiments were set up to inspect the effects of rotation on the shoaling ISW. The results indicate that under the rotation, upon reaching the continental shelf, one shoaling ISW could disintegrate into one ISW packet and one secondary solibore that contains a number of rank-ordered waves with much shorter wavelength than an ISW. The secondary solibore is very pronounced in the northern portion of the northern SCS slope and shelf, but could hardly be discerned in the southern portion, which is consistent with the outcome of 3D simulations.China Scholarship Counci

    Hydrocarbon Seepage at Campeche-Sigsbee Salt Province, Southern Gulf of Mexico (Detection, Mapping, and Seafloor Manifestation)

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    Hydrocarbon seepage is a process during which hydrocarbon fluids are emitted from the seafloor into the water column. This phenomenon has been observed globally from continental margins to the deep abyssal. Hydrocarbon seepage has significant impacts on the marine environment such as (a) influence on sediment composition and dynamics at the seafloor, (b) increasing the habitat heterogeneity on seep biodiversity and (c) contributes to the global carbon cycle. However, the occurrence, distribution, and dynamics of hydrocarbon seepage in the marine environment, especially in the deep ocean remains unclear due to limited investigation. The northern Gulf of Mexico is a well-known prolific petroleum-producing region where numerous gas and oil emissions, associated with salt tectonism, have been observed. The Campeche-Sigsbee salt province in the southern GoM is considered to be an analog to the salt province in the northern GoM, but there has been very little research conducted in this region. Based on the occurrence of natural oil slicks on the sea surface resolved by satellite images, previous studies suggested that there is a widespread distribution of oil seeps in the Campeche-Sigsbee salt province. However, there is still a lack of direct evidence for the presence and the distribution of gas emissions. In addition to gas and oil seepage, Chapopote asphalt volcanism, a novel type of hydrocarbon seepage was first introduced in 2003. Since then, submarine asphalt deposits have attracted considerable research interest. This study aims to have a comprehensive understanding of the hydrocarbon seepage system and dynamics in the southern GoM. The objectives are to investigate the distribution of gas emissions and to understand the controlling factors on the distribution. Furthermore, detailed investigations were carried out at Challenger Knoll and Mictlan Knoll to gain a better understanding of the diverse hydrocarbon seepage system including gas and oil emissions, as well as asphalt deposits. Consequently, the research questions about the fate of the methane bubbles and the quantity of gas bubble released from gas emission site are finally addressed in this study. During research cruise M114 of R/V METEOR, a multidisciplinary approach was conducted, including hydroacoustic surveys, visual seafloor observations, and sampling of gas bubbles. Ship-based multibeam echosounder was used for seafloor bathymetry, backscatter and water column flare mapping in the Campeche-Sigsbee salt province. In addition, multibeam echosounder mounted on Autonomous Underwater Vehicle (AUV) was utilized to obtain high-resolution seafloor bathymetry, backscatter, and water column data at Mictlan Knoll. Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) and TV-sled were applied for investigating and documenting seafloor manifestations of hydrocarbon seepage at the seafloor. Gas bubbles were collected by pressure-tight gas bubble samplers operated by ROV at the seafloor of Mictlan Knoll for gas analyses, quantification of gas bubble emissions, and finally gas flux calculation. In summary, gas emissions are found in large numbers in the Campeche-Sigsbee salt province. Their distributions are controlled by the present geological structures. The case study in the Sigsbee Knolls suggests that the edges of flat-top knolls might provide an effective migration pathway for hydrocarbons. As there is no direct evidence for the presence of current oil seepage in the Sigsbee Knolls, we suggested that oil seepage occurs intermittently. Gas, oil seepage and asphalt volcanism are found to occur close together at the Mictlan Knoll, indicating that this diverse hydrocarbon seepage system might be a common phenomenon in the Campeche Knolls. This thesis shows the complex association between the dynamics of diverse hydrocarbon seepage and the geological controls in the southern GoM

    Bathymetry and its Applications

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    Gas bubble emissions at continental margins: Detection, mapping, and quantification

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    The significance of gas bubble emissions at deep-water hydrocarbon seeps on the global carbon cycle is poorly constrained. Methane is, however, an important component regarding past and future climate change scenarios. One of the main motivations of this study was to obtain a better understanding of the sources and transport pathways of gas bubbles in order to evaluate their input to the atmospheric methane inventory. Three areas were investigated, which are located in different geological settings. Gas emissions were found in all three areas, indicating that this is a common phenomenon at different types of hydrocarbon seeps also in deep-water environments. The case studies show that the gas bubble emissions represent an effective pathway to transport methane into the water column. The fate of the gas bubbles while rising through the water column is strongly influenced by hydrate formation around the bubbles. Nevertheless, it was generally observed that the emitted gas bubbles ultimately remain in the ocean interior and thus do not contribute to the atmospheric methane inventory

    Geomorphology from space: A global overview of regional landforms

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    This book, Geomorphology from Space: A Global Overview of Regional Landforms, was published by NASA STIF as a successor to the two earlier works on the same subject: Mission to Earth: LANDSAT views the Earth, and ERTS-1: A New Window on Our Planet. The purpose of the book is threefold: first, to serve as a stimulant in rekindling interest in descriptive geomorphology and landforms analysis at the regional scale; second, to introduce the community of geologists, geographers, and others who analyze the Earth's surficial forms to the practical value of space-acquired remotely sensed data in carrying out their research and applications; and third, to foster more scientific collaboration between geomorphologists who are studying the Earth's landforms and astrogeologists who analyze landforms on other planets and moons in the solar system, thereby strengthening the growing field of comparative planetology

    The marine geology of the Aliwal Shoal, Scottburgh, South Africa.

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    Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Westville, 2012.This study represents the first detailed geological, geophysical and geochronological investigation of the continental shelf surrounding the Aliwal Shoal, ~5 km offshore of Scottburgh, in southern KwaZulu-Natal. Mapping of the seafloor geology using geophysics and direct observations from SCUBA diving transects were integrated with the seismic stratigraphy and constrained by new geochronological data. Four seismic stratigraphic units (A to D) were identified and interpreted with the subsequent sequence stratigraphic model consisting of four incompletely preserved stratigraphic sequences separated by three sequence boundaries (SB1 - SB3) comprising complex reworked subaerial unconformity surfaces. Sequence 1 is the deepest, subdivided by a basin-wide marine flooding surface (MFS1) into a lower Campanian (and possible Santonian) TST and an upper Maastrichtian combined regressive systems tract comprising HST/FRST deposits. SB1 follows Sequence 1 and spans most of the Tertiary representing multiple erosional events. Shelf sedimentation resumed during the Late Pliocene to early Pleistocene with deposition of Sequence 2, the shelf-edge wedge, which again was followed by erosion and non-deposition during the high frequency and amplitude Early to Middle Pleistocene sea-level fluctuations resulting in the formation of SB2. Sequence 3 consists of coast-parallel, carbonate cemented aeolianite palaeo-shoreline ridges of various ages overlying Sequence 1 and 2. Sequence 4 unconformably overlies all the earlier sequences and comprises a lower TST component displaying characteristic retrogradational stacking patterns and an upper local HST clinoform component showing progradation and downlapping. Inner and middle shelf TST units constrained between Sequence 3 ridges form thick sediment deposits showing a progression from lagoonal and lower fluvial-estuarine deposits, overlain by foreshore and shoreface sands, documenting the changing depositional environments in response to a sea-level transgression. Laterally, in the absence if Sequence 3 ridges, TST sediments comprise only a thin transgressive sand sheet. The upper HST component comprises a prograding shore-attached subaqueous-delta clinoform sediment deposit, the Mkomazi Subaqueous-Delta Clinoform (MSDC) which evolved in four stages. An initialization and progradation stage (Stage 1) (9.5 to 8.4 ka cal. B.P.) was interrupted by retrogradation (Stage 2) and backstepping of the system due to rapid sea-level rise between 8.4 to 8.2 ka cal B.P. Stage 2 backstepping of the clinoform controlled the subsequent overlying topset morphologies resulting in later stages inheriting a stepped appearance upon which shoreface-connected ridges (SCR’s) are developed. Stages 3 (8.2 to 7.5 ka cal. B.P.) and 4 (7.5 to 0 ka cal. B.P) show a change from ‘proximal’ topset aggradation to ‘distal’ foreset progradational downlap, linked to a change in the dominant sedimentary transport mechanism from aggradational alongshore to progradational cross-shore related to variations in accommodation space and the rate of sediment supply. Morphologically the MSDC is characteristic of sediment input onto a high energy storm-dominated continental shelf where oceanographic processes are responsible for its northward directed asymmetry in plan-view, for the lack of a well defined bottomset and for the re-organisation of its topset into very large SCR’s. The SCR’s are 1 - 6 m in height, spaced 500 to >1350 m apart and vary from 3 km to >8 km in length, attached on their shoreward portions to the shoreface between depths of -10 m to -15 m (average at -13 m) and traceable to depths exceeding -50 m, although the majority occur on the inner shelf between -20 m to -30 m. Several individual crests can be identified forming a giant shoreface-connected sand ridge field with a sigmoidal pattern in plan-view postulated to be a surficial expression of the subjacent retrogradational phase (MSDC Stage 2). SCR’s development occurred in two stages. Stage 1 involved deposition of sediment on the shoreface and ridge initiation during the MSDC Stage 2 retrogradational event. Sediment was reworked during sea-level rise generating clinoforms with proximal along-shore aggradation and distal across-shore progradation. This occurred during the last post-glacial sea-level rise from ca. 8.4 ka cal. B.P. SCR Stage 2 represents modern maintenance of the SCR system which is continually modified and maintained by shelf processes and consists of two physical states. State 1 considers SCR maintenance during fair-weather conditions when transverse ridge migration is dominant and driven by the north-easterly flowing counter current shelf circulation. State 2 considers SCR development during storm conditions when longitudinal ridge growth is suggested to occur as a result of storm return flows. Following the storm, the regional coast-parallel current system is restored and the fair-weather state then moulds the SCRs into a transverse bedform. Deposition on the MSDC is ongoing on a continental shelf that is still in a transgressive regime. The exposed seafloor geology comprises late Pleistocene to Holocene aeolianite and beachrock lithologies, deposited as coastal barrier and transgressive shoreface depositional systems. Extensive seafloor sampling was combined with a multi-method geochronological programme, involving the U-series, C14 and optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) to constrain the evolution of the aeolianite and beachrock complex. The Aliwal Shoal Sequence 3 ridge comprises three distinct aeolianite units (A1 to A3) which represent different types of dune morphologies deposited during the climatic and associated sea-level fluctuations of MIS 5. Units A1 and A2 deposited during the MIS 6/5e (~134 to ~127 ka cal. B.P.) transgression represent contemporaneous evolution of a coastal barrier system which consisted of two different dune forms associated with a back-barrier estuarine or lagoonal system. Unit A1 most likely originated as a longitudinal coastal dune whilst Unit A2 comprised a compound parabolic dune system that migrated into the back-barrier area across an estuary mouth/tidal inlet of the back-barrier system. The coastal barrier-dune configuration established by Unit A1 and A2 was most likely re-established during similar subsequent MIS 5 sea-level stands which during MIS 5c/b resulting in the formation of the back-barrier dune system of Unit A3. Palaeoclimatic inferences from Units A1 and A2 aeolianite wind vectors indicate a change from cooler post-glacial climates (lower Unit A1) to warmer interglacial-like conditions more similar to the present (upper Unit A1 and Unit A2). Unit A3 palaeowind vector data show variability interpreted to be related to global MIS 5c climatic instability and fluctuations. For Units A1, A2 and A3 pervasive early meteoric low-magnesium calcite (LMC) cementation followed shortly after deposition protecting the dune cores from erosion during subsequent sea-level fluctuations. Sea-spray induced vadose cementation in Units A1 and A2 may have been a key factor in stabilising dune sediment before later phreatic meteoric cementation. The final preserved Late Pleistocene depositional event in the study area was that of the storm deposit of beachrock Unit B5. Induration followed shortly after deposition by marine vadose high-magnesium calcite (HMC) cementation. Following deposition and lithification, Units A1, A2, A3 and B5 underwent a period of cement erosion associated with decementation and increased porosity due to either 1) groundwater table fluctuations related to the high frequency MIS 5 sea-level fluctuations and/or 2) carbonate solution due to complete subaerial exposure related to the overall MIS 4 - 2 sea-level depression towards the LGM lowstand. In addition to the decementation and porosity development Unit B5 also experienced inversion of the original unstable HMC cement to LMC. During MIS 4 to 2 the Aliwal shelf comprised an interfluve area which was characterised by subaerial exposure, fluvial incision of coast-parallel tributary river systems and general sediment starvation. Beachrock Units B1 to B4 were deposited in the intertidal to back-beach environments and subsequently rapidly cemented by marine phreatic carbonate cements comprising either aragonite or HMC. Unit B1 was most likely deposited at 10.8 ka cal. B.P., B2 at 10.2 ka cal. B.P, B3 at 9.8 ka cal. B.P and B4 <9.8 ka cal. B.P. thereby indicating sequential formation during the meltwater pulse 1b (MWP-1b) interval of the last deglacial sea-level rise. Unit B3 marks the change from a log-spiral bay coastal configuration established by Units B1 and B2 to a linear coastline orientation controlled by the trend of the pre-existing aeolianite units. This change in the morphology of the coastline is also documented by the shape of the underlying transgressive ravinement surface (reflector TRS, Sequence 4) which again was controlled by the subjacent sedimentary basin fill architecture and subsequent transgressive shoreline trajectory (Sequence 4). Sea-level rose at an average rate of 67 cm/100 years from B1 to B2 and 86 cm/100 years from B2 to B2 indicating an acceleration in the rate of sea-level rise supporting enhanced rates of sea-level rise during the MWP-1b interval which also seemed to have altered the coastal configuration and resulted in the closure of the southern outlet of the back-barrier estuarine system. Two cycles of initial aragonite followed by later HMC cement are tentatively linked to two marine flooding events related to different pulses of enhanced rates of sea-level rise during MWP-1b which are considered responsible for significant changes in the marine carbon reservoir ages. Comparisons of the U-series, C14 and optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) methods have shown OSL to be the most reliable method applied to dating submerged aeolianites and beachrocks. OSL not only provides the depositional age of the sediment but also does not suffer from open system behaviour, such as marine reservoir changes and contamination. Acoustic classification of the unconsolidated sediment samples resulted in the demarcation of 3 major acoustic facies, C to E, interpreted with sample analyses as quartzose shelf sand (C), reef-associated bioclastic-rich sand (D) and an unconsolidated lag and debris deposit (E). Grain size distribution patterns of the unconsolidated seafloor sediments indicate that the SCR system delivers fine and medium sand to the inner and middle shelf and imparts a general N-S trending pattern to the gravel and sand fractions. In addition grain size distributions support selective erosion of the seaward flank of the Sandridge with the remobilised sediment deposited in the Basin as low amplitude bedforms over the Facies E lag and debris pavement. The mud fraction is interpreted to be deposited by gravity settling from buoyant mud-rich plumes generated by river discharge. Integration of acoustic mapping, field observations and sample analyses indicate that the present distribution of the unconsolidated sediment is the result of a highly variable distribution of modern and palimpsest sediments which are continually redistributed and reworked by a complex pattern of bottom currents generated by the interaction of opposing oceanographic and swell driven circulation patterns
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