A New Protocol to Evaluate Waterproof Effect of LipGloss

A new method to evaluate lip gloss and lipstick waterproof level according to the COLIPA Guidelines for Evaluating Sunscreen Product Water Resistance in 2006 is proposed, moreover the changes in color (L* value) by Skin Colorimeter® CL 400 Courage & Kazama was measured. Tests were carried out on 20 volunteers validating the efficiency of the used method by comparing non-waterproof lip gloss/lipstick and waterproof product results. The results indicated that the lip gloss/lipstick were waterproofs when their mean % WPR was lower than 50% and they were removed after two successive immersions in water for 20 minutes at 29°±2°C. Methods used to evaluate lip gloss and lipstick waterproof level has proved effective for assessing the desired goals

Dosage of Bioactive Molecules in the Nutricosmeceutical Helix aspersa Muller Mucus and Formulation of New Cosmetic Cream with Moisturizing Effect

The present study was carried out to provide the allantoin and glycolic acid contents in the Helix aspersa Muller mucus of common Campania land (Italy) by using chromatographic method. The study continued with the formulation of a snail mucus cosmetic cream, whose ability to hydrate the skin was evaluated comparing the skin hydration and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) effects of a stable cosmetic preparation. The skin TEWL and skin hydration effects were measured by TEWAMETER and corneometer probe, respectively, at the beginning, after 1 hour, and 24 hours

Aloe barbadensis: A Plant of Nutricosmetic Interest

Aloe barbadensis Miller (Aloe Vera Linne) products have long been employed in health foods and for medical purposes. It has anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant properties, which indicates excellent potential in antiaging cosmetic and skin protection products. The objective of this study is to evaluate the antiaging efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing A. barbadensis extract on young and mature skin using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Twenty healthy adult volunteers participated in the study, aged between 20 and 65. The cream formulation, with 10% (w/w) of A. barbadensis extract, and placebo, were applied to the face of the volunteers. The effects were evaluated in terms of skin hydration and barrier effect by the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), derma firmness, and elasticity. The formulation containing A. barbadensis extract significantly improves water contained in the stratum corneum, firmness, elasticity of the skin, and decreased TEWL

Comparison between Mid-Infrared (ATR-FTIR) Spectroscopy and Official Analysis Methods for Determination of the Concentrations of Alcohol, SO2, and Total Acids in Wine

The determination of alcohol, SO2, and total acids in wine through conventional laboratory techniques have some limitations related to the amount of the samples, analytical preparation of laboratory staff, and time to carry out the analysis. In recent years, spectroscopic and chromato- graphic methods have been proposed to determinate simultaneously multiple analytical parame- ters. The new methods claim the speed of analysis and easy execution. However, they need a vali- dation process that guarantees the reliability of the results to be used in official determinations. This study aimed to evaluate the usefulness of FT-infrared reflectance (FT-IR) to quantify total acid, al- cohol, and SO2 concentration in the wines. For this purpose, 156 DOC Italian wines were tested with IR technology, and results were compared to those obtained by official analysis methods. The com- parison was performed using two non-parametric statistical methods: the Bland & Altman test and Passing & Bablok regression. Our results showed that the spectrophotometric methods make errors due to interfering contaminants in the sample that can be corrected by blank determination. There- fore, the spectrophotometric methods that use the infrared region of the electromagnetic spectrum can be used by the wine industry and regulators for the wine routine as an alternative to official methodologies

Aloe barbadensis: A Plant of Nutricosmetic Interest

Aloe barbadensis Miller (Aloe Vera Linne) products have long been employed in health foods and for medical purposes. It has anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant properties, which indicates excellent potential in antiaging cosmetic and skin protection products. The objective of this study is to evaluate the antiaging efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing A. barbadensis extract on young and mature skin using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Twenty healthy adult volunteers participated in the study, aged between 20 and 65. The cream formulation, with 10% (w/w) of A. barbadensis extract, and placebo, were applied to the face of the volunteers. The effects were evaluated in terms of skin hydration and barrier effect by the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), derma firmness, and elasticity. The formulation containing A. barbadensis extract significantly improves water contained in the stratum corneum, firmness, elasticity of the skin, and decreased TEWL

Tracking Down of a Selected Panel of Parabens: A Validated Method to Evaluate Their Occurrence in Skin Layers

A method was set up and validated to identify and quantify seven parabens in each of the three skin layers, i.e., Stratum Corneum, Epidermis, and Dermis, because, even if only some analogues are legally allowed in Europe, forbidden parabens are also detected in many personal care products and therefore can be absorbed by the skin. A solid/liquid extraction followed by a gradient elution chromatographic separation method was performed and validated according to European guidelines. Our validated method afforded the detection of all seven parabens with limit of detection values ranging from 0.026 to 0.090 μg mL−1 and recoveries ranging from 61.80 to 105.73 μg mL−1 at high and low concentration values (50.0–5.0 μg mL−1), respectively. The proposed method can help assess paraben’s skin bioaccumulation since people are repeatedly exposed to consumer goods containing parabens in their daily routine, posing a chronic risk to human health

Parabens Permeation through Biological Membranes: A Comparative Study Using Franz Cell Diffusion System and Biomimetic Liquid Chromatography

Parabens (PBs) are used as preservatives to extend the shelf life of various foodstuffs, and pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In this work, the membrane barrier passage potential of a subset of seven parabens, i.e., methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, and benzyl paraben, along with their parent compound, p-hydroxy benzoic acid, were studied. Thus, the Franz cell diffusion (FDC) method, biomimetic liquid chromatography (BLC), and in silico prediction were performed to evaluate the soundness of both describing their permeation through the skin. While BLC allowed the achievement of a full scale of affinity for membrane phospholipids of the PBs under research, the permeation of parabens through Franz diffusion cells having a carbon chain > ethyl could not be measured in a fully aqueous medium, i.e., permeation enhancer-free conditions. Our results support that BLC and in silico prediction alone can occasionally be misleading in the permeability potential assessment of these preservatives, emphasizing the need for a multi-technique and integrated experimental approach

Into the toxicity potential of an array of parabens by biomimetic liquid chromatography, cell viability assessments and in silico predictions

Five parabens (PBs) i.e., Methylparaben (MP), Ethylparaben (EP), Isopropylparaben (iPrP), Isobutylparaben (iBuP), Benzylparaben (BzP), and their parent compound i.e., para–hydroxy Benzoic Acid (pHBA), were studied both in vitro and in silico. Specifically, we determined their retention on several both protein- (Human Serum Albumin and α1-acidic glycoprotein) and lipid- (immobilized artificial membrane (IAM)) based biomimetic stationary phases to evaluate their penetration potential through the biomembranes and their possible distribution in the body. The IAM phases were based either on phosphatidylcholine (PC) analogues i.e., PC.MG and PC.DD2 or on sphingomyelin (SPH). We also assessed their viability effect on breast cancer cells (MCF-7) via MTT assay subjecting the cells to five different PB concentrations i.e., 100 μM, 10 μM, 1 μM, 0.1 μM and 0.01 μM. Finally, their pharmacokinetics, and toxicity were assessed by the ADMET Predictor™ software.Isopropylparaben was found to be more active than 17β estradiol (E2) employed as positive control, on the screened cell line inducing cell proliferation up to 150 % more of untreated cells. Other analogues showed only a slight/moderate cell proliferation activity, with parabens having longer/branched side chain showing, on average, a higher proliferation rate. Significant linear direct relationships (for PC.DD2 r2 = 0.89, q2 = 0.86, for SPH r2 = 0.89, q2 = 0.85, for both P value < 0.05) were observed between the difference in proliferative effect between the readout and the control at 0.01 μM concentration and the retention on the IAM phases measured at pH 5.0 for all compounds but pHBA, which is the only analyte of the dataset supporting a carboxylic acid moiety. IAM affinity data measured at pH 7.0 were found to be related to the effective human jejunal permeability as predicted by the software ADMET® Predictor, which is relevant when PBs are added to pharmaceutical and food commodities

An Extract from Ficus carica Cell Cultures Works as an Anti-Stress Ingredient for the Skin

Psychological stress activates catecholamine production, determines oxidation processes, and alters the lipid barrier functions in the skin. Scientific evidence associated with the detoxifying effect of fruits and vegetables, the growing awareness of the long-term issues related to the use of chemical-filled cosmetics, the aging of the population, and the increase in living standards are the factors responsible for the growth of food-derived ingredients in the cosmetics market. A Ficus carica cell suspension culture extract (FcHEx) was tested in vitro (on keratinocytes cells) and in vivo to evaluate its ability to manage the stress-hormone-induced damage in skin. The FcHEx reduced the epinephrine (−43% and −24% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), interleukin 6 (−38% and −36% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), lipid peroxide (−25%), and protein carbonylation (−50%) productions; FcHEx also induced ceramide synthesis (+150%) and ameliorated the lipid barrier performance. The in vivo experiments confirmed the in vitro test results. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL; −12.2%), sebum flow (−46.6% after two weeks and −73.8% after four weeks; on the forehead −56.4% after two weeks and −80.1% after four weeks), and skin lightness (+1.9% after two weeks and +2.7% after four weeks) defined the extract’s effects on the skin barrier. The extract of the Ficus carica cell suspension cultures reduced the transepidermal water loss, the sebum production, the desquamation, and facial skin turning to a pale color from acute stress, suggesting its role as an ingredient to fight the signs of psychological stress in the skin

Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physicochemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2 , FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 300 , and −17.8% after 600 )