The suit maketh the man: Masculinity and social class in Kingsman: The Secret Service (Vaughn, 2014)

This article outlines the ways in which suits are synonymous with masculinity examining the, sometimes paradoxical, nature of suits worn by men of all social classes, and for different reasons. For example, hegemonic men wear suits in a bid to convey power, arguably, by rendering the wearers uniform in appearance so that the focus is on what hegemonic men might say and do, rather than how they might look. Moreover, the uniformity of suits is a means by which men of a lower social class demonstrate aspiration to a higher social class and might affect hegemonic power through wearing them. While much has been written about masculinity and suits, with many authors agreeing that the bespoke suit is at the pinnacle of the hierarchy of men’s clothing, yet there is a little attention paid to the way in which the bespoke suit is represented in media or popular culture. This article examines the role of clothing of the main characters in the film Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014) with a particular focus on the contribution that the bespoke suit makes to the masculinity of the bodies of the individuals within the film. Principally, the bespoke suit elevates the body of the wearer from quotidian to tailored, the fitting of which allows for better representation of a man’s body

The tailored suit : a reimagining of Can Themba's The Suit

This research report examines the period of 1950s Sophiatown and its socio-­‐cultural legacy pertaining to race and gender. Though the establishment of a cosmopolitan black identity was significant in its undermining of Nationalist Party segregationist ideology, the struggle for equality was predicated on a racial struggle that subsumed a gendered agenda. The work of Can Themba and Drum magazine, which have become mythologized in the contemporary South African imaginary, are interrogated with particular emphasis on one of Themba’s iconic pieces, The Suit. Through engagement with Themba’s text, this research report foregrounds the processes through which black women have been subjected to multiple, compounded subjugation. In response to the representations of black femininity in The Suit, the film component of this report, The Tailored Suit, privileges the black woman, Matilda’s, articulations. It thus functions to foreground the agency of marginalised subjects. In articulating from the periphery, the subjugated destabilise the hierarchical social structures that would subordinate and objectify them. By engaging the representations in The Suit, part of an iconic historic moment prefiguring the contemporary socio-­‐cultural milieu, the reimagining in The Tailored Suit offers a fragmented frame of reference, positing an alternative to a homogenising masculine discourse on history

Demob Suits: One Uniform for Another? Burtons and the Leeds Multiple Tailors' Production of Men's Demobilization Tailoring after the Second World War

This article focuses on the key role played by the Leeds multiple tailors in the production of tailoring for British servicemen demobilized after the Second World War. The government provided each man demobilized with a full outfit of clothing, including underwear, shoes, a hat, coat and tailored wool suit – — the latter commonly described as a ‘demob’ suit. The article explores the significance of demob suits and how they were received by the men who had to wear them, highlighting men’s concern about what they wore. The public rhetoric around the provision of demob suits will be considered within the context of the government restrictions on clothing of the 1940s and the way the suits were produced. The article argues that men’s experience of the made-to-measure system of tailoring by the Leeds multiples influenced many servicemen’s expectations about what constituted acceptable tailoring, fashion and standards of dress for their demob suits

Exchange Rate – Relative Price Nonlinear Cointegration Relationship in Malaysia

The finding of exchange rate–relative price nonlinear cointegration relationship in Malaysia, among others, suggests that nonlinear Purchasing Power Parity (PPP) equilibrium may be regarded as reference point in judging the short run misalignment of the Ringgit currency and thereby deducing effective policy actions. Moreover, economists who wish to extend the simple PPP exchange rate model into the more complicated monetary exchange models may do so comfortably, at least in the text of Malaysia. Nonetheless, such attempt should be tailored in a nonlinear way to suit the nonlinear characteristic of exchange rate behaviour

Fiscal Federalism and Economic Growth

This paper uses an endogenous-growth model with overlapping generations to explore the connection between fiscal federalism and economic growth. The analysis shows that federalism, which allows public-good levels to be tailored to suit the differing demands of young and old consumers, who live in different jurisdictions, increases the incentive to save. This stronger incentive in turn leads to an increase in investment in human capital, and a byproduct of this higher investment is faster economic growth.fiscal federalism, overlapping generations, economic growth, human capital

Understanding Clothing Selection: The Perfect Ways of Choosing Men’s Suit Jacket for Good Grooming

Suit jacket as an outer garment has been able to maintain its exclusivity, dignity and constructional processes over the years. Its production appears very interesting and challenging. Apparently, selecting the right suit jacket for good grooming sometimes seems difficult and, if care is not taken, one may end up opting for wrong size. In some occasions, the choice of lapel type in conformity with an individual’s figure type may create some kind of pandemonium. The study seeks to bring to limelight major issues involving the selection of perfect suit jacket. The specific objectives were to identify the materials for making suit, examine the factors that contribute to perfect suit production and identify some common problems associated with suit construction and selection. The qualitative research design was employed to conduct an in-depth analysis of the core components of a well-tailored suit jacket. Research instruments such as observation and photography were used for the required data of the study. The findings revealed that choosing the perfect suit for good grooming can be challenging since the embodiment of suit jacket involves several technical issues. Again, the vital parts of suit jacket such collar, lapel, shoulders, sleeve and body measurements equally contribute to good fit

Virtual Reality Games for Motor Rehabilitation

This paper presents a fuzzy logic based method to track user satisfaction without the need for devices to monitor users physiological conditions. User satisfaction is the key to any product’s acceptance; computer applications and video games provide a unique opportunity to provide a tailored environment for each user to better suit their needs. We have implemented a non-adaptive fuzzy logic model of emotion, based on the emotional component of the Fuzzy Logic Adaptive Model of Emotion (FLAME) proposed by El-Nasr, to estimate player emotion in UnrealTournament 2004. In this paper we describe the implementation of this system and present the results of one of several play tests. Our research contradicts the current literature that suggests physiological measurements are needed. We show that it is possible to use a software only method to estimate user emotion

Detection, numerical simulation and approximate inversion of optoacoustic signals generated in multi-layered PVA hydrogel based tissue phantoms

In this article we characterize optoacoustic signals generated from layered tissue phantoms via short laser pulses by experimental and numerical means. In particular, we consider the case where scattering is effectively negligible and the absorbed energy density follows Beer-Lambert's law, i.e. is characterized by an exponential decay within the layers and discontinuities at interfaces. We complement experiments on samples with multiple layers, where the material properties are known a priori, with numerical calculations for a pointlike detector, tailored to suit our experimental setup. Experimentally, we characterize the acoustic signal observed by a piezoelectric detector in the acoustic far-field in backward mode and we discuss the implication of acoustic diffraction on our measurements. We further attempt an inversion of an OA signal in the far-field approximation.Comment: 10 pages, 6 figures, supplementary code at https://github.com/omelchert/SONOS.gi

Adaptation in Digital Games: The Effect of Challenge Adjustment on Player Performance and Experience

Good gaming experiences hinge on players being able to have a balance between challenge and skill. However, achieving that balance is challenging, so dynamic difficulty adjustment offers the opportunity to provide better gaming experiences through adapting the challenge in the game to suit an individual’s capabilities. The risk though is that in adapting the difficulty, players do not get a true sense of challenge, but rather some tailored, perhaps watered down experience. In this note, we report on a study, in which we used time manipulation as a method of simple adaptation in order to explore its effect on player experience (PX) and performance. Volunteers played a game in which the timer was adjusted based on their performance in the game, however they were not aware of the feature. The results showed that players in the experimental group found the game more immersive. This provides empirical support that dynamic difficulty adjustment could be used to improve the PX

Localization of atomic ensembles via superfluorescence

The sub-wavelength localization of an ensemble of atoms concentrated to a small volume in space is investigated. The localization relies on the interaction of the ensemble with a standing wave laser field. The light scattered in the interaction of standing wave field and atom ensemble depends on the position of the ensemble relative to the standing wave nodes. This relation can be described by a fluorescence intensity profile, which depends on the standing wave field parameters, the ensemble properties, and which is modified due to collective effects in the ensemble of nearby particles. We demonstrate that the intensity profile can be tailored to suit different localization setups. Finally, we apply these results to two localization schemes. First, we show how to localize an ensemble fixed at a certain position in the standing wave field. Second, we discuss localization of an ensemble passing through the standing wave field.Comment: 7 pages, 6 figure