Fashion and Memory

Elizabeth Wilson writes that fashion can be understood as ‘poised ambiguously between present and past’ (2003 [1985]: vii). Being bound up intimately with time, as well as having a selective – and sometimes skewed – perspective on the past, fashion provides a lens through which to explore the cultural practices of remembering and forgetting. These themes informed ‘Fashion and Re-collection’, an interdisciplinary symposium held at London College of Fashion in January 2013.1 Memory provided a common point of departure, facilitating meaningful exchange between scholars from different disciplines. This thematic issue on fashion and memory brings together a selection of articles developed from, and in response to, the symposium theme. Although diverse in conceptual vocabulary, the papers share an emphasis on what could be remembered, or remembered differently, through the critical study of fashion. All contributions come from postgraduate scholars and so the issue also serves to showcase emerging doctoral research in the field

Pine and mistletoes: how to live with a leak in the water flow and storage system?

The mistletoe, Viscum album, living on Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) has been reported barely to regulate its transpiration and thus heavily to affect the gas exchange of its host. The extent of this mistletoe effect and its underlying mechanism has, so far, only been partially analysed. In this study, pine branches with different mistletoe infestation levels were investigated by sap flow gauges and analysed with a modelling approach to identify the mistletoe-induced stomatal regulation of pine and its consequences for the water and carbon balances of the tree. It was found that Viscum album barely regulates its stomata and that pines consequently compensate for the additional water loss of mistletoes by closing their own stomata. Despite the reduced stomatal aperture of the needles, the total water loss of branches with mistletoes increased. Furthermore, the increasingly closed stomata reduced carbon assimilation for the pine. Such a negative effect of the mistletoes on pine's stomatal conductance and carbon gain was particularly strong during dry periods. Our study therefore suggests that mistletoe-induced stomatal closure is a successful mechanism against dying from hydraulic failure in the short term but increases the risk of carbon starvation in the long term. With the current conditions in Valais, Switzerland, a tree with more than about 10-20% of its total leaf area attributable to mistletoes is at the threshold of keeping a positive carbon balance. The currently increasing mistletoe abundance, due to increasing mean annual temperatures, is therefore accelerating the ongoing pine decline in many dry inner-Alpine valley

Logistics 4.0 in warehousing: a conceptual framework of influencing factors, benefits and barriers

Purpose: In the last decade, the Industry 4.0 paradigm had started to rapidly expand to the logistics domain. However, Logistics 4.0 is still in an early adoption stage: some areas such as warehousing are still exploring its applicability, and the technological implementation of this paradigm can become fuzzy. This paper addresses this gap by examining the relationship among influencing factors, barriers, and benefits of Logistics 4.0 technologies in warehousing contexts. Design/methodology/approach: Starting from a Systematic Literature Review (SLR) approach with 56 examined documents published in scientific journals or conference proceedings, a conceptual framework for Logistics 4.0 in warehousing is proposed. The framework encompasses multiple aspects related to the potential adopter’s decision-making process. Findings: Influencing factors toward adoption, achievable benefits, and possible hurdles or criticalities have been extensively analyzed and structured into a consistent picture. Company’s digital awareness and readiness result in a major influencing factor, whereas barriers and criticalities are mostly technological, safety and security, and economic in nature. Warehousing process optimization is the key benefit identified. Originality/value: This paper addresses a major gap since most of the research has focused on specific facets, or adopted the technology providers’ perspective, whereas little has been explored in warehousing from the adopters’ view. The main novelty and value lie in providing both academics and practitioners with a thorough view of multiple facets to be considered when approaching Logistics 4.0 in logistics facilities

Entrapment in phospholipid vesicles quenches photoactivity of quantum dots

Quantum dots have emerged with great promise for biological applications as fluorescent markers for immunostaining, labels for intracellular trafficking, and photosensitizers for photodynamic therapy. However, upon entry into a cell, quantum dots are trapped and their fluorescence is quenched in endocytic vesicles such as endosomes and lysosomes. In this study, the photophysical properties of quantum dots were investigated in liposomes as an in vitro vesicle model. Entrapment of quantum dots in liposomes decreases their fluorescence lifetime and intensity. Generation of free radicals by liposomal quantum dots is inhibited compared to that of free quantum dots. Nevertheless, quantum dot fluorescence lifetime and intensity increases due to photolysis of liposomes during irradiation. In addition, protein adsorption on the quantum dot surface and the acidic environment of vesicles also lead to quenching of quantum dot fluorescence, which reappears during irradiation. In conclusion, the in vitro model of phospholipid vesicles has demonstrated that those quantum dots that are fated to be entrapped in endocytic vesicles lose their fluorescence and ability to act as photosensitizers

Describing Ultrasound Skills Teaching by Near-Peer and Faculty Tutors Using Cognitive Apprenticeship.

Phenomenon: Ultrasound skills are becoming increasingly important in clinical practice but are resource-intensive to teach. Near-peer tutors often alleviate faculty teaching burden, but little is known about what teaching methods near-peer and faculty tutors use. Using the lens of cognitive apprenticeship, this study describes how much time faculty and near-peer tutors spend on different teaching methods during abdominal ultrasound skills training. Approach: Sixteen near-peer and 16 faculty tutors were videotaped during one 55-min practical ultrasound lesson with randomly assigned students. Videos were directly coded using Cognitive Apprenticeship teaching methods and activities. Segment durations were summed up and compared quantitatively. Findings: All 32 tutors spent most of the time on observing and helping students (Coaching, Median 29:14 minutes), followed by asking open and stimulating questions (Articulation, 12:04 minutes and demonstrating and giving explanations (Modeling, 04:50 minutes). Overall, distributions of teaching methods used were similar between faculty and near-peer tutors. However, faculty tutors spent more time on helping students manually, whereas near-peer tutors spent more time on exploring students' learning gaps and establishing a safe learning climate. Cognitive Apprenticeship was well suited as observational framework to describe ultrasound skills. Insights: Ultrasound train-the-tutor programs should particularly focus on coaching and articulation. Near-peers' similar use of teaching methods adds to the evidence that supports the use of near-peer teaching in ultrasound skills education

The Namaini, a new weevil tribe with six new genera from South Africa (Coleoptera: Curculionidae: Entiminae)

Based on a phylogenetic analysis of a large number of mainly undescribed edaphic Entiminae from South Africa, a new tribe of entimine weevils is described, which includes six new genera. Taxa included in Namaini trib. nov. are clustered into seven clades that are used to delimit the following genera: Nama, type genus of the tribe, plus the new genera Cederbergia gen. nov., Cervellaea gen. nov., Namaquania gen. nov., Pentamerica gen. nov., Springbokia gen. nov. and Yamalaka gen. nov. A key to the genera is given and four new species are described

Is thinking worthwhile? A comparison of corporate segment choice strategies.

The field of strategic marketing has long been identified as fruitful ground for gaining competitive advantage. Ever since the market segmentation concept was introduced in the late sixties, research interest steadily increased, covering issues as e.g. which fundamental segmentation strategy is most appropriate, in which ways can segments be identified or constructed, which algorithm provides optimal data-driven segmentation solutions, which number of segments should be constructed etc.. Interestingly, the issue of segment evaluation and choice has not been emphasised very strongly in the past, although this is of primary interest as soon as it comes to practical implementation. This article tries to fill this gap in an experimental manner: the consequences of different corporate segment choice strategies based on different segment evaluation criteria are investigated under different environmental conditions formalised in a complex artificial consumer market. The results indicate that complex decision models for segment choice do not turn out to be superior in general. Both mass marketers and firms concentrating on particular segments based on an a priori logic can be just as successful under "favourable" market conditions, the most influential condition being the available advertising budget. (author's abstract)Series: Working Papers SFB "Adaptive Information Systems and Modelling in Economics and Management Science

Alternatives to Pretrial Detention:Pre Global Best Practice Catalog

This Global Best Practice Catalog of Alternatives to Pretrial Detention was completed by students of the Master of Arts Degree Program in International Crime and Justice at John Jay College of Criminal Justice as part of their capstone course, in collaboration with the US State Department\u27s Diplomacy Lab program. This catalog is intended to cover best practices in reducing pretrial detention (either before it occurs or while it is occurring) across the globe, including laws, policies and programs. It does not include Oceania or very detailed information on North America. Each entry meets 5 of 8 criteria below, as decided by the students: 1. It respects human rights 2. It is affordable for the country\u27s budget 3. It is available to the majority of accused 4. It is definable: we know how the best practice works in context 5. It ensures public safety: no further crime or victimization occurs upon release from detention 6. It is verifiable: more than one source attests to it (it is not a recommendation - it really exists) 7. It is sustainable - it really works and it can self-subsist 8. It should not result in profits for private entities, beyond reasonable salaries Each entry includes: Title of the Practice Listing of the class best practice criteria that it meets (5 out of 8) Paragraph description of the practice, to include -how long it’s been in practice -what the main components of the best practice are -scope: local or national -who it affects -costs if available (how it’s funded) -who’s in charge of it (e.g. NGO/organizational structure) -any independent evaluations? -results -whether it has been exported elsewhere (used in another country) Links Bibliography Associated files are a series of case studies where student teams apply global best practice to selected countries. (El Salvador, Uruguay, Bangladesh, Ghana, Liberia and Macedonia.