Mundane Fashion: Women, Clothes and Emotional Durability

This research investigates emotional durability of clothing through the lens of a designer-maker practice. The current discourse on fashion futures urgently recognizes that a deeper understanding of the behavioural drivers behind long-term use of clothing is critical in order to move beyond symptom-based solutions to fashion and sustainability such as closed loop recycling and technological innovation. A considerable body of work exists on design strategies for emotional durability. However, empirical evidence that examines their relationship to users’ everyday experiences with clothing is missing. I set to remedy this gap through my own designer-maker practice that investigated women’s routine relationships with the clothes in their wardrobes. Focusing specifically on what matters in everyday use, I examine the possible applications of emotionally durable design in fashion design and making. This approach challenges the imperative of disposability in fashion and foregrounds instead a long-term value-creation enabled through the continuous use of familiar clothes. The thesis structure has three interrelated elements that outline the linear narrative of the research as well as the conceptual and methodological developments. The first part of the thesis outlines the global challenges in fashion production and consumption. The second part introduces and applies ethnographic methods to understanding the sensory wardrobe, and the third concluding stage includes the findings and practical application in the One Thing Collection. Conceptually, the thesis moves from comprehending the macro towards a practical application in the micro. The methodology employs a combination of practical explorations through designer-maker practice with in-depth wardrobe conversations. Adopting methods from narrative enquiry and sensory ethnography, ten women aged between 29-69 were interviewed in their homes. Rich imagery of clothes in use and extended excerpts of wardrobe conversations are essential components of the thesis ethos, these became framed as individual portraits of each of the women. It is stressed that these portraits are significant to the research findings presented in the thesis; the portraits are presented in the Appendices as the nature of sensory ethnography results in details of visual and textual data beyond the confines of the thesis. The findings show that designable characteristics of garments such as shape, style, fit, colour, material, details, or easy care are all significant in contributing to a garment’s emotional durability. However, a truly long-lasting relationship with a piece of clothing results from a complex dynamic between its design, the mode of its acquisition, expectations, fluctuation of personal circumstances, and each woman’s perspective on the relationship between continuity and change. The key insights are articulated through the four themes identified in thematic cross-case analysis of the wardrobe conversations: (1) Enablers, (2) Sensory experiences, (3) Longing and Belonging, and lastly (4) Layering. Each theme is also interpreted through the process of making a corresponding everyday garment that captures the essence of the women’s narratives. This research contributes to the current discourse on emotional durability in fashion design and making and provides new contextual data on user experience of clothing; [See Chapter 7.3 Contribution to knowledge summarized, p. 300]. The research demonstrates that fashion design for emotional durability requires an empathic approach that readily embraces the complexity of everyday life as an opportunity, rather than a hindrance to creative expression. These conclusions are also now embodied in my studio practice with future development of the One Thing Collection that resulted from this thesis

Save Your Wardrobe: Digitalising Sustainable Clothing Consumption

This preliminary research examines the role of digitalisation in changing how consumers respond to, manage and maintain more sustainable approaches to clothing. It brings together the mission and vision of Save Your Wardrobe, with expert consumer researchers from University of Glasgow. Using a qualitative approach (in-depth consumer interviews and wardrobe audits) we explore existing clothing behaviours and how the Save Your Wardrobe (SYW) application (app) could be used as a digital wardrobe management solution

Save Your Wardrobe: Digitalising Sustainable Clothing Consumption

This preliminary research examines the role of digitalisation in changing how consumers respond to, manage and maintain more sustainable approaches to clothing. It brings together the mission and vision of Save Your Wardrobe, with expert consumer researchers from University of Glasgow. Using a qualitative approach (in-depth consumer interviews and wardrobe audits) we explore existing clothing behaviours and how the Save Your Wardrobe (SYW) application (app) could be used as a digital wardrobe management solution

Fashioning the circular economy with disruptive marketing tactics mimicking fast fashion’s exploitation of social capital: a case study exploring the innovative fashion rental business model “Wardrobe”

With the threat of the climate emergency intensifying and limited time left to reduce irreversible consequences, the need to consider how natural resources are excavated and managed from cradle to grave intensifies. This positions the circular economy (CE) as being highly relevant, particularly for the fashion industry, which is criticised for encouraging continued frequent and impulsive consumption of inexpensive garments with limited longevity. Advancing the circular fashion economy (CFE) has received little attention. Limited research to date has found that consumers have not been socialised to consider fashion acquisition as a collaborative or sharing activity, revealing an established attitude–behaviour gap that prohibits the advancement of the sustainable-fashion agenda. Primarily, fashion is imbued with social and emotional capital, as experienced with the dominant social paradigm (DSP) of fast fashion. This paper argues that similar tactics can be adopted for sustainable fashion practices through the CFE by exemplifying a case study of a fashion-renting platform, “Wardrobe,” that enables consumers to rent fashion owned by influencers and celebrities. In doing so, the paper makes four contributions to the knowledge: Firstly, in developing a conceptual framework from research examining fashion, sustainable fashion, and the CFE, the paper illuminates how fashion marketing emphasises social and celebrity capital to appeal to consumer emotions, encouraging frequent impulsive consumption, and how this can be transferred to the CFE. Secondly, the DSP is contextualised alongside the theory of disruptive innovation to understand how social norms of fashion consumption can be disrupted. Thirdly, although there is an emerging literature stream examining the CE and CFE, this focuses more on consumer practice and behaviours, and little attention has been paid to how the CFE can be marketed to engage with consumers. Fourthly, this paper illuminates how similar marketing tactics used by fast fashion can be exploited to advance the CFE

O futuro da economía circular: a moda de segunda man en España

[Abstract] The beginning of the consumer society era or the fast fashion phenomenon have led the planet to generate and accumulate huge amounts of clothing waste. According to data from Asociación Ibérica de Reciclaje Textil (ASIRTEX, 2019), in Spain, an average of 32.35kg of clothing is discarded per person and only 1.7kg is processed correctly. The circular economy, and within this, the marketing of second-hand fashion, is one of the main challenges that, in terms of sustainability, the textile sector must face. For this reason, this Final Degree Project aims to answer three main questions. Firstly, to analyse the situation of second-hand clothing in Spain. Secondly, to find out the position adopted by buyers with respect to the second-hand clothing market. And finally, to determine whether the secondhand market would be a viable option for the circular economy in Spain. In terms of methodology, this work uses different scientific methods. The analytical-synthetic method is applied in the first part of the work (chapters 1-3), where a literature review of previous publications is carried out. After this review, in a deductive way, the possible variables that influence the purchasing decision were selected, with the aim of designing a structured questionnaire. The empirical analysis, on the other hand, makes use of the hypothetical-deductive method, based on the descriptive analysis of the primary data obtained through the survey carried out on 215 people. Finally, based on the information analysed, the main conclusions and contributions are presented in an inductive manner. The empirical evidence shows that in Spain more than half of the people interviewed are consumers of second-hand clothes and that even non-buyers would be willing to buy second-hand if certain conditions were met. People who buy second-hand clothes in Spain are style-conscious consumers, but they are also aware of the environmental impact of second-hand clothes compared to new clothes. They would also be willing to spend more money on clothes that are sustainable. The responses found allow us to affirm that buying second-hand clothes is a buying trend that seems to be on the rise in the coming years. In general, Spanish consumers have received a positive response to second-hand clothing and there is little stigma attached to it, making it a viable option for the circular economy in Spain. Furthermore, it has been found that the pandemic caused by COVID-19 did not have a major impact on the behaviour of second-hand clothing consumers. Ultimately, this work allows us to consider second-hand clothing as a positive part of the potential future of the textile industry. A future that uses resources already present in this planet and that is more sustainable and environmentally friendly.[Resumen] El inicio de la era de la sociedad de consumo o el fenómeno del fast fashion han llevado al planeta a generar y acumular cantidades ingentes de desechos de ropa. Según datos de la Asociación Ibérica de Reciclaje Textil (ASIRTEX, 2019), en España, se desechan una media de 32.35kg de ropa por persona y solo 1.7kg son procesados correctamente. La economía circular, y dentro de ésta, la comercialización de moda de segunda mano, constituyen uno de los principales desafíos que, en términos de sostenibilidad, debe afrontar el sector textil. Por ello, este Trabajo Fin de Grado tiene como objetivo dar respuesta a tres cuestiones principales. En primer lugar, analizar la situación de la ropa de segunda mano en España. En segundo lugar, conocer la posición adoptada por los compradores con respecto al mercado de ropa de segunda mano. Y finalmente, determinar si el mercado de segunda mano sería una opción viable para la economía circular en España. Sobre la metodología, en este trabajo se hace uso de diferentes métodos científicos. El método analítico-sintético se aplica en la primera parte del trabajo (capítulos 1-3), donde se realiza una revisión bibliográfica de publicaciones previas. Tras esta revisión, de un modo deductivo, se han seleccionado las posibles variables que influyen en la decisión de compra, con el objetivo de diseñar un cuestionario estructurado. El análisis empírico, por su parte, hace uso del método hipotéticodeductivo, a partir del análisis descriptivo de los datos primarios obtenidos a través de la encuesta realizada a 215 personas. Finalmente, a partir de la información analizada, de un modo inductivo, se presentan las principales conclusiones y aportaciones. La evidencia empírica muestra que en España más de la mitad de las personas entrevistadas son consumidoras de ropa de segunda mano y que incluso las no compradoras estarían dispuestas a comprar de segunda mano si se dan ciertas condiciones. Las personas que consumen ropa de segunda mano en nuestro país están centradas en el estilo, pero, a su vez, conscientes del impacto medioambiental de la ropa de segunda mano en relación con la ropa nueva. Asimismo, estarían dispuestas a gastar más dinero en prendas que fueran sostenibles. Las respuestas encontradas nos permiten afirmar que la compra de ropa segunda mano es una tendencia de compra que parece irá en aumento en los próximo años. En general, los consumidores españoles han recibido una respuesta positiva a la ropa de segunda mano y existe poco estigma en torno a ella, por lo que sería una opción viable para la economía circular en España. Además, se ha detectado que la pandemia provocada por el COVID-19 no tuvo un gran impacto en el comportamiento de estos consumidores. En última instancia, este trabajo permite considerar las prendas de segunda mano como parte positiva del potencial futuro de la industria textil. Un futuro que utilice recursos ya presentes en nuestro planeta y que sea más sostenible y respetuoso con el medio ambiente.[Resumo] O inicio da era da sociedade de consumo ou o fenómeno da moda rápida levaron ao planeta a xerar e acumular inxentes cantidades de residuos de roupa. Segundo datos da Asociación Ibérica de Reciclaxe Téxtil (ASIRTEX, 2019), en España descártanse unha media de 32,35 kg de roupa por persoa e só se procesan correctamente 1,7 kg. A economía circular, e dentro dela, a venda de moda de segunda man, constitúen un dos principais retos que debe afrontar o sector téxtil en materia de sustentabilidade. Polo tanto, este Traballo Fin de Grao pretende dar resposta a tres preguntas principais. En primeiro lugar, analizar a situación da roupa de segunda man en España. En segundo lugar, coñecer a posición adoptada polos compradores con respecto ao mercado de roupa de segunda man. E por último, determinar se o mercado de segunda man sería unha opción viable para a economía circular en España. En canto á metodoloxía, podemos afirmar que este traballo fai uso de diferentes métodos científicos. O método analítico-sintético aplícase na primeira parte do traballo (capítulos 1-3), onde se realiza unha revisión bibliográfica de publicacións anteriores. Tras esta revisión, de forma dedutiva, seleccionáronse as posibles variables que inflúen na decisión de compra, co obxectivo de deseñar un cuestionario estruturado. A análise empírica, pola súa banda, fai uso do método hipotéticodedutivo, baseado na análise descritiva dos datos primarios obtidos mediante a enquisa a 215 persoas. Finalmente, a partir da información analizada, de xeito inductivo, preséntanse as principais conclusións e achegas. A evidencia empírica mostra que en España máis da metade das persoas entrevistadas son consumidores de roupa de segunda man e que incluso os non compradores estarían dispostos a comprar de segunda man se se cumpren determinadas condicións. As persoas que consumen roupa de segunda man no noso país son consumidores centrados no estilo, pero, ao mesmo tempo, son conscientes do impacto ambiental da roupa de segunda man en relación coa roupa nova. Así mesmo, tamén estarían dispostos a gastar máis cartos en prendas que fosen sostibles. As respostas atopadas permítennos afirmar que a compra de roupa de segunda man é unha tendencia de compra que parece ir en aumento nos próximos anos. En xeral, os consumidores españois recibiron unha resposta positiva á roupa de segunda man e hai pouco estigma ao seu redor, polo que sería unha opción viable para a economía circular en España. Ademais, detectouse que a pandemia provocada polo COVID-19 non tivo un gran impacto no comportamento dos consumidores de roupa de segunda man. En definitiva, este traballo permítenos considerar a roupa de segunda man como parte positiva do potencial de futuro da industria téxtil. Un futuro que utilice recursos xa presentes no noso planeta e que sexa máis sostible e respectuoso co medio ambiente.Traballo fin de grao (UDC.FHD). Xestión Industrial da Moda. Curso 2021/202