Contributions for a new body representation paradigm in pattern design. Generation of basic patterns after the mobile body

Tese apresentada à Faculdade de Arquitectura de Lisboa da Universidade Técnica de Lisboa, para obtenção do grau de Doutor em Design

Resizable outerwear templates for virtual design and pattern flattening

The aim of this research was to implement a computer-aided 3D to 2D pattern development technique for outerwear. A preponderance of total clothing consumption is of garments in this category, which are designed to offer the wearer significant levels of ease. Yet there has not previously been on the market any system which offers a practical solution to the problems of 3D design and pattern flattening for clothing in this category. A set of 3D outerwear templates, one for men’s shirts and another for men’s trousers, has been developed to execute pattern flattening from virtual designs and this approach offers significant reduction in time and manpower involvement in the clothing development phase by combining creative and technical garment design processes into a single step. The outerwear templates developed and demonstrated in this research work can provide 3D design platforms for clothing designers to create virtual clothing as a surface layer which can be flattened to create a traditional pattern. Point-Cloud data captured by a modern white-light-based 3D body-scanning system were used as the basic input for creating the outerwear templates. A set of sectional curves, representative of anthropometric size parameters, was extracted from a virtual model generated from the body scan data by using reverse engineering software. These sectional curves were then modified to reproduce the required profile upon which to create items of men’s outerwear. The curves were made symmetrical, as required, before scaling to impart resizability. Using geometric modelling technique, a new surface was generated out of these resizable curves to form the required 3D outerwear templates. Through a set of functionality tests, it has been found that both of the templates developed in this research may be used for virtual design, 3D grading and pattern flattening

The origins and evolution of the bra

This thesis marks the first biography of the evolution of the bra from a designer and patternmaker’s perspective. Although the bra has a very long history, it only became a truly iconic garment in the latter half of the Twentieth Century. To some extent this transformation was driven by rapid social and economic changes, but the evolution of this highly technical garment is also inextricably linked to developments in technology which have led to improvements in materials, design and manufacture. Initially these developments were related to designing a three-dimensional product from a two-dimensional flat patternmaking process, but more recently the advent of the moulded bra has offered opportunities to create a seamless three-dimensional garment without the need to construct a flat pattern, and this has enabled both increased design possibilities and raised the prospect of a better fitting product. Through an investigation of the origins of underwear in general, and the bra in particular, this thesis reviews secondary source historical data to chart major changes in design, patternmaking, and technology from the first recorded uses of underwear to the current challenges facing bra designers and patternmakers in an increasingly globalised industry. This historical review culminates in the identification of two distinctly diverging trends in current bra design and manufacture, both of which face significant challenges in terms of training new designers and producing better sizing and fitting protocols. The two primary source studies which emanate from this historical review contribute new knowledge to each of these diverging directions in bra design. The first study provides an entirely new approach to the teaching, and subsequent current commercial practice of flat patternmaking for what many regard as the ‘traditional’ cut-and-sewn variety of bra. This study culminates in a new way of producing, learning and teaching the art of flat patternmaking, enabling underwear design graduates to leave university with the core skills they need to survive in a fast moving global industry. The second major study investigates the salient challenge of providing an excellent fit for both major types of bra across globally diverse and perhaps ethnically different body types. Consequently, it employs cutting-edge threedimensional body scanning technology to demonstrate how the design, sizing, and 2 fitting of both cut-and-sewn and moulded varieties of garment might be significantly improved in the future. Both primary source data studies therefore stand at the beginning of the future evolution of the most technically complex garment in human history, the not so humble bra

K-State undergraduate catalog, 2002-2004

Course catalogs were published under the following titles: Catalogue of the officers and students of the Kansas State Agricultural College, with a brief history of the institution, 1st (1863/4); Annual catalogue of the officers and students of the Kansas State Agricultural College for, 2nd (1864/5)-4th (1868/9); Catalogue of the officers and students of the Kansas State Agricultural College for the year, 1869-1871/2; Hand-book of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, Kansas, 1873/4; Biennial catalogue of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, Kansas, calendar years, 1875/77; Catalogue of the State Agricultural College of Kansas, 1877/80-1896/97; Annual catalogue of the officers, students and graduates of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, 35th (1897/98)-46th (1908/09); Catalogue, 47th (1909/10)-67th (1929/30); Complete catalogue number, 68th (1930/31)-81st (1943/1944); Catalogue, 1945/1946-1948/1949?; General catalogue, 1949/1950?-1958/1960; General catalog, 1960/1962-1990/1992. Course catalogs then split into undergraduate and graduate catalogs respectively: K-State undergraduate catalog, 1992/1994- ; K-State graduate catalog, 1993/1995-Citation: Kansas State University. (2002). K-State undergraduate catalog, 2002-2004. Manhattan, KS: Kansas State University.Call number: LD2668.A11711 K7

K-State undergraduate catalog, 2004-2006

Course catalogs were published under the following titles: Catalogue of the officers and students of the Kansas State Agricultural College, with a brief history of the institution, 1st (1863/4); Annual catalogue of the officers and students of the Kansas State Agricultural College for, 2nd (1864/5)-4th (1868/9); Catalogue of the officers and students of the Kansas State Agricultural College for the year, 1869-1871/2; Hand-book of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, Kansas, 1873/4; Biennial catalogue of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, Kansas, calendar years, 1875/77; Catalogue of the State Agricultural College of Kansas, 1877/80-1896/97; Annual catalogue of the officers, students and graduates of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, 35th (1897/98)-46th (1908/09); Catalogue, 47th (1909/10)-67th (1929/30); Complete catalogue number, 68th (1930/31)-81st (1943/1944); Catalogue, 1945/1946-1948/1949?; General catalogue, 1949/1950?-1958/1960; General catalog, 1960/1962-1990/1992. Course catalogs then split into undergraduate and graduate catalogs respectively: K-State undergraduate catalog, 1992/1994- ; K-State graduate catalog, 1993/1995-Citation: Kansas State University. (2004). K-State undergraduate catalog, 2004-2006. Manhattan, KS: Kansas State University.Call number: LD2668.A11711 K7