Spectroscopic and thermal characterization of alternative model biomembranes from shed skins of Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus

Recently, there has been an interest in the use of shed snake skin as alternative model biomembrane for human stratum corneum. This research work presented as objective the qualitative characterization of alternative model biomembranes from Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus by FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR and DSC. The employed biophysical techniques permitted the characterization of the biomembranes from shed snake skin of B. jararaca and S. pullatus by the identification of vibrational frequencies and endothermic transitions that are similar to those of the human stratum corneum.Existe atualmente interesse no uso da muda de pele de cobra como modelos alternativos de biomembranas da pele humana. O presente trabalho apresentou como objetivo a caracterização qualitativa de modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes de mudas de pele de cobra da Bothrops jararaca e Spilotis pullatus por espectroscopia Raman (FT-Raman), espectroscopia fotoacústica no infravermelho (PAS-FTIR) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC). As técnicas biofísicas FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR e DSC permitiram caracterizar qualitativamente os modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes das mudas de pele de cobra da B. jararaca e S. pullatus e identificar freqüências vibracionais e transições endotérmicas similares ao estrato córneo humano

Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant

The excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the world. In this context, the development of innovative and more effective sunscreens, with bioactive compounds like caffeine, displaying antioxidant and anticancer potential, is required. This research work assessed in vitro and in vivo the efficacy and safety of topical sunscreen formulations containing caffeine as an adjuvant of the UV filters. Sunscreens were prepared with 2.5% w/w caffeine or in the absence of this compound. In order to evaluate the safety of these formulations, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier and colorimetry were assessed in vivo in healthy subjects before and after skin treatment with the samples. The efficacy of the sunscreens was assessed in vitro, using PMMA plates and a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere; and in vivo by the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). None of the formulations caused erythema or impaired the skin barrier function. The in vitro functional characterization showed higher SPF values for the caffeine formulation. The in vivo studies also confirmed the higher SPF value of the formulation combining caffeine with the filters, compared to the caffeine-free sample. This improvement contributed to an increase of, approximately, 25% in the in vivo anti-UVB protection. In conclusion, caffeine was well tolerated by the skin and increased the photoprotective activity, being a new alternative adjuvant in sunscreens formulation

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

A rutina é empregada como antioxidante e na prevenção da fragilidade capilar. Estudos de penetração in vitro através da pele humana seria a situação ideal, entretanto, há dificuldades de sua obtenção e manutenção de sua viabilidade. Entre os demais modelos de membrana, a muda de pele de cobra se apresenta como estrato córneo puro, fornecendo barreira similar ao humano e é obtida sem a morte do animal. Os objetivos desta pesquisa foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de uma emulsão cosmética contendo rutina e, como promotor de penetração cutânea, o propilenoglicol; e avaliar a penetração e a retenção cutânea in vitro da referida substância ativa da formulação, empregando um modelo de biomembrana alternativo. A emulsão foi desenvolvida com rutina e propilenoglicol, ambos a 5,0% p/p. Quantificou-se a rutina das emulsões por espectrofotometria a 361,0 nm, método previamente validado. A penetração e retenção cutânea in vitro foram realizadas em células de difusão vertical com muda de pele de cobra de Crotalus durissus, como modelo de biomembrana alternativo, e água destilada e álcool etílico absoluto 99,5% (1:1), como fluido receptor. O experimento foi conduzido em um período de seis horas, a 37,0 ± 0,5 ºC e agitação constante de 300 rpm. Empregou-se o método espectrofotométrico validado a 410,0 nm para a quantificação da rutina após penetração e retenção cutânea. A emulsão não promoveu a penetração cutânea da rutina através da muda de pele de C. durissus, retendo 0,931 ± 0,0391 mg de rutina/mg de muda de pele de cobra. Nas condições de armazenamento a 25,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 45,0 ± 0,5 ºC, a emulsão apresentou-se quimicamente estável durante 30 dias. De acordo com os resultados, a emulsão não favoreceu a penetração cutânea da rutina, mas apenas sua retenção no estrato córneo de C. durissus, condição considerada estável no período de 30 dias.Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 ºC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 45.0 ± 0.5 ºC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days

Comparative study of the effectiveness of intradermotherapy associated or not with microneedling and topical solution in reducing hair loss in men with androgenetic alopecia

Introduction: Androgenetic alopecia impacts patients psychologically. Androgenetic alopecia is an androgen-dependent condition characterized by hair follicles miniaturization, shortened anagen phase, and prolonged telogen phase. The increasing search for hair therapies to improve this condition leads to the need for robust methods to compare the effectiveness of treatments, such as standardized photographs and clinical evaluation. Objective: This study comparatively assessed the efficacy of intradermotherapy associated or not with microneedling and application of sterile topical solution whose active components are Octapeptide-2, Copper tripeptide-1, Chondrus crispus extract, and Silanediol salicylate. Methods: Standardized photographs and patients’ clinical findings were compared per experimental group in a blind and paired manner by dermatologists, with attribution of scores referring to hair loss improvement. Results: The group treated with the therapeutic association obtained better results than the group treated with intradermotherapy alone (control), with 70% of patients showing improvement scores against 54%. There was a statistically significant difference between the treatment groups. Conclusion: The therapeutic association of intradermotherapy with microneedling followed by topic treatment was significantly more effective in improving male hair loss compared to control

Latanoprosta e minoxidil: Estudo duplo-cego comparativo, placebo-controlado no tratamento da queda de cabelos

Introdução: A latanoprosta tem demonstrado potencial para o tratamento de queda de cabelos devido ao aumento da espessura e do comprimento dos cílios e hipertricose, observados com seu uso na área dos olhos. Objetivo: Avaliar a eficácia da latanoprosta, isolada ou em associações, na redução da queda e/ou estimulando o crescimento de cabelos em pacientes portadores de eflúvio telógeno ou alopecia androgenética. Métodos: Estudo duplo-cego comparativo, durante 180 dias, entre seis grupos: G1: placebo G2: minoxidil 5%; G3: minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,005%; G4: latanoprosta 0,005%; G5: minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,010%; G6: latanoprosta 0,010%. Foi feita a contagem em fototricograma do total e percentual de fios em fase anágena e telógena. Resultados: Houve melhora para os grupos G2 (total de fios e número de fios anágenos em D92 e D180), G3 (total de fios e número de fios anágenos em D242), G4 (total de fios em D182; número de fios anágenos em D92 e D182) e G5 (total de fios em D182; percentual de fios telógenos e anágenos e número de fios anágenos em D92 e D182). O Tratamento do G6 não apresentou diferença significativa em relação ao placebo. Conclusões: Os tratamentos com minoxidil 5%, minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,005%, latanoprosta 0,005%, minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,010% se mostraram eficazes no controle da queda e no aumento total de fios

The Scenario of Clays and Clay Minerals Use in Cosmetics/Dermocosmetics

The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, compositions, usages as active compounds and cosmetic ingredients/starting materials, and observations about formulation techniques. From this review, we observed that although much scientific and specialized literature has reported the characterization of clays, only some involved efficacy tests when incorporated into cosmetic products, mainly concerning haircare applications. Our review could be considered and encouraged in the coming years to provide scientific and technical information for the cosmetic industry regarding the multifunctional use of clays and clay minerals

Influence of particle size on appearance and in vitro efficacy of sunscreens

A nanotecnologia se aplica a diversos setores da ciência. Na área de cosméticos, os investimentos têm reforçado a idéia de que nanoprodutos oferecem inúmeros benefícios para os consumidores. A exposição excessiva à luz solar pode causar efeitos indesejáveis, logo, a adição de filtros UV em produtos cosméticos é frequentemente usada como prevenção. O p-metoxicinamato de octila e a benzofenona-3 são filtros UV amplamente utilizados em formulações de protecção solar, que absorvem radiações UVB e UVA, respectivamente. Neste estudo, desenvolveram-se formulações de protetores solares na forma de nano e macroemulsão, mas compostos pelas mesmas matérias-primas. A nanoemulsão foi obtida pelo método da temperatura de inversão de fases (PIT). As propriedades físicas e funcionais foram avaliadas por análise visual, distribuição de tamanho de partículas e por espectrofotometria de reflectância difusa. A nanoemulsão obtida apresentou brilho azulado, menor consistência aparente quando comparada `a macroemulsão, estabilidade superior a 48 horas (22,0 ± 2,0 ° C) e distribuição de tamanhos de partícula bimodal, com média (média) de tamanhos ao redor de 10 nm (61%) e 4,5 µm (39%) . A macroemulsão apresentou aspecto leitoso, maior consistência aaprente do que nanoemulsão, instabilidade após 48 horas (22,0 ± 2,0 ºC) e distribuição de tamanhos de partícula bimodal, com média (média) de tamanhos ao redor de 202 nm (9%) e 10,4 µm (91%). O perfil de eficácia das formulações fotoprotetoras permaneceu aparentemente similar, com base em resultados obtidos por ensaios de FPS in vitro, relação UVA/UVB e comprimento de onda crítico.Nanotechnology applies to diverse sectors of science. In cosmetic area, investments have strengthened the idea that nanoproducts provide innumerable benefits to consumers. Extreme exposition to solar light can cause undesirable effects, thus, adding UV filters in cosmetic products are often used as prevention. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3 are UV filters widely used in sunscreen formulations, this UV filters absorb UVB and UVA radiation, respectively. In this study, sunscreen formulations were developed as nano and macroemulsion, but composed by the same raw material. Nanoemulsion was obtained by phase inversion temperature method (PIT). Physical and functional properties were evaluated by visual analysis, particle size distribution and by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Achieved nanoemulsion showed bluish brightness aspect, less apparent consistency than macroemulsion, stability longer than 48 hours (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and bimodal particle size distribution with average (mean) sizes around 10 nm (61%) and 4.5 µm (39%). Macroemulsion showed milky aspect, higher consistency than nanoemulsion, instability after 48 hours (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and bimodal particle size distribution with average (mean) size around 202 nm (9%) and 10.4 µm (91%). Effectiveness profile of sunscreen formulations remained apparently similar, based on achieved results of in vitro SPF, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength assays

Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography

Background/purpose The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. Methods In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. Results The mean diameter of the medulla was 29 +/- 7 mu m and the hair diameter was 122 +/- 16 mu m in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 mu m at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. Conclusion It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.CAPESFAPES