Trends and tradition: Negotiating different cultural models in relation to sustainable craft and artisan production

If the identity of ‘design’ as a practice is contested then the relationship of design and designers to craft and craft practices can be hugely confused. This lack of clarity can encourage non-design based organisations to promote the use of ‘trend forecasting’ as a panacea to the design dilemma associated with craft production for non-traditional markets. Consequently fashion sensitive trends become perceived as the driving force of design-led consumption. In this context how do we understand what ‘trend forecasting’ is and becomes when used in this manner? How does it contribute or not to the sustainability of local design cultures? This paper examines how these challenges have been interrogated and experienced through practice at Masters Level at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. It seeks sustainable strategies for design and craft drawing on a diverse range of examples to illustrate contemporary artefacts realised from a diverse range of projects, sources and geographical locations

Colour forecasting: an investigation into how its development and use impacts on accuracy

Colour forecasting is a sector of trend forecasting which is arguably the most important link in the product development process, yet little is known about it, the methodology behind its development or its accuracy. It is part of a global trend forecasting industry valued recently at $36bn, providing information which is developed commercially eighteen months to two years ahead of the season. Used throughout the garment supply chain, by the yarn and fibre manufacturers, the fabric mills, garment designers and retailers, it plays a pivotal role in the fashion and textile industry, but appears in many different forms. Colour forecasts were first commercially produced in 1917, but became more widely used during the 1970s, and in recent years digital versions of colour forecasts have become increasingly popular. The investigation aimed to establish the historical background of the industry, mindful of the considerable changes to fashion manufacturing and retailing in recent decades. For the purposes of the investigation, a period spanning 25 years was selected, from 1985 to 2010. In reviewing the available literature, and the methodologies currently used in developing forecasting information, it became clear that there was a view that the process is very intuitive, and thus a lack of in depth academic literature. This necessitated a considerable quantity of primary research in order to fill the gaps in the knowledge regarding the development, use and accuracy of colour forecasting. A mixed method approach to primary research was required to answer the aim of the thesis, namely to investigate how colour forecasts are compiled, and examine their use, influence and accuracy within the fashion and textiles industry, suggesting methods for developing more accurate forecasts in the future. Interviews were conducted with industry practitioners comprising forecasters, designers and retailers to better understand how colour was developed and used within industry. Two longitudinal studies were carried out with the two largest UK clothing retailers to map their development and use of colour palettes, and understand better how colour contributes to the critical path and supply chain. Two colour development meetings were observed, one with a commercial colour forecaster, the other with an industry association, and two colour archives were studied to establish whether or not any identifiable and predictable colour cycles existed. Data from the interviews and longitudinal studies were analysed using a grounded approach, and revealed some new insights into the influences upon the development of colour forecasts both commercially and from the retailer's perspective. The sell through rates of merchandise, EPOS analysis and range of practices between those interviewed and the two retailers studied provided an interesting insight into working practices and how colour forecasting information is changed when used by the retailers. It was found that a group of core colours existed, which were used season after season, and consistently demonstrated a high sell through rate, such as black, white, grey and navy. In order to establish whether or not colour cycles were consistently predictable in their repetition, two colour forecasting archives were assessed. If predictable colour cycles existed, they would be a useful tool in developing more accurate forecasts. Unfortunately this was not the case, as no clear colour cycles were found. However, the archive, together with evidence from the retailers demonstrated the 'lifecycle' of fashion colours was longer than expected, as they took time to phase in and out. It was concluded that in general the less fashion led brands used their own signature colours and were able to develop colour palettes far later in the product development timeline. This approach could be adopted more widely by retailers and designers as it was discovered that although accuracy rates for colour forecasts are generally accepted to be around 80%, the commercial forecasters provide colour update cards closer to the season where at least 40% of the colours are changed. Very early information, two years ahead of the season is no longer necessary in the contemporary fashion and textiles industry

World textile: selected peer-reviewed full text papers from the 20th AUTEX World Textile Conference

This volume contains selected papers from the 20th AUTEX World Textile Conference (AUTEX 2021, September 5-9, 2021, Portugal, online). Collected articles present to readers' attention a series of research on actual issues of development of the textile industry and the modern status of fashion design. Particular attention is also devoted to some issues of organisation of textile industry engineers' and fashion designers' education. The presented collection will be helpful for specialists whose activities are related to the textile industry and fashion design

Digital laser-dye patterning for PET textiles

A ‘Digital Laser Dye’ (DLD) patterning process was studied as an alternative textile coloration method within a textile design context, relevant to industrial textile procedures. To steer the investigation, the research question asked: ‘How can a digital laser-dye process be developed in order to achieve new ways to colour and pattern polyester textiles for industry?’ Carbon Dioxide (CO2) laser technology was employed to modify polyester (PET) surface fibres for increased dye uptake via engineered tonal graphics using standardized woven and knitted fabrics. An interdisciplinary framework employed to carry out the study involved Optical Engineering, Dyeing Chemistry, Textile Design and Industry Interaction through collaboration with project partners, Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC). In doing so, combined creative, scientific and technical aspects facilitated design innovation using a ‘mixed method’ approach involving quantitative and qualitative methods. Repeatability of the research results, parallel to design development, has established the potential to commercially apply the technique regarding an on-demand manufacture approach. Sportswear and intimate apparel prototypes generated, suggest suitable markets for processing polyester garments in this way. The work is positioned in a practice-led, design research environment, approached from a textile design perspective as a practitioner. Therefore, a practice-led methodology was employed

Production and application of textile materials

This specialized publication is dedicated to technical and technological solutions in textile production. Engineering solutions in the production of fibers and fabrics for both technical and domestic use are considered. Particular attention in the book is given to the study of textile products for biomedical applications. Modern medical fabrics and fibers are used as dressing and suture material and significantly accelerate the recovery processes after surgical operations and burn injuries. Fibers and fabrics are currently often used as a reinforcing element in the production of various composite materials, which are often used in mechanical engineering and in the construction sector. A separate chapter is devoted to textile reinforcing materials. Environmental problems in textile production are mainly related to the dyeing process and the chemical treatment of fabrics and fibers. Some aspects of textile dyeing and wastewater treatment processes are also discussed in this publication. The book will be useful to specialists involved in textile production and related industries

An investigation into textile applications of thermochromic pigments

Methods were developed for application of thermochromic pigments to textiles, based on printing and extrusion, for both leuco dye based and cholesteric liquid crystal thermochromics. The leuco dye based thermochromics were assessed in terms of heat stability, binder optimization and colour saturation using an instrumental colour measurement system. Enhancement of lightfastness of leuco dye based thermochromics was carried out using UV absorbers, HALS and antioxidants as additives. A comparative study was also carried out between printing and extrusion application methods. A colour measurement system with the facility for temperature variation was constructed using two traditional components – a reflectance spectrophotometer and a controllable hot stage. The dynamic colour change of leuco dye based thermochromics with temperature was assessed. The liquid crystals were assessed with temperature for their additive colour mixing properties by layering them over each other. They were also assessed in terms of aspects of applications, such as differences in the over-layering sequence and colour hysteresis on heating and cooling. The results were evaluated not only to provide a scientific understanding of the performance but also to provide useful information from a creative designer’s point of view. The research carried out as described in this thesis has established an improved understanding of the application methods for leuco dye based and liquid crystal thermochromic pigments for optimum performance. The availability and selection of colours achievable with liquid crystal thermochromics have been widened significantly by the improved understanding of the colours derived from over-layered liquid crystals. It is anticipated that this research will broaden the potential for use of leuco dye based and liquid crystal thermochromics in textiles, especially in the fields of functional textiles and creative design

Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling

The clothing and textile industry is a resource-intensive industry and accounts for 3 to 10 percent of global carbon dioxide emissions. In addition, the industry is extremely linear and generates large amounts of waste. For the industry to move from a linear to a circular economy, several solutions are required along the value chain: upstream by working with resource efficiency, the longevity of textile products, and preventing waste; and downstream with techniques for sorting and recycling. In addition, solutions for traceability and transparency need to be developed and coordinated as accepted methods for sustainability measurements. This Special Issue (SI) "Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling" brings together areas of knowledge along the textile value chain to highlight the difficulties and opportunities that exist from both a broader perspective and in specific issues. In this SI, these 11 papers are mainly devoted to new research in traceability, design, textile production, and recycling. Each valuable article included in this Special Issue contributes fundamental knowledge for a transformation of the textile and fashion industry to take place. Numerous studies, solutions, and ideas need to be carried out to create the innovations that will become the reality of our future. Likewise, we need to learn from each other and take advantage of all the fantastic knowledge that is generated globally every day towards a better future for generations to come

The role of gamut, intuition and engagement in colour management in a design context

Colour management is ubiquitous in the digital world. However, despite the many advances in colour management over the last couple of decades, it remains an imperfect process. In the art and design community there is often a level of dissatisfaction and deep cynicism about colour management that can lead to lac of engagement with the process. This research explores colour management in a design context though three issues: the gamut issue, the intuitive issue and the engagement issue; each relates to areas where colour management could better connect with tacit design knowhow. The work focusses on the selection of colour in a digital context since for many users this is the first touch point that they have with colour management. Psychophysical studies have been carried out in both laboratory and design‐studio settings. It is shown that users can better predict the results from subtractive colour mixing than from additive colour mixing. The performance of various types of colour picker are explored and consequences for the design of user interfaces are discussed

The Iowa Homemaker vol.28, no.2

Tantalizing Appetites, Jane Haselton, page 3 Keep Pammel Young Set Busy, Barbara Parsons, page 4 Chart Your Course, page 6 What’s New In Home Economics, Peggy Krenek, page 7 You’ll Be a Calm, Lovely Bride, Janet Sutherland, page 8 Predict Future Positions, Ruth Hackett, page 9 Vicky Takes to the Sun, Jo Ann Breckenridge, page 10 Home Economics Women Invade The Air Waves, Jeanne Wallerius, page 11 Your Summer Work Pays Dividends, Christine Thomson, page 12 Let Your Personality Speak For You, Margaret Rutherford, page 14 Here’s An Idea, page 16 Seniors Advise on Elective Choices, Jo Ann Breckenridge, page 19 Keeping Up With Today, Mary West, page 20 Alums in the News, Patricia Close, page 2