A controlled experiment on yarn hairiness and fabric pilling

This study focused on the hairiness of worsted wool yarns and how it affects the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics. Conventional worsted ring spun yarns were compared with comparable SolospunTM yarns and yarns modified with a hairiness reducing air nozzle in the winding process (JetWind). Measurements of yarn hairiness (S3) on the Zweigle G565 hairiness meter showed a reduction in the S3 value of approximately 46% was achieved using SolospunTM ring spinning attachment and a 33% reduction was achieved using the JetWind process. Interestingly, subsequent evaluation of the pilling performance of fabrics made from the SolospunTM spun yarn and JetWind modified yarn showed a half grade and full grade improvement, respectively over a similar fabric made from conventional ring spun yarns. This result suggested that a relatively large reduction in yarn hairiness was needed to achieve a moderate improvement in fabric pilling, and that the nature of yarn hairiness was also a key factor in influencing fabric pilling propensity. It is postulated that the wrapping of surface hairs by the air vortex in the JetWind process may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and reach the critical height required for pill formation. <br /

Biotechnology for environmental quality: Closing the circles

This paper examines the impact of biotechnology for enhancing the quality of the environment, and the necessity of encouraging holistic approaches to environmental problem solving. Current actions are considered wanting because they place insufficient attention on the causes of environmental degradation. In this context, a number of issues and research agendas are presented, a consideration of which leads me to opine that urgent priorities for ensuring lasting sustainable development must include the widespread adoption of clean technology and ecosystem restoration. Biotechnology has a particularly decisive role to play in realizing clean processes and clean products, and this role is illustrated with reference to clean technology options in the industrial, agroforestry, food, raw materials, and minerals sectors. A quarter of a century ago Commoner (1971) used the metaphor of a closing circle to draw attention to incompatibilities of modern industrial society and ecological health. The second part of this paper argues that, as biotechnology has matured, a circle of synergistic flows of materials, services and ideas has been established between it and biodiversity and suggests a more optimistic scenario to that portrayed by Commoner. The closing of the biotechnology-biodiversity circle is manifest in the following terms: search and discovery; detection, circumscription and phylogeny; ecosystem function and restoration; industrial ecology; and the gearing provided by molecular biology. Finally, the North-South biotechnology-biodiversity circle presents critical problems of commercial exploitation and intellectual property rights in relation to the gene pools of the megadiversity but predominantly developing countries of the world