〔研究ノート〕ベトナムの伝統的な衣服に関する研究 ―2014年，2015年の調査から―

　　For the purpose of preserving traditional clothing and recording its history of Vietnam, the authors visited Hoi An and Tan Chau Village in 2014 and in 2015. This paper offers a brief history of Hoi An and reports the result of interviews with 25 Hoi An residents including experienced elderly ex-tailors; the paper also details figures and describes traditional clothing such as the ao ba ba（jackets）and the quan（bottoms）and formal traditional clothing for funeral attendants and the dead; the paper also discusses ritual practices found mainly in Hoi An. In addition, the report looks at the process of traditional manufacturing of a silk dye work using mac nua（ebony fruits）and other materials. This includes chemical analysis and explanation of the dying handicrafts

衣服重量が頸肩腕負担に与える影響 -なで肩と怒り肩の相違-

By measuring clothing pressure, we examined the influence of clothing weight on cervico-omo-brachial fatigue. The subjects were 10 university students(19-21 years of age). The factors taken into account were: angle of the shoulders, position of the neckline, and thickness of the shoulder pads. The results obtained are as follows.(1)People wearing clothing with sloping shoulders received 3.55kPa of pressure on the sides of their cervixes, and people wearing garments with square shoulders received 1.97kPa of pressure.(2)Pressure around the cervix decreased when the position of the neckline was moved 2cm toward the outside of the shoulders.(p<0.01)(3)When shoulder pads with a thickness of 1cm were used, the pressure from the clothing was distributed to the cervix and the shoulder.(p<0.05

ジャケットの動作適応性評価 : 官能検査、動作時間、筋電図からの検討

Focusing on the stretch factors of the materials, the motion adaptability of jackets was evaluated to design comfortable clothing. A total of ten subjects, five healthy younger females and five elder females who resided alone in senior citizen houses, participated in the study. For movement to wear and to remove a jacket and 7 types of movement of the upper limbs were measured. In the sensory test was evaluated using a five-rank system. In the EMG, the deltoid muscles were measured by the surface electrode method. The movements were recorded with the digital video. The result of the sensory test for the material of the jacket was significant at 1% or 5% level in both the younger and elderly groups. In this test for evaluating the ease with which the jackets were worn and removed, those with higher stretch factors were highly ranked. There was a difference of time to wear and to remove the jacket by the material. These jackets were compared by using the integral values obtained for muscle activities pertaining to each movement of the upper limbs. The result revealed the integral values changed in two patterns depending on the stretch of the material

首都圏女子の衣服・化粧に対する意識 : 大学生と高齢者の比較

For promoting a universal design in clothes and related products, it is important to know the consciousness that women of a wide range of age have on clothes. With this in mind the researchers made a questionnaire concerning women\u27s clothes, make-up and hair style and grouped by age to compare the answers. The respondents were 228 women aged 18-93 living in the Tokyo metropolitan area. The main questions in the questionnaire were about the women\u27s consciousness on clothes or clothing, make-up and hair style, physical features/build, and the purchasing of clothes. As for the answers to 45 items, concerning clothes, make-up, purchasing and physical features/build, respondents selected their answers from a choice of five, and a factor analysis was done. For the answers to 19 items on the motivation to purchase clothes and cosmetics cross-tabulation analysis was made by three different age-groups; university student group (aged 18-22), middle-aged group (30s through 50s), and the elderly (more than 65 years). The results are as follows. 1 When purchasing clothes: 43% of the students regarded the product\u27s design as important while 40% regarded the attractiveness of the item as important. Amongst the elderly 41% regarded the comfortableness to wear as important while 24% regarded the attractiveness of the item as important. 2 Concerning the source of information about fashion: 55% of the students got it from magazines, while 45% of the elderly got it mainly from TV. 3 On make-up: 38% of the students and 25% of the elderly answered that they always make up while 7% of the students and 26% of the elderly answered that they do not always make up or never do. The elderly answered that they make up because they believe it is good manners or that they should keep themselves neat. 4 Factor analysis was done to clarify the consciousness structure on clothes and make-up. Factors concerning \u27attention to fashion & effect of change on appearance\u27, \u27physical features/build\u27, \u27make-up\u27 and \u27hair style\u27 were elicited

子守帯の快適性評価 : 官能評価と接触圧からの検討

In this study, to design comfortable baby carriers, we determined the burden on the wearer. Sensory evaluation and contact pressure were used to evaluate five types of baby carriers. The test subjects were three healthy adult women who carried a dummy approximate to a six-month-old baby. The subjects evaluated the fit of the baby carrier immediately after putting it on, and then after an activity. They also evaluated the sense of burden on different parts of the body when wearing the carrier. Contact pressure was measured with airpack sensors while the subjects were walking or resting. The results show that the type of baby carrier affected the contact pressure and the fit in the vertical holding position. A correlation, r, of 0.554 was obtained between the fit and the largest contact pressure immediately after the baby carrier was worn. Further, the correlation between the largest contact pressure during the entire activity period and the fit after the activity increased to r=0.669. While wearing the carrier, the fit at the focus area of contact pressure worsened after the activity. These findings show that, when designing baby carriers, stabilizing and distributing contact pressure points will effectively improve the fit. The findings also indicate the usefulness of the largest contact pressure as a means of objectively evaluating baby carriers

東京とハノイの衣生活 : 女子学生の着装意識と衣服管理

This paper investigates why and how female college students at Showa Women\u27s University and at Vietnam National University wear and care for their clothes. One-hundred-eighty students at Showa Women\u27s University and forty-three female students in Vietnam National University responded to a questionnaire about their clothes. 1. With regard to motivation, the students in both countries are interested in high fashion. However Hanoi students seem to base what they wear on individual notions of what is fashionable, Tokyo students tend to choose their clothes depending on other\u27s preferences. In addition, students in Tokyo are more concerned with appearing slender than students in Hanoi. 2. In Hanoi, fewer students have skirts. There are historical reasons for this. 3. In both countries students purchase ready-made clothes. In Hanoi 80 percent of the students also wore custom-made clothes. 4. More students in Hanoi are bothered by their clothes sticking to their skin due to the high humidity than are students in Tokyo. This contrast is caused by the different climates of the two countries and by the clothing materials prevalent in each country. 5. The rate of washing by hand versus washing with a machine is clearly different between Tokyo and Hanoi. What students wear, and how they care for their clothes in Tokyo or in Hanoi respectively depends on factors, such as climate condition, traditional clothes, culture, economic situation and social background