Barrier island breach evolution : alongshore transport and bay-ocean pressure gradient interactions

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2016. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 121 (2016): 8720–8730, doi:10.1002/2016JC012029.Physical processes controlling repeated openings and closures of a barrier island breach between a bay and the open ocean are studied using aerial photographs and atmospheric and hydrodynamic observations. The breach site is located on Pea Island along the Outer Banks, separating Pamlico Sound from the Atlantic Ocean. Wind direction was a major control on the pressure gradients between the bay and the ocean to drive flows that initiate or maintain the breach opening. Alongshore sediment flux was found to be a major contributor to breach closure. During the analysis period from 2011 to 2016, three hurricanes had major impacts on the breach. First, Hurricane Irene opened the breach with wind-driven flow from bay to ocean in August 2011. Hurricane Sandy in October 2012 quadrupled the channel width from pressure gradient flows due to water levels that were first higher on the ocean side and then higher on the bay side. The breach closed sometime in Spring 2013, most likely due to an event associated with strong alongshore sediment flux but minimal ocean-bay pressure gradients. Then, in July 2014, Hurricane Arthur briefly opened the breach again from the bay side, in a similar fashion to Irene. In summary, opening and closure of breaches are shown to follow a dynamic and episodic balance between along-channel pressure gradient driven flows and alongshore sediment fluxes.2017-06-1

Observations and 3D hydrodynamics-based modeling of decadal-scale shoreline change along the Outer Banks, North Carolina

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Coastal Engineering 120 (2017): 78-92, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.11.014.Long-term decadal-scale shoreline change is an important parameter for quantifying the stability of coastal systems. The decadal-scale coastal change is controlled by processes that occur on short time scales (such as storms) and long-term processes (such as prevailing waves). The ability to predict decadal-scale shoreline change is not well established and the fundamental physical processes controlling this change are not well understood. Here we investigate the processes that create large-scale long-term shoreline change along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, an uninterrupted 60 km stretch of coastline, using both observations and a numerical modeling approach. Shoreline positions for a 24-yr period were derived from aerial photographs of the Outer Banks. Analysis of the shoreline position data showed that, although variable, the shoreline eroded an average of 1.5 m/yr throughout this period. The modeling approach uses a three-dimensional hydrodynamics-based numerical model coupled to a spectral wave model and simulates the full 24-yr time period on a spatial grid running on a short (second scale) time-step to compute the sediment transport patterns. The observations and the model results show similar magnitudes (O(105 m3/yr)) and patterns of alongshore sediment fluxes. Both the observed and the modeled alongshore sediment transport rates have more rapid changes at the north of our section due to continuously curving coastline, and possible effects of alongshore variations in shelf bathymetry. The southern section with a relatively uniform orientation, on the other hand, has less rapid transport rate changes. Alongshore gradients of the modeled sediment fluxes are translated into shoreline change rates that have agreement in some locations but vary in others. Differences between observations and model results are potentially influenced by geologic framework processes not included in the model. Both the observations and the model results show higher rates of erosion (∼−1 m/yr) averaged over the northern half of the section as compared to the southern half where the observed and modeled averaged net shoreline changes are smaller (<0.1 m/yr). The model indicates accretion in some shallow embayments, whereas observations indicate erosion in these locations. Further analysis identifies that the magnitude of net alongshore sediment transport is strongly dominated by events associated with high wave energy. However, both big- and small- wave events cause shoreline change of the same order of magnitude because it is the gradients in transport, not the magnitude, that are controlling shoreline change. Results also indicate that alongshore momentum is not a simple balance between wave breaking and bottom stress, but also includes processes of horizontal vortex force, horizontal advection and pressure gradient that contribute to long-term alongshore sediment transport. As a comparison to a more simple approach, an empirical formulation for alongshore sediment transport is used. The empirical estimates capture the effect of the breaking term in the hydrodynamics-based model, however, other processes that are accounted for in the hydrodynamics-based model improve the agreement with the observed alongshore sediment transport.This study was also supported by the United States Geological Survey Coastal Change Processes Project and Department of the Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery program

Alongshore momentum balance analysis on a cuspate foreland

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2013. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 118 (2013): 5280–5295, doi:10.1002/jgrc.20358.Nearshore measurements of waves and currents off Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, U.S.A, are used to investigate depth-averaged subtidal circulation and alongshore momentum balances in the surf and inner shelf region around a cuspate foreland. Data were collected on both sides of the cape representing shorefaces with contrasting shoreline orientation (north-south vs. northwest-southeast) subjected to the same wind forcing. In the nearshore, the subtidal flow is aligned with the local coastline orientation while at the cape point the flow is along the existing submerged shoal, suggesting that cape associated shoals may act as an extension of the coastline. Alongshore momentum balance analysis incorporating wave-current interaction by including vortex and Stokes-Coriolis forces reveals that in deep waters surface and bottom stress are almost in balance. In shallower waters, the balance is complex as nonlinear advection and vortex force become important. Furthermore, linearized momentum balance analysis suggests that the vortex force can be of the same order as wind and wave forcing. Farther southwest of Cape Hatteras point, wind and wave forcing alone fail to fully explain subtidal flow variability and it is shown that alongshore pressure gradient as a response to the wind forcing can close the momentum balance. Adjacent tide gauge data suggest that the magnitude of pressure gradient depends on the relative orientation of local coastline to the wind vector, and in a depth-averaged sense the pressure gradient generation due to change in coastline orientation even at km length scale is analogous to the effect of alongshore variable winds on a straight coastline.The experimental work was funded by the Carolinas Coastal Processes Project, a cooperative study supported by the US Geological Survey. Additional support during data analysis and preparation of this manuscript was provided by the National Science Foundation (award: OCE-1132130).2014-04-1

Inner-shelf ocean dynamics and seafloor morphologic changes during Hurricane Sandy

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Continental Shelf Research 138 (2017): 1-18, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2017.02.003.Hurricane Sandy was one of the most destructive hurricanes in US history, making landfall on the New Jersey coast on October 30, 2012. Storm impacts included several barrier island breaches, massive coastal erosion, and flooding. While changes to the subaerial landscape are relatively easily observed, storm-induced changes to the adjacent shoreface and inner continental shelf are more difficult to evaluate. These regions provide a framework for the coastal zone, are important for navigation, aggregate resources, marine ecosystems, and coastal evolution. Here we provide unprecedented perspective regarding regional inner continental shelf sediment dynamics based on both observations and numerical modeling over time scales associated with these types of large storm events. Oceanographic conditions and seafloor morphologic changes are evaluated using both a coupled atmospheric-ocean-wave-sediment numerical modeling system that covered spatial scales ranging from the entire US east coast (1000 s of km) to local domains (10 s of km). Additionally, the modeled response for the region offshore of Fire Island, NY was compared to observational analysis from a series of geologic surveys from that location. The geologic investigations conducted in 2011 and 2014 revealed lateral movement of sedimentary structures of distances up to 450 m and in water depths up to 30 m, and vertical changes in sediment thickness greater than 1 m in some locations. The modeling investigations utilize a system with grid refinement designed to simulate oceanographic conditions with progressively increasing resolutions for the entire US East Coast (5-km grid), the New York Bight (700-m grid), and offshore of Fire Island, NY (100-m grid), allowing larger scale dynamics to drive smaller scale coastal changes. Model results in the New York Bight identify maximum storm surge of up to 3 m, surface currents on the order of 2 ms−1 along the New Jersey coast, waves up to 8 m in height, and bottom stresses exceeding 10 Pa. Flow down the Hudson Shelf Valley is shown to result in convergent sediment transport and deposition along its axis. Modeled sediment redistribution along Fire Island showed erosion across the crests of inner shelf sand ridges and sedimentation in adjacent troughs, consistent with the geologic observations.This research was funded by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), Coastal and Marine Geology Program, and conducted by the Coastal Change Processes Project. This research was supported in part by the Department of the Interior Hurricane Sandy Recovery program

Lunar highland rock types : their implications for impact-induced fractionation

Lunar rocks may be classified into three major groups: (1) coarse-grained igneous rocks, (2) fine-grained igneous rocks, and (3) breccias. Group 1 is interpreted as primitive lunar crustal rocks that display various degrees of crushing and/or annealing. Group 2 is interpreted as volcanic rocks. Group 3 is interpreted as resulting from impacts on the lunar surface and is subdivided on the basis of matrix textures into fragmental breccias, crystalline breccias that have been annealed, and crystalline breccias with igneous matrices. A synthesis of the data concerning lunar highlands polymict breccias compels the prediction that the breccias should have homogeneous matrices from rock to rock within regions of the highlands of limited size where impact mixing has been efficient and extensive. But the returned breccias, even from one landing site, display a wide range in composition. This incompatibility between prediction and observation is a paradox that may be resolved by a process that acts after impact mixing to cause a differentiation of the breccia compositions. Partial melting of the local average crustal composition (as modeled by the average soil composition for each site) and separation of melt and residue in ejecta and/or fall-back blankets are compatible with the reviewed data and may resolve the paradox.W. C. Phinney and J. L. Warner, NASA/ Johnson Space Center, Houston, Texas, C. H. Simonds, Lunar Science Institute, Houston, Texa

Lunar igneous rocks

Basic petrographic, chemical, and age data is presented for a representative suite of igneous rocks gathered during the six Apollo missions. Tables are given for 69 samples: 32 igneous rocks and 37 impactites (breccias). A description is given of 26 basalts, four plutonic rocks, and two pyroclastic samples. The textural-mineralogic name assigned each sample is included.by Patricia McGee, Jeffrey L. Warner, and Charles H. SimondsIntroduction--Description of the igneous rocks--Table of geochemistry--Master reference list

Augmentation Index Derived from Peripheral Arterial Tonometry Correlates with Cardiovascular Risk Factors

Background. Augmentation index (AIx) is traditionally obtained from pressure waveforms via arterial applanation tonometry. We sought to evaluate the association between AIx obtained from peripheral arterial tonometry (PAT) with cardiovascular risk factors (CRF) and coronary artery disease (CAD). Methods. 186 patients were enrolled in the study. The presence or absence of CRFs and CAD was assessed in each subject. AIx was calculated by an automated algorithm averaging pulse wave amplitude data obtained via PAT. Central blood pressures were assessed in a subset of patients undergoing clinically indicated cardiac catheterization. Results. An association was observed between AIx and age, heart rate, systolic blood pressure, mean arterial pressure, pulse pressure, body weight and body mass index. AIx was significantly lower in patients with <3 CRFs compared to those with >5 CRFs ( P = .02). CAD+ patients had significantly higher AIx compared to CAD− patients ( P = .008). Area under the ROC curve was 0.604 (P < .01). In patients undergoing cardiac catheterization, after adjusting for age, height and heart rate, AIx was a significant predictor of aortic systolic and pulse pressures (P < .05) Conclusion. AIx derived from PAT correlates with cardiac risk factors and CAD. It may be a useful measure of assessing overall risk for coronary artery disease

Persistent shoreline shape induced from offshore geologic framework : effects of shoreface connected ridges

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 122 (2017): 8721–8738, doi:10.1002/2017JC012808.Mechanisms relating offshore geologic framework to shoreline evolution are determined through geologic investigations, oceanographic deployments, and numerical modeling. Analysis of shoreline positions from the past 50 years along Fire Island, New York, a 50 km long barrier island, demonstrates a persistent undulating shape along the western half of the island. The shelf offshore of these persistent undulations is characterized with shoreface-connected sand ridges (SFCR) of a similar alongshore length scale, leading to a hypothesis that the ridges control the shoreline shape through the modification of flow. To evaluate this, a hydrodynamic model was configured to start with the US East Coast and scale down to resolve the Fire Island nearshore. The model was validated using observations along western Fire Island and buoy data, and used to compute waves, currents and sediment fluxes. To isolate the influence of the SFCR on the generation of the persistent shoreline shape, simulations were performed with a linearized nearshore bathymetry to remove alongshore transport gradients associated with shoreline shape. The model accurately predicts the scale and variation of the alongshore transport that would generate the persistent shoreline undulations. In one location, however, the ridge crest connects to the nearshore and leads to an offshore-directed transport that produces a difference in the shoreline shape. This qualitatively supports the hypothesized effect of cross-shore fluxes on coastal evolution. Alongshore flows in the nearshore during a representative storm are driven by wave breaking, vortex force, advection and pressure gradient, all of which are affected by the SFCR.United States Geological Survey Coastal Change Processes Project; United States Geological Survey Mendenhall Research Fellowshi

Atomic Structure and Dynamics of Single Platinum Atom Interactions with Monolayer MoS

We have studied atomic level interactions between single Pt atoms and the surface of monolayer MoS₂ using aberration-corrected annular dark field scanning transmission electron microscopy at an accelerating voltage of 60 kV. Strong contrast from single Pt atoms on the atomically resolved monolayer MoS₂ lattice enables their exact position to be determined with respect to the MoS₂ lattice, revealing stable binding sites. In regions of MoS₂ free from surface contamination, the Pt atoms are localized in S vacancy sites and exhibit dynamic hopping to nearby vacancy sites driven by the energy supplied by the electron beam. However, in areas of MoS₂ contaminated with carbon surface layers, the Pt atoms appear at various positions with respect to the underlying MoS₂ lattice, including on top of Mo and in off-axis positions. These variations are due to the Pt bonding with the surrounding amorphous carbon layer, which disrupts the intrinsic Pt-MoS₂ interactions, leading to more varied positions. Density functional theory (DFT) calculations reveal that Pt atoms on the surface of MoS₂ have a small barrier for migration and are stabilized when bound to either a single or double sulfur vacancies. DFT calculations have been used to understand how the catalytic activity of the MoS₂ basal plane for hydrogen evolution reaction is influenced by Pt dopants by variation of the hydrogen adsorption free energy. This strong dependence of catalytic effect on interfacial configurations is shown to be common for a series of dopants, which may provide a means to create and optimize reaction centers

Quantifying Low Energy Proton Damage in Multijunction Solar Cells

An analysis of the effects of low energy proton irradiation on the electrical performance of triple junction (3J) InGaP2/GaAs/Ge solar cells is presented. The Monte Carlo ion transport code (SRIM) is used to simulate the damage profile induced in a 3J solar cell under the conditions of typical ground testing and that of the space environment. The results are used to present a quantitative analysis of the defect, and hence damage, distribution induced in the cell active region by the different radiation conditions. The modelling results show that, in the space environment, the solar cell will experience a uniform damage distribution through the active region of the cell. Through an application of the displacement damage dose analysis methodology, the implications of this result on mission performance predictions are investigated