Towards a scientific interpretation of the terroir concept: plasticity of the grape berry metabolome

BACKGROUND: The definition of the terroir concept is one of the most debated issues in oenology and viticulture. The dynamic interaction among diverse factors including the environment, the grapevine plant and the imposed viticultural techniques means that the wine produced in a given terroir is unique. However, there is an increasing interest to define and quantify the contribution of individual factors to a specific terroir objectively. Here, we characterized the metabolome and transcriptome of berries from a single clone of the Corvina variety cultivated in seven different vineyards, located in three macrozones, over a 3-year trial period. RESULTS: To overcome the anticipated strong vintage effect, we developed statistical tools that allowed us to identify distinct terroir signatures in the metabolic composition of berries from each macrozone, and from different vineyards within each macrozone. We also identified non-volatile and volatile components of the metabolome which are more plastic and therefore respond differently to terroir diversity. We observed some relationships between the plasticity of the metabolome and transcriptome, allowing a multifaceted scientific interpretation of the terroir concept. CONCLUSIONS: Our experiments with a single Corvina clone in different vineyards have revealed the existence of a clear terroir-specific effect on the transcriptome and metabolome which persists over several vintages and allows each vineyard to be characterized by the unique profile of specific metabolites.Andrea Anesi, Matteo Stocchero, Silvia Dal Santo, Mauro Commisso, Sara Zenoni, Stefania Ceoldo, Giovanni Battista Tornielli, Tracey E. Siebert, Markus Herderich, Mario Pezzotti and Flavia Guzz

Identification and quantification of a marker compound for 'pepper' aroma and flavor in Shiraz grape berries by combination of chemometrics and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry

'Black pepper' aroma and flavor is important to some Australian Shiraz red wine styles but the aroma compounds involved have yet to be identified, and no objective analytical method to assess 'pepper' grape aromas is available to date. Samples of potentially 'spicy'/'peppery' grapes were obtained from vineyards in South Australia and Victoria over two vintages. The important sensory attributes of the grapes, including the aroma descriptor 'pepper', were rated by a sensory panel. The sensory study revealed a strong correlation between the intensity of 'pepper' aroma and the intensity of 'pepper' flavor perceived on the palate. The grape homogenates were analyzed by static headspace GC-MS using a cool inlet system. Vectors obtained by analysis of over 13 000 individual mass spectra per grape sample were then subjected to multivariate analyses. Both principal component analysis and partial least-squares regression were used to develop multivariate models based on mass spectra and aroma descriptors to explain the intensity of the rating of the 'pepper' character. Corresponding differences in mass spectra and aroma were observed among vineyards and from the same vineyards in different years. Additional optimization of the methodology enabled selection of a single region of the GC-MS chromatogram that allowed prediction of 'pepper' aroma intensity with a correlation coefficient >0.98 and led to the identification of α-ylangene, a tricyclic sesquiterpene. To assess the potential of α-ylangene as a marker for this sensory characteristic, a method for α-ylangene analysis of grapes and wine using HS-SPME-GC-MS was developed. Although not a significant aroma compound by itself, α-ylangene was a satisfactory marker for the 'pepper' aroma in grapes and wine, and its concentration showed similar discrimination between 'peppery' vineyards and vintages as that obtained using the multivariate models. Despite its presence in grapes, we could not detect α-ylangene in wine

Relationship between red wine grades and phenolics. 1. Tannin and total phenolics concentrations

Measuring chemical composition is a common approach to support decisions about allocating foods and beverages to grades related to market value. Red wine is a particularly complex beverage, and multiple compositional attributes are needed to account for its sensory properties, including measurement of key phenolic components such as anthocyanins, total phenolics, and tannin, which are related to color and astringency. Color has been shown to relate positively to red wine grade; however, little research has been presented that explores the relationship between astringency-related components such as total phenolic or tannin concentration and wine grade. The aim of this research has been to investigate the relationship between the wine grade allocations of commercial wineries and total phenolic and tannin concentrations, respectively, in Australian Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Total phenolic and tannin concentrations were determined using the methyl cellulose precipitable (MCP) tannin assay and then compared to wine grade allocations made by winemaker panels during the companies' postvintage allocation process. Data were collected from wines produced by one Australian wine company over the 2005, 2006, and 2007 vintages and by a further two companies in 2007 (total wines = 1643). Statistical analysis revealed a positive trend toward higher wine grade allocation and wines that had higher concentrations of both total phenolics and tannin, respectively. This research demonstrates that for these companies, in general, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz wines allocated to higher market value grades have higher total phenolics and higher tannin concentrations and suggests that these compositional parameters should be considered in the development of future multiparameter decision support systems for relevant commercial red wine grading processes. In addition, both tannin and total phenolics would ideally be included because although, in general, a positive relationship exists between the two parameters, this relationship does not hold for all wine styles

J. agric. food chem.

A 'stone fruit' aroma is important in many white wine varieties and styles, but little is known about the chemical basis of this wine aroma attribute. A set of Viognier and Chardonnay wines that featured 'stone fruit' aroma attributes were selected by a panel of wine experts. The selected wines were characterized by sensory descriptive analysis and detailed volatile chemical composition analyses. This comprehensive data also allowed Viognier wine to be profiled for the first time. By partial least-squares regression, several esters and fatty acids and benzaldehyde were indicated as contributing to the 'peach' attribute; however, a reconstitution sensory study was unsuccessful in mimicking this attribute. A mixture of γ-lactones, monoterpenes, and aldehydes were positively correlated to the 'apricot' aroma, which were generally higher in the Viognier wines. Reconstitution studies confirmed that the monoterpenes linalool, geraniol, and nerol were the most important compounds for the mixture being perceived as having an 'apricot' aroma

Modelling Smoke Flavour in Wine from Chemical Composition of Smoke-Exposed Grapes and Wine

Wine grapes exposed to smoke and wine made from grapes exposed to smoke can robustly be identified through their elevated concentrations of volatile phenols and phenolic glycosides serving as smoke markers, compared to concentrations typically found in non-smoke-exposed samples. Smoke-affected wines with high concentrations of volatile phenols and glycosides can have smoky flavours, but the relationship between concentrations of specific smoke markers in grapes and the intensity of smoky sensory attributes in the resulting wine has not been established. This study sought to determine whether volatile phenols and glycoside concentration in grapes and wine are suited to predict smoke flavour, to identify the key drivers of smoke flavour in both matrices. The study aimed to determine what concentrations of volatiles and glycosides in grapes impart an unacceptable smoke flavour in the resulting wine, to provide a guide for producers assessing suitability of smoke-exposed grapes for wine production. During vintage 2020, a total of 65 grape samples were collected from vineyards exposed to bushfire smoke, as well as unaffected vineyards. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Shiraz grapes were harvested from vineyards in New South Wales, South Australia, and Victoria. Unoaked wines (50 kg scale) were produced under controlled conditions. The wines had a wide range of smoke flavour intensities rated by a trained sensory panel. Statistical models based on guaiacol, o-cresol, m-cresol, p-cresol, and some glycosides gave good predictions of smoke flavour intensity, with a slightly different optimal model for each cultivar. Subsequently, critical concentrations for quality defects were estimated to provide a guide for producers. A subset of smoke exposure markers in wine grapes affected by smoke from bushfires can be used to predict the degree of smoke flavour in wine. This information provides a first guide for assessing the risk of producing smoke tainted wine from smoke-exposed grapes

Assessing the Impact of Smoke Exposure in Grapes: Development and Validation of a HPLC-MS/MS Method for the Quantitative Analysis of Smoke-Derived Phenolic Glycosides in Grapes and Wine

Bushfires occur frequently in the vicinity of grape growing regions, resulting in smoke drifting over the vineyards. Wine made from smoked grapes is often downgraded or unfit for sale due to negative sensory characters. To manage or avoid the risk of producing smoke-affected wine, a diagnostic assay was developed for assessing the extent of smoke exposure in grapes and the resulting wines. The method relies on the quantitation of the glycosidic grape metabolites that are formed from major volatile phenols present in smoke. Using HPLC-MS/MS with APCI, a quantitation method for phenolic glycosides as smoke marker compounds was developed and validated. The method was confirmed to be of sufficient sensitivity and reliability to use as a diagnostic assay. On the basis of phenolic glycoside concentrations, grapes or wine can be assessed as smoke exposed or not, and the relative intensity of smoke exposure can be determined

Volatile Compounds Related to ‘Stone Fruit’ Aroma Attributes in Viognier and Chardonnay Wines

A ‘stone fruit’ aroma is important in many white wine varieties and styles, but little is known about the chemical basis of this wine aroma attribute. A set of Viognier and Chardonnay wines that featured ‘stone fruit’ aroma attributes were selected by a panel of wine experts. The selected wines were characterized by sensory descriptive analysis and detailed volatile chemical composition analyses. This comprehensive data also allowed Viognier wine to be profiled for the first time. By partial least-squares regression, several esters and fatty acids and benzaldehyde were indicated as contributing to the ‘peach’ attribute; however, a reconstitution sensory study was unsuccessful in mimicking this attribute. A mixture of γ-lactones, monoterpenes, and aldehydes were positively correlated to the ‘apricot’ aroma, which were generally higher in the Viognier wines. Reconstitution studies confirmed that the monoterpenes linalool, geraniol, and nerol were the most important compounds for the mixture being perceived as having an ‘apricot’ aroma

Determination of the Importance of In-Mouth Release of Volatile Phenol Glycoconjugates to the Flavor of Smoke-Tainted Wines

The volatile phenols guaiacol, 4-methylguaiacol, syringol, 4-methylsyringol, <i>o</i>-, <i>m</i>-, and <i>p-</i>cresol, as well as their glycoconjugates, have previously been shown to be present in elevated concentrations in smoke-tainted wine. Sensory descriptive analysis experiments, with addition of free volatile phenols in combination with their glycosidically bound forms, were used to mimic smoke taint in red wines. The addition of volatile phenols together with glycoconjugates gave the strongest off-flavor. The hydrolysis of glycosidically bound flavor compounds in-mouth was further investigated by in vitro and in vivo experiments. The results indicate that enzymes present in human saliva are able to release the volatile aglycones from their glycoconjugates even under low pH and elevated ethanol conditions, confirming that in-mouth breakdown of monosaccharide and disaccharide glycosides is an important mechanism for smoke flavor from smoke affected wines, and that this mechanism may play an important general role in the flavor and aftertaste of wine

Contribution of Several Volatile Phenols and Their Glycoconjugates to Smoke-Related Sensory Properties of Red Wine

Guaiacol and 4-methylguaiacol are well-known as contributors to the flavor of wines made from smoke-affected grapes, but there are other volatile phenols commonly found in smoke from forest fires that are also potentially important. The relationships between the concentration of a range of volatile phenols and their glycoconjugates with the sensory characteristics of wines and model wines were investigated. Modeling of the attribute ratings from a sensory descriptive analysis of smoke-affected wines with their chemical composition indicated the concentrations of guaiacol, <i>o</i>-cresol, <i>m</i>-cresol, and <i>p</i>-cresol were related to smoky attributes. The best-estimate odor thresholds of these compounds were determined in red wine, together with the flavor threshold of guaiacol. Guaiacol β-d-glucoside and <i>m</i>-cresol β-d-glucoside in model wine were found to give rise to a <i>smoky/ashy</i> flavor in-mouth, and the respective free volatiles were released. The study indicated that a combination of volatile phenols and their glycosides produces an undesirable smoke flavor in affected wines. The observation of flavor generation from nonvolatile glycoconjugates in-mouth has potentially important implications