Spectroscopic and thermal characterization of alternative model biomembranes from shed skins of Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus

Recently, there has been an interest in the use of shed snake skin as alternative model biomembrane for human stratum corneum. This research work presented as objective the qualitative characterization of alternative model biomembranes from Bothrops jararaca and Spilotis pullatus by FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR and DSC. The employed biophysical techniques permitted the characterization of the biomembranes from shed snake skin of B. jararaca and S. pullatus by the identification of vibrational frequencies and endothermic transitions that are similar to those of the human stratum corneum.Existe atualmente interesse no uso da muda de pele de cobra como modelos alternativos de biomembranas da pele humana. O presente trabalho apresentou como objetivo a caracterização qualitativa de modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes de mudas de pele de cobra da Bothrops jararaca e Spilotis pullatus por espectroscopia Raman (FT-Raman), espectroscopia fotoacústica no infravermelho (PAS-FTIR) e calorimetria exploratória diferencial (DSC). As técnicas biofísicas FT-Raman, PAS-FTIR e DSC permitiram caracterizar qualitativamente os modelos alternativos de biomembranas provenientes das mudas de pele de cobra da B. jararaca e S. pullatus e identificar freqüências vibracionais e transições endotérmicas similares ao estrato córneo humano

Influences of bioactive substances on the physicochemical and functional stability of sunscreen emulsions

The usage of isolated ultraviolet filters in photoprotective formulations produces products with limited protection against the solar radiations, which highlights the need for active compounds (filters and bioactive compounds) combinations. Previous studies have demonstrated that rutin, a bioactive compound, interacts with filters incorporated in sunscreens. Therefore, this work aimed at evaluating the influence of rutin on the physicochemical and functional stability of sunscreen emulsions. Sixteen formulations were developed, submitted to the Preliminary Stability Testing and characterized according to pH value, rheological profile and in vitro photoprotective efficacy. The formulation with the best performance and the correspondent formulation without rutin were submitted to the Normal Stability Testing. All formulations presented pH values compatible with the skin and similar rheological behavior. Formulation F16 and the same formulation without rutin were submitted to the Normal Stability Testing and presented similar pH values and rheological profiles that were maintained during the days of analysis. The antioxidant activity was stable only for formulations stored at 5.0 ± 0.5 °C. The in vitro photoprotective efficacy demonstrated similar results among both formulations that were also observed on all days of analysis

Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant

The excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the world. In this context, the development of innovative and more effective sunscreens, with bioactive compounds like caffeine, displaying antioxidant and anticancer potential, is required. This research work assessed in vitro and in vivo the efficacy and safety of topical sunscreen formulations containing caffeine as an adjuvant of the UV filters. Sunscreens were prepared with 2.5% w/w caffeine or in the absence of this compound. In order to evaluate the safety of these formulations, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier and colorimetry were assessed in vivo in healthy subjects before and after skin treatment with the samples. The efficacy of the sunscreens was assessed in vitro, using PMMA plates and a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere; and in vivo by the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). None of the formulations caused erythema or impaired the skin barrier function. The in vitro functional characterization showed higher SPF values for the caffeine formulation. The in vivo studies also confirmed the higher SPF value of the formulation combining caffeine with the filters, compared to the caffeine-free sample. This improvement contributed to an increase of, approximately, 25% in the in vivo anti-UVB protection. In conclusion, caffeine was well tolerated by the skin and increased the photoprotective activity, being a new alternative adjuvant in sunscreens formulation

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

A rutina é empregada como antioxidante e na prevenção da fragilidade capilar. Estudos de penetração in vitro através da pele humana seria a situação ideal, entretanto, há dificuldades de sua obtenção e manutenção de sua viabilidade. Entre os demais modelos de membrana, a muda de pele de cobra se apresenta como estrato córneo puro, fornecendo barreira similar ao humano e é obtida sem a morte do animal. Os objetivos desta pesquisa foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de uma emulsão cosmética contendo rutina e, como promotor de penetração cutânea, o propilenoglicol; e avaliar a penetração e a retenção cutânea in vitro da referida substância ativa da formulação, empregando um modelo de biomembrana alternativo. A emulsão foi desenvolvida com rutina e propilenoglicol, ambos a 5,0% p/p. Quantificou-se a rutina das emulsões por espectrofotometria a 361,0 nm, método previamente validado. A penetração e retenção cutânea in vitro foram realizadas em células de difusão vertical com muda de pele de cobra de Crotalus durissus, como modelo de biomembrana alternativo, e água destilada e álcool etílico absoluto 99,5% (1:1), como fluido receptor. O experimento foi conduzido em um período de seis horas, a 37,0 ± 0,5 ºC e agitação constante de 300 rpm. Empregou-se o método espectrofotométrico validado a 410,0 nm para a quantificação da rutina após penetração e retenção cutânea. A emulsão não promoveu a penetração cutânea da rutina através da muda de pele de C. durissus, retendo 0,931 ± 0,0391 mg de rutina/mg de muda de pele de cobra. Nas condições de armazenamento a 25,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 45,0 ± 0,5 ºC, a emulsão apresentou-se quimicamente estável durante 30 dias. De acordo com os resultados, a emulsão não favoreceu a penetração cutânea da rutina, mas apenas sua retenção no estrato córneo de C. durissus, condição considerada estável no período de 30 dias.Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 ºC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 45.0 ± 0.5 ºC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days

Influence of shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), titanium dioxide and ethylhexyl methoxicinnamate on physical parameters and in vitro efficacy of lip molded photoprotectors

Os mecanismos endógenos de proteção frente aos danos promovidos pelas radiações solares são insuficientes, tornando importante a utilização de formulações fotoprotetoras, corporais e labiais, para reduzir as lesões promovidas por tais radiações. Protetores labiais são preparações que protegem os lábios de fatores ambientais adversos e evitam o ressecamento. Citam-se, como exemplos, os fotoprotetores labiais, que protegem a mucosa labial das radiações ultravioleta A e B. Estes são compostos por filtros solares (compostos ativos), aditivos e agentes graxos, dentre outros, os quais podem exercer influência na eficácia fotoprotetora da preparação. Deste modo, estudar a influência da alteração quali e quantitativa de determinados componentes da fórmula na fotoproteção conferida pelo produto final é de grande valia para a melhoria da eficácia do fotoprotetor labial. Portanto, este trabalho objetivou o desenvolvimento de fotoprotetores labiais contendo manteiga de karitê (butyrospermum parkii) como composto bioativo, ethylhexyl methoxicinnamate como filtro solar orgânico e titanium dioxide como filtro solar inorgânico; a avaliação da estabilidade das preparações por meio da Avaliação Preliminar da Estabilidade; a caracterização organoléptica e física das preparações; e a determinação da eficácia fotoprotetora in vitro por espectrofotometria de refletância difusa com esfera de integração. Todas as balas foram consideradas estáveis. Dentre as variáveis estudadas, o titanium dioxide exerceu influência na maioria das respostas avaliadas (ponto de fusão por equipamento de ponto de fusão; valor de L*; valor de b*; distância máxima no teste de dureza; força máxima no cantilever test; valor de slope no cantilever test; razão UVA/UVB; fator de proteção solar; e porcentagem de transmitância). A manteiga de karitê exerceu influência nas respostas: distância máxima no teste de dureza; força máxima no cantilever test; e valor de slope no cantilever test (apenas a 25°C). O ethylhexyl methoxicinnamate influenciou nas respostas: distância máxima no teste de dureza; força máxima no cantilever test; valor de slope no cantilever test (apenas a 25°C); razão UVA/UVB; fator de proteção solar; e porcentagem de transmitância. Nenhuma das variáveis influenciou as respostas: valor de ponto de gota, DSC e a distância máxima no cantilever test.The endogenous protection mechanisms against the damages promoted by solar radiations are insufficient. Therefore, the use of photoprotective formulations both corporal and labial, become important for the minimization of the lesions caused by these radiations. Lip protectors are preparations that protect the lips against adverse environmental conditions and avoid their dehydration. Photoprotective lipsticks may be cited as examples. These formulations protect the mucosa against ultraviolet A and B radiations. They are composed by solar filters (active compounds), addictives and fatty agents, amongst others, which may exert influence on the formulation\'s photoprotective efficacy. Therefore, the study of the influence of qualitative and quantitative alterations of certain components of the formula on the photoprotection supplied by the final product is greatly valuable for the efficacy improvement of a photoprotective lipstick. Hence, this research work aimed at the development of photoprotective lipsticks containing shea butter (butyrospermum parkii) as bioactive compound, ethylhexyl methoxicinnamate as organic filter and titanium dioxide as inorganic filter; the evaluation of formulations\' stability through the Preliminary Stability Test; physical and organoleptical characterization of the formulation; and the determination of the in vitro photoprotective efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectroscopy with integration sphere. All formulations were considered stable. Amongst the studied variables, titanium dioxide influenced the majority of the evaluated responses (melting point using melting point equipment; L* value; b* value; maximum distance on the hardness test; maximum strength on cantilever test; slope value on cantilever test; UVA/UVB ratio; sun protection factor; and transmittance percentage). Shea butter influenced: maximum distance on the hardness test; maximum strength on cantilever test; and slope value on cantilever test (only at 25°C). Ethylhexyl methoxicinnamate influenced: maximum distance on the hardness test; maximum strength on cantilever test; slope value on cantilever test (only at 25°C); UVA/UVB ratio; sun protection factor and transmittance percentage. None of the variables influenced drop point, DSC and maximum distance on the cantilever test

Método para avaliação quantitativa da eficácia de tratamentos para queda de cabelo mediante análise de imagens: estudo preliminar

Introdução: O número de mulheres que buscam tratamento para alopecia androgenética tem crescido na última década, bem como as opções terapêuticas e os métodos para avaliar a eficácia de tratamentos. Nesse contexto, é necessário o desenvolvimento de métodos simples e objetivos para avaliar quantitativamente a eficácia dos tratamentos capilares. Objetivo: Validar um método quantitativo para avaliar a eficácia de tratamentos para a queda de cabelos. Métodos: Comparação de fotos padronizadas, obtidas antes e depois dos tratamentos, analisadas com auxílio de um software, que fornece o cálculo automático da área de falha, em pixels quadrados, a partir do contraste entre claro (região com perda capilar) e escuro (região com quantidade normal de cabelos), possibilitando estimar a área de couro cabeludo que não apresenta cobertura capilar e, assim, quantificar a eficácia dos tratamentos. Resultados: O método é eficaz para a avaliação da área afetada pela perda capilar tanto em pacientes com grau inicial (Savin I-1a) quanto em quadros mais avançados (Savin III e avançada). Conclusões: O método proposto permite avaliar de forma rápida, simples e com baixo custo a eficácia de diversos tipos de tratamentos para eflúvio telógeno e alopecia androgenética

Comparative study of the effectiveness of intradermotherapy associated or not with microneedling and topical solution in reducing hair loss in men with androgenetic alopecia

Introduction: Androgenetic alopecia impacts patients psychologically. Androgenetic alopecia is an androgen-dependent condition characterized by hair follicles miniaturization, shortened anagen phase, and prolonged telogen phase. The increasing search for hair therapies to improve this condition leads to the need for robust methods to compare the effectiveness of treatments, such as standardized photographs and clinical evaluation. Objective: This study comparatively assessed the efficacy of intradermotherapy associated or not with microneedling and application of sterile topical solution whose active components are Octapeptide-2, Copper tripeptide-1, Chondrus crispus extract, and Silanediol salicylate. Methods: Standardized photographs and patients’ clinical findings were compared per experimental group in a blind and paired manner by dermatologists, with attribution of scores referring to hair loss improvement. Results: The group treated with the therapeutic association obtained better results than the group treated with intradermotherapy alone (control), with 70% of patients showing improvement scores against 54%. There was a statistically significant difference between the treatment groups. Conclusion: The therapeutic association of intradermotherapy with microneedling followed by topic treatment was significantly more effective in improving male hair loss compared to control

Latanoprosta e minoxidil: Estudo duplo-cego comparativo, placebo-controlado no tratamento da queda de cabelos

Introdução: A latanoprosta tem demonstrado potencial para o tratamento de queda de cabelos devido ao aumento da espessura e do comprimento dos cílios e hipertricose, observados com seu uso na área dos olhos. Objetivo: Avaliar a eficácia da latanoprosta, isolada ou em associações, na redução da queda e/ou estimulando o crescimento de cabelos em pacientes portadores de eflúvio telógeno ou alopecia androgenética. Métodos: Estudo duplo-cego comparativo, durante 180 dias, entre seis grupos: G1: placebo G2: minoxidil 5%; G3: minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,005%; G4: latanoprosta 0,005%; G5: minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,010%; G6: latanoprosta 0,010%. Foi feita a contagem em fototricograma do total e percentual de fios em fase anágena e telógena. Resultados: Houve melhora para os grupos G2 (total de fios e número de fios anágenos em D92 e D180), G3 (total de fios e número de fios anágenos em D242), G4 (total de fios em D182; número de fios anágenos em D92 e D182) e G5 (total de fios em D182; percentual de fios telógenos e anágenos e número de fios anágenos em D92 e D182). O Tratamento do G6 não apresentou diferença significativa em relação ao placebo. Conclusões: Os tratamentos com minoxidil 5%, minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,005%, latanoprosta 0,005%, minoxidil 5% + latanoprosta 0,010% se mostraram eficazes no controle da queda e no aumento total de fios

The Scenario of Clays and Clay Minerals Use in Cosmetics/Dermocosmetics

The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, compositions, usages as active compounds and cosmetic ingredients/starting materials, and observations about formulation techniques. From this review, we observed that although much scientific and specialized literature has reported the characterization of clays, only some involved efficacy tests when incorporated into cosmetic products, mainly concerning haircare applications. Our review could be considered and encouraged in the coming years to provide scientific and technical information for the cosmetic industry regarding the multifunctional use of clays and clay minerals