Eco-friendly dyeing of wool and pashmina fabric using Quercus robur L. (fruit cups) dye and Salix alba L. (wood extract) mordant

Study was conducted to investigate the dyeing potential of Quercus robur L. (fruit cups) dye and Salix alba L. (wood extract) mordant on wool and pashmina fabrics. The experiment was conducted keeping in view the environmental safety by using unutilized plant materials and excluding the usage of chemical agents. The dyeing was carried out individually including and excluding mordant adopting different mordanting methods. The parameters like percent absorption, colour coordinates, colour strength (K/S), relative colour strength and colour fastness with regard to washing, light and rubbing were investigated. The results revealed higher percent absorption of mordanted samples than unmordanted samples. Colour coordinates (L*a*b*, Chroma, hue and ?E) of dyed wool and pashmina fabric exhibited satisfactory results. The colour strength (K/S) and relative colour strength of pashmina fabric recorded higher than wool fabric. The fastness properties to washing, light and rubbing showed satisfactory grades including and excluding natural mordant. However, the grades of mordanted samples were found better than unmordanted samples. The dye and mordant in isolation and in combination showed beautiful colours and shades on selected fabrics with satisfactory retention properties, hence can be utilized commercially for coloration of wool and pashmina fabrics

<i style="">Pashmina shawl</i> - A traditional way of making in Kashmir

329-333Since centuries, the handicraft industry is running successfully in beautiful valley of Kashmir. Among handicrafts, shawl industry has gained popularity all over the world for the way these shawls are being prepared. Shawl making in Kashmir is an age old practice over which the artisans have expertise themselves over generations. The shawls prepared from Pashmina fibre are liked by all irrespective of their age, sex and nation. From ages, Pashmina shawls are being prepared in the valley by traditional methods. The objective of the study was to ascertain the processing methodology adapted by local artisans in Kashmir Valley for shawl preparation. In this paper, the processing of Pashmina from fibre to the final product (shawl) right from harvesting up to finishing is presented in detail

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Not AvailableCashmere fibre is produced from the down hair of domesticated double-coat goat (Capra hircus). It is very difficult to spin it in machine due to its soft, short and slippery scales which create lapping due to the development of static charges during carding, sliver making and spinning processes. In this study, an attempt was made to produce machine spun cashmere yarn using nylon as a carrier fibre for manufactur-ing shawl type fabric. The nylon portion of the fabric was removed by hydrochloric acid treatment and 18% was found to be satisfactory. Finally, the fabric produced was compared with the conventionally hand spun yarn made cashmere shawl fabric. The results showed non-significant difference between the two fabrics in terms of softness and thermal conductivity. However, the machine spun yarn made fabric showed 60% lower extension and 50% higher abrasion losses. Scanning electron microscopy showed that the machine spun yarn made fabric had minute deposits of dissolved nylon at a few places. The re-sults indicated that the process of preparing cashmere fabric using hand spun yarn could be replaced with machine spun yarn using nylon dissolution process without compromising the softness and thermal insulation properties; however, higher abrasion loss is a limiting factor.Not Availabl

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Not AvailablePashmina, a finest natural animal fiber is utilized for preparation of world famous Kashmiri pashmina shawls by traditional practices. Hand spinning is one of the important processing step, wherein fibers are converted into a fine yarn on a traditional spinning wheel (yander). The task is usually carried out by women folk. It is a labo-rious process resulting in a lot of physical stress affecting the efficiency of artisans. An innovative charkha has been fabricated to reduce the physical stress and its effect on the spinning efficiency and remuneration of artisans over traditional one was evaluated. The study revealed that innovative charkha was efficient in terms of time consumed for spinning by 73.50% over traditional one besides decreasing physical drudgery. In terms of in-come, there was an increase of 146% over traditional one for same period of time without deteriorating the quality of yarn.Not Availabl

Comparative study on quality of shawls made from hand-and machine-spun pashmina yarns

224-230An attempt has been made to compare the quality of pashmina shawls developed on traditional and woollen handlooms using both hand-spun and machine-spun yarns for various physico-mechanical parameters. The experimental plan includes preparation of both hand-spun and machine-spun yarns followed by the preparation of pashmina shawls from these yarns on both traditional and woollen handlooms, and their quality evaluation. Number of fibres/cross-section, count, elongation percentage, tenacity and coefficient of friction show significant difference between hand-spun and machine-spun yarns. The quality evaluation tests of fabrics reveal that weight/m2, thickness, picks/inch, extension percentage, bending rigidity, frictional properties and total hand value show significant difference, whereas ends/inch, breaking load, tenacity, bending length, abrasion loss and shrinkage loss do not show significant difference. The study reveals that the overall quality of pashmina shawls developed on traditional loom using hand-spun yarn is better than the other types of shawls developed and studied

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Not AvailableAn attempt has been made to compare the quality of pashmina shawls developed on traditional and woolen handlooms using both hand-spun and machine-spun yarns for various physico-mechanical parameters. The experimental plan includes preparation of both hand-spun and machine-spun yarns followed by the preparation of pashmina shawls from these yarns on both traditional and woolen handlooms, and their quality evaluation. Number of fibres/ cross-section, count, elongation percentage, tenacity and coefficient of friction show significant difference between hand-spun and machine-spun yarns. The quality evaluation tests of fabrics reveal that weight/ m2, thickness, picks/ inch, breaking load, tenacity, bending length, abrasion loss and shrinkage loss do not show significant difference. The study reveals that the overall quality of pashmina shawls developed on traditional loom using hand-spun yarn is better than then the other types of shawls developed and studied.Not Availabl

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Not AvailableA study was conducted to compare the quality of Pashmina fibre dehaired manually and mechanically. Pashmina was procured from All Changthangi Pashmina Growers Association, Leh, Ladakh. Samples were drawn randomly from different bales. The total Pashmina sample was divided into tow parts. Half of the Pashmina was dehaired manually while remaining half was dehaired on machine. Both types of pashmina fibres were evaluated for fineness, length, bundle strength, coefficient of friction and scanning electronic imaging (SEM). Fibre diameter and bundle strength showed non-significant difference whereas fibre length and co-efficient of friction showed significant difference (P<0.05) between the dehairing methods. SEM images clearly showed that machine dehairing damages the surface of Pashmina fibre. From the study, it was concluded that the machine dehairing results in reduction of fibre strength by damaging the surface structure thus it may reduce the life of the final product.Not Availabl

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Not AvailableAfter harvesting the stigma from saffron flower, the petal part of the flower, which is violet in colour, is thrown as a waste. Pashmina shawl is a very delicate material and requires mild chemical treatments for dyeing. In the present study, an attempt has been made to utilize the petal part of the saffron flower to extract dye for application on the Pashmina shawl. The saffron flower waste was dried and ground into powder form. The natural dye was extracted by aqueous method at boiling conditions. The extracts were then applied on Pashmina wool at two different pH namely pH 4-5 and pH 7-8 with and without the use of mordant. The results showed that saffron flower waste extracts was able to dye the Pashmina shawl satisfactorily with very good washing and light fastness properties. It is also proposed to give an alkaline detergent treatment after dyeing to avoid tone variation of dyed fabric. Saffron flower extract dyed fabric at acidic pH without mordant showed zone of inhibition for the growth against Staphylococcus aureus.Not Availabl

A Comparative Study on the Dyeing Efficiency of Pashmina and Pashmina Blended Knitwear with Acid Dyes

A study was conducted to assess the dyeing efficiency of pashmina and pashmina blendedz knitted fabrics. The pashmina, wool and nylon fibers were blended into five different proportions. Each blend was spun into 48 Nm. The yarn thus prepared was processed into interlock knitted fabric on a circular knitting machine. The knitted fabric was divided into two portions. One part of knitted fabrics was subjected to acid dyeing before nylon dissolution, while another part was subjected to dyeing after nylon dissolution. Both the fabric types were evaluated for dyeing efficiency in terms of color values, and fastness properties, besides their mechanical properties. The results indicated that the removal of nylon from the blended fabric resulted in considerable reduction in tensile strength and areal density, however, the elongation properties were not much altered. After nylon dissolution, the color values and fastness properties showed slight reduction, depending upon the blend composition. The SEM images confirmed that the HCl treatment is efficient to remove the nylon from the blended fabric