Carbon Dioxide Laser as a Sustainable Method for Producing a Pattern on Denim Fabric: Evaluation of Colour and Durability

Laser treatment of denim fabrics was demonstrated as one of the methods of producing distressed effects and is continuing to attract textile and fashion designers to develop bespoke designs that appeal to all age groups. Two dark shaded indigo-dyed 100% cotton twill fabric with varying weights representing various garment applications were laser treated using a commercially available pulsed CO2 laser of wavelength 10.62�m. Pulses per inch, which is the degree of closeness of laser irradiation, was maintained at 300 and 400 PPI. Treated denim fabrics were evaluated for tensile strength, colour measurements, including colour hue (H), saturation (S), brightness (B), reflectance, K/S (colour yield), CIE L* a* b*, fabric thickness and colourfastness after wash. Results indicated that colour contrast of denim fabric enhanced with the increase in grayscale (tone density) for both the LW (lightweight) and HW (heavyweight) fabrics, mainly at lower laser speed (80%) and higher laser power (40%). At higher grayscale (30% GS), surface fibers charred due to laser and the oxidation of cellulose occurred, causing a distinct yellow tone compared to pristine denim. Fabric tensile strength was affected as grayscale and laser parameters increased, the variation from pristine denim for LW fabric was 40 - 45% at 30% GS, whilst for HW fabric, variation was 25-30%. Colourfastness tests revealed limited colour staining, and it removed charred fibers showing a distinct tone change. This research recommends a combination of fabric and laser parameters to produce patterns without affecting the overall quality of the fabric

Investigation of bark cloth for its surface texture and durability for apparel applications

Ugandan bark cloth has been recognised by UNESCO as a masterpiece of the ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’, to protect the knowledge, traditions and livelihoods associated with its production. Bark cloth is a non-woven, fibrous textile that has been produced from the wild fig or mutuba tree (Ficus natalensis) by the Baganda people of southern Uganda for hundreds of years. A typical bark cloth has a rich, terracotta colour and is worn by kings and chiefs during coronations, religious ceremonies and cultural gatherings, as well as for funeral shrouds. This research is part of a project that explores the properties and significance of bark cloth from cultural, ethical, technical and aesthetic perspectives to determine its feasibility as a sustainable fashion textile. It will highlight the potential of bark cloth specifically in relation to the characteristics of luxury fashion (craftsmanship, quality, rarity, heritage and story-telling), through using techniques that include embroidery, appliqué, gilding, laser cutting, natural dyeing and fusing. In addition, the bark cloth has been investigated for its practical suitability for apparel end use. Various fabric tests have been carried out to investigate its performance including fabric drape, stiffness, surface morphology and tearing strength. The material was also subjected to laser etching to implement design patterns. The bark cloth was subjected to CO2 laser etching and sublimation printing to incorporate surface patterns. Based on the trials, an optimum set of parameters were identified to use laser and sublimation printing. As the material is stiff when it is heat-pressed and to facilitate the garment making process the bark cloth was fused with different types of knitted and woven fusible linings, and its drape and strength were also tested. A basic test garment (size 12 female full-sleeve top) was developed with the fused bark cloth that offered good drape and its shape and fit were evaluated on a mannequin. Outcomes indicated that bark cloth could be satisfactorily developed into outer garments with specific treatment. It is anticipated that this research will indirectly create demand for bark cloth from Uganda and help to support the artisans involved in the production of sustainable bark cloth

Environmentally friendly and sustainable bark cloth for garment applications: Evaluation of fabric properties and apparel development

Ugandan bark cloth has been recognised by UNESCO as a masterpiece of the ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’, to protect the knowledge, traditions and livelihoods associated with its production. Bark cloth is a non-woven, fibrous textile that has been produced from the wild fig or mutuba tree (Ficus natalensis) by the Baganda people of southern Uganda for hundreds of years. A typical bark cloth has a rich, terracotta colour and is worn by kings and chiefs during coronations, religious ceremonies and cultural gatherings, as well as for funeral shrouds. Due to the growing awareness and the need to reduce the environmental impact of textiles, there is a pressing rationale to use natural materials or fibres in fashion clothing in recent years as designers and practitioners embrace environmentally sustainable raw materials and promote traditional craftsmanship. Various properties and significance of bark cloth from cultural, ethical, technical and aesthetic perspectives to determine its feasibility as a sustainable fashion textile was explored. The potential of bark cloth specifically in relation to the characteristics of luxury fashion (craftsmanship, quality, rarity, heritage and storytelling), through using techniques that include embroidery, appliqué, gilding, laser cutting, natural dyeing and fusing is highlighted. The bark cloth was investigated for its practical suitability for apparel end use. Various fabric tests were conducted to determine its performance including fabric drape, stiffness, surface morphology, and tearing strength. The bark cloth was subjected to CO2 laser etching and sublimation printing to incorporate surface patterns and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy [ATR-FTIR] was used to monitor the loss of fibres. Based on the trials, an optimum set of parameters were identified to use laser and sublimation printing. Raw bark cloth was stiff when heat-pressed, so it was fused with various fusible interfacing fabrics [A,B, and C] to enhance drape, texture, handle and strength. Results indicated that bark cloth when fused with woven interfacing [C] improved its strength [warp direction aligned with fabric grain] by approximately six times [330 N] the strength of bark cloth [57 N]. Fabric drape increased marginally [1.0–3.0%] when fusing with the interfacing, however it offered better handle when making the garment. A basic test garment (size 12 female full-sleeve top) was developed with the fused bark cloth that offered good drape and its shape and fit were evaluated on a mannequin. Outcomes indicated that bark cloth could be satisfactorily developed into outer garments with specific treatment

Consumer Perception of Environmentally Friendly Antimicrobial Textiles: a case study from India

The recent global pandemic and increasing awareness of hygiene led to changes in consumers’ behaviour towards their health and wellbeing. Owing to growing consumers’ knowledge on the environmental impact of textiles, especially those who are health conscious and living in cities, it becomes vital to explore their perception towards antimicrobial textiles. This study investigated the consumer perception and specific requirement of sustainable antimicrobial textiles. A cross-sectional questionnaire survey was conducted online and collated from 306 participants (Female 49.3%; Male 50.6%) of five main cities in India including Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, and Chennai. The majority of participants were healthcare workers and academics with an average age of 32 ± 7 (6.6 standard deviation). The questionnaire had high internal consistency and reliability, and the factor analysis indicated 15 items relating to four attributes that were relevant to extract information from the community on environment-friendly antimicrobial textile. The findings show that consumer’s awareness of rural health, hygiene and environmental issues could influence the purchase of sustainable antimicrobial textiles made of organic fibres with herbal finish. Consumers believe that by purchasing a sustainable product they contribute towards society. This is the first study to report on consumers’ preferences for sustainable antimicrobial textiles and contributes to the literature by developing a scale with high reliability that is community-relevant, consumer centered, and product-specific. This research underscores the importance of consumers’ awareness, knowledge, and preference of environmentally friendly antimicrobial hygiene textiles. The outcomes will benefit various stakeholders [healthcare workers, industry, and community] in promoting environmental-friendly and sustainable products among consumers in India

Novel antimicrobial finishing of organic cotton fabrics using nano-emulsions derived from Karanja and Gokhru plants

Plant-based antimicrobial finishing of textiles is comparable in efficacy, can replace synthetic antimicrobial agents, and is environmentally safe and effective. However, developing durable antimicrobial finishes on cotton-based textiles is a challenge. This research reports the development and characterization of nano-emulsions obtained from Karanja [Milletia pinnata] and Gokhru [Pedalium murex Linn] plants. The nano-emulsions were produced using Milletia pinnata, coconut oil, and curry leaves (nano-emulsion 1) and Pedalium murex, coconut oil, and curry leaves (nano-emulsion 2). The nano-emulsions were characterized for their thermal stability, particle size, pH, and percentage add-on. Two different oils, with surfactant (polysorbate) ratios [1:1 and 1:2], were finished on organic cotton fabrics using a batch process. Scanning electron microscopy images were evaluated to determine the surface morphology of the finished fabrics, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry images of nano-emulsions were studied to determine the specific chemical constituents of nano-emulsions 1 and 2. The finished fabrics were evaluated for their antimicrobial resistance using various gram-positive bacteria [Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis], which are found on human skin and cause nosocomial infections, gram-negative bacteria [Escherichia coli and Klebsiella pneumoniae], which cause urinary tract infections, and fungi [Aspergillus niger]. The antimicrobial resistance was in the range of 98.62–99.87%, even after 10 washes, indicating that the finishes were effective and durable. The finished and unfinished fabrics were also evaluated for their performance properties, tensile strength, and moisture vapor transmission rate, and the results indicated good durability and comfort characteristics. Our findings highlight the potential of plant-based antimicrobial agents for durable finishing of cotton textiles with antimicrobial properties, thus preventing the spread of infections

Development of Advanced Textile Finishes Using Nano-Emulsions from Herbal Extracts for Organic Cotton Fabrics

The development of textile finishing with improved functional properties has been a growing interest among industry and scientists worldwide. The recent global pandemic also enhanced the awareness amongst many toward improved hygiene and the use of antimicrobial textiles. Generally, natural herbal components are known to possess antimicrobial properties which are green and eco-friendly. This research reports a novel and innovative method of developing and optimising nano-emulsions using two combinations of herbal extracts produced from Moringa Oleifera, curry leaf, coconut oil (nano-emulsion 1) and other using Aegle marmelos with curry leaf and coconut oil (nano-emulsion 2). Nano-emulsions were optimised for their pH, thermal stability, and particle size, and percentage add-on. Organic cotton fabrics (20 and 60 gsm) were finished with nano-emulsions using continuous and batch processes and characterised for their surface morphology using scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive X-ray (EDX) analysis and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis. The finished fabrics were evaluated for their Whiteness Index, assessed for antimicrobial resistance against Gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli) using AATCC 100 and 147 methods. In addition, fabrics were assessed for their antifungal efficacy (AATCC 30), tensile strength and air permeability. Results suggested that finished organic fabrics with nano-emulsions had antimicrobial resistance, antifungal, wash fastness after 20 washing cycles, and sufficient strength. This novel finishing method suggests that organic cotton fabrics treated with nano-emulsions can be used as a durable antimicrobial textile for healthcare and hygiene textiles

Development of sustainable herbal antimicrobial finish for organic cotton fabrics using Millettia pinnata L. and Pedalium murex

The recent global pandemic has raised awareness of hygiene and increased the need to control the spread of infection through textiles. The textile industry professionals and academics have focussed on developing various antimicrobial and antiviral compounds for textiles. In addition, the use of plant-based antimicrobial compounds is environmentally safe when compared with synthetic chemicals. In this study, we report the extraction of nano-emulsion using a combination of herbal oil - milletia pinnata L., curry leaf, coconut oil and the other combination using pedalium murex, curry leaf, and coconut oil mixture. The oils were extracted using the solvent extraction method, which offered a good yield of 92%. The different oil ratios [1:1 and 1:2] have been extracted and analysed for their effectiveness. Thermal stability (50-60°C) and pH [5-6] was determined to identify the best possible add-on for the chosen fabric structure. 100% organic cotton woven fabrics were treated with herbal nano-emulsion using exhaust method and evaluated for its antimicrobial efficacy [AATCC 100] before and after 10 washes with gram-positive [MRSA – Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis] and gram-negative bacteria – [Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae]. The performance properties of the above-finished fabrics were also evaluated. Antimicrobial results reveal a clear zone of inhibition when treated with both the herbal extracts [Millettia pinnata L. and Pedalium murex], suggesting that herbal nano-emulsions studied in this work is a potential antimicrobial finish for cotton textiles that is sustainable and environmentally safe to use and is biodegradable after usage

Investigation of natural levels of copper in fungi as protection in wearable textiles for electrically sensitive individuals

Electro-smog from technologies such as Wi-Fi and mobile phones are a ubiquitous part of modern-day living and the incidence of electro hypersensitivity is rising. The growing number of individuals who are sensitive to electromagnetic fields is the forewarning of an emergent dystopia, from symptoms including skin rashes, heart palpitations and headaches to brain fog and attention deficit disorder. Efforts to address such detrimental concerns have become crucial in all sectors including the wearable technology in the fashion industry. To establish a mechanism for neutralizing the potentially harmful effects of manmade radiation, a pilot study was undertaken by this study to hypothesise and test that the hyper-accumulation of copper, in some species of fungi, could be extracted and used as a protective element for the electrically sensitive population in wearable textiles. Three samples of silk, pre-mordanted with alum or pomegranate skins, were treated with an extract of either Shiitake (Lentinula edodes), Blewit (Lepista nuda) or Button mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus). Applied kinesiology (Manual muscle testing) was further employed to determine the change in muscle strength of participants with the treated silk. The results showed that there was a significant difference between muscle strength and the fungi treated silk during exposure to cell phone radiation. Blewit and alum produced a better muscle response, warranting further experimental work with this variant. The study combines traditional and innovative methods of neutralizing electromagnetic fields

Validation of a Finite Element Modelling Process for Auxetic Structures under Impact

Auxetic materials behave unconventionally under deformation, which enhances material properties such as resistance to indentation and energy absorption. Auxetics, therefore, have the potential to enhance sporting protective equipment. This study explores finite element modeling, additive manufacturing and impact testing of three auxetic lattices, and a conventional equivalent, with a view to advance auxetic implementation within sports equipment. The lattices are modeled and impacts are simulated between 1 J and 5 J, for flat and hemispherical drop hammers. Simulation outputs, including peak impact force, impact duration, maximum axial strain and Poisson’s ratio are compared to experimental results from equivalent impact energies on additively manufactured lattices, using an instrumented drop tower and a high‐speed camera. The simulation and experimental results show broad agreement for all lattices and scenarios, demonstrated by comparative force vs time plots and maximum compression images. The benefits of developing and validating finite element models of three auxetic lattices (as well as the conventional honeycomb lattice) under various impact scenarios as a process is discussed, including material characterization of an exemplar thermoplastic polyurethane. Future work could use the models to investigate auxetic lattices further, selecting and tailoring candidates to further explore their potential application to specific personal protective equipment in sport